From: eGroups Digest [dmcnews@egroups.com]
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 4:58 AM
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eGroups Daily Digest: dmcnews has 35 new messages.
Click here http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=242 to read them.
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242. LHEMB@aol.com [DML] Re: Dash Board Cover
243. Carororo@aol.com [DML] Re: Chrome Wheels
244. Marc A Levy [DML] Re: Door Struts
245. Marc A Levy [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
246. DMC Joe [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
247. WtrResQ@aol.com [DML] (DML Stalling...
248. William T Wilson [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
249. Marc Barth [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
250. Marc Barth [DML] Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
251. Marc Barth [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
252. LovDMC12@aol.com [DML] Re: The Bricklin
253. DMC Joe [DML] Re: Mike Substenly
254. DMC Joe [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
255. ABatt10347@aol.com [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
256. DMC Joe [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
257. DMC Joe [DML] Re: Door Struts
258. DMC Joe [DML] Re: engine removeing
259. Danny Smith [DML] Re: Chrome Wheels
260. Ben Krasnow [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
261. DMC Joe [DML] Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
262. magriese@us.ibm.com [DML] Re: Door Struts
263. Michel Poulin [DML] Re: The Bricklin
264. magriese@us.ibm.com [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
265. raynet@home.net [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
266. raynet@home.net [DML] Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
267. Michel Poulin [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
268. Bob Brandys [DML] Re: The Bricklin
269. Michel Poulin [DML] Re: engine removeing
270. David Sontos [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
271. DeLorean31@aol.com [DML] Re: engine removeing
272. robert parker [DML] Re: [Fwd: Belfast N.Ireland.]
273. KayoOng@aol.com [DML] Re: Chrome Wheels
274. Caliendo76@aol.com [DML] Re: The Bricklin
275. BRUCE BENSON [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
276. raynet@home.net [DML] Re: engine removeing
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------------------------------ message 242 ------------------------------
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From: LHEMB@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Dash Board Cover
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:14:04 EDT
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I ordered a very nice dashboard cover for my D about four years ago through
Pep Boys in Jax, Fla. As I recall it only cost $35.00. It is gray to match my
interior,
and still looks like new. It has really protected my dash; it still looks
like new.
Brian McCabe, Santa Rosa Beach, Fla.
auto D #5830
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From: Carororo@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Chrome Wheels
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:03:32 EDT
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Josh-
Try a plating company. My husband and I used to have a small paint shop, and
some of our items (like the brush covers for floor cleaning machines) were
chrome plated . We gave a clear finish to the underside.
You can probably find someone that you know who has a connection.
Carol
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------------------------------ message 244 ------------------------------
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From: Marc A Levy <malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: Door Struts
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:28:18 -0400
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All of the DeLorean service centers sell the door struts.
If you strut is old, replace them first. If that does not fix it, then
you need to have it adjusted.
Adjusting the doors should be done by someone who knows what they are
doing, and has the right tools. Many have smashed their back window
trying to adjust the doors improperly.
cooney@pathway.net wrote:
>
> I have a sagging passenger door which seems to be more affected by cold
> weather. Two questions: How do I know this is the strut and not the
> adjustment, second, where is the best place to purchase door struts,
> preferably heavy duty cold weather types. I read of a supplier of
> similar struts but cannot find it in the archives. Thanks.
>
> Mike
> #2467
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From: Marc A Levy <malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:25:10 -0400
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There is a lot of information in the archives on Turbos.
The "official" turbo delorean was built by Legend Industries. The car
never made it to production, but there are a few prototype cars still
around. They are usually expensive.
There are a number of turbo kits for add on to the PRV6. I have the
Island twin turbo kit, which is a twin turbo setup.
Most of the turbo kit's are limited to 6lbs to avoid ring damage to the
engine. The spec's of the Island drop the 0-60 time from 10 seconds to
7 seconds.
Most of the delorean service centers have their favorite turbo kit to
install. Most of the kits I have seen are single turbo. I have never
rode in one, but I am told that the performance of twin VS single is
about the same. The single turbo is obviously cheaper.
I recently spoke to Don at Delorean Motor Center, and it sounds like he
is currently working on modern improvements to his turbo setup.
I have heard of no major brake improvements to the DMC. One of the list
members sells braided brake lines, and others have tried drilled
rotors. I am not an advocate of drilled rotors, but I do have the set
of the brake lines. It was a minor improvement I would recommend to
anyone who has 18 year old rubber lines.
> Daniel Delmastro Luriaud wrote:
>
> Hi All!
>
> I'm interested to buy my D. soon (5 speed) and I need to know few
> technical aspects of the car, and these are: Exist any "oficial" or
> "legal" version of the Turbo DMC 12?, May be some "Twin Turbo"
> version?, If the answer is NO, could somebody tell me if is possible
> to make this adaptation to the original PRV engine, and may be give me
> an idea of how much this operation could cost?, and, what turbo brand
> could be better?. May be I will need better brake system, it is
> possible to fit an ABS to the D.?. Thanks a lot in advance and receive
> a warm greeting!
>
> Daniel
> dandelluri@ctv.es
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------------------------------ message 246 ------------------------------
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:47:36 -0400
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Hesitation when turning or stopping is an indication of a problem with the
fuel baffle.
You said you replaced the pick-up hose and it lies flat on the bottom of
the tank, it should be attached to the fuel baffle. Some cars that have
been serviced by non DeLorean service centers have had the baffle removed.
Make sure that, first, you have a fuel baffle and secondly be sure that it
is installed correctly.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: mbslaw@webtv.net
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Stalling, etc,-
> Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 11:10 PM
>
> I have just gotten almost all of the bugs out of #2904 that I bought last
fall except when the gas tank is down to 4-5 gals the car begins to stall
out when I corner sharply
> or stop suddely. We replaced the fuel pump and soft with age intake fuel
hose making sure the new one lies flat on the bottom of the tank .Gas
filter looks ok but with small hole/opening.
> Secondly, brake pedal goes to floor on some "panic" stops
> only ,fine rest of the time.
> Help,suggestions?
> Michael (D Lore N)(fla plate)
>
>
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------------------------------ message 247 ------------------------------
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From: WtrResQ@aol.com
Subject: [DML] (DML Stalling...
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 03:48:24 EDT
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Michael writes:
I have just gotten almost all of the bugs out of #2904 that I bought last
fall except when the gas tank is down to 4-5 gals the car begins to stall
out when I corner sharply
or stop suddely. We replaced the fuel pump and soft with age intake fuel
hose making sure the new one lies flat on the bottom of the tank .Gas filter
looks ok but with small hole/opening.
Secondly, brake pedal goes to floor on some "panic" stops
only ,fine rest of the time.
Help,suggestions?
Michael (D Lore N)(fla plate)
**********************************************
Michael, i think that the problem you have is the same thing i had with my
car. the "filter that i think you are referring to is actually called a
baffel. the important thing here is that the hole in the middle is to secure
it to the bottom of the fuel tank. mine actually ran out of gas on me with a
little over half a tank of fuel. what you need to do is, with half a tank of
fuel, feel down into the tank through the fuel pump hole, and feel for a bolt
at the bottom of the tank. there should be a 10mm nut in there too, although
there wasnt one in my tank, that secures the baffle to the nut. what was
happening was the baffle began to float in the fuel after the fuel was being
used.
good luck,
james (stainls)
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------------------------------ message 248 ------------------------------
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
Subject: [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 01:40:19 -0400 (EDT)
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On Wed, 28 Apr 1999, Daniel Delmastro Luriaud wrote:
> I'm interested to buy my D. soon (5 speed) and I need to know few
> technical aspects of the car, and these are: Exist any "oficial" or
> "legal" version of the Turbo DMC 12?, May be some "Twin Turbo"
There were factory prototypes of a twin turbo setup for the DeLorean which
was, like almost everything else about the car, way ahead of its time.
It included computer-controlled boost (common on modern cars, not so much
in the early 1980s) and probably produced well in excess of 200 HP.
Unfortunately, this model of DeLorean was scheduled for 1984 year
production and was never built, except as prototypes. Steve Wynne at DMC
Houston has one. This is called the "Legend" turbo.
You can get an aftermarket turbo upgrade setup called the "Island" turbo.
It is made by Eleanor Rogers at Turbo Manifold in... Ohio? The 2nd
dmcnews.com 'zine' has lots of information on this. It is modeled after
the Legend turbo kit, but is less advanced. Unlike the prototypes, it has
no boost controller (AFAIK) and no intercoolers. There was some musings
on the list about intercooling the Island kit (or adapting them to a
totally different turbo engine) a couple months ago, and one of the list
members made some preliminary (and quite good) drawings, but nothing ever
came of it.
The Island kit comes (or used to) in two versions, one with catalytic
converters and one without. The one without may no longer be available, I
don't know for sure. The one with converters passes emissions and the one
without doesn't, usually. These versions run fairly low boost pressure of
about 6-7 lbs and have a correspondingly low increase in HP. It used to
be said that the Island kit made just about exactly 200 HP, but the
current conventional wisdom is that it's probably somewhat less than that
- maybe 170 or 180 HP. It is still an improvement over the stock 130+HP
and moves the powerband up in the RPM range, which also helps. I believe
the Island kit costs about $3000-$4000. It's supposedly a pretty
straightforward bolt-on conversion, but I've never installed one myself.
> could be better?. May be I will need better brake system, it is
> possible to fit an ABS to the D.?. Thanks a lot in advance and receive
The DeLorean brakes are adequate for normal street driving, and there
aren't many people who race DeLoreans, so brake upgrades are few and far
between. I haven't found any, and as usual, the first guy that does
something like this gets to do all the work for everybody else. ;)
Note that this does not mean they don't exist, but simply that I haven't
found them on the web or on the smattering of brake-related shops I've
talked to.
The brakes of choice, at least for me, are Porsche, and I think your
eventual choice in brake upgrades would depend on what else you're
upgrading. If you change out the wheels too (which can be done) then you
may find enough space in there for big 14" vented rotors; rotors are more
or less all the same (in that they are round and bolt on in the middle)
and a good machine shop can attach just about any rotor to just about any
braking assembly, as long as it will physically fit in the wheel. If you
want to keep the stock wheels, the size of the front wheels is the
limiting factor, since front brakes are more important.
You'll need new calipers too; get calipers from the same sort of car you
got the rotors off of, so it all fits nicely, and have your speed shop of
choice attach it. Take lots of measurements so everything fits, and be
prepared to spend a lot. Your new calipers will probably demand new
cylinders too, but, to be honest, that's the easy part. :} Just be sure
you don't kill yourself getting everything straightened out since your
cylinders must all be properly sized. Choice of good calipers from a
high-performance car will also supply you with a wide variety of
performance brake pads.
I could recommend ultimategarage.com as a place to start if you're serious
about serious brakes. Their stuff is pricey, but they would probably be
willing to do most of this custom work.
As for ABS, I would stay away from it. Although ABS is a fairly valuable
safety feature, it is extremely difficult to add to a car as an
aftermarket upgrade. Note that ABS doesn't really reduce your stopping
distance, but instead simply reduces the risk of losing control of the
car in a skid.
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------------------------------ message 249 ------------------------------
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From: "Marc Barth" <d16y8@hotmail.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:06:52 PDT
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I'm not sure what you mean by "legal" or "official" version but you
can turbocharge just about any car. Depending on how much boost you
want to run will determine the cost and difficulty of installation.
You'll need to have a machine shop make custom exhaust manifolds to
bolt up a turbo(s). Unless there is an aftermarket kit that I am
unaware of. Garrett and Turbonetics are a good place to start
looking for turbos. You'll need a wastegate, blow off valve, and an
intercooler if you want to run more than 5psi(recommended). If you
have any more questions let me know.
>From: "Daniel Delmastro Luriaud" <dandelluri@ctv.es>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@egroups.com
>To: "DeLorean Mail List" <dmcnews@egroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] RV: Need Tech Info.
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 02:37:48 +0100
>
>Hi All!
>
>I'm interested to buy my D. soon (5 speed) and I need to know few
technical aspects of the car, and these are: Exist any "oficial"
or "legal" version of the Turbo DMC 12?, May be some "Twin Turbo"
version?, If the answer is NO, could somebody tell me if is possible
to make this adaptation to the original PRV engine, and may be give
me an idea of how much this operation could cost?, and, what turbo
brand could be better?. May be I will need better brake system, it is
possible to fit an ABS to the D.?. Thanks a lot in advance and
receive a warm greeting!
>
>Daniel
>dandelluri@ctv.es
>
>
>
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------------------------------ message 250 ------------------------------
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From: "Marc Barth" <d16y8@hotmail.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:07:56 PDT
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Yes it is definitely your master cylinder. This exact problem
happened to me on a Volvo I used to own.
>From: "Duke" <at88mph@mobis.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@egroups.com
>To: <dmcnews@egroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:21:35 -0500
>
>The other day I was driving along and when I hit the brakes, the
pedal went
>all the way to the floor. I hit it again and it was fine. (since
that
>first time, it has only happened one other time but I'm not going to
take
>any chances) Does anyone know where I can get a brake master
cylinder
>rebuild kit from? I've got the Girling part number for it (SP7243)
but no
>one has it! If not, does anyone know what other car used the same
brake
>master cylinder? I've also got the number for the master cylinder
(74660518
>& 74066116) but I can't find these anywhere either. Any help would
be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Duke
>
>
>
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------------------------------ message 251 ------------------------------
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From: "Marc Barth" <d16y8@hotmail.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:07:56 PDT
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If you brake pedal is going to the floor it is probably your master
cylinder. If you replace your fuel pump and hoses check to see if
your injectors need cleaning.
>From: mbslaw@webtv.net
>Reply-To: dmcnews@egroups.com
>To: dmcnews@egroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Stalling, etc,-
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 03:10:00 -0000
>
>I have just gotten almost all of the bugs out of #2904 that I bought
last fall except when the gas tank is down to 4-5 gals the car
begins to stall out when I corner sharply
>or stop suddely. We replaced the fuel pump and soft with age intake
fuel hose making sure the new one lies flat on the bottom of the
tank .Gas filter looks ok but with small hole/opening.
>Secondly, brake pedal goes to floor on some "panic" stops
>only ,fine rest of the time.
>Help,suggestions?
> Michael (D Lore N)(fla plate)
>
>
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------------------------------ message 252 ------------------------------
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From: LovDMC12@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: The Bricklin
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:29:41 EDT
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Pedar,
The Bricklin came with two different engines. Some have a Ford 351 CID
Windsor and some have an AMC 360 CID. I've never actually seen one, but I
know some folks who have. From what I've gathered, Bricklins suffered from a
quality problem. I believe this probably sealed their fate. That and the
fact that Malcolm Bricklin was a rich man who had no experience in the car
business like DeLorean had. I think Bricklin's company simply ran out of
money.
The Organization of Bricklin Owners is having a gathering September 16-18 at
the Charlotte, NC Speedway to celebrate the Bricklin's 25th anniversary. I'm
going to try and go one day just so that I can see a Bricklin SV1 for myself
and compare it to my DeLorean. This event is advertised in "Hemmings Motor
News." The man to contact is Joseph F. DeLorenzo at 716-247-1575. He can
probably tell you some sites and give you some info on events relating to the
Bricklin like the one I mentioned.
I hope this helps.
Brian
VIN 1597
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------------------------------ message 253 ------------------------------
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Mike Substenly
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:13:49 -0400
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Sean,
Mike's e mail is msubstel@lorainccc.edu
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Sean Jones <shain@noln.com>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Mike Substenly
> Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 8:32 PM
>
> Hello,
>
> Can i get mike substenly's e-mail address?
>
> - Shain
>
>
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:26:22 -0400
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Daniel,
Turbo Manifold Co. out of Natick MA manufactures an excellent twin turbo
for the DeLorean. Contact them at 800 449-1248 for information. There is no
ABS brake system available.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
From: Daniel Delmastro Luriaud <dandelluri@ctv.es>
To: DeLorean Mail List <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Subject: [DML] RV: Need Tech Info.
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 9:37 PM
Hi All!
I'm interested to buy my D. soon (5 speed) and I need to know few technical
aspects of the car, and these are: Exist any "oficial" or "legal" version
of the Turbo DMC 12?, May be some "Twin Turbo" version?, If the answer is
NO, could somebody tell me if is possible to make this adaptation to the
original PRV engine, and may be give me an idea of how much this operation
could cost?, and, what turbo brand could be better?. May be I will need
better brake system, it is possible to fit an ABS to the D.?. Thanks a lot
in advance and receive a warm greeting!
Daniel
dandelluri@ctv.es
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------------------------------ message 255 ------------------------------
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From: ABatt10347@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:01:30 EDT
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To remove the tank. Take off the fuel tank closing plate (part # 101716). I
think there are about 20 or 21 bolts to remove. Tank slides out from the
bottom. Be sure and take care with the foam attached ( parts 106686,
106689,106711,106687, and 106688.) to the tank. These need to be put back in
with the cleaned out tank.
Bruce Battles
Vin 6569
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------------------------------ message 256 ------------------------------
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:08:47 -0400
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Luke,
DON'T REMOVE THE TANK. It is not necessary to remove the tank for cleaning.
the entire interior of the tank can be accessed through the fuel pump
opening. It does help to have slender arms to reach the far corners of the
tank. If you must remove the tank there are 6 foam rubber mounts
surrounding the tank, these mounts adhere to the adjoining frame pieces
with age. You will have to scrape these pieces away in order to remove the
tank. Removing the tank is no advantage to cleaning it is very labor
intensive and is not necessary.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Luke.Sandel@cmich.edu
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Fuel Tank
> Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 9:26 PM
>
> In my quest to clean up the fuel system, a tank scrubbing is in order.
But... I
> can't get the thing out. Everything has been removed (pump, sender,
plumbing,
> and access cover) but the tank won't budge an inch. Aside from climbing
in the
> trunk and jumping up and down on it, are there any tricks to getting this
thing
> out? So far I've tried pushing, pulling, shoving, hitting, wrenching and
> swearing and so far swearing has been the only thing that makes any
difference
> (makes me feel better at least :).
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Luke
>
>
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------------------------------ message 257 ------------------------------
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Door Struts
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:21:58 -0400
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Mike,
Purchase replacement struts from PJ Grady or DMC Houston. Install the new
strut on the sagging door, if the door goes all the way up than you have
corrected the problem, if it continues to sag you will need a torsion bar
adjustment.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: cooney@pathway.net
> To: dmcnews@eGroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Door Struts
> Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 10:02 PM
>
> I have a sagging passenger door which seems to be more affected by cold
> weather. Two questions: How do I know this is the strut and not the
> adjustment, second, where is the best place to purchase door struts,
> preferably heavy duty cold weather types. I read of a supplier of
> similar struts but cannot find it in the archives. Thanks.
>
> Mike
> #2467
>
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------------------------------ message 258 ------------------------------
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: engine removeing
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:47:42 -0400
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Michel,
Form-a-gasket was never used at the factory, all the engines left the
engine manufacturing plant in Douvrain France completely assembled with
factory gaskets in place. When they arrived at the DMC plant they were
installed as is, all that was necessary was to attach electric's and
plumbing.
To completely remove the engine follow the procedures at C:04:01 in the
Workshop Manual.
The PRV is an extremely well sealed engine, most oil leaks occur at the oil
sender, change this item and its seal and you may find that your oil leak
will go away.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Michel Poulin <mpoulin@poulincomm.com>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] engine removeing
> Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 1:03 PM
>
> The D I've been working on (I really do need to get the vin for you
> guys) leaks a bit of oil. To look at the gaskits around the timeing chain
> cover and the oil-pan, it looks like the red form-a-gaskit some people
use
> on their valve covers. We've heard that this was done at the factory with
> the expectation that these cars would come in for service and have the
> real gaskits installed, but not all of the cars returned in time. (very
> early '81) We have the kit to replace the gaskits and have been thinking
> that we could either try to lift the engine up a few inches at the back
w/
> the mount bolts removed, OR (prefered) remove the engine. In looking at
> the car, it looks like it would make for a simple job to remove the
engine
> by removeing the back of the car. Are we at least on the right track? All
> of the other engines I've removed have been out of larger cars with much
> more clearance around the engine to get it out of the hood area.
> Any info would be helpful. The engine has just over 9k miles on it and
> we'd like to get the seal tight on the oil pan as the botom of the engine
> already looks like crap from the oil.
> -=mike=-
>
> *-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
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------------------------------ message 259 ------------------------------
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From: DJS912@webtv.net (Danny Smith)
Subject: [DML] Re: Chrome Wheels
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:27:06 -0400 (EDT)
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Josh,
The wheels your seeing are most likley stripped and polished. Some have
black put between the "spokes" and are clear coated. I'm also looking
for someone in my area to do mine. I think metal refinishing shops
sometimes offer this service.
Dan
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------------------------------ message 260 ------------------------------
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From: Ben Krasnow <kraz@wco.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:14:13 -0700
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The fuel tank is snugged in between the frame bars with foam strips.
The foam usually hardens up, making the plastic tank *very* snug. Try
spraying some WD-40 or other silicone lubricant on the foam strips.
Then, slide a long and very thin piece of metal or a long skinny
screwdriver between the foam and the tank or body. Working from the
bottom of the car, try to get your hands around the small end of the
tank, and pull down hard. The tank is strong, and you probably cannot
do any damage by just pulling on it with your hands. I removed my tank
a while ago and had it sent to be boiled in a professional tank cleaning
service. Once your tank is out, make sure it is very clean, and change
all or most of the other rubber parts in it to keep dirt and decomposed
rubber from accumulating again. Good luck
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------------------------------ message 261 ------------------------------
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From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:19:52 -0400
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Duke,
There is another alternative to this situation, you could send your unit
out for a rebuild; check out Apple Hydraulics (1-800-882-7753). They can
re-sleeve it for about $70.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Duke <at88mph@mobis.com>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
> Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 11:21 AM
>
> The other day I was driving along and when I hit the brakes, the pedal
went
> all the way to the floor. I hit it again and it was fine. (since that
> first time, it has only happened one other time but I'm not going to take
> any chances) Does anyone know where I can get a brake master cylinder
> rebuild kit from? I've got the Girling part number for it (SP7243) but
no
> one has it! If not, does anyone know what other car used the same brake
> master cylinder? I've also got the number for the master cylinder
(74660518
> & 74066116) but I can't find these anywhere either. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Duke
>
>
>
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------------------------------ message 262 ------------------------------
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From: magriese@us.ibm.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Door Struts
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:48:57 -0500
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Mike - sagging in cold weather is you clue for weak struts.
Any of the DeLorean parts providers have struts available
at reasonable prices.
Mike Griese
Storage Software Development Manager
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
cooney@pathway.net on 04/27/99 09:02:51 PM
Please respond to dmcnews@egroups.com
To: dmcnews@egroups.com
cc: (bcc: Mike Griese/Rochester/IBM)
Subject: [DML] Door Struts
I have a sagging passenger door which seems to be more affected by cold
weather. Two questions: How do I know this is the strut and not the
adjustment, second, where is the best place to purchase door struts,
preferably heavy duty cold weather types. I read of a supplier of
similar struts but cannot find it in the archives. Thanks.
Mike
#2467
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------------------------------ message 263 ------------------------------
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From: Michel Poulin <mpoulin@poulincomm.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: The Bricklin
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:02:28 -0400 (EDT)
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Greetings,
Two sites to stop by for info on the Bricklin. One is my own
http://www.poulincomm.com/coolcars
the other is Bricklin International at
http://webus80.wang.com/BI/
Nice cars, but not as well designed and built as the DeLoreans. There
are three engines found in them, all V8's. Only built in '74-76 with a
final car count of around 3000. (like the DeLorean several cars were built
by the receivers after the plant closed.) Built in two plants in New
Brunswick Canada, Malcolm Bricklin was at a loss do to a poor economy,
rocketing gas prices, and a shortage of parts. While he didn't go down in
the blaze that JZD did, his car company went down in a similar way. The
New Brunswick government quit paying out money to the plant because
production numbers were slipping. Durring two months of 75 no cars were
produced, and for the '76 model year, only 2 cars were made. There are
about 1600 Bricks left on the road today.
The Bricklin was built on mostly detriot parts, and like the DeLorean,
except for the body panels, everything can be found for a price fairly
easily.
In a road and track issue ('75) the '74 and '75 Bricklin was pitted
against the '75 vette and won in all areas except for some finising
details that Malcolm would have been able to work out had the car survived
the mid '70's crunch.
Details about the car that you'll want to know before getting one:
The almost ALL LEAK from the door seals.
While the body won't rust, these 25 year old frames are starting to
fall apart much like a DeLorean frame w/ rips in the epoxy.
The hydrolic doors should be retroed w/ an air ram system as the
hydrolic system had a tendancy to be slow and leak.
The Majority of these cars came as automatics.. take that as you may.
These cars SHOULD NOT BE PAINTED w/o PROPER prep. there are 5 colors
that they came in, red, orange, green, suntan, and white. If you find one
in any other color, beware! if it wasn't painted properly the paint will
eat through the acrilic body.
Hmm, I had ment to keep this message short, if you want to read more or
know more, I can point you in the right direction.
-=mike=-
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On Wed, 28 Apr 1999, Hey People wrote:
> use the keys to open them...How did THEY get out of buisness? There's a
> site that said, "It had a similar fate to the DeLorean." That's all it
> said. What type of engine, how fast could it go, and all that stuff i
> want to know. If anyone has an intteresting site i could go to, it
> would be greatly appriciated. I've been wanteing to know that for quite
> some time now. Thank you guys for all your help.
>
> -Pedar Benson Bate
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------------------------------ message 264 ------------------------------
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From: magriese@us.ibm.com
Subject: [DML] Re: RV: Need Tech Info.
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:47:38 -0500
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Daniel - There is a single factory-built twin turbo DeLorean. This was
a prototype. No factory built turbocharged DeLoreans were available
to the general public. Turbo kits are available as bolt-on accessories.
There are at least two available. Expect to pay $5000 to $7000 to have
a kit installed. I can't make a call on which kit is better as I have no
first hand experience with any of them.
ABS was also not available and I know of no properly
engineered ABS system that can be retrofitted to the car. Larger
disks and calipers can be added along with larger wheels and
lower profile tires.
Mike. Griese
Storage Software Development Manager
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
"Daniel Delmastro Luriaud" <dandelluri@ctv.es> on 04/27/99 08:37:48 PM
Please respond to dmcnews@egroups.com
To: "DeLorean Mail List" <dmcnews@egroups.com>
cc: (bcc: Mike Griese/Rochester/IBM)
Subject: [DML] RV: Need Tech Info.
Hi All!
I'm interested to buy my D. soon (5 speed) and I need to know few technical
aspects of the car, and these are: Exist any "oficial" or "legal" version
of the Turbo DMC 12?, May be some "Twin Turbo" version?, If the answer is
NO, could somebody tell me if is possible to make this adaptation to the
original PRV engine, and may be give me an idea of how much this operation
could cost?, and, what turbo brand could be better?. May be I will need
better brake system, it is possible to fit an ABS to the D.?. Thanks a lot
in advance and receive a warm greeting!
Daniel
dandelluri@ctv.es
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------------------------------ message 265 ------------------------------
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From: raynet@home.net
Subject: [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:52:54 -0000
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<SNIP> Secondly, brake pedal goes to floor on some "panic" stops
only ,fine rest of the time.<SNIP>
Not sure on the first part, but as per the brakes, I have heard that if you have air in the brake system, that that could cause the problem. You might want to try bleeding the system and refilling with new brake fluid. At the same time do the usuall inspections of brake lines for leaks, and pads etc.
Raymond McKay
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------------------------------ message 266 ------------------------------
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From: raynet@home.net
Subject: [DML] Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:58:52 -0000
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<SNIP> Does anyone know where I can get a brake master cylinder <SNIP>
I don't know about a rebuild kit but I know where you can get a new one...
I just had to replace my master cylinder also.
You can get new ones from PJ Grady
www.pjgrady.com
I believe the cost was something like $165
Raymond McKay
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------------------------------ message 267 ------------------------------
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From: Michel Poulin <mpoulin@poulincomm.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:07:11 -0400 (EDT)
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We left the tank in place, removed the screen, lines, etc, and used a
small person with golves to reach inside with small towels and wiped all
of the crap to the center where we could shop vac it out. I'm sure that
there are a thousand reasons not to do it this way, but it has seemed to
work.
Just a note, remember, it's a gas tank, don't smoke while cleaning it.
;)
-=mike=-
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
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On Thu, 29 Apr 1999 Luke.Sandel@cmich.edu wrote:
> In my quest to clean up the fuel system, a tank scrubbing is in order. But... I
> can't get the thing out. Everything has been removed (pump, sender, plumbing,
> and access cover) but the tank won't budge an inch. Aside from climbing in the
> trunk and jumping up and down on it, are there any tricks to getting this thing
> out? So far I've tried pushing, pulling, shoving, hitting, wrenching and
> swearing and so far swearing has been the only thing that makes any difference
> (makes me feel better at least :).
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Luke
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------ message 268 ------------------------------
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From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: The Bricklin
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:09:45 +0500
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Bricklens and DeLoreans have a lot in common. They were both ventures
of single entropenures have gull wing doors, were only in production 18
months and were both produced in the middle of recessions. (Where the
resessons created to make sure these car makers did not succeed?)
The bricklen was conceived as a safety vehicle. (50 mph head on
surviability without air bags, had hydralic doors (later up graded to
compressed air) and excellant side impact protection. The 390 V-8
powered car with the 3.42 could turn the quarter mile in the mid 14s. A
true performance car. Fuel economy was only 13 mpg.
We have been trying to encourage joint events with Bricklin owners.
They have been provided with our meeting schedule for the national
magazine. I encourage other clubs to also seek out these people. If you
need info please contact me directly.
Deloreans owners should be aware that over 50% of all Bricklins have
been modified from stock. This has improved the cars and the modified
ones are actually worth more than the stock cars (provided the are
improved in good taste. )
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------------------------------ message 269 ------------------------------
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From: Michel Poulin <mpoulin@poulincomm.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: engine removeing
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:13:41 -0400 (EDT)
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Thanks for the info. We'll have to get the Workshop Manual. All we have
now is the parts manual.
As far as the gaskets go, somone told us that the form-a-gasket had been
used, from your info I take it that that's a li. people will do that for
some dumb reason or another. For what it's worth though, this engine has
been pulled apart then. the red gasket glue is ozzeing out of several bolt
holes. The Oil leak is from the pan and front cover. We've found several
bolts that were loose, and a couple missing on both the cover and pan.
When ever we tighten them the oil will quit dripping for a few days, then
it starts again. The sending unit it tight. (and wouldn't cause oil drops
on the other side of the engine.)
Thanks!
-=mike=-
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| http://www.poulincomm.com |
| http://www.WWJP.com |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
On Wed, 28 Apr 1999, DMC Joe wrote:
> Michel,
> Form-a-gasket was never used at the factory, all the engines left the
> engine manufacturing plant in Douvrain France completely assembled with
> factory gaskets in place. When they arrived at the DMC plant they were
> installed as is, all that was necessary was to attach electric's and
> plumbing.
>
> To completely remove the engine follow the procedures at C:04:01 in the
> Workshop Manual.
>
> The PRV is an extremely well sealed engine, most oil leaks occur at the oil
> sender, change this item and its seal and you may find that your oil leak
> will go away.
>
> DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
>
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------------------------------ message 270 ------------------------------
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From: David Sontos <dsontos@sybercom.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel Tank
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:32:06 -0400
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Hi Luke,
I had the same problem with mine when I first got my car. I made the mistake of
draining all the fuel out first. Wished I had left it in later though. The way I got
mine out was just by pushing and prying. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO POKE A HOLE IN THE
TANK, IT IS PLASTIC. You do need to remove the two cooling pipes that run along each
side of the tank. It makes life a lot easier. The book says to just move them out of
the way but they always pop back. Work at the small back end of the tank. The front
part sits on a shelf and must be moved rearward to drop down. Make sure you have
your shop jack under the the tank when it starts to drop. The tank empty only weighs
about 20-30 pounds. You might try fishing a wire over the top to give you something
to pull down on.
Dave
Luke.Sandel@cmich.edu wrote:
> In my quest to clean up the fuel system, a tank scrubbing is in order. But... I
> can't get the thing out. Everything has been removed (pump, sender, plumbing,
> and access cover) but the tank won't budge an inch. Aside from climbing in the
> trunk and jumping up and down on it, are there any tricks to getting this thing
> out? So far I've tried pushing, pulling, shoving, hitting, wrenching and
> swearing and so far swearing has been the only thing that makes any difference
> (makes me feel better at least :).
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Luke
>
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------------------------------ message 271 ------------------------------
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From: DeLorean31@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: engine removeing
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 17:26:58 EDT
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In a message dated 4/29/99 3:56:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mpoulin@poulincomm.com writes:
<< The sending unit it tight. (and wouldn't cause oil drops
on the other side of the engine.)
Thanks!
-=mike=- >>
Well there is an oil sender for the guage on one side and a sender for the
oil light on the other so it could be a sender leaking. The one on the
driver's side for the light is prone to leaking
Gary
VIN 3360
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------------------------------ message 272 ------------------------------
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From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@hotmail.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: [Fwd: Belfast N.Ireland.]
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:29:47 PDT
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I have done a non-stop Tulsa-Las Vegas & non-stop Tulsa-Snowmass trip
in my DMC, (Conventions). Bucket seats are rated the most comfy of
any style, & my bu-tochs definitely agrees. Two-cents worth from a
road-warrior. Drive Stainless Robert
>From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@egroups.com
>To: <dmcnews@egroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Re: [Fwd: Belfast N.Ireland.]
>Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:11:33 -0500
>
>After reading several accounts of opinions regarding the comfort of
the
>DeLorean for long periods of time in the driver seat I have to
comment. I've
>crisscrossed the U.S. many times in my DeLorean, most of the time
with
>friends who also were driving DeLoreans. Our common concensus was
that we
>felt less tired after putting long hours in the saddle in this car
than of
>any other vehicle we'd traveled in. We found the car seemed the
happiest at
>about 80 to 90 mph and 900 mile days were not all that out of the
ordinary
>for us. To classify the car as strictly a boulevard cruiser is to do
it a
>great injustice. There isn't another car I'd rather put those many
miles per
>day with than my DeLorean.
>
>Bruce Benson
>
>
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------------------------------ message 273 ------------------------------
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From: KayoOng@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Chrome Wheels
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 16:15:37 EDT
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Josh,
You can't chrome aluminum rims or aluminum materials.
Aluminum must be anodized.
What you do see are most likely machined and polished rims with a clear
protective coating to prevent discoloration and pitting.
If you do machine the original rims, make sure they are rebalanced afterwards
and all are the same closed approximate weight.
The other rims you see, is not or may not be original DMC. If you do replace
rims with non DMC rims, make sure they fit properly. The bolt on pattern is
a must. When the rims with the tires are mounted onto the car they must
clear the wheel well, while they are in motion. No scraping or chaffing
during driving -- bumps, turning, stopping and etc.
Also make sure the new rims can handle the different dynamic stresses while
the car is in motion. I understand that there are rims that do fit (not too
many manufactured or choices). The rims and tires are subjected to different
"stresses." These rims that are available may not be able to handle the
different stresses that the rims are subjected to during usage. You don't
want the rims to crack to break off. Remember, in this case, looks may not
equate to safety.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic. 9D NY
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------------------------------ message 274 ------------------------------
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From: Caliendo76@aol.com
Subject: [DML] Re: The Bricklin
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:17:36 EDT
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Some other interesting facts about the Bricklin SV-1 (Safety Vehicle). The
car was designed and manufactured without an ashtray, as smoking and driving
at the same time was considered dangerous. The suspension was derived from an
AMC Javelin. It is also rumored that the first 800 were said to cost over
$10,000 more to build than their sticker price.
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------------------------------ message 275 ------------------------------
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From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: Stalling, etc,-
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 17:15:20 -0500
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----- Original Message -----
From: <mbslaw@webtv.net>
To: <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 10:10 PM
Subject: [DML] Stalling, etc,-
> I have just gotten almost all of the bugs out of #2904 that I bought last
fall except when the gas tank is down to 4-5 gals the car begins to stall
out when I corner sharply
> or stop suddely
DMC modified the fuel baffles starting with vin #4782. Baffles prior to that
tended to dissolve over time when immersed in gasoline. I'm not sure if they
would completly dissolve but they did tend to melt into an unusable shape.
I'd guess that's one of the reasons they're hard to come by now.
Bruce Benson
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------------------------------ message 276 ------------------------------
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From: raynet@home.net
Subject: [DML] Re: engine removeing
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 21:10:27 -0000
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> When ever we tighten them the oil will quit dripping for a few days, then
> it starts again. The sending unit it tight. (and wouldn't cause oil drops
> on the other side of the engine.)
I have an oil leak very much like this. I found out after much searching (of course it wouldn't leak while I was looking at it) that the oil was leaking from the purge valve on the oil pan for draining the oil. Of course my luck the thing is stripped so I cant get it out to re-seal...
Maybe I'm totally off on your problem. But who knows, I never expected that this problem was caused by something so simple!!!
Raymond McKay
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