Sunday, August 16 1998 Volume 03 : Number 400
In this issue:
DML: john z. delorean
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: Re: Power windows
Re: DML: Louvres Materials
DML: Re:Auto Trans Not Shifting
Re: DML: New owner
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: Re: New owner
DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
DML: cheap stainless polish alternative
Re: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
Re: DML:a quick question
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: SS Braided Brake Lines
DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
Re: DML: Re: Power windows
DML: 4speed delorean??
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: Mailing list anniversary
DML: Struts, Spotted D, & Thesis.
DML: Air & Oil Filters
DML: DMC parts for sale
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: code
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 20:54:57 -0700 (PDT) From: michael bergeron <foxmulder241@yahoo.com> Subject: DML: john z. delorean
is the john z. delorean mentioned in the movie the people vs. larry flint the same one who invented the car.
mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 00:27:13 -0400 From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman.4@osu.edu> Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
> This may sound like a pipe dream, but I assure you that as a certified > welder, there is no such thing as an un-repairable "steel" object. The > only > question is how much needs to be replaced or fixed. I have seen many > articles about seporating the frame and the body. If this is as easy as > the > articles suggest, then doing the repair of the frame it's self is a very > easy proposition... > Lee
Reply:
I have a question for you Lee...I restored a '65 Mustang a few years
back,
and it needed some major frame repair. The body shop I went to for
advice,
which specializes in Mustangs, said that I should not chance welding the
cowl
section by myself without super tight measuring gear and years of welding
experience, which I do not have. On the Mustang's unibody, the cowl
section
is a big part of the frame, so instead of repairing it I went out and
bought a
solid unibody and put my parts on it. My question therefore is: On a
DeLorean
when does it become easier to replace the frame than it does to repair it
if
you have to do similar nanometer (exaggerating) type calculations to make
sure
everything fits right. Obviously the DeLorean doesn't have a unibody
frame,
but I'd imagine that there are probably a few places that need to be spot
on
or the car won't go back together properly.
Pehaps you or Joe or somebody would know where those places are, so we
would know what to look for when buying a DeLorean. Thanks for any input,
-Josh
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:48:48 +0000 From: kenm@compctr.ccs.csus.edu Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
At 12:40 AM 8/12/98 EDT, you wrote: >Nick ,if your frame is that bad,it may not be worth repairing the >rusted frame,it is not very hard to replace the frame on a >delorean,and well worth > >replacing, ..................
On this subject, I have lookd through the back issues of the DML but I was unable to locate any info on the frame coating material. I need to buy a small amount (pint?) of it to re-coat the area just under the motor. I know the info is in the DML, I just seem to be too lame to use the search engine properly.
Ken Montgomery #10911
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:48:48 +0000 From: kenm@compctr.ccs.csus.edu Subject: Re: DML: Re: Power windows
> I wish the answer was as easy as your question. There are no relays for > the > window regulators (motors), your problem is either dirty contacts at the > center console switches or a broken drive cable or stripped drive gear. > Pull the switch covers off each switch and spray the interior with contact > spray, available at Radio Shack. If this does not correct the problem you > will have to replace your window regulators. > Here is some additional info.. The original window regulators had several > design flaws which are not repairable. Fortunately the after market heavy > duty replacements available from the major DeLorean parts suppliers are > far > superior and once installed should not have to be replaced. Replacement of > these components should be left to a qualified DeLorean specialist. > Joe/DeLorean Services
What if the window works, but just very slowly. Is there a way to beef up the stock window device BEFORE the gears get stripped? This is my next project after I finish with the headliners. I'd almost rather not tackle it since it's so close to the DOA expo but I'll have one VERY unhappy passenger if I can't make the window work.
Ken Montgomery #10911
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:02:45 EDT From: KKoncelik@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Louvres Materials
In a message dated 98-08-13 02:23:28 EDT, you write:
<< OLopez1 >> To repair it you need a high strength adhesive. a two part epoxy with 5,000 psi shear strength is a good bet. Also reinforce it with wire or fiber mesh and blend it in. I've repaired mine a few times and it has never broken in the same place after the repair. when you are ready to repair it let me know and I'll give you the epoxy number and where to get it if you can't find it locally
ken
------------------------------
Date: 13 Aug 1998 07:26:01 -0500 From: Dave.Sontos@cooperauto.com Subject: DML: Re:Auto Trans Not Shifting
It works.
Much thanks to Mark Hersey who I had on the phone this past weekend walking me through the different problem areas to look at on the printed circuit boards on the computer governor. Turns out all it was, was a bad connection and two bad capacitors. Total cost $1.50 plus two hours of soldering and cleaning the boards. (and several mosquito bites)
Since I removed the boards from the governor and attached a long extension cord I still need to re-mount the boards in a Radio Shack project box and mount that somewhere in the engine compartment.
Thanks again Mark,
Dave Sontos
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:12:06 -0400 From: Marc A Levy <malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com> Subject: Re: DML: New owner
William M. Kwan wrote: > > As a new owner of a DeLorean, I would appreciate any advice on mechanica=
<SNIP>
Most if not all of this information can be found in the back issues. There is a really good search engine, you should try it out.
I use PJ Grady for most of my parts, and use DMC Houston as a alternate.
When changing the door struts, it may be necessary to adjust the torsion bar. This should be done by a experienced mechanic.
I use Prestone Coolant, no problems.
Marc
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 08:16:48 -0500 From: scottmueller@zebra.net (Scott Mueller) Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
kenm@compctr.ccs.csus.edu wrote: > > At 12:40 AM 8/12/98 EDT, you wrote: > >Nick ,if your frame is that bad,it may not be worth repairing the > >rusted frame,it is not very hard to replace the frame on a > >delorean,and well worth > > >replacing, .................. > > On this subject, I have lookd through the back issues of the DML but > I was unable to locate any info on the frame coating material. I need > to buy a small amount (pint?) of it to re-coat the area just under > the motor. I know the info is in the DML, I just seem to be too lame > to use the search engine properly. > > Ken Montgomery #10911
Ken, There are boxes full of small cans of the epoxy in the warehouse, give DMC Houston a call.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:34:23 -0500 From: "Paul Hamer" <phamer@genesisnet.net> Subject: DML: Re: New owner
One tip in replacing the door strut, remember that the door weighs almost 100lbs and should be well supported or braced or held by another person. The first time I changed one I didn't consider this factor. Imagine my surprise.
There are many good sources like PJ Grady or DMC for the strut. Comes out easily by removing the strange little clip at both ends. A 5 minute job.
Paul Hamer 20913
- -----Original Message----- From: William M. Kwan <BillKwan@compuserve.com> To: DMC NEWS <dmcnews@world.std.com> Date: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 9:35 PM Subject: DML: New owner
>As a new owner of a DeLorean, I would appreciate any advice on mechanical >maintenance on the car. The strut on the passenger door seems to be weak= >and I would like to replace that. If anyone can give me some idea on where >to obtain replacement parts e.g. struts for the doors, struts for the >engine compartment etc. >Also I like advice on how to drain and refill the coolant - what type to >use since it is an auminum engine. > >Thanks >Bill Kwan
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:14:17 -0500 From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
> > For you that are interested in Gullwing doors on cars check out this web Sender: dmcnews@world.std.com Precedence: list Reply-To: dmcnews@world.std.com
> site! http://members.xoom.com/lplplplaae/
This is really a nice web sight with several photos amoung which is the Isdera Imperator 108i which John DeLorean was interested in producing and was mentioned in past NEWSLETTERS as a possible succesor to the original DeLorean.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:28:43 -0700 From: "Dennis Chang" <dennis@myriad-solutions.com> Subject: DML: cheap stainless polish alternative
A buddy of mine that used to design and build proto- types of stainless steel barbecue grills suggested that I use what he uses: lemon oil.
You can buy it in bulk at almost any hardware store and it's much cheaper than any commercial polish.
I have tried it on some stainless parts before but never on a DeLorean (I don't own one yet, and I doubt a DeLorean owner would respond well to my sneaking up to their parked car with a can of lemon oil in the middle of the night...)
Dennis.
>Ask 10 DeLorean owners this question and you'll get 10 different answers. >I wash the car normally, then apply a 3M Stainless Steel Polish. It's in >an aerosol can, just spray on an wipe off (with the grain!!).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 12:48:00 +0100 From: Pete.J.Smith@ps.net Subject: Re: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
I'd like the Commandatore 112i :-) If you want to see all sorts of
different cars some new some old (including the DeLorean and the
Isdera) check out:
http://www.supercars.net/index.htm
Pete
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors Author: delornut@postoffice.worldnet.att.net%ussmtp at ccx400uk Date: 13/08/98 17:38
>
> For you that are interested in Gullwing doors on cars check out this
web
> site! http://members.xoom.com/lplplplaae/
This is really a nice web sight with several photos amoung which is the
Isdera Imperator 108i which John DeLorean was interested in producing and
was mentioned in past NEWSLETTERS as a possible succesor to the original
DeLorean.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:49:50 -0700 From: "lseiler@radiance.com" <lseiler@radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML:a quick question
At 09:28 PM 8/12/98 -0500, you wrote: >Hi all > >I've been researching DeLoreans for quite some time and I am planning to buy >one when the fund become available. One question that I have though, >concerns the actual company itself. The DeLorean seems to have been a very >popular car and probably would have become quite reliable had it been given >the time to evolve. Why didn't any other business-type people try to >restart the company? I've heard that the stamping dies for the parts had >been destroyed, but if there are still engineering drawings of the parts, >then new dies (and cars) could be produced. Just curious... > >James DeBroeck >no car yet. > reply:
I will address the "have become quite reliable" issue.
It's my belief that reading the DML is miss leading as to how reliable the DeLorean is. The delorean is in fact very reliable as a vehicle, and compared with other sport coupe's it both less expensive and at least as dependable as any other sports coupe'. The reason you see so much about the problems here is this is where we owners have a support network, which we use to help one another with the occasional problems. If you were to go back threw the historical data base you would find that like all machines the DeLorean has some weak areas that habitually fail. As new members come on to the DML they all have the same problems, and the same solutions continue to be used to take care of these problems. I would suggest that most current owners who have had a DeLorean for 18 MO to 2 years and are repairing and replacing weak parts is for the most part driving with no hesitation their DeLoreans.
Lee
BTW this is where we play with out toys for big boys!
err and gals too.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:59:00 -0700 From: "lseiler@radiance.com" <lseiler@radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
At 12:27 AM 8/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
> I have a question for you Lee.. >
Reply:
My answer is that welding is a very simple art that consist of joining two bits of metal by melting the edges and allowing the two liquid parts to mix and cool. It's true that for some it may take years to learn this skill others pick it up from books or training.
The tools are few and simple to understand and use.
That said, to address your specific question, yes many parts may need to be dead on, for this you may end up making a jig to hold the parts in the correct alignment. hear again it's a matter of common sense as much as art know how. If you want to weld something you can rent the equipment and buy the rod.
For general rusty spots the solution is quite simple, grind out the rust and using filler rod, fill in the ground out spot, regrind the new metal until it is the same as the original shape. To replace a major component, say for instance Top Wishbone mounting bracket, you would need a piece from a salvaged frame, clamps, the frame measurement specs Page R:01:03 Delorean manual, grinder cutting tips and welding tips or ARC set plus welding rod. The old part is cut off at a diagonal in good metal, the coating ground back 1/4th inch/ the new part is cut to match and ground back to allow 1/8th inch gap. The new part is clamped into position and adjusted until the critical measurements agree with the manual. The two parts are spotted, checked for alignment then and interrupted bead is lay down on one side, ground and beaded on the reverse side, checked for alignments again, the n fill rod used to dress the weld. once cooled it would be wire brushed and checked for pinholes. cleaned and coated in what ever manor desired. Now it's ready to be used.
You see just 14 lines of text covers the whole project!....Wink<
Lee
BTW if you want my ASW certificate number send me private e-mail....
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Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 20:57:32 EDT From: CBL302@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
I would have to say,Remove the bad epoxy fom the frame,if possible grind down the rusty area,then use POR (pour over rust)this stuff,when hardened IS BETTER than the factory epoxy,I have tried it,and I highly recommend it,if anybody is going to drive their Deloreans in the northern winters,IT WILL save your frame from rusting,but only in the areas that you applied POR.Try it and you will be a believer.
CBL302 vin570
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Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 22:03:22 EDT From: WINGD2@aol.com Subject: DML: SS Braided Brake Lines
Over the past month I've recieved a few inquiries from list members about weather I could get some more sets of Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines made for the Delorean. I worked with a friend, who is the senior engineer for Goodridge Co in Europe. His company is the leading supplier of OEM hoses for the Europen auto industry. The "set" we developed is a 4 line kit which replaces the stock rubber brake hoses on the car with SS braided brake lines made specifically for the Delorean. These lines have a clear plastic coating to resist abrasion and have the CORRECT metric end fittings for proper installition. These lines are USA - DOT and Europen - TUV approved for highway use.
Back after we developed this "set", I was able to get a "custom run" of about a dozen sets made. These sets have gone to many list members for their cars. Cost for a set was $120. After speaking with my friend receintly, he has agreed to do another "custom run" of about a dozen sets again. Anyone who is interested should e-mail me directly. Cost will stay at $120 set.
I have run these lines on my car for the last 2 years and am very happy with their performance. They do much the same thing the braided clutch line does, they eliminate the "balooning" effect of the stock rubber lines and impart a firmer feel in the system. My car has even seen limited track time, and the firmness becomes even more appearent under these conditions. I'm also interested in comments, good and bad, from some of the list members who are running these lines. Let me, and others on the list, know what you think.
Thanks, Marty Maier
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 22:06:45 EDT From: WINGD2@aol.com Subject: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Another project which has finally reached completion is the production of the 140 MPH face for the Delorean speedometer. This face is a vinyl overlay decal which goes over the existing speedo face. The finished product is a reproduction version of the very rare, original factory 140 MPH speedo. The outer scale is 0 - 140 mph in white and the inner scale is 0 - 210 kmh in blue.
Step by step instructions for the installation are included. Note; after the new face is installed the speedo will require re-calibration. This service is avaliable at speedo repair shops and should cost about $30-40. All other parts of the speedo system remain stock.
Cost for the 140 MPH face decal and instructions is $20 (including shipping)
If interested, e-mail me at: winged2@aol.com
or send check to : Marty Maier
704 Valley Drive
East Alton, ILL 62024
include your mailing address
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 01:47:37 -0500 From: DMC-FLUX <dmc-flux@geocities.com> Subject: Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
Hello Steve,
Tuesday, 11 August 98, you wrote:
sb> Spotted a clean 82? Delorean with NY plates in Owego NY. Just curious sb> who you are.
sb> steve brodsky #10688
I am not sure who that is but I moved up to the Watertown area. In fact my car is up here now. It has Ohio Plates though and is an 81. Anyone else up in this neck of the woods???
Best regards, Dmc-flux mailto:dmc-flux@geocities.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 02:51:08 EDT From: CDIUSAMPS@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Very interested in 140 MPH speedo face. Can you scan one for show and tell before purchase? BILL
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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 02:27:34 -0000 From: James Espey <espey@dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
The 140MPH speedo and install process will be featured in the next zine due out September 1, 1998. Several of them were sold at the Cincinnati event, so perhaps someone will share their experiences with the list beforehand?
James Espey Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:09:54 EDT From: CBL302@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
Lee,that is fine and dandy for a frame that has minor rust,But here we are talking a very flammable oil based fiberglass body,rubber hoses stuck in the side of the frame,plastic gas tank,ect,and who knows where in the box section,there might be major hidden rust,like I said in the case of a MAJOR frame rust,as in Nicks Delorean,his best bet IS to remove the body from the frame,for safety sake and either replace the frame,or with the body off,he could easily check and repair his bad frame.
CBL302 vin570
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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:22:51 EDT From: Klutch89@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
I remember a few days ago, on some remote section of the net, I saw a DeLorean for sale from Owego NY... maybe the same person? Could be...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:14:06 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@att.net> Subject: Re: DML: Re: Power windows
Ken, Here is the problem, there is a plastic coupling that holds the cable assembly together, this part has an 85% failure rate, if it hasn't broken while in the door it will break when you try to remove it or repair it. Unfortunately there is no efficient upgrade of the original regulators. As a side note the updated replacements are all steel, with a larger motor and beefier gear assembly. Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 01:12:32 -0700 (PDT) From: illyana delorean <illyanadmc@yahoo.com> Subject: DML: 4speed delorean??
hey! i was looking at the new "old car trader" mag today at borders, and there was an ad for a delorean. but this one was "special." this delorean was a rare 4speed. when was this made? ive never heard of a 4speed delorean. or was this guy just being asinine?
<-illyana->
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 03:46:06 -0700 From: "lseiler@radiance.com" <lseiler@radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
At 11:09 AM 8/14/98 EDT, you wrote: >Lee,that is fine and dandy for a frame that has minor rust,But here we are >talking >a very flammable oil based fiberglass body,rubber hoses stuck in the side >of >the >frame,plastic gas tank,ect,and who knows where in the box section,there >might >be major hidden rust,like I said in the case of a MAJOR frame rust,as in >Nicks >Delorean,his best bet IS to remove the body from the frame,for safety >sake and >either replace the frame,or with the body off,he could easily check and >repair >his >bad frame. > >CBL302 >vin570 > reply:
I prefer using names, mine is Lee, CBL302 feels remote........
In any case, Depending on the circumstances welding repairs can be made to most any thing any time, even half full fuel tanks. That said Let me take a step back and repeat what I pointed out before: Welding as a repair method is easy and safe, and for some plain fun. There is no mystery or magic to welding and when it comes to the types of steel used in car frames, it is very common to grind down or cut off damaged, rusted or defective parts and weld new parts or add metal.
It goes with out saying that major work should be on a bear frame, with all the rubber removed, all plastic clips, wires what ever. Even the powder coatings often used should be ground or burned off. Most people do not realize that steel is made up of metal crystals that lock together, these crystals become liquid when heated. So when you weld you simply liquify the metal and let it flow together. Weak welds are easy to see and fix, which is why I have made the comments I have.
For minor rust I would say just clean off and seal, paint, coat what ever. For major stuff Removing the frame from the under-body may be the best way to attack the problem. It's all a matter of common sense.
Lee
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 12:41:48 PDT From: "De Miller" <demillerkansas@hotmail.com> Subject: DML: Mailing list anniversary
Hi everyone!
Just a "short" note to let everyone know an interesting tidbit I
picked up...Today is the 3rd anniversary of this mailing list! That may
be old news to everyone else, but I'm relatively new to the list
(although I'm on my second Delorean) and I found out by accident while
talking with our congenial (and hard-working) moderator, James Espey. He
has been doing this list for all of us for three years! Wow.
And (dah) I just "discovered" the DMC-New "zine" at www.dmcnews.com
and another WOW!. I downloaded it right before I was supposed to leave
for work this morning and was late to work cause I read every word as it
was printing out!. If you haven't done so, I recommend you take a look
at both issues. Of course, the download was black and white, so later
tonight I'm going to view it on the computer screen to get the full
effect of all the great color photos in the "zine".
Finally, I hope I'm not out of line to suggest that we all buy
something from Mr. Espey's list of items for sale. Not only does he (and
probably others) do hours and hours of work to provide us with this
list, the "zine", the search engine (which is also great and I've used
it about a dozen times since I've been on the list), and other great
things on dmcnews.com, but these great services to us Deloreaners is
FREE! I feel very sure it is not FREE to Mr. Espey and if we all buy
some of his goods, posters, a tie, etc., (that is if he doesn't price
them at cost)it might help defray the costs associated with producing
this great web site.
I personally think we'd feel good just sending him a couple bucks.
Anyone who regularly uses just this list has picked up countless tips
that have no doubt saved lots of dough, so it should be worth a couple
bucks! (PS- I know some of you have already done just that, too.) I'm
sure Mr. Espey has said thanks, but I'd like to say thanks also if it
has helped keep this list going. Sorry about the "shortness" of this
note. I'll try to keep other postings shorter. (I'm a writer, by trade,
though and it's hard to.....STOP ALREADY!) De Miller, Kansas City.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 14:14:57 -0700 From: "Robert A. Rooney" <DMCVegas@ix.netcom.com> Subject: DML: Struts, Spotted D, & Thesis.
As for all of the questions about after market shocks, there is a good description of some that will fit the De Lorean on Phoenix's Web page at:
http://members.tripod.com/~Phoenix007/project.html
It has some REALLY good tips & links for upgrades!
On thursday I spotted a D in the parking lot of the "Crazy Horse Too" Pretty sure it was an '81 w/a gas flap & by the licence plate the owner registered in sometime between '95-'96.
I also found a thesis written about JZD by a college student at the University of Chicago. It gives a little more detail than I've found in most books about his carrer at Packard. Talks about his rise inside of GM, and explaines how others can do the same. Just some bussiness reading for those interested at:
http://gsb-www.uchicago.edu/curric/courses/b399/OCHAB.TXT
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Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 23:39:38 -0700 From: Matt Peak <mpeak@ucla.edu> Subject: DML: Air & Oil Filters
This week I installed the K&N air filter which Dave Price mentioned on the list a couple of issues ago. The filter cost $35, should last forever, is a little bit smaller in size than the stock filter, but fits in the air box fine without any leaks. Dave mentioned that he did not notice any difference after installing the filter, but I do. It's subtle, not the difference between night and day, but it is noticeable. After removing the old paper filter, I noticed that my intake manifold was moderately dirty, which concerns me. Isn't the filter (which was only on the car for 3K miles) supposed to stop all that dirt from making its way into the engine? I used throttle body cleaner and soaked the heck out of the manifold interior to rinse all the crud off, but I think it's wise to periodically check in there to make sure the filter is doing its job.
Another product which I would like to mention is a synthetic oil filter called "Harddriver." I saw an ad for them in Road & Track and decided to look at their website. The company makes alot of claims about the filter, and I asked around to find out if they were true or not. Not many of the people I talked with were familar with the filter, but said that at least you aren't going to be any worse off than a standard paper filter. It looks like the main advantage of this filter over a standard paper filter is its ability to filter oil at higher PSIs (achieved at higher RPMs) rather than channeling the oil through the bypass valve like paper filters can do at high RPMs. It also appears that it filters the oil better and can go for longer intervals between filter changes. If the filter does all that is says, it is truly the best oil filter to put on the Delorean (or any car). Summit Racing sells these filters and you can also buy them at the Harddriver internet site (http://www.harddriver.com/) for $8.50 + S&H ($12.45 total), which is what I did. The model that fits the Delorean is HD07.
Matt Peak
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 10:21:53 -0500 From: "Paul Hamer" <phamer@genesisnet.net> Subject: DML: DMC parts for sale
The DMC parts, books, poster, video, etc. that I listed last week have = all been sold to one person. I would like to thank everyone for their = participation and bids. I wasn't ready for such an overwhelming = response.
Paul Hamer
(Moderators note: Never underestimate the power of the DML!)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 19:44:09 EDT From: CBL302@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
Lee,Sorry about That the name here is Claude.And you are right about the welding if you do that for a living,but for people who don't do welding for a living,and want to tackle major rust,it is far easier to remove the body,than have to rebuild your house,because it burnt along with the car.
Claude 570
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 20:37:05 EDT From: JSteuben@aol.com Subject: DML: code
Hi all,
I was playing around with my D today and discovered yellow paint markers on the rear springs and red makers on the fronts. Does anyone out there know what they stand for? My car was lowered by the previous owner, but I don't know if the springs were cut or replaced. Any thoughts? Thanks, Joe Vin #1273
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End of dmcnews-digest V3 #400 *****************************
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