Here's some pics of the automatic transmission governor computer showing
failed capacitors, replaced capacitors, and two additional .1 microfarad
bypass capacitors across pins 1 and 4 of each of the two comparator
integrated circuits.
Fig 1
This shows one of the large power transistor replacements (a TIP 42C, common
as dirt) on the upper left. The two large silver tubular capacitors, one to the
left of the three black wires and the other perpendicular just behind the
stryrofoam at the lower right, are replacement Tantalum units. These were
replaced about 9 years ago, OK so far. The blue box is my Mobile A/T Test
Fixture-- it hangs in the engine compartment of my daily driver DeLorean VIN
2790 :-)
Fig 2
This shows the same governor circuit boards before the caps were replaced.
(OK, these aren't the originals-- it's a stand in picture form a David
Teitelbaum unit :-). I mounted my original in the blue plastic box years ago for
plug-in convenience while testing various mods. Note the two bad capacitors..the
black rubber seals have been blown out of the ends. They're not supposed to do
that. One is a 6 volt cap, the other is a 10 volt cap. (I've seen one board with
15 volt caps, most have two 10's) The voltage they help filter often exceeds 15
volts. Use 4.7-10 microfarad caps with as
high a voltage rating as you can fit...at least 20 volts, 50 is better. These
blow "open", that is, they do not short out anything, they just become
ineffective. The trans shift points change slightly, but the circuit becomes
very erratic-- sometimes shifts OK, sometimes skips 1st, holds 1st, starts in
2nd, downshifts for no reason, etc. No rhyme or reason-- temp, humidity, luck,
and what you had for breakfast all had equal effects.
Fig 3
A closeup of the replaced caps-- the tubular silver things.
Fig 4
Both governor boards from the back side. I've added two .1 microfarad caps
across pins 1 and 4 (power and ground) on the rightmost board to eliminate the
effects of spikes and transients from causing erratic shifting. Seems to have
helped, not a single unexpected shift in 6 months of daily operation.
Fig
5
An extreme closeup showing which pads to solder the cap leads to if you try this
at home.
Summary
Between the 15 or so units I've seen and / or talked folks through repair, and
at least one unit each from Dave Santos and David Teitelbaum, (thanks for lots
of help, and yes, David, eventually I'll get the schematics I owe you in a
human-readable form ) all had bad caps and one had a bad multifunction switch as
well. Some have had really bad solder joints, especially around the jumper wires
that join the two boards. Note in Fig 1 that I replaced the jumpers with thin
blue wires.
\\ Mark Hershey
Test Box:
Here are a couple more pics to reply those who expressed interest in the 'test fixture'
The Test Box picture shows the connector for the main wiring harness (the 9 pin connector in the middle) and a 3-pin connector that goes to the governor's AC vehicle speed generator. The test points are for the transmission solenoids and one for the AC voltage from the speed generator.
These are the shift point lamps mounted in a plastic plate where the clock
should be. The plastic insert is half of a Radio Shack project box; fit nicely
in the clock hole with just a bit of filing on the end of the plastic. Looks
dirtier in the pic that I remember....and sorry about the lack of focus!
Bye!
\\ Mark Hershey
Vin 2790,now full-time automatic (so far)
Home | Back
Issues | Downloadable
Files | Links
| Subscribe
DeLorean FAQ
| Clubs and Events
| DeLorean Mailing List FAQ
Copyright © 2000 DMC-News
The legal fine print.
Comments, criticisms, questions:
webmaster(AT)dmcnews.com