Thursday, December 3 1998 Volume 03 : Number 448
In this issue:
DML: Battery for key?
DML: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Re: DML: Fuel Tank Pressure (was gas fume smell)
DML: 15 mph collision
DML: Northern Cali D 4 Sale
Re: DML:Fluids
DML: Harada Antenna
DML: Back pressure
DML: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
DML: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Re: DML: Battery for key?
DML: Fuel Odors
DML: cover
Re: DML: Harada Antenna
DML: Re: 15 mph collision
Re: DML: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Re: DML: Battery for key?
DML: Exhaust Modifications
DML: specs
Re: DML: Back pressure
Re: DML: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
DML: "It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad, DeLorean World"
DML: Re: cover
DML: Re: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
DML: Re: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
DML: Ohio Emissions & Collector License Plates
DML: Re: K&N Filter part number (was: Exhaust Modifications)
DML: Fuel Sending Unit
DML: Holiday Cards to JZD
DML: delorean die cast
Re: DML: Fuel Tank Pressure (was gas fume smell)
DML: SPOILER?
DML: RE: won't start
DML: Door Skins
Re: DML: cover
Re: DML: Back pressure
DML: re: Fuel Filter Replacement
DML: Just got my Hemmings Motor News
Re: DML: Holiday Cards to JZD
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Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 19:54:28 PST From: "Adam Michael" <amichael10(AT)hotmail.com> Subject: DML: Battery for key?
Does anyone know where we could get a battery for the door key with the light? We've been searching around town and can't quite find the right size battery. Please tell me this isn't another $30 item that I have to buy from DeLorean One!
Adam Michael, VIN#1428 The DeLorean Corner: http://members.tripod.com/~DeLoreanDMC/index.html
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Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 23:27:23 -0500 From: Chris Coplen <Blarness(AT)ix.netcom.com> Subject: DML: Speaking of Lambda connection...
When I had the brakes done on my D the shop noted to me that my Lambda = connection in the rear wheel well was not connected. They asked me if I = wanted it hooked back up. They told me the car should run much better = (not that it was running poorly to begin with, but..) so I agreed.
It had absolutely NO change on the performance, idle, startup, mileage, = or anything. What gives? Is there something wrong with my car? It = doesn't run any differently than when I bought it two years ago. Does = this mean it may be running substandard and I've never known it? I've = always thought the car was a little under-powered but I never thought it = ran poorly.
- -Chris #3876
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:03:29 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: DML: Fuel Tank Pressure (was gas fume smell)
Jimmy, Did you remove the fuel pump cover seal and look at the top of the fuel pump for signs of fuel in that area. This area should be bone dry. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe(AT)att.net
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:03:34 -0600 From: "Daniel McGauley" <hawkeye(AT)creativeworlds.com> Subject: DML: 15 mph collision
I thought everyone might want to see how a DeLorean handled a 15mph front-end collision that occurred today.
http://www.creativeworlds.com/facia.jpg
I was quite impressed with how well it held up, but still ticked off that my facia is messed up.
- -Daniel McGauley
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 01:14:28 EST From: Esyme(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: Northern Cali D 4 Sale
In case anyone is up here in Northern California and looking for a car to buy I recently saw a 1981 manual, black interior, $12,800 obo on a car lot (Scotland Yard) up here in San Rafael. I don't know any other specifics, but if you need a phone number of the lot or any other information you can always drop me a line.
Lorraine esyme(AT)aol.com
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:55:40 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: DML:Fluids
Joe, Fluid leaks are a result of age and not mileage. Even though an engine may have low mileage the seals dry out and shrink over the years. As you mentioned the red fluid is probably trans fluid and the black is oil. If the leaking is not excessive there should be no real concern. See if you can determine the source of the leaks and have them corrected when you can. If you need more specific information on this subject you can email me directly. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe(AT)att.net
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Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 23:12:25 -0800 From: "Sean R. Manning" <mannings(AT)premier1.net> Subject: DML: Harada Antenna
It has been posted several times that the Harada RX20 was the power antenna used when they moved it to the rear quarter panel. However, I don't recall ever seeing anyone post that they were able to buy one from somewhere other than DMC Houston. I've done some checking around but I haven't been able to determine if its even still made or not. If anyone was able to find one from a "regular" car place or stereo shop, please post. Thanks a bunch. :)
Sean Manning VIN#1932 BAKNTYM
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Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 23:10:30 -0800 From: Eric Altendorf <altevan(AT)california.com> Subject: DML: Back pressure
I honestly don't understand the physics of it, so if someone can explain, I'd appreciate it, but I've always been told that car engines do need a certain amount of exhaust back pressure to generate low-end torque.
My friend lost all his street accelleration when he put a totally trick exhaust system on his Fairlane; he had to put some of the stock components back on to increase backpressure and get his torque back and keep the car streetable.
Browse through a hot rod catalog and look at some of the really hi-flow exhaust systems. Often they include a warning like "not for street use", or, more illuminatingly, as I saw in one catalog, "Don't use this header unless you can afford to lose your low end torque".
So I guess for performance some smoothing out of the stock exhaust is in order, but if you go too far, you're going to need to run your engine at 6000+ RPM all the time to get decent performance. :)
- -e.
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 02:29:16 -0700 From: mike atkinson <mikeatk(AT)concentric.net> Subject: DML: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
Hi all,
I know this is an old subject, however the archives offered so many possibilities I just had to ask. Tonight my oldest boy and I went for a quick ride in the "BTW, thanks to all for the help in getting the starting problem resolved" D and I rolled down the drivers window. When we got home it wouldn't come back up. Nothing, no noise, no anything.
I traded the switch's out and it still wouldn't move. One of the things the archives seemed to hit on is the wire bundle in the t-top. Doe's that sound like a good place to start.
Mike Atkinson
VIN 16232
mikeatk(AT)concentric.net
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:51:24 -0800 From: "Dave Price" <davep2(AT)clipper.net> Subject: DML: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
>When I had the brakes done on my D the shop noted to me that my Lambda = >connection in the rear wheel well was not connected. They asked me if I = >wanted it hooked back up. They told me the car should run much better = >(not that it was running poorly to begin with, but..) so I agreed. > >It had absolutely NO change on the performance, idle, startup, mileage, = >or anything. What gives? Is there something wrong with my car? It = >doesn't run any differently than when I bought it two years ago. Does = >this mean it may be running substandard and I've never known it? I've = >always thought the car was a little under-powered but I never thought it = >ran poorly. >
Chris,
It's possible that your lambda system has been bypassed, and adjusted manually. I'm not sure about the specifics of the modification, but I know it includes bypassing the O2 sensor (behind the wheel), and adjusting a bolt on the engine with a long allen key.
Does anyone have better info on this procedure?
- - Dave
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Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 22:46:51 -0800 From: "Sean R. Manning" <mannings(AT)premier1.net> Subject: Re: DML: Battery for key?
Adam-->
I use the DURACELL PX625A. Its a photo/electronic battery and I found it in the electronics/camera part of a local drug store. They were about $4.75 there but I was then able to find them in the electronics/tv section of a variety store (Fred Meyers) for about $2.50. They're an exect fit but it seems that the design of the key is not that great. If the battery gets situated a certain way in the key, it gets shorted (I suspect) and will be dead within a day. So you might want to spend a little time making sure that all the copper pieces and the spring are where they should be before you drop the battery in. I'm considering tack soldering the spring to the bottom copper plate so that it won't move when the button spins from my thumb pressing it. Maybe then it will turn the light on consistantly.
At 07:54 PM 12/1/98 -0800, you wrote: >Does anyone know where we could get a battery for the door key with the >light? We've been searching around town and can't quite find the right >size battery. Please tell me this isn't another $30 item that I have to >buy from DeLorean One! > > Adam Michael, VIN#1428 >The DeLorean Corner: http://members.tripod.com/~DeLoreanDMC/index.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 05:03:06 -0700 From: scottmueller(AT)zebra.net (Scott Mueller) Subject: DML: Fuel Odors
The question of fuel odors seems to come up quit frequently. This is what I have observed with my car.
When filling the car, if I top off the tank, put as much gas in it as I can, I smell fuel. If I fill the car on the slow setting, and do not put any more in it when it first shuts off, I have minimal odors. If the fuel pump boot is not seated properly, you will get odors. What I do now is mount the fuel pump in the tank, tighten the large hose clamp very tightly, I use a 1/4" ratchet to tighten. I do not put the wires under the hose clamp. There are grooves in the pump boot for the wires, I do not use them. The boot will not tighten down enough with the wires between the clamp and the boot, plus the clamp damages the wires. I then fold the top rubber/vinyl cover over the boot and clamp. The cover seems to lay there just fine.
I have also noticed that the fuel pump itself corrodes, so I used a wire wheel to clean the fuel pump, and I cleaned the pump boot. Tighten the clamp around the pump very tightly. Fuel will seep up between the fuel pump and boot when the tank is full. Lots of odors from this source. If the boot feels sticky or you can pick pieces of the rubber off of it, you need to replace it, the "Modern Fuels are attacking the material. While you are at it, check your hoses in the tank. The old material seems to have a much shorter life because of the modern fuels. I have experienced this in California before we transferred to Alabama, I replaced the internal hoses in my tank twice in two years while living there, also had to replace all the fuel lines in my motor home. This happened when the refineries were mandated by the feds to put MTBE in the gasoline. I suspect, that it won't be to long before all of us experience this problem throughout the U.S.
I also put ignition tune up (dielectric grease) on the electrical connectors at the fuel pump and the plug to prevent corrosion.
Scott Mueller DMC/ Das Mueller Companies Mobile, AL 1981/002981 DOA-5031 DMCNEWS Contact me about the "Deep South DeLorean Owners Club" http://www.zebra.net/~scottmueller/Web%20Page/aaanothe.htm Remember April 3, 1999 - Camillia Classic Car Show in Mobile Alabama
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:22:46 EST From: JSteuben(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: cover
Hi All, Can anyone out there tell me about the spare tire cover? My car doesn't have one, and news that they exist is something of a revelation to me. Thanks, Joe vin#1273
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 98 10:29:46 -0000 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: DML: Harada Antenna
On 12/2/98 7:11 AM, Sean R. Manning shared these fine thoughts...
>It has been posted several times that the Harada RX20 was the power >antenna >used when they moved it to the rear quarter panel. However, I don't >recall >ever seeing anyone post that they were able to buy one from somewhere >other >than DMC Houston. I've done some checking around but I haven't been able >to determine if its even still made or not. If anyone was able to find >one >from a "regular" car place or stereo shop, please post. Thanks a bunch.
It's been a year or two since I got mine, but I was able to order it directly through my Pep Boys part store here in town. I also had the option of ordering it direct from Harada.
James Espey
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 11:39:44 -0700 From: scottmueller(AT)zebra.net (Scott Mueller) Subject: DML: Re: 15 mph collision
Was there any internal damage, chassis, crumple tubes, ect... Scott Mueller DMC/ Das Mueller Companies Mobile, AL 1981/002981 DOA-5031 DMCNEWS Contact me about the "Deep South DeLorean Owners Club" http://www.zebra.net/~scottmueller/Web%20Page/aaanothe.htm Remember April 3, 1999 - Camillia Classic Car Show in Mobile Alabama
- -----Original Message----- From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye(AT)creativeworlds.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 9:21 AM Subject: DML: 15 mph collision
>I thought everyone might want to see how a DeLorean handled a 15mph >front-end collision that occurred today.
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 11:45:53 -0600 From: Jordan Gary <jordang(AT)wf.quik.com> Subject: Re: DML: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
I have tried to get along without the O2 sensor. When I bought my car the O2 sensor was bad and I did not know it. The car would not accelerate under full throtle. It also had little power above 70 MPH. I adjusted the fuel mixture many times and had expert mechanics also try. I had the same results with the O2 sensor plugged in or not. It never ran right. Finally I hooked up a dwell meter to the O2 sensor system and followed the test procedures. It showed that I had a bad sensor. I bought a new one for around $50 and my troubles were finally fixed. So the moral is, your car badly needs a working O2 sensor and Lambda system.
Dave Price wrote:
> >When I had the brakes done on my D the shop noted to me that my Lambda = > >connection in the rear wheel well was not connected. They asked me if I = > >wanted it hooked back up. They told me the car should run much better = > >(not that it was running poorly to begin with, but..) so I agreed. > > > >It had absolutely NO change on the performance, idle, startup, mileage, = > >or anything. What gives? Is there something wrong with my car? It = > >doesn't run any differently than when I bought it two years ago. Does = > >this mean it may be running substandard and I've never known it? I've = > >always thought the car was a little under-powered but I never thought it = > >ran poorly. > > > > Chris, > > It's possible that your lambda system has been bypassed, and adjusted > manually. I'm not sure about the specifics of the modification, but I > know > it includes bypassing the O2 sensor (behind the wheel), and adjusting a > bolt on the engine with a long allen key. > > Does anyone have better info on this procedure? > > - Dave
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:50:17 EST From: JSteuben(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Battery for key?
Sean, Anyway that you can show us how the spring and other copper parts fit together? I've fiddled with mine, and while it seems obvious, I can't make the #(AT)$% light work. Maybe it's too easy for me to figure out? I've even replaced the lightbulb with no results. It's such a nice touch, I'd really like to get it up and running. Thanks, Joe
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:35 +0000 From: "Martin Gutkowski" <mgutkowski(AT)datastreamicv.co.uk> Subject: DML: Exhaust Modifications
Right, this was a thread a long time ago that I will now resurrect due to now having all the information.
Simon Lees-Milne of the DeLorean Owners Club UK had his car modified for greater performance, conforming to "what would have been" the Euro-spec DeLorean. We discussed what he'd had done before, but I was not in posession of all the facts at the time, and hope to redress the balance now.
The reason I have this information is that I am now officially the club internet correspondant, and Simon asked if I'd forward any interesting information available on the internet. Well, I looked through my trash folder and recovered the dmcnews digests back to no. 339, sent them to Simon, and he rang me to let me know of the detail on his car, which I posted information about a while back, but did not tell the whole story.
Simon's car (an auto) officially produces 167bhp (AT) 5600rpm in the rear wheels. This is with the following modifications:
1) Fitting of a free flowing exhaust comprising 3 seperate manifolds on each side and combined into one 2" pipe, in turn pushing through a transverse free-flowing muffler (that only just comes within UK noise specs!). 2) No Catalytic converter or Lambda sensor 3) No air flow damper box 4) Adjustment of the fuel flow through the injector regulator, speeding it up such that he now gets an 85% through flow (15% returned to tank) as opposed to the 60% stock.
There are now about 12 "British" D's with this conversion, and all easily red-line.
Simon would be happy to take questions on this conversion which is done by a firm in Nuneaton. He can be contacted by phone or fax on +44 1866 853294
If anyone does contact him, can you tell him the part number of the K&N filter which can be used in a D, he's really interested!...
Cheers,
Martin
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 10:09:47 PST From: "Nickolan McGaan" <njmcgaa(AT)hotmail.com> Subject: DML: specs
Hi, I am new to the DML, my name is Nick. Iam hoping to buy a Delorean next summer, my friend and I would like some spechs(especially wheel size, and tire size).My e-mail address is njmcgaa(AT)hotmail.
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:20:09 EST From: DMC5524(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Back pressure
On most performance engines a small amount of exhaust back pressure is required to keep the exhaust valves from slamming closed. This prevents premature wear and damage between the valve and the head. Again this theory applies to race engines and usually is only a concern when the engine is used to slow the vehicle down instead of the brakes.
MDC
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Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2135 19:50:36 -0700 From: Brock Williams <brock(AT)cotcomsol.com> Subject: Re: DML: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
I had the same problem, and for me it was the quick disconnect of the power wire onto the window motor that had come off. What happened was that the tube the window cable runs through had come off, so the power wire got hooked on the window cable, and when I put the window down, it disconnected the wire.
Brock Vin #2680
On Wed, 02 Dec 1998, you wrote: >Hi all, > >I know this is an old subject, however the archives offered so many >possibilities I just had to ask. Tonight my oldest boy and I went for a >quick ride in the "BTW, thanks to all for the help in getting the >starting problem resolved" D and I rolled down the drivers window. When >we got home it wouldn't come back up. Nothing, no noise, no anything. > >I traded the switch's out and it still wouldn't move. One of the things >the archives seemed to hit on is the wire bundle in the t-top. Doe's >that sound like a good place to start. > >Mike Atkinson > >VIN 16232 > >mikeatk(AT)concentric.net
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 09:55:13 -0500 From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org> Subject: DML: "It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad, DeLorean World"
In musing over the distribution of JZD's model kit, Lee said:
> 6. I could bury it some where and sell treasure maps with clues > to Delorean owners only.
If this is a democracy then I vote for #6. It would add another very unusual chapter to the already amazing annals of the DeLorean. It takes a special car to claim a world wide treasure hunt in its history. Play it up big enough and this treasure hunt could be mentioned by CNN, Life Magazine, My Classic Car, and The National Enquirer.
I'm picturing the movie "It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World" and I can't stop laughing.
- - Mike Substelny
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Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 01:40:35 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: cover
Joe, All DeLoreans that left the factory had a black carpet (101917) that covered the luggage compartment floor. A fiberboard backing was attached to all of the 81 model year cars but disappeared in the 82 & 83 cars. During the early years dealerships and the QAC's swapped some of these around from car to car therefore some DeLoreans have the fiberboard backing and some don't. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe(AT)att.net
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Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 01:52:00 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
Mike, NO! It is very unlikely that your window problem has anything to do with wiring harness. Your best bet is to remove the lower door panel and test the wires going to the motor with a 12V test light. If you have voltage your motor is N.G. and you'll need to replace the regulator unit. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe(AT)att.net
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Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 02:05:55 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Chris, The problem your describing is very common to the Lambda System, the fact that you see no change in performance and that you have poor acceleration tells me that your fuel enrichment circuit is not working. To test this do the following: Attach a 12V test light between ground and the pair of yellow/red wires coming from the RPM relay, start the engine, if the light does not illuminate you'll need to replace the RPM relay. If it does light do the same test between ground and the red/purple wire on the frequency valve, if the light does not illuminate you'll need to replace the Lambda relay. If you need more information you can email me directly. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe(AT)att.net
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:53:44 -0500 From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org> Subject: DML: Ohio Emissions & Collector License Plates
Bruce Benson said:
> I don't know how other states handle their licencing but in Minnesota > if the car is at least 20 years old, or is the product of a completely > defunct manufacturer like DeLorean, it is eligible for collector plate. > They are a one time purchase and the car is then exempt from > emission tests. The law is restrictive about when the car can be > driven but is enforced very loosely.
Yes, the DeLorean does qualify for collector plates in Ohio. They would save me time, money, and trouble. Even though I do drive my DeLorean almost every day (except in winter) I split my driving between five cars, so its annual mileage is within the limit of collector plates.
I am reluctant to get collector plates for three reasons:
1) I would have to give up my vanity plates.
2) The DeLorean was designed as a low emissions car, and
I actually LIKE having the government acknowledge that my
DeLorean is still functioning as intended.
3) I tell people that my DeLorean is a 'daily driver' and
collector plates would detract from that mystique.
I suppose the prudent thing would be to bite the bullet and switch to collector plates anyway. That would make fellow Ohio DMLer Ken Koncelik happy; Ken has wanted my vanity plates for years. :-)
- - Mike Substelny
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 14:34:08 EST From: JSteuben(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: Re: K&N Filter part number (was: Exhaust Modifications)
Hi Martin, Thanks for the info. The K&N filter number is 33-2002. You install it upside down from the stock one. It works great. Regards, Joe
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 12:59:32 -0800 From: Richard Lew <2evm(AT)flash.net> Subject: DML: Fuel Sending Unit
To all:
My fuel sender unit went out and checked out a replacement would cost me about $300 fron PJ Grady. Has anyone found a suitable replacement for this very expensive part or is going to after market meters the best way. I checked out some performance stores that sell fuel gauges and sending units for about $80 complete. I would have to junk the old gauge and drill a hole for the new one. Would appreciate any advise.
Thanks Richard Lew Danville, California
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 15:10:13 -0700 From: "Ace Underhill" <aceu(AT)brilliantscreen.com> Subject: DML: Holiday Cards to JZD
I think it would be nice if we all sent Holiday cards to John = Delorean. The "Santa with DMC" cards that James Espey sells are = fantastic, so you all should purchase a set and send one. Can someone = post JZD's address again for convenience? Also, don't forget to drop a = few emails this season, thanking those individuals on the list that = offer us all the great advice and repair tips so unselfishly. They = often spend their own valuable time patiently helping people with their = problems and they do this for free even though they are in the business = to get paid for it.
-Ace Underhill-
Vin: 2860
AZ Lic: 8T8 MPH
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 14:27:38 PST From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502(AT)hotmail.com> Subject: DML: delorean die cast
i would just like to thank the person who told us about the JOHNNY LIGHTNING BTTF delorean car. as of today no place in holland michigan carries them, due to me. I went out and bought them all...all two of them. anyways, thank you very much. it will look great next to the model that Lee is making for all 100 of us lucky people.
Erik
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 10:27:48 -0800 From: "lseiler(AT)radiance.com" <lseiler(AT)radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: Fuel Tank Pressure (was gas fume smell)
At 04:55 PM 12/1/98 EST, you wrote: Snip........ >I do get the gas smell everytime I put gas inn the tank, even if I do not >fill >it. How can you tell if the leakage is at the junction of the tank and >the >filler pipe? I checked underneath the spare by removing the plastic, but >I >did not see anything. > >Thanks >JimmyC reply:
Hi Jimmy,
I had the same problem when I first got my D. I fond out two things, one which has been mentioned over and over, don't over fill. The other was that the "Vent hose part - 101563" and "VLV roll-hose part - 101648" lines needed to be replaced. they looked fine but had many very small cracks around the ends where the hose clamp is. Once I removed and cleaned the fill hose and replaced the other two hoses, along with the "filler gasket part - 101567" the smell vanished. I also replaced all the hose clamps with stainless.
It's worth mentioning that even if you spill one drop of fuel any where under the hood you will smell it. I use paper towels to clean up any spillage, and leave the towels with the gas station owner to deal with.
Good Luck
Lee
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:28:57 -0800 From: Alex Krochmal <alexk(AT)spiritone.com> Subject: DML: SPOILER?
Does anyone know where or how I could get a stainless steel spoiler like the one on a Ferrari F-40? For an example of a DeLorean with this is at http://members.xoom.com/Gullwings/delorean.html ?
Thanks, Alex
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 17:48:15 +0000 From: "darryl(AT)techline.com" <darryl(AT)techline.com> Subject: DML: RE: won't start
Michael Pack said "The car went through a $14,000 service in August of this year." Michael, if I had just spent that much that recently on work including "new fuel system" I think I'd be having a chat with the person who did the work instead of asking this list for advice. I could have sold you a whole car for that price, but it doesn't run either.....
Darryl Tinnerstet Specialty Automotive 4 LaBelle Lane McCleary, WA 98557 PH: 360-495-4640 FAX: 360-495-4680
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 22:09:37 PST From: "Claude L" <delorean81(AT)hotmail.com> Subject: DML: Door Skins
Does anyone know,if anybody makes replacement fiberglass door skins,for creased delorean doors,they will be used on a painted Delorean.
Bruno
Vin#16686
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 19:56:48 -0800 From: Hank Breer <hbreer(AT)ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: DML: cover
> Can anyone out there tell me about the spare tire cover?
Joe,
Very early cars were shipped with only the carpet covering the spare tire. (Reference 8.7.2, fig 10) Later cars had a fiberboard piece placed between the spare and the carpet. My car, VIN 1141, also does not have the fiberboard cover, but most of the cars I judged at Concours did.
Neither the parts manual nor DMC Houston's parts catalogue mention it.
Hank
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Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 00:03:02 -0500 From: Paul Gress <pgress(AT)pb.net> Subject: Re: DML: Back pressure
The way I remember it is the valve timing is optomized for the specific amount of back pressure. That means is you change your exaust system for less back pressure, you have to modify your camshaft timing (may be done by offsetting it rotation) usally by purchasing a new camshaft that is tuned for less back pressure. Now for the headers, the larger the diameter of the tube, the less low end you will have, and greater high end will result. This is caused by the pulses of exaust, when the exaust is exiting past the valves and the valve suddenly closes, the exaust is still in motion and creates a vacuum behind it which will stop the exaust flow, as soon as the exaust stops it will bounce backward in direction and ram into the exaust valve. If the exaust valve opens at this time you will have a great loss of power. The time it takes for this bouncing of exaust is determined by the diameter of the exaust tube (headers). The larger the diameter, the sooner this will occur. The idea of tuning the exaust system is to time this bouncing of exaust gasses so that when the valve closes, the exaused bounces backwards, then bounces off the exaust valve in the proper exaust direction, this is when you want the exaust valve to open again and help suck out more exaust gasses more efficiently. This should be timed to occur at maximum torque RPM.
Hope this helps a little.
Paul Gress, vin # 10193
Eric Altendorf wrote:
> I honestly don't understand the physics of it, so if someone can explain, > I'd appreciate it, but I've always been told that car engines do need a > certain amount of exhaust back pressure to generate low-end torque. > > My friend lost all his street accelleration when he put a totally trick > exhaust system on his Fairlane; he had to put some of the stock components > back on to increase backpressure and get his torque back and keep the car > streetable. > > Browse through a hot rod catalog and look at some of the really hi-flow > exhaust systems. Often they include a warning like "not for street use", > or, more illuminatingly, as I saw in one catalog, "Don't use this header > unless you can afford to lose your low end torque". > > So I guess for performance some smoothing out of the stock exhaust is in > order, but if you go too far, you're going to need to run your engine at > 6000+ RPM all the time to get decent performance. :) > > -e.
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 98 20:04:29 -0600 From: David Swingle <dswingle(AT)enteract.com> Subject: DML: re: Fuel Filter Replacement
The "Senator" wrote: >Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 17:27:19 -0500 >From: Michael Pack <mpack1(AT)tiger.towson.edu>
> replaced my fuel filter with a Purolater cross reference >After I installed it I ran the car to check for leaks and then finished >up. When I tried to restart the car about 1/2 hour later, it would not >start. Any Ideas= to fix? . . . >Thanks >Michael Pack
I ran into a similar problem that I have never seen posted here. Maybe the same problem, maybe not. . . .
I replaced my filter with the proper Bosch filter from a recognized supplier. Immediately afterwards, the car would not start. After a little investigation, I realized that the inlet (maybe the outlet - it has been over a year) fitting was bottoming out into the line connection and choking off the fuel. Apparently the spec on the depth of the filter fitting has changed slightly over the years.
To fix it I cut a four grooves with a hacksaw across the face of the fitting on the filter (watch for metal filings). Problem solved. Has anyone else run into this?
Dave Swingle 81 VIN 5429 DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:35:47 -0500 From: "." <jdl(AT)interax.com> Subject: DML: Just got my Hemmings Motor News
Just got the December issue of Hemmings Motor News, for those of you = unfamiliar, a very extensive listing of just about any sort of collector = car out there. I have been looking at the DeLorean section for some = time, and think it is fairly representative of the prices for D's = (because I was in the market for one, and did purchase one this summer). = Is it just my imagination, or have the price of D's dropped. As an = owner, I want to believe otherwise, but the average list price seems to = be down from even six months ago, from maybe 16-18K to 14-16K with some = listed as low as 6-13K (and almost none listed in even the mid 20's). = Is this a seasonal thing? I as much as any of the owners of this very = interesting car want the price to go up, but the listings I see make me = wonder if we have gotten to the point where our cars will being to = appreciate.
David Levey Cleveland
PS- One of the cars listed for sale (with no price) was one of the = pre-production cars (the second off of the assembly line) FYI
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Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 02:10:07 -0500 (EST) From: William T Wilson <fluffy(AT)snurgle.org> Subject: Re: DML: Holiday Cards to JZD
On Wed, 2 Dec 1998, Ace Underhill wrote:
> I think it would be nice if we all sent Holiday cards to John = > Delorean. The "Santa with DMC" cards that James Espey sells are = > fantastic, so you all should purchase a set and send one. Can someone =
I hate to disagree on something like this for risk of sounding like a scrooge, but I'm not sure that JZD would actually want something like this. I mean, I'm sure he'd love to get cards from list members. But I don't know if he really wants a deluge of things reminding him about DMC. He didn't come out of it nearly as well as we did, after all. I mean, if I ran a business that cost me my credibility and my fortune of millions of dollars, I'd be pretty bitter about it. Wouldn't you?
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End of dmcnews-digest V3 #448 *****************************
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