Tuesday, August 4 1998 Volume 03 : Number 395
In this issue:
DML: RE: Dash removal
Re: DML: VIN Question
DML: Re: VIN Question
Re: DML: parts reference guide
DML: More electrical stuff
DML: Cooling fans
DML: price
Re: DML: More electrical stuff
DML: Re: Re: Wheel Balancing
DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
DML: Help me clear out this DeLorean memorabilia/parts!
DML: Literature Needed!
DML: Re: More electrical stuff
DML: Re: Cooling fans
DML: Shipping by Sea
DML: Governor rebuild help
DML: Seat Covers
Re: DML: price
DML: RE: parts reference guide
DML: Wheel Balancing
Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
DML: DOC Website
Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
Re: DML: Shipping by Sea
DML: Service Facilities
Re: DML: Seat Covers
DML: Re: DOOR AJAR LIGHT
DML: Up-Date
DML: Auto Trans not shifting
DML: Re: Service Facilities
DML: Re: Shipping by Sea
Re: DML: Seat Covers and Leather Protectant
DML: Door Light Diodes
DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: RE: Auto Trans not shifting
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Playboy JZD Interview Article
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 13:43:51 -0500 From: thgraham(AT)edge.net (Travis Graham) Subject: DML: RE: Dash removal
I have some very basic instructions for dash and binnacle removal on my web site at http://edge.net/~thgraham/projects/instruct.htm Keep in mind that the dash article was written some time after the removal, so it's a little rusty. But it should give you an idea of what you are getting into. My belief is that the repair shop won't care for my car like I do, therefore I always do all repairs that I can by myself. The dash is definitely possible for a do-it-yourselfer. Good luck!
Travis Graham
- -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com [mailto:dmcnews(AT)world.std.com] On Behalf Of De Miller Sent: Friday, July 31, 1998 11:08 PM To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com Subject: DML: Dash removal
question is this: can the dash be "easily" removed so I can take it to the repair shop?
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:23:22 -0000 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: DML: VIN Question
On 8/1/98 6:46 AM, OLopez1(AT)aol.com shared these fine thoughts...
>I have a question about the VIN numbers on the DeLoreans
From the DMC-News Back Issues, #272, written by Robert Lamrock:
Yes I am one and the same although I don't profess to be a world expert - that was Classic & Sports Car's opinion not mine. However I thought you might like to read about your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) and how it came about.
The Vehicle Identification Number is a 17 character alpha/numeric number with 10 fixed characters and 7 variable characters:-
SCEDT26T (X) AD 000000 Constant Check Constant Ascending Digit Sequence
SCE = World Manufacturer Code
D = Car Line
T = Series
2 = Body Type
6 = Engine
T = Restraint System
X = Check Digit
A = Model Year
D = Plant of Manufacture
000000 = Serial Number
The year of manufacture is determined from the following table; 1980 A 1981 B 1982 C 1983 D If production had continued then 1984 was coded E and so on. There were codes in place right up to the year 2012!!!
For those mathematicians out there you can calculate the Check Digit by the following; a) Assign to each number in the VIN its actual mathematical value and to each letter the value specified in Table 1. b) Multiply the assigned value for each character in the VIN by the weight factor specified in Table 2. Multiply the check digit by 0. c) Add the resulting products and divide the total by 11. d) The remainder is the check digit. If the remainder is 10 the Check Digit is X.
Don't ask me how or why but it works!! (See my calculation below tables)
TABLE 1 Mathematical Value of Letters in the VIN A = 1 B = 2 C = 3 D = 4 E = 5 F = 6 G = 7 H = 8 J = 1 K = 2 L = 3 M =4 N = 5 P = 7 R = 9 S = 2 T = 3 U = 4 V = 5 W = 6 X = 7 Y = 8 Z= 9
TABLE 2 Character and Weight Factor 1st = 8 2nd = 7 3rd = 6 4th = 5 5th = 4 6th = 3 7th = 2 8th = 10 Check Digit = 0 9th = 9 10th = 8 11th = 7 12th = 6 13th = 5 14th = 4 15th = 3 16th = 2
My VIN Calculation
S C E D T 2 6 T (Check Digit) B D 0 0 3 9 1 5 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 2 3 5 4 3 2 6 3 (0) 2 4 0 0 3 9 1 5 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 10 (0) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 = 16 +21+ 30+ 20 +12 +6 +12 +30 +0 +18 + 32 + 0 + 0 + 15 + 36 + 3 + 10
Grand total = 261
Divide by 11 = 23 remainder 8. HEY PRESTO MY CHECK DIGIT !
Search the back issues - that's why they're there!
James Espey Use the back issue search engine! http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 14:14:30 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: VIN Question
OL, All cars built for USA distribution USA a 17 digit coding system, this code has a formula which identifies the model year, body type, engine, manufacturing plant, etc.. The final one to six digits identifies the chassis number. Due to the fact that most DeLorens share similar codes due to the fact that there is only one body style, one engine type, one factory, etc., DeLorean owners use only the last five digits to identify their vehicles. Here is an example of a full DeLorean VIN# : SCEDT26T3BDO03370
- ---------- > I have a question about the VIN numbers on the DeLoreans > > Most people when they post a message or refer to their car usually post the > last four or five digits of the VIN number. Since I don't own a DeLorean > (yet) I was wondering if the beginning part part of the VIN number is the > same to all DeLoreans. If so what would an entire VIN look like. > > Thanx > OL
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:27:45 -0000 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: DML: parts reference guide
On 8/1/98 5:48 PM, De Miller shared these fine thoughts...
> I would like to know if there is some sort of master parts catalog, >reference listing etc., available? It would be helpful to use on the >great site service Delorean Motor Company has. I've used it a couple >times and it works great, but I don't know the correct name for the >parts I'm looking for and it apparently needs the correct name.
(SNIP)
The DMC-News site contains a PDF version of the factory parts manual that is free to download. Look for it at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html
There are a lot of interesting things at the website, including a searchable archive of the 390+ back issues of the DeLorean Mailing List.
James Espey Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List http://www.dmcnews.com/
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Date: Sat, 01 Aug 1998 16:21:48 -0700 From: matthias(AT)mediaone.net Subject: DML: More electrical stuff
The non-switched 12V+ on my radio vanished some weeks ago and I feel like the AC fan died at the same time. The manual sais there is a fuse in the radio line, but it doesn't say where. Where does this cable (it is violet) come from and where is the fuse (if any).
Thanks! Matt
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 23:30:57 EDT From: FerrisBuh(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: Cooling fans
Friends,
I have to say that I appreciate all the replies about my cooling fan situation. However, I think I was a little too vague. Hence: Okay, about six months ago, I upgraded the relay dept. Then, I hit a series of bumps in the road, wishing shortly afterward I had let my friend drive. Well, the next thing I knew, I am in the sweatbox from Ireland, with the temp. gauge soaring like an eagle. I got out of the car, and the fans had stopped. A local shop told me that the old UK fans had both been surged and had burnt out. Rob Grady and Don Steiger said they had never heard of two fans going out at once, ever. Well, I had both fans replaced with Bosch fans (which I am told are reliable, but blow less air than original). I brought the car home to two fans that never shut off (lending credibility to Bruce Benson's concept). So, I replaced the thermostatic sending switch. Then, the fans never went on. Well, come to find out, the lead wire for the fans, was loose. $800 just whisked away in fans and labor? Well, now, the fans went on and off without problem, however, Duke had a valid point here, the fans did cycle fine when my idle was bad (1300 rpm idle). Well, Don went through the car at Delorean Motor Center and replaced the sending switch with a new one, and with a new seal. Now here is where Knut has a point; does the sending switch have a lead and ground? Close inspection of the switch shows no + or -.
Right now, the Bosch fans come on at about 195 degrees, and as Knut predicted, shut off at 155 or so. I understand that 210 and 190 are the turn on/turn off temps, respectively. With the thermostat looking for a higher temp, highway driving isn't enough to turn them off. And, I'm sorry for not specifying, the a/c has been off. I like the open mail slot driving.
Since the idle was fixed, the fans have been a problem. Duke, Knut, Bruce, Joe, any suggestions?
Contemplating why my girlfriend thinks I love the car more than her, Dave Lic. Insecur
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Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 08:34:14 +0100 From: Kieran Masterton <kieran(AT)ukonline.net> Subject: DML: price
hiya all
I just wanted to ask you guys if you thought you can still buy a delorean for $10,000 or am I being to much of a cheap state. I do want to have to do it up because I am buying it as a project for my Dad and myself to work on so it does not have to be in great shape. I would like to know are there still deloreans ot there for that price or will I have to keep saving ? I am asking this because I have only seen D's (AT) that price on the web and most of them are months old !!
thanks in advance
P.S. Is there anywhere on the web with good listing of D's for sale that is always updated apart from http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk because it is down atm :) Kieran Masterton
Technical Support at the easynet & ukonline national call centre
http://www.easynet.co.uk & www.ukonline.co.uk
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Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 10:10:12 EDT From: DMC3309(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: More electrical stuff
Matt,
The fuse you are looking for is an inline glass fuse that should be in the radio wiring harness that comes out of the back of the radio. There should be two of them. One for the power to the radio and one for the memory back up.
Robert VIN 3309
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Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 12:49:59 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Re: Wheel Balancing
Aaron, There are a number of factors that can cause wheel shimmy but the most common by far is wheel balancing. If your balancing procedures wear off after a short period of time you probably have a defective tire. "Out of round" or an uneven wear pattern is most common. The procedure for "on the car" balancing is rather simple and straight forward. Two people are required to quickly and effectively complete the procedure. One person is outside the vehicle operating a tire spinner. This is a machine that is placed under the wheel that is being adjusted, it has two large rollers that turn and cause the wheel to spin. The operator can control the rate of spin i.e.: tire MPH. As the wheel is spun up to speed the person inside the car holds the steering wheel as if driving the car and feels for any shimmy. Balancing weights are than attached to the wheel and the procedure is repeated. This process is repeated until all wheel shimmy is eliminated. The advantage of this system is that the dynamics of every item in the suspension system becomes part of the balancing procedure insuring much better results. All high performance cars are wheel balanced in this manner. As mentioned before, if you have a defective tire even this procedure will not reduce the frequency of repeated balances. On the other hand the "on the car" balance can more accurately diagnose a defective tire. The average Pep Boys/Goodyear dealers are not equipped to provide this service. Alignment shops that advertise performance or racing alignment service are usually equipped to do "on the car balancing" .Joe/DeLorean Services
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Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 12:47:52 -0500 From: steve r <stephenr(AT)net-2000.net> Subject: DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
Dear friends,
As each day passes by we are getting closer and closer to the meeting I am trying to arrange in Biloxi, MS. We really aren't meeting in Biloxi. The restaurant is in Gulfport. I have no idea why I keep saying Biloxi.
The name of the place we will get together is Morison's Fresh Cooking. They are located at 9400 Hwy. 49 and are in Gulfport. I hope this place will be easy to find since it is located across the street from Wal-Mart. If you need to call them they are at 228-868-2962.
As for the people who will be there, there should be three Alabama owners and I know there will be at least one Louisiana owner. There are about three more Louisiana owners that would like to attend. One of them has told me that he will not be able to make it and the others won't know until the last minute. I still know of another Louisiana owner and I have been trying to get his contact info for the past week or two. A friend of mine told me he should have the mans number soon so I will go and see if he has gotten it yet.
I hope the numbers of people attending doesn't seem to small. I don't want to have a meeting that isn't going to be as good as everyone is expecting. All this should be is just a small lunch for about an hour or so and then we will all be going home. It is always fun to meet with other enthusiasts and with owners. I just hope there isn't much disapointment.
If you are one of the people that hasn't decided if or not you will be there please give me a call as soon as you can so we can discuss the matter. Page me at 504-350-7911 or call 504-386-3816.
Thanks for reading this far, Steve Rice
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Date: Sun, 2 Aug 98 12:54:15 -0700 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: Help me clear out this DeLorean memorabilia/parts!
I would like to clear out some of this DeLorean "stuff" that is taking up space..email me for ordering info or other information.
(1) copy of Stainless Steel Illusion. This is a pre-release book, sent out to reviewers, bookstores, etc. I am told that generally speaking, only a few hundred of these books are ever produced. Before the book is sent out for the hardback binding process, the Publisher pulls some books and puts a "quick binding" on them to get them in the hands of those reviewers and purchasing people. I have only seen two other examples of this type of SSI. I am asking $190 it.
(3) copies of THE DELOREAN TAPES ($40). This book was published inthe UK and I have never seen one for sale here in the States. It contains the transcripts of the FBi surveillance tapes during their failed attempt to entrap JZD. Interesting reading...
(4) copies of Special Interest Autos ($6) from June of 1995, which has the DeLorean on the cover (this is one of of the early cars with the white letters on the bumper). It has a nice article on the car written by former DMC exec Mike Knepper.
(1) copy of October 1985 Playboy ($20). Contains one of the first post-trial DeLorean interviews. Buy this and you can say that you *DO* read Playboy for the articles. Also has the distinction of being the first Playboy with a flat-edge binding.
Still have a few DeLorean hood emblems at $20 each, and one or two cargo nets at $70 each,too.
Interesting trades always considered....
James Espey Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List http://www.dmcnews.com
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Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 23:51:28 -0400 From: "yugoman" <mdrig(AT)email.msn.com> Subject: DML: Literature Needed!
My car only came with a Xerox of the owner's handbook. Does anyone have an original copy for sale at a reasonable price? Better yet the whole package with warranty book, dealer list, etc.?
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Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 12:57:26 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: More electrical stuff
Matt, Both radio fuses are in-line type glass fuses and are located just below the radio behind the A.C. control panel. They are usually best accessed from the passenger foot well. Joe/DeLorean Services
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 03:40:45 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Cooling fans
Here are the factory specs for cooling fan operation. Fans on at 207 F off at 196 F. The temperature switch has no polarity, the ground wire can be connected to either side of the switch. PS: A gentleman should not love his car more than his girlfriend, except if the car is a DeLorean. Joe/DeLorean Services
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 19:49:54 +0100 From: "Ian T. A. Foster" <ian(AT)netvigator.com> Subject: DML: Shipping by Sea
Hallo DMCers,
Your comments and experiences would be appreciated on shipping a DMC by sea.
I'm shipping my '81 DMC from Baltimore to N.Ireland in October'98 by a roll-on, roll-off ferry. As it will probably be open to the elements of the N.Atlantic I'd appreciate any advice on suitable protection. I have been told that 'ordinary cars' will get a coat of "Waxoil" to protect them during the journey. I'm a little nervous about spraying this over my gleaming stainless steel. Also I saw a couple of DMCs in LA that seemed to have reacted with the salt-air near the coast.
If anyone has shipped a DMC before I'd appreciate hearing how you prepared it?
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 08:24:26 -0400 From: sontos <sontos(AT)ibm.net> Subject: DML: Governor rebuild help
Ok, say it, we told you so. The auto trans shifting problem "Was" the computer governor. After replacing the Vacuum Modulator it still would not shift. (Another $116 up in smoke). Following Mark Hersey's posting from March I disassembled the governor and lo and behold there were the two capacitors with their guts blown out.
Heres the problem, the first capacitor reads 4.7/16 which I assume means 4.7 microfarad(AT)16 volts. The second capacitor I can only partially read - --0/10.
Can someone tell me what part to use here?
Thanks Dave VIN 2573
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:40:13 EDT From: Mzmimi98(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: Seat Covers
My car seats are in terrible condition. Does anyone know of cloth seat covers that might work? Also my dash has several cracks and sun damage. What can I do?
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 20:18:00 +0100 From: "Ian T. A. Foster" <ian(AT)netvigator.com> Subject: Re: DML: price
Hi Kieran,
As I think I said previously there are cars out there not being sold. Its very possible those cars in the adverts you saw are still available. I saw one ad in SanDiego which was over a year old and the car was still available. A lot of the owners said they wouldn't go below $14k but when you put cash on the table its amazing how they change their minds. The DMC is not a greatly sought after car so its a "Buyers Market." My DMC was originally advertised for $20k, then $16k two weeks later. He eventually accepted my $10,500 offer. The car is perfect with only 28k miles.
I would advise you to look for a pristine car, forget 'fixer-uppers', you will waste your time and money! There are definitely good 100% cars out there for $10k ... its just being in the right place at the right time!
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong) PS. Did you have any contacts for the Customs and Exise Dept.?
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 07:43:53 -0700 From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud(AT)intel.com> Subject: DML: RE: parts reference guide
"De Miller" <demillerkansas(AT)hotmail.com> wrote:
> I would like to know if there is some sort of master parts > catalog, reference listing etc., available? It would be helpful > to use on the great site service Delorean Motor Company has. > I've used it a couple times and it works great, but I don't > know the correct name for the parts I'm looking for <snip>
The DeLorean Parts Reference Database has a complete searchable and browsable database of the DeLorean parts (its an electronic version of the parts manual). You can download a copy from www.dmcnews.com The parts manual is also available at the web site as a PDF document as well.
In many cases the part namings are not consistent across different organizations' conventions, but the part numbers should match pretty well.
Knut Grimsrud DeLorean Club of Oregon
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 10:11:53 +0000 From: Jim Nichols <jhnichols(AT)earthlink.net> Subject: DML: Wheel Balancing
Forty years ago or so there were three ways to balance a wheel: 1. Static balance with a bubble balancer ( You can still buy one of these.)
2. Dynamic balance by spinning a wheel on a machine similar the the computer balancer but it spun the wheel very fast 3. Spin balance the wheel on the car. It was done only on the front (non driven) wheels and the after balancing, the back wheels were moved to the back. As Joe said, it took two people to do the job. A device was mounted on the rim, similar to the way that the mirrors are mounted for wheel alignment. This device had some slip rings mounted at the axle center and had bearings so that they could be moved while the wheel was spinning. One person would spin the tire with an electric motor mounted on a dolly with about a five foot handle. When to tire was at high speed, the motor was pulled back and the operator adjusted the slip rings to control the amount of weight and its position in the device. Since he was holding onto the device mounted to the rim at its rotation point, he could feel any vibration and correct it by changing the position of the slip rings. When the wheel was stopped the device indicated the amount of weight need and its position on the rim. After weights were added, the device was zeroed and the wheel was spun again. It took five to ten minutes per tire, but remember, they weren't getting $65 an hour back then either. Insurance companies prohibited use of dynamic and spin balancing twenty years or so ago when slow speed computer balancers came along. Jim #6884
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 14:28:03 -0400 From: Marc A Levy <malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com> Subject: Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
I have a 5 speed, but I can tell you to replace those capacitors with higher voltage rated parts. 16V is marginal for a 12V system, and 10V is obviously not enough. No wonder they blew out!
When you replace them, make sure you put them in correctly. Electrolytic capacitors DO have polarity, and will eventualy POP if you put them in wrong.
sontos wrote: > > Ok, say it, we told you so. The auto trans shifting problem "Was" the > computer governor. After replacing the Vacuum Modulator it still would > not shift. (Another $116 up in smoke). Following Mark Hersey's posting > from March I disassembled the governor and lo and behold there were the > two capacitors with their guts blown out. > > Heres the problem, the first capacitor reads 4.7/16 which I assume means > 4.7 microfarad(AT)16 volts. The second capacitor I can only partially read > --0/10. > > Can someone tell me what part to use here? > > Thanks > Dave > VIN 2573
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 02:41:52 +0100 From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is(AT)connect-2.co.uk> Subject: DML: DOC Website
Hey all,
After only three days of being up, my ever-so-helpful ISP took my web space down. That was two weeks ago. As I write this, my computer is busy uploading the website again. There are a few minor changes for those who had already visited it, but to those who haven't seen it may I say:
I hereby proudly present the DeLorean Owners Club UK Website - Again! (sheepish grin)
The URL is http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk
Loads of pictures, and NONE that you will recognise. Includes shots of the 140MPH and 240KPH speedos as well as a factory original right-hand drive car, and much more....
I'd also like to say how much I enjoyed reading John Hanley's transcript of him vs. the taxman :-)
Best Wishes,
Martin
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 02:51:19 +0100 From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is(AT)connect-2.co.uk> Subject: Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
sontos wrote:
> Heres the problem, the first capacitor reads 4.7/16 which I assume means > 4.7 microfarad(AT)16 volts.
Nope. the capacitor value will not change with voltage. You are almost certainly correct about the value though.
> The second capacitor I can only partially read > --0/10. > > Can someone tell me what part to use here? >
If I'm correct, these capacitors are purely there as "smoothing" caps. If someone can confirm this, then it is fine to use a capacitor with a higher value up to a good 10 times the original. The size of the cap is a ROUGH guide as to its value.
Martin
> Thanks > Dave > VIN 2573
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 02:54:58 +0100 From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is(AT)connect-2.co.uk> Subject: Re: DML: Shipping by Sea
No point in touching the stainless, salt won't do anything to it, apart from it needing a clean when you get home.
Could well be worth doing the underside of the car - I know of a car which has this as a preventitive measure anyway.
Martin
Ian T. A. Foster wrote:
> I'm shipping my '81 DMC from Baltimore to N.Ireland in October'98 by a > roll-on, roll-off ferry. As it will probably be open to the elements of > the N.Atlantic I'd appreciate any advice on suitable protection. I have > been told that 'ordinary cars' will get a coat of "Waxoil" to protect > them during the journey. I'm a little nervous about spraying this over > my gleaming stainless steel. Also I saw a couple of DMCs in LA that > seemed to have reacted with the salt-air near the coast
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:03:56 EDT From: CDIUSAMPS(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: Service Facilities
Hate to ask this question but here goes. I need a repair facility in AL, GA or MS area that can adjust doors and adjust the torsion bars. The numbers in the current DML garage list have been disconnected. My garage will do engine, trans, electrical, etc, but not body work. Problems are, passenger door has air leak towards front. Doors do not leak water at all. Door rubber replaced, did not fix it. Both doors droop unless car is at a side angle. Last struts lasted 1 year, these have been on since christmas and did not really work, but I suspected it was due to cold weather. Now it is really hot and they still do not work. Both sets bought from two different major parts suppliers with the "D" word in their title, neither work worth a sh**. Tired of doors hitting me in the head. Thanks in advance. BILL
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:10:04 -0700 From: "lseiler(AT)radiance.com" <lseiler(AT)radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: Seat Covers
At 12:40 PM 8/3/98 EDT, you wrote: >My car seats are in terrible condition. Does anyone know of cloth seat >covers that might work? Also my dash has several cracks and sun damage. >What >can I do? > Reply:
There are a number of solutions, some are better than others and some I am sure others will not agree are reasonable.
1. You can just purchase new (17 year old) originals from any of the DMC suppliers. These will cost from $450 to $600+ per set (2 seta and 2 back covers). If you don't know it they are not "all leather" the originals are "Leather center panel with both inner and outer panels made from "Nauga Hide".
You are still faced with installation and fitting.
2. You can get on occasion NEW made recently Seat covers which are identical to the originals but not 17 years old. These when available are just as expensive and require installation and fitting.
3. You can Make your own seat covers, and use all Leather. (My choice for any future needs I have). This may sound like a poor choice but in fact it is not difficult at all.
4. You can get off the shelf "Seat covers" made of a;; sorts of materials, fake hair, canvas, Fur, Levies, etc......These are cheap and in my view cheapen the DMC when used.
The reality is that once the original materials begin to break down nothing will save them. You may find some one here on the DML or one of the other on-Line access that has a used but fair condition seats for sale.
5. Your final and maybe best option is a local car upholstery shop. The will give you an estimate and wide choice of materials. You may want to get vented seats which on long hot trips are really nice. There is no doubt that you will pay less if you do a little shopping at the local upholsterer.
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 17:09:10 -0400 From: Aldo.Buono(AT)phila.gov Subject: DML: Re: DOOR AJAR LIGHT
The thread on the door ajar light problem ran a few weeks ago,
and I think it did not run to completion.
Mike Substelny reported his light would come on when certain other
events happened. He also reported that he had pulled the #12 fuse.
If you pull your #12 fuse, the door ajar light will come on
sporadically. Why? Back feed from another electrical circuit,
probably the circuit controlled by the #5 fuse. You would think
the diodes in the #12 circuit would prevent the light from coming on,
but they don't.
THe engineers who designed the circuitry in the D never expected
anyone to pull the #12 fuse for any length of time.
Aldo Buono, President
De Lorean Midatlantic
VIN 1440
DOC #14
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 01:46:57 -0700 From: "lseiler(AT)radiance.com" <lseiler(AT)radiance.com> Subject: DML: Up-Date
Up-Date:
For those on the DML and the List of 100, The latest DMC Limited edition Model Kit "up-Date" will be posted on Wednesday evening. You can find the Up-date posted on the DMC Message Board at:
http://www.totalimmersion.com/dmcboard/
You may also like the new x-ray view...(not a see through drawing) of a DeLorean. It has the body, wheels, engine (including pistons), and manual transmission. This project is part of the limited edition and grows in complexity as the kit develops.
http://www.totalimmersion.com/HotDMC.html
You may find the continued National Geographic Magazine special Delorean Issue interesting. Added to the 1981 cover and the DMC road sign are two pages featuring DeLoreans in a very unlikely place. You can find these two subjects at:
http://www.totalimmersion.com/ng1.html
If you are waiting for DMC Keys please go to the DMC Message Board and look for the Keys thread.
Thanks
Lee 81DMC-12
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 07:57:11 -0400 From: David Sontos <sontos(AT)ibm.net> Subject: DML: Auto Trans not shifting
Re: Auto Trans not shifting
Not having received any response back from the DMC, I purchased a 10MFD (AT) 35WVDC from Radio Shack for the electrolitic capacitor I could only partillay read of --0/10 and a 4.7MFD (AT) 35V for the other capacitor (4.7/16). I replaced the capacitors and put the governor back in the car and it still does not shift. The light stays on for the solenoids. Mark Hersey's posting says that the transisters may be bad. How does one test transsisters or is it just replace and hope deal. Or maybe the 10 MFD is not the right value. Any help is appreciated here.
Dave VIN 2573
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 01:59:17 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Service Facilities
Bill, We are a DeLorean ONLY repair facility in Atlanta, GA. We are members of the DeLorean Owners Assn. and are listed on their world wide directory. We are also members of the Southeastern DeLorean Owners Club and have been servicing D's since 1984. You can also find several technical articles written by, yours truly, in DeLorean World. If you would like to speak to me "live" call me anytime at 770 631-4800. Joe/DeLorean Services
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 02:05:34 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Shipping by Sea
Ian, You already have all the protection you need, rust and corrosion proof 304 grade stainless steel, I would be more concerned about the under body fasteners and frame, those items do rust and corrode. Joe/DeLorean Services
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:51:15 -0400 From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org> Subject: Re: DML: Seat Covers and Leather Protectant
SEAT COVERS Point of interest: Some very nice, new, leather DeLorean seat covers are available for a reasonable price at www.dmcnews.com
List member Jack Stiefel has these seat covers, and they look so perfect that he won an award at Cincinnati with them. You really cannot tell them from the originals.
LEATHER PROTECTANT One of our local DCO members, Dana Kalchoff, still has the original leather seat covers on his car and they look BRAND NEW! A few weeks ago I looked at his seat covers very closely and I would have sworn they were fresh from the factory, even though Dana has owned his DeLorean since new in '83 and drives it frequently.
Naturally I asked Dana to tell me his secret. He said that for the past fifteen years he has protected his seats with the original DMC factory leather protectant. Assuming he wasn't BSing me, this stuff really did a marvelous job for him. He stocked up on it at the warehouse in Columbus a few years ago becuase he plans to use the same product forever. The last I saw there was still a supply available from DMC Houston.
Does anyone know what magic ingredient the DeLorean Motorcars Company put in their leather protectant product? I go to lots of classic car shows, and based on Dana's car as a field test, the DMC stuff is the best protectant I have ever seen.
- - Mike Substelny
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 09:11:50 -0400 From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org> Subject: DML: Door Light Diodes
Aldo Buono said: > If you pull your #12 fuse, the door ajar light will come on > sporadically. Why? Back feed from another electrical circuit, > probably the circuit controlled by the #5 fuse. You would think > the diodes in the #12 circuit would prevent the light from coming > on, but they don't. > > The engineers who designed the circuitry in the D never expected > anyone to pull the #12 fuse for any length of time.
Previously, Ken Montgomery had said: > I had this happen too. It was the diodes in the light circuit. > They can be found in the wiring harness just under the dash > by the drivers right leg. They're 2 black items with connectors > on each end.
I am becoming convinced that I, and many other DeLorean owners, have burned out the diodes in our door circuits. This might be due to removing the #12 fuse for long periods, since it is common practice to pull the fuse when leaving doors up at a car show. Bad diodes that leave the marker lights on might account for a lot of dead DeLorean batteries!
I would like to check my diodes this weekend. Ken gave a good description, but could someone help out by posting the color of the wires to these diodes?
Has anyone found a good, permanent solution? Sturdier diodes, perhaps? A kill switch for the marker lights only?
- - Mike Substelny
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 10:46:50 -0700 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
On 8/4/98 6:12 AM, Mike Substelny shared these fine thoughts...
>I am becoming convinced that I, and many other DeLorean owners, have >burned out the diodes in our door circuits. This might be due to removing >the #12 fuse for long periods, since it is common practice to pull the fuse >when leaving doors up at a car show. Bad diodes that leave the marker >lights on might account for a lot of dead DeLorean batteries!
Is pulling the fuse really that common? When at shows, if I am leaving the doors open for more than 3-4 hours, I will manually turn off the dome lights and pull the wires at the back of the door switches. One of the local owners here has taken a short length (about 5 inches) of fuel line hose and has it wedged between the striker pin and door switch.
James Espey Nearly 400 Back Issues of the DeLorean Mailing List Instantly Searchable! http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:05:29 -0400 From: Cirillo Ronald A NUWCDIVNPT <CirilloRA(AT)code80.npt.nuwc.navy.mil> Subject: DML: RE: Auto Trans not shifting
Dave,
Transistors can be tested easily but necessarily accurately with an ohm meter. To make sure there is no feed back in the measurement they should be out of the circuit. You must identify B (base) C (collector) and E (emitter). First place the leads of the ohm meter across the C and E leads. There should be no movement of the ohm meter no mater which lead is connected to the C or E. You have try it both ways. Next do the same between B and E. The meter will show a reading in only one direction. Next do the same for B and C. The meter again will show a reading in only one direction. If the above passes then the transistors are most likely good. The only sure way to test is with a Beta tester or curve tracer. If you need any additional information e-mail me directly.
Ron
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:16:29 EDT From: KKoncelik(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
For those of you at the Cincinnati DeLorean Car Show that wanted to leave your doors up but couldn't I would like to suggest you invest in those battery saving kill switches that go right on the battery terminal. It will help you at shows so you do not worry that the car won't start later. This was a problem considering we displayed the cars for quite a long time. There will be more oportunities to show the cars in Cleveland so its my suggestion to look at these switches. They are about $12.00 down here but well worth the peace of mind. There is also no drilling or additional wiring needed. Sorry I got side tracked from the diode thing but this memo reminded me of it. See you all in 2000
Ken
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 11:22:45 -0700 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: Playboy JZD Interview Article
A lot of people were interested in the Playboy magazine JZD interview that I offered over the weekend. I made som ecopies of the article for those that missed out and have a couple extra photocopies of the 10 page article. Send me a dollar bill for postage and hassle and I will mail you a copy, too.
DMC-News P.O. Box 4833 Mesa, AZ 85211-4833
Thanks!
James
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 11:31:10 -0700 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
On 8/4/98 11:17 AM, Ken Koncelik shared these fine thoughts...
>doors up but couldn't I would like to suggest you invest in those battery >saving kill switches that go right on the battery terminal. It will help you
The downside of a battery cutoff/kill switch is you have to reset your clock and stereo presets. A small inconvenience compared to not having your car start, but still not an ideal solution, IMO...
James Espey Nearly 400 Back Issues of the DeLorean Mailing List Instantly Searchable! http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
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End of dmcnews-digest V3 #395 *****************************
Postings to the DELOREAN MAILING LIST are the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of the list moderator (James Espey) or his Internet Service Provider(s). The list moderator makes every effort to screen out false, misleading, and negative postings, but it is up to you, the reader of the DELOREAN MAILING LIST, to realize that nothing should be taken as actual fact without research and investigation of your own.
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