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Tuesday, August 26 1997 Volume 03 : Number 275
In this issue:
DML: delorean glue-on weatherstrip
Re: DML: Rear Sway Bars
DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
DML: Blower Fan
DML: electrical problems
DML: RUST !
DML: The D2 Has Me Depressed
DML: DMC-12s for sale
Re: DML: Info on D2 from Detroit Free Press - 8/15/97
Re: DML: RUST !
DML: Vent Controls
Re: DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
DML: RE: delorean glue-on weatherstrip
Re: DML: RUST !
DML: Console Hummm
DML: rear speaker replacement
Re: DML: The D2 Has Me Depressed
DML: Newly redesigned DOA website
Re: DML: rear speaker replacement
RE: DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
Re: DML: Info on D2 from Detroit Free Press - 8/15/97
Re: DML: Info on D2 from Detroit Free Press - 8/15/97
Re: DML: RUST !
DML: Testing the temperature gauge
Re: DML: Newly redesigned DOA website
re: DML: rear speaker replacement
Re: DML: RUST !
DML: Re: DOA redesigned website
DML: Note to DeLorean Owners Directory participants
DML: New toy for your De Loreans!
Re: DML: New toy for your De Loreans!
Re: DML: DOA redesigned website
DML: Reprinted from "Sports Car Market", August 1997
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 07:52:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: KKoncelik@aol.com
Subject: DML: delorean glue-on weatherstrip
If you need Glue on weatherstrip and have been holding off because it has
been extremely pricy at about $268.40 for the set. I believe PJ Grady is
now
selling it for $119.95 per set less than half the price. Check it out at
1-800-350-7429. A friend of mine just bought some and that is the price
he
said it was.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 10:01:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: JSteuben@aol.com
Subject: Re: DML: Rear Sway Bars
Thanks Matt, I pretty much agree with you. I restored my wife's 65
'stang'
and added sway bars to it. That made a huge difference in the handling.
But
I agree, I got the info from ADDCO. It would bother me to mount them on
the
hollow trailing arms. And yet....I sure would like to do something about
the
'body roll'. Regards, Joe .)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 10:45:24 -0400
From: Steve Shortz
Subject: DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
Marc,
I had one on my lowered car. It works well, but I would not opt to =
install one on another car. Can probably buy one for $150.00 plus =
shipping.
Steve shortz
- -----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy [SMTP:marc.levy@prudential.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 1997 11:19 AM
To: dmcnews@world.std.com
Subject: DML: Anti Sway Bar?
Steve Writes:
>ADDCO had sway bars for the rear of the DeLOREAN. The are located in
>Lake Park, FL. Area code 561. Roland is the president.
Anyone have any experience with this? How much is it? Does it really=20
make a difference? Will it work on lowered cars?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 10:30:47 -0400
From: jsinger@aaacars.com (Jack Singer)
Subject: DML: Blower Fan
My blower fan switch only works on position 4. After it is on for a
short period it also stops. I turn it off, then back on and it works
for a few minutes. A hot time in the heart of dixie with no air.
Any suggestions, a new switch? relay?
jsinger@dmc12.com
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 97 09:28:35 -0700
From: "Lee Seiler"@world.std.com,
Subject: DML: electrical problems
To All:
Like most DMC owners I have had my share of dead batteries. To deal
with this I have been systematically going threw the electrical system
cleaning connectors and replacing switches. To Day was interesting because
it was "Lockzilla, Battery Cut-off-switch, door-hazard-switch-day!
Once parts had arrived from DMC-ONE / PJ Gradey and my local
electronics parts store, and local auto parts store (batt cable ends) I
was ready.
The battery came out first, then I pulled one door switch to see how
it went togeather. I found nothing particular wrong with any of the three
door switches,they appeared to work using an ohm meter and visually worked
when activated by hand. but I replaced all three any way. I did find that
it
appeared that the upper terminal (Part# sp10740 DMCMP-3/6/2) and screw
(Part# sp10737 DMCMP-3/6/2)looked as if they were shorting with the lower
terminal even with the doors closed, and might be the cause of Dead batt
and
flickering door open warning light. To fix this possible problem I
increased
the terminal connect angle about 15 degrese and trimmed 1/8 inch from the
terminal screw, also used a bit of electrical insolation tape on the screw
end to prevent the flicker problem. Once you get the hang of holding the
switch in one hand and hold the spade clip and squar nut in place, while
maning a phillips screw driver with the other, instillation is stright
forward. The wires were a bit floppy and loose so I used a plastic zip tie
to secure them out of harms way.
That finished next cane the Batt-cut-off switch. I found Cole
Hersee
Co. makes a D.P.S.T. Master Disconnect Switch #75903 is the perfect
choice.
It is rated at 100AMPS+ and cuts both Batt and (Regulator or Gen/Alt fiels
circuts) at the same time. The other part you need is a 4 Ga copper "STC
Cable Terminal" part# BP307 available from most car parts stores.
The installation took about 30 minutes.
You just cut the "bat pos. cable assy part# 106262" found on 3/1/0
DMC parts manual, about half way between where it enters the batt box and
it's end. Remove 3/4 " of the insulation from the canles cut ends, crimp
the
STC BP307's to the cut ends of the Batt cable. Resemmble the circut with
the
Master Disconnect Switch #75903 between the cut ends of the Batt cable.
Mount the switch in the Batt compartment cover (Part# 106167). I cut a
3/4 "
hole in the rear deck carpet to provide a neat installation of the Master
Disconnect Switch handle. When completed the Battery and igniton circuts
can
be disconnected with a flick of the wrist.
This makes working on the electrical system a lot easy, (no dig
for
the battery with a wrench. It also solves the dead battery problem while
looking for a short or fused relay etc and so on......
total cost under $50.
Lockzilla was the a zip. I just followed the instructions, and
replaced the connector, reinstalled the unit which for some reason allows
only one screw hold down to align with the holes in the base plate. I need
to redrill the unaligned hole, which will take just a moment later this
week.
That's it! nice way to spend a Saturday afternoon...Tinkering!!
Lee
VIN# 5729
lee@ccnet.com
Tel: (510) 649-9118 Fax: (510) 848-7613
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 97 10:07:57 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody"
Subject: DML: RUST !
After being involved with the complete disassembly/ restoration of
3 Delorean Cars, One of which is my own, I once again came
across a problem which was common in all three cars. The overall
structure / body of the car was of good design for the most part.
BUT, there is one part that was made of plain old painted steel.
Its the main mounting / support beam for the door hinge mounts.
its located down the center of the roof. its basically a hollow beam
made of sheet metal, folded and welded together and is in 3 main
pieces. The design allows for water to get trapped inside and just
sit and rust. Many dealers would use different sealing agents to
seal up the roof when customers reported water leaking into the
interior. BUt, this just aided in the trapping of water in the roof
section.
I recomend that everyone check this out. Especially if your car
is actually used often and is occasionally exposed to the elements
Just washing the car will cause this. The car I was working on
last evening had been in a garage for about 2 weeks, When we
opened the roof section, there was water still standing inside
the roof section. The 6 main bolts that hold the beam on the
underside had completly rusted away from the unit, therefore,
not holding anything.
To check this out, Just open the sunshade and bed the retaining
clips of the roof section down. Remove the three screws from
each side of the roof section behind the outer door seals. Then
slowly lift the roof section up and off of the car. There will be some
double sided foam tape holding it down but steady pressure will
eventually get the roof off. NOW, in the center of the beam, there
is an access panel, approx 4 X 4 inches. Its just taped and glued
down. Remove this. With a flashlight, look down into the hole
and inspect for Rust.
MY HELPFUL HINT FOR THE DAY !! I hope you find it helpful.
wouldn't want your doors to fall off !!!
- -Brandon
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 22:20:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Charles Goldfischer
Subject: DML: The D2 Has Me Depressed
All this talk about the D2 has got me depressed. You see, I plan to buy a
DeLorean in the future, and I'd prefer it if the DeLorean remained as it
was
- -- one car made over a period of three (two) years.
If Johnny Z. actually starts producing the so-called D2, the original
won't
be as "unique" or as fun to drive IMO....especially if the D2 is
mass-produced on the scale of your average Ford Taurus...
I don't really know why I posted this, but it just has me down in the
dumps,
and part of me is hoping the D2 never comes to pass...
- -= Mike =-
P.S. If you reply to me, reply to msg48@columbia.edu.....not this a49erfan
e-mail address...Thanx :)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 21:02:41 -0700
From: bpayne@macnet.com (Brandon Payne)
Subject: DML: DMC-12s for sale
To whoever's interested,
There are two DeLoreans for sale in Portland, Oregon. I went to Northwest
Investment Cars a few weeks ago and saw these, one is red, and the other
original stainless. The red one is a 1981 and the stainless one has the
little DeLorean emblem on the corner of the hood. They are both manual
and
in nice condition. The red one is $13,995 and I couldn't get a price on
the
other one.
Northwest Incvestment Cars is located at 9275 SW Canyon RD. Portland
Oregon.
(503) 297-5000 The cars should still be there.
- -Brandon J. Payne
- ---------------Sock Monkeys have invaded your computer!---------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 18:13:29 -0400
From: Ben Ruset
Subject: Re: DML: Info on D2 from Detroit Free Press - 8/15/97
>(not necessarily to post, just a point of interest) The Lambourgini
>Diabolo has a 6-litre plus V12 engine, top speed of 202MPH, and 0-60 in
>4sec. It is the third fastest car in the world after the XJ220 and McLaren
>F1. It costs well over 100000pounds ($160000). One of the reasons why
>many people, including myself, are more than a little dubious of D's
>claims!!!
One wonders where the money is going to come from for this venture. I also
wonder WHY he'd use Long Island for a production site. Why not somewhere
where land is cheaper??
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1986 00:38:10 -0700
From: Lee Seiler
Subject: Re: DML: RUST !
At 10:07 AM 8/24/97 PDT, you wrote:
>Many dealers would use different sealing agents to
>seal up the roof when customers reported water leaking into the
>interior. BUt, this just aided in the trapping of water in the roof
>section.
>
>-Brandon
Brandon,
OK lets say I pull the roof panel and get the access port open,
what
do you recomend to prevent the water problem?
Lee
VIN# 5729
PS. Watch my return mail address it will change soon......
lee@ccnet.com
Tel: (510) 649-9118 Fax: (510) 848-7613
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 08:25:54 -0400
From: Mike Griese
Subject: DML: Vent Controls
Travis - You need to replace your mode switch. The hissing you hear
is a vacuum leak in the switch. The seemingly random circulation
problem is cause by leaks in the vacuum boss on the back half of
the switch. A new switch is about $60.
Michael A. Griese
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 07:45:25 -0600 (MDT)
From: raddad@cmn.net
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
Steve
If it worked well, why would you opt not to put one on another car?
Dick Ryan - The Rad Dad
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
>Marc,
>I had one on my lowered car. It works well, but I would not opt to =
>install one on another car. Can probably buy one for $150.00 plus =
>shipping.
>Steve shortz
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Marc Levy [SMTP:marc.levy@prudential.com]
>Sent: Thursday, August 21, 1997 11:19 AM
>To: dmcnews@world.std.com
>Subject: DML: Anti Sway Bar?
>
>Steve Writes:
>>ADDCO had sway bars for the rear of the DeLOREAN. The are located in
>>Lake Park, FL. Area code 561. Roland is the president.
>
>Anyone have any experience with this? How much is it? Does it really=20
>make a difference? Will it work on lowered cars?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 09:52:53 -0500
From: "John P. Chandler II"
Subject: DML: RE: delorean glue-on weatherstrip
I justy called Grady and they quoted me $99 for each half.
John P. Chandler II
Hayward, WI. 54843
Voice: 715-462-9337
Fax: 715-462-3682
On Saturday, August 23, 1997 6:53 AM, KKoncelik@aol.com
[SMTP:KKoncelik@aol.com] wrote:
> If you need Glue on weatherstrip and have been holding off because it has
> been extremely pricy at about $268.40 for the set. I believe PJ Grady is
> now
> selling it for $119.95 per set less than half the price. Check it out at
> 1-800-350-7429. A friend of mine just bought some and that is the price
> he
> said it was.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 11:26:10 -0400
From: "Brandon S. Moody"
Subject: Re: DML: RUST !
> Brandon,
>
> OK lets say I pull the roof panel and get the access port open, what
> do you recomend to prevent the water problem?
>
> Lee
>
> VIN# 5729
Well, I guess it all depends on the extent of the damage. As for my
car,
and the other cars I have worked on. I removed all of the hardware
(hinges
t-Bars, etc. Had the entire fiber body of the car coated with Rhino
Linings
poymer, fabricated a new cross beam assembly from a sheet of Stainless
Steel,
and reinstalled everything. Its a simple made piece if you have access
to
a sheet metal brake.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 09:52:24 -0600
From: Michael Fischer
Subject: DML: Console Hummm
I was flipping through an old (1992) DeLorean One catalogue, and at
the feul pump etc. section they had a quiz, which if you answered yes
could indicate fuel system problems.
Well, one of the questions was about a humming from the centre console
and I do have that, but there was no hint as to what causes it.
The humm seems to be from the centre, rear of the car. So I don't
think it's fuel pump or accumulator, plus I haven't had any starting
problems or what. (But, I want to prevent any before they start)
Anyone have any ideas on what the hum could be?
- --
+-----------------+------------------------------+--------------------+
|_________________| Michael.Fischer@pipe.nova.ca |____________________|
|"This is almost as much fun as catching bowling balls with my teeth."|
+-----------------+------------------------------+--------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 16:10:56 -0500
From: "Travis H. Graham"
Subject: DML: rear speaker replacement
I was trying to replace the rear speakers in my D when I ran into a =
problem. I pulled off some of the black rubber cushion and right around =
the rubber, it looks as if the rear panel is sealed on by the plastic. =
Do I have to cut this plastic to pull back the panel? Is there some =
magic way to get this rear panel off without cutting the plastic? Does =
anyone else ever wonder why the SERVICE MANUAL always makes tasks seem =
so easy...
Travis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 17:25:28 -0400
From: Htos Drol
Subject: Re: DML: The D2 Has Me Depressed
>All this talk about the D2 has got me depressed. You see, I plan to buy a
>DeLorean in the future, and I'd prefer it if the DeLorean remained as it
>was
>-- one car made over a period of three (two) years.
>
>If Johnny Z. actually starts producing the so-called D2, the original
>won't
>be as "unique" or as fun to drive IMO....especially if the D2 is
>mass-produced on the scale of your average Ford Taurus...
Hey Mike,
The (mass) production of the D2 shouldn't matter to those who own
a
"classic" DeLorean. Just look at other classic cars such as Mustangs and
Corvettes. Even though there are 52 million of each on the road today,
nothing turns heads like a restored 58 Vette or a 65 Stang....or an 81
DMC.
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 97 14:24:30 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: DML: Newly redesigned DOA website
As announced in the latest issue of DeLorean World, the newly redesigned
DOA website is up and running at http://www.delorean-owners.org
The DOA is to be congratulated for expending the funds to create a very
high quality web site that contains some very useful information. In
addition to a plethora of information about the DOA, they have a nice
history of John DeLorean and DeLorean Motor Company at:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/legend/index.html
Interestingly enough, save for one sentence, it's almost an exact
duplicate of the history which *I* wrote a few years back for Dave
Takeuchi's web site (which is still posted), listing myself as the author.
http://www.valzog.com/delorean/history.html
Seems that the DOA only likes some of the things I write! :)
James Espey
Permission is given to post any of my writings so long as credit is given
as shown below:
Copyright 1997, James Espey - www.dmcnews.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 97 14:35:40 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Re: DML: rear speaker replacement
On 8/25/97 9:04 PM, Travis shared these fine thoughts...
>the rubber, it looks as if the rear panel is sealed on by the plastic. =
>Do I have to cut this plastic to pull back the panel? Is there some =
On my car, #10570, I ran into the same problem. Upon careful inspection
after removing the weatherstripping, I found the plastic would come loose
from the fiberglass "cut-out" lip of the door and allow me to remove the
panel. I used a little rubber cement to reattach it before re-installing
the weatherstripping.
Rear panels seem to have changed a couple of times through the production
run. On some 81's I have seen the armrest extension is NOT covered with
the same plastic the panel itself is, while on my 82 it is. I imagine
this was done to lengthen the life as they tended to come loose from
peoples butt rubbing against them as they got in and out...
James
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 20:01:14 -0400
From: Steve Shortz
Subject: RE: DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
Dick,
I think that the DMC handles well as it left the factory. It is nicely
balanced and I think you can probably spend the money for other
improvements. I think if you were to autocross the car or race the car
it
would be helpful. For the every-day driving experience, the car drives
nicely without the modification.
Kind Regards,
Steve
s.shortz@mci2000.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: raddad@cmn.net [SMTP:raddad@cmn.net]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 1997 9:45 AM
To: dmcnews@world.std.com
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Anti Sway Bar?
Steve
If it worked well, why would you opt not to put one on another car?
Dick Ryan - The Rad Dad
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
>Marc,
>I had one on my lowered car. It works well, but I would not opt to =
>install one on another car. Can probably buy one for $150.00 plus =
>shipping.
>Steve shortz
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Marc Levy [SMTP:marc.levy@prudential.com]
>Sent: Thursday, August 21, 1997 11:19 AM
>To: dmcnews@world.std.com
>Subject: DML: Anti Sway Bar?
>
>Steve Writes:
>>ADDCO had sway bars for the rear of the DeLOREAN. The are located in
>>Lake Park, FL. Area code 561. Roland is the president.
>
>Anyone have any experience with this? How much is it? Does it really=20
>make a difference? Will it work on lowered cars?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 19:21:44 -0700
From: e/evan/altendorf
Subject: Re: DML: Info on D2 from Detroit Free Press - 8/15/97
For those of you without access to the paper itself, you may read
about it at:
http://www.freep.com/business/qjohnd15.htm
http://www.freep.com/business/qalum3.htm
Very very strange... Improbable and unlikely sounding at best, but
hey, the media reported it! :)
- -e.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 97 12:21:09 -0400
From: Bruce A Wilcoxon
Subject: Re: DML: Info on D2 from Detroit Free Press - 8/15/97
>(not necessarily to post, just a point of interest) The Lambourgini
>Diabolo has a 6-litre plus V12 engine, top speed of 202MPH, and 0-60 in
>4sec. It is the third fastest car in the world after the XJ220 and McLaren
>F1. It costs well over 100000pounds ($160000). One of the reasons why
>many people, including myself, are more than a little dubious of D's
>claims!!!
>
>Martin
>
>On Thu, 21 Aug 1997, James Espey wrote:
>
>> DeLorean said he was "well into the development" of a roadster, a
>> gullwing sports coupe and an SUV. Claimed weight on the sports car is
>> 1450 lbs with speeds of 0-60 in 3.2 seconds and priced less than $20,000.
>> A production site hasn't been named though headquarters and an engineerng
>> facility are planned for Long Island, NY. Intro dates were not mentioned.
>>
>> James
>>
>
>
Sorry this is a little late I just got back online. Power has only
partly to do with acceleration as the new Lotus is evidence of. While I
was in England I had the opportunity to drive one and is that mother
fast. It does 0-100 km in about 4.4 sec with a tiny non-turbo four
cylinder that produces 130 bhp and about 117 lbs of torque. The reason
it moves like it does is that it weighs less than 1500 lbs and is
perfectly balanced.
If Delorean used a larger turbo engine speeds around 3.5 or so are
possible. As for the price I think that's a little light. The Lotus
runs about $30,000 but it costs more to build cars in England.
My $0.02
Bruce
Bruce A Wilcoxon
Off Beat Sound
2785 Tigertail Ave #309
Coconut Grove FL 33133
bawilcox@ix.netcom.com
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1986 02:42:02 -0700
From: Lee Seiler
Subject: Re: DML: RUST !
At 11:26 AM 8/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> Brandon,
>>
>> OK lets say I pull the roof panel and get the access port open, what
>> do you recomend to prevent the water problem?
>>
>> Lee
>>
>> VIN# 5729
>
>Well, I guess it all depends on the extent of the damage. As for my
>car,
>and the other cars I have worked on. I removed all of the hardware
>(hinges
>t-Bars, etc. Had the entire fiber body of the car coated with Rhino
>Linings
>poymer, fabricated a new cross beam assembly from a sheet of Stainless
>Steel,
>and reinstalled everything. Its a simple made piece if you have access
>to
>a sheet metal brake.
>
>-Brandon
>
Brandon,
.......>I guess it all depends on the extent of the damage.<.....
I guess I was not clear in my question. I will try again...wink!
Lets say I get the "T" center section off the DMC and check for
rust
damage, and apart from what I find, What is the fix for the leaking water?
or to put it another way, what needs to be done to prevent continued
leaking. seems pointles to build a new steel box if the water continues to
flood into the steel box area.
Does this clear up my question?
BTW I did understand your comments about the repair for the rusted
out steel box-section....and I have printed it out and put it in my own
tech-notes.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
lee@ccnet.com
Tel: (510) 649-9118 Fax: (510) 848-7613
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 05:58:11 -0500
From: Kevin Wolter
Subject: DML: Testing the temperature gauge
Hello all!
My temperature gauge now reads about 130ish. I was wondering if there =
is a way to apply a voltage / resistance to the electronics of the =
system to see if gauge or sensor went bad or if the thermostat is stuck =
open? If it is possible then what values do the gauge and sensor =
require? What should the V / R value at the sensor be at normal =
operation?
I would prefer to test the gauge and sensor before having to rip apart =
the entire manifold to get to the thermostat only to discover that the =
thermostat is not the problem.
Thanks in advance.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1986 03:02:15 -0700
From: Lee Seiler
Subject: Re: DML: Newly redesigned DOA website
At 02:24 PM 8/25/97 -0000, you wrote:
>As announced in the latest issue of DeLorean World, the newly redesigned
>DOA website is up and running at http://www.delorean-owners.org
>
>The DOA is to be congratulated for expending the funds to create a very
>high quality web site that contains some very useful information. In
>addition to a plethora of information about the DOA, they have a nice
>history of John DeLorean and DeLorean Motor Company at:
>
>http://www.delorean-owners.org/legend/index.html
>
>Interestingly enough, save for one sentence, it's almost an exact
>duplicate of the history which *I* wrote a few years back for Dave
>Takeuchi's web site (which is still posted), listing myself as the author.
>
>http://www.valzog.com/delorean/history.html
>
>Seems that the DOA only likes some of the things I write! :)
>
>James Espey
>Permission is given to post any of my writings so long as credit is given
>as shown below:
>
>Copyright 1997, James Espey - www.dmcnews.com
>
Hello James,
I have a letter to you as I mentioned in a recent post. Speaking
of
copyright infringements, changing a line in a whole work does not protect
the would-be author from claims of copyright infringement. Yes I know all
about fair use and all that, and writing a history about any one or time
will always have many similar or even identical fact issues, but a word
for
word copy is not only a federal crime, it's also really bad taste.
When you get my letter you will note that I included your
"Espey@DMCNEWS.COM" business card. it's really great, the full color
picture
of your DMC with the "JVE's DMC" license plate is very swank! I love
seeing
class when it comes to business cards. I think the lamination adds a very
professional look as well. One question though?......where did you find
such
a perfect place to photograph your DMC? The ground seems perfect with the
emerald green grass and yellow corn flowers, and how on earth did you
drive
the DMC to where it is in the photo with out leaving any tire tracks, the
flowers around the tires are not even bent let alone crushed! I am
impressed
and how!.....smile...Wink!
If you don't mind a suggestion?..You should realy post your card,
and maybe send one to subscribers of this list (forum). I love mine, as I
am
sure you know!
Thanks again
Lee
VIN# 5729
lee@ccnet.com
Tel: (510) 649-9118 Fax: (510) 848-7613
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 9:13:27 -0400
From: "Rob Corkum"
Subject: re: DML: rear speaker replacement
> I was trying to replace the rear speakers in my D when I ran
> into a problem. Is there some magic way to get this rear panel
> off without cutting the plastic?
Travis,
Hi. I'm working on a complete competition system in my car. It
all started a couple of years ago when I wanted to so was replace
the worn out rear speakers like you. As I was doing that, I did
research (like any good shopper) on the best speakers to be placing
back there, which lead me to magazines and shops, etc. My interest
took off from there which leads me to where I am today and where
I'm going with my sound system. But that's another story (and
another message sometime!)...
Anyways, in answer to your question: The best way to proceed without
hurting those panels is to first remove all your inner weather
stripping and the upper seat belt hardware. Then, very carefully
with a heat gun (on LOW!) or hair dryer (I didn't have one - figures)
slowly warm the turned over edge of the panel. With a little coaxing
with the end of a screw driver or scraper, the edge should be quite
pliable and release its hold on the fiberglass. Follow along the
entire length of the panel at the door. Caution -- as it cools, the
it becomes hard and potentially brittle again. Store them in a safe
place because apparently, they are not available any more if you
crack them.
After I installed the new baffle boards and speakers with wiring,
etc. I re-installed the panels. I cleaned off/out the old glue first
from the door area and the panels, and re-applied rubber cement as
per its directions. Then simply reverse the heating procedure to
make the seal along the edge again.
Good Luck!
//Rob//
rob.corkum@hrdc-drhc.gc.ca
DMCC member @ http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8842/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 10:53:53 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody"
Subject: Re: DML: RUST !
> .......>I guess it all depends on the extent of the damage.<.....
> I guess I was not clear in my question. I will try again...wink!
>
> Lets say I get the "T" center section off the DMC and check for
> rust
> damage, and apart from what I find, What is the fix for the leaking water?
> or to put it another way, what needs to be done to prevent continued
> leaking. seems pointles to build a new steel box if the water continues to
> flood into the steel box area.
>
> Does this clear up my question?
>
> BTW I did understand your comments about the repair for the rusted
> out steel box-section....and I have printed it out and put it in my own
> tech-notes.
OK, first I removed all hardware, screws, bolts, hinges, etc..
completely
scraped away all of the putty/ sealer on the roof. the steel box was held
in place with 6 bolts through the roof into the flat bottom of the box. I
installed my new box a little different. I drilled 3 holes down each side
of
the new box into the roof. aligning them with the 2 bolts on the bottom
side of the hinge assembly. OK, after I had everything installed, bolted
down, doors put on for testing of hinge /door alignment. I removed
the doors and t-bars but left the hinges installed. I then took the
car to a Rhino Linings dealer http://www.rhinolinings.com/htm/english1.htm
and they sprayed the entire top of the car down to the door latch pin
assemblies.
From the top edge of the rear window to the top edge of the front
windshield.
Now, my car is completely air/water tight. I know this is hard to
understand
without pictures, but I am thinking about putting all of my photos of the
restoration
on the Web in the near future. I did many modifications to the car like
relocation
of all relays, fuses, electonic modules, battery, etc.....
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 11:40:31 -0400
From: Mike Substelny
Subject: DML: Re: DOA redesigned website
James said:
> Interestingly enough, save for one sentence, it's almost an exact
> duplicate of the history which *I* wrote a few years back for Dave
> Takeuchi's web site (which is still posted), listing myself as the author.
Yes, the two texts do appear to be almost identical. It is a good
document with lots of accurate info, and I for one am happy that a lot of
people will see it. I seriously doubt that the DOA did this to
intentionally
snub you, James. The web developer they hired probably saw the text
and said "Hey, this would be a pretty good thing to include!"
There is so much stuff on this new website that I expect there might be
other material with similarly questionable background.
James, if it matters to you, I suggest that you send the DOA a message
politely requesting that the words "adapted from an original text by
James Espey" be added as a footnote.
The new DOA website does have a LOT of good stuff. The best parts,
like the aforementioned text, are hidden under the "Legend" button. The
pictures are good (one picture has Dave Colley's red DeLorean beside
Rob Grady's green DeLorean as seen in Nashville), and the buying tips
are a great idea (although I hope they expand this section soon). The
"Marketplace" online catalogue does not appear to be working today.
The DOA website has pretty ambitious goals of regular features and
updates. I hope they can keep up with everything the website promises
to deliver! Apparently it has a LOT of sponsors, which will help.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 09:20:00 -0000
From: "Mike Substelny"
Subject: DML: Note to DeLorean Owners Directory participants
The current edition of the DeLorean Owners Directory, dated 8/15/97 is
available in both PDF and tab-delimited text files formats in the
DMC-News Lounge at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/lounge/newslounge.html
A significantly updated edition will be distributed in October and I
strongly encourage everyone listed to PLEASE verify the information
listed for themselves. If you have any corrections or updates, please use
the form in the lounge:
http://www.dmcnews.com/lounge/update.html
Direct questions/comments to "directory@dmcnews.com" - those who are not
yet participating in the DeLorean Owners Directory but would like to are
welcome to use the form at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html
Those without web access can send an email to "directory@dmcnews.com" to
receive a text version of the form.
Thanks!
Mike Substelny
Keeper of the DeLorean Owners Directory
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 09:57:31 -0700
From: "Ace Underhill"
Subject: DML: New toy for your De Loreans!
I was watching Back to the Future and noticed that the De Lorean Time
Machine made a really cool sound whenever the doors open. Why doesn't MY
De Lorean make those sounds? Well, because Hollywood has to 'spice up'
reality to make it more entertaining. But I want to make MY reality more
entertaining. (I'm a Microsoft Consultant, I need all the help I can
get!)
So, I am designing a device that will make that cool Time Machine sound
when I open my doors, and I am open to suggestions from all of my fellow
list members, - that's YOU.
The following is a list of design objectives/guidelines that I would
like to follow. If you think I should add something, please let me know.
1. Unit must be self-contained. No wiring modifications made to the
car.
2. Unit must be relatively inexpensive. I know how expensive the
'little
things' for our
cars can be, so I don't want to spend too much.
3. Sound must be of high quality and adequate volume.
4. Unit must have a disable switch. For when the car must be stored.
5. Unit must follow the color scheme and overall 'look' of the DMC-12,
and/or be small
enough to be mounted in an inconspicous place.
A couple things I would like your opinion on...
Should it be activated only by the driver door, or the passenger as well?
Should it be wired into the existing door switch or dome light, (which
would defeat guideline #1 but be cheaper) or have a new switch to be
fitted
to the door jamb(s)?
Most of you probably think I'm crazy for making such a useless
device.
Well the truth is, it is useless, but has a very high 'Wow Factor'.
Besides, I'm sure that some of you have even crazier hobbies than I do.
;-)
Any suggestions will be appreciated, except those involving
psychiatric
wards, and who knows, maybe some of YOU would be crazy enough to put one
in
your car!
-Ace Underhill-
luuke@primenet.com
VIN 2860
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 11:24:51 -0600
From: "Aaron Barrus"
Subject: Re: DML: New toy for your De Loreans!
Ace Underhill wrote:
>open to suggestions from all of my fellow list members, - that's YOU.
Yep, this is an absolutely useless idea. Wonderful! My suggestions:
1. it MUST stop making the noise when the doors reach their full height.
this may vary depending on temperature. Otherwise it would look really
fake/cheap.
2. would be very cool to, after the doors reach their height, make
another
sound like the winding-down of the motor? Kinda like when the
millenium-fa
lcon lands and the engines shut down? I dunno, maybe that's even more
stupid . . .
3. I'd stick it on both doors. It would be fun to see a passenger's
shock upon opening the door and hearing the sound.
4. After fully opening, a beautiful female voice announces "Enter when
ready, Ace!"
Another absolutely useless idea (since many people dislike the wimpy
sound
of the PRV): On one of my cars, I hooked my stereo antenna to my ignition
coil. This produced a ZAP on my car stereo, which I amplified through
600
watts and two 15" subs. Made my little Toyota Supra sound like a
tremendous muscle machine! I put many throaty V8's to shame.
Aaron
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 13:08:27 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody"
Subject: Re: DML: DOA redesigned website
Just wandering if anyone noticed the picture of the Delorean
Engine on the site ? I just wander if this is a picture of one
of the original twin turbo engines ? Its a little different but
the graphic is small and hard to get a real good detail look
at.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 10:57:35 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: DML: Reprinted from "Sports Car Market", August 1997
The following is excerpted from the "Ask Mr. Kerb" column in the August
1997 edition of the national magazine, "Sports Car Market", published by
Keith Martin. In addition to his own magazine, Mr. Martin publishes a
weekly column in "AutoWeek" magazine. I highly recommend both. Special
thanks to Bruce Benson, a regular here on the DELOREAN MAILING LIST, for
sending this to me.
- --------------------------
Dear Mr. Kerb: I have a chance to buy a collection of five DeLoreans,
all in mint condition. Two are five-speeds, three are automatics. They
all have less than 1000 miles and have never been titled. I could get all
five for $100,000. I've heard that the president of the DeLorean club
says these cars will be worth $50,000 a piece in a few years, so this
seems like a great deal. Your opinion? - J.B. Dayton, OH
Dear Mr. B: Don't get me wrong, I don't hate DeLoreans even though
that might seem like the case when I tell you that the cars have little
future as serious collector's cars. A good, five speed car is a decent
driver; I have seen low-mileage cars sell in the $11-12,000 range. So
while the cars you describe have very low mileage, the average purchase
price in the package is $20,000, and we can expect the automatics to sell
for less than the five speeds.
If DeLorean continue to drop, the whole package could easily be worth
as little as $50,000. Making the $100,000 asking price not a very good
buy in anyone's ballpark. Why don't you offer this package to the
DeLorean club president, since he thinks they have such astronomical
price potential. But the real question is should you approach him before
or after he has taken his medication?
Reprinted with permission of the publisher.
Sports Car Market, 503-252-5812
- ---------------------------
While I would love to see the value of our cars rise as much as any other
owner, I have no intentions of selling. I get my enjoyment not from
knowing I have a car worth X number of dollars, but from knowing that I
have a unique, fun-to-drive car with an interesting history. I consider
myself fortunate to own one.
James
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #275
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