Repainting the Frame

From: David Swingle  

Subject: DML: Frame Epoxy Removal Winter project pt 2: 

I have been working on cleaning up my frame from the center crossmember forward. After hours of scraping and wire brushing, I finally hit on the way to easily remove the epoxy - CAREFUL use of a propane torch, on a low setting, and then it scrapes right off! (Yes - I removed the Gas Tank first! - along with most everything else at the front of the car including wiring harness, cooling system, facia, suspension etc.) You don't have to heat the epoxy much at all, in fact after the removal the metal underneath is barely warm to the touch. It would be safer to use an electric heat gun, but I didn't have one around and I was getting so frustrated with the scraping I had to try something. 

I've finished sandblasting and repainting the suspension parts and other assorted brackets. Next it's on to the metal treatment and Rustguard coating of the front frame. 

Another answer to one of my old questions - Is there a commercial paint that comes close to matching the epoxy color of the frame? Well, as usual on the DeLorean, its not a simple answer.

I bought some of the original DMC repair epoxy (expensive!) that is still available from the vendors. It is still quite useable, but doesn't really color match the original epoxy of the frame very well. It is also very glossy. It is also impossible to apply it and obtain the smooth finish of the original since it is too thick to spray and doesn't brush on very smoothly. The color mismatch could be due to weathering of the epoxy. The factory finish is a liquified powder coat process where the repair epoxy is a two-part mix. Since it is the frame, after all, they may not have tried very hard for an exact match. Assuming that this is as good as it gets, with some experimentation I determined that Rustoleum "Dark Machine Grey" matches the factory repair epoxy very well. It ends up a little darker and shinier than a weathered frame.

For my frame rust repair, I cleaned it up a good as I could, treated and coated the bare metal with Wurth Rustguard (black only), and the covered the Wurth with the Rustoleum wherever it was visible.