Sunday, December 6 1998 Volume 03 : Number 450
In this issue:
DML: Auto transmission update...
DML: Re: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
DML: Re: RE: Fuel Odors
DML: LIST for K&N Air Filter
DML: My door and fender replacement project (long)
Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
DML: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: Door now open
DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: New rev of DeLorean parts list and database
DML: K&N Filter
DML: Repair shop list
Re: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
DML: Window sticker / JZD
Re: DML: jigowatt vs gigawatt
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Re: DML: Window sticker / JZD
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Re: DML: No Start due to fuel filter
Re: DML: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: RE: Re: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
DML: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: RE: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
DML: Re: Auto transmission update...
DML: Re: slow idle when cold.
DML: Re: Door now open
DML: Re: MIRROR SWITCH
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
DML: re: Fuel Filter
DML: Dave's trans part 6/Parts Available
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 04:05:29 -0800 From: "Dave Price" <davep2@clipper.net> Subject: DML: Auto transmission update...
OK, I dug through the back issues and found the shift solenoid diagnostic setup... The only problem is that there is no difference between 1st and Neutral (both solenoids activated), so I can't tell if the computer is at fault... (1st seems to be shifting into neutral under hard acceleration)
Someone had mentioned that instead of lights at the solenoid access point, they used a switch, and controlled the shifting manually. Could this potentially fry a (possibly) working computer? Can I disconnect the computer altogether and force the car into 1st somehow? When the computer is disconnected, the car acts like it's in 3rd (no solenoids active), and the shared positive is no longer live at the solenoid access point.
Thanks again folks!
- - Dave
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 09:07:43 -0600 From: magriese@us.ibm.com Subject: DML: Re: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
I was the guy who had problems with the wiring harness when my window stopped working. You definately want to use a test lamp to check for power at the window lift motor. A meter is not sufficient. I went into the door and checked the circuit with a meter, found 12V where it should be and concluded the motor was bad. I replaced the entire mechanism ($360 at the time) and found I still had a problem. If I had used a test lamp instead of the meter I would have known right away that the circuit for the window lift wasn't capable of carrying any current. The problem ultimately turned out to be a spade lug in one of the block connectors under the T section. It had pushed back into the plastic header when the connectors were mated at the factory and was not making adequate connection with the other half of the harness. Over time the parts oxidized and/or moved enough that there was enough of a connection to measure a voltage, but not enough to allow sufficient current to flow.
The upside of all of this was I was able to sell the original window lift mechanism for $150 so it didn't hurt as bad as it could have.
Michael A. Griese Storage Software Development Manager IBM Storage Systems Division Rochester, MN 55901 Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com voice: (507)253-1853 fax: (507)253-2880
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 05:39:29 -0700 From: scottmueller@zebra.net (Scott Mueller) Subject: DML: Re: RE: Fuel Odors
The wires went over the top of the hose clamp and under the cover. Also check and make sure that the hose clamp around the fuel return pipe is tight, all hose/pipe fittings are tight. Are you getting fuel inside the mounting boot, use a flashlight and look. Also check the fuel fill hose, the carbon canister hose, over flow hose, any connection at the tank. You have to be sytematic in your approach. Inspect the condition of the parts, if the rubber is starting to come apart, then it is time to replace it. Make sure the outside of the fuel pump is clean, I used a bench mounted wire wheel on mine.
Scott Mueller DMC/ Das Mueller Companies Mobile, AL 1981/002981 DOA-5031 DMCNEWS Contact me about the "Deep South DeLorean Owners Club" http://www.zebra.net/~scottmueller/Web%20Page/aaanothe.htm Remember April 3, 1999 - Camillia Classic Car Show in Mobile Alabama
From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1@eclipse.net>
Subject: DML: RE: Fuel Odors
>Where do you put the wires? I'm still smelling gas.
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 11:58:11 -0600 From: Gowler Don-CFPO01 <cfpo01@email.mot.com> Subject: DML: LIST for K&N Air Filter
I'll take two. Don Gowler
> ---------- > From: Jameel Ahed > Would it help if we started a list of the people who would buy one of > these DeLorean K&N filters? Maybe we could get a special run on them, > just like the ss brake lines. Maybe it would show K&N that there are > people out there that really do want a K&N for their DeLoreans. Just > a thought >
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 98 11:27:51 -0000 From: James Espey <espey@dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: My door and fender replacement project (long)
Many of you remember that my DeLorean was hit in a parking lot accident back in October. I went round and round with the other guys insurance company and finally ended up with a check for the repairs but not the transportation to what I considered a qualified repair facility.
A friend and local owner here convinced me that we could complete the repairs ourselves since we were just replacing the parts and not repairing anything. I was able to get a used door from Bryan Pearce in Chicago and have it shipped here to AZ. Bob Miller in North Carolina traded me a used fender for a spare quarter panel I had hanging on the wall in my garage for a few years.
Last Friday night, local owners and DML'ers Ace Underhill and Chris Rabalais came over to my house and we removed the old door (I had previously removed the old fender a week or so earlier). We only had to make one run to the parts house (for a 3/8" allen head socket and a BIG breaker bar for applying pressure to the torsion bar).
The door that I bought from Bryan was missing such items as interior trim, window regulator, lock solenoid and door handle, but for the most part was complete as far as all the little metal rods were in place. We laid the old door down next to it and began systematically removing parts from the damaged door and installing them in the new door. The fixed glass was in place on the replacement door, and probably the biggest pain was either attaching the outside door handle or getting the dropping glass attached to the window regulator.
We hung the new door the next night and made only very minor adjustments to the hinge bolts and torsion bar before we had a GREAT fit and very easy opening and closing. I have to say that it opened and closed better after we put the new door on and the old door did before the accident.
Note that the last sentence in the above paragraph said opened and closed - - past tense. We must've opened and closed it a dozen times and it was perfect. A few days later I took it out for a drive around the block and when I got home the door would not open AT ALL. Locks and unlocks fine, but neither the outside handle nor the inside latch will release the door latches. At least it is the passenger door. We will be getting back into it on Saturday, but I would welcome any ideas from anyone on this!!
All that is left (after resolving the opening issue) is putting on some new trim on the door and fender, adjusting the window, and replacing the interior trim.
Was it easy? Easier than I expected. I have no fear of getting in the door anymore for anything, and adjusting the torsion bars is not as big of a deal as I had expected either. It was an excellent experience and in the long run I was able to save a large sum of money.
Assuming that I do not have to send it to Houston to get the door open :)
James Espey #10570
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 14:20:38 EST From: DMC5524@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
I don't know if they still make it or not. But I believe the Testor paint company used to make a line of model paints called the Metalizer Series. One color in the series was called Stainless Steel. It came in a spray can or in a bottle pre-thinned for use in a air brush. With some practice you could achieve the brushed look with fine sand paper as the paint cured. I had pretty good success on my models but I never thought of using it on the facias. I wonder how it would look?
MDC
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:53:09 -0600 From: magriese@us.ibm.com Subject: DML: Re: Spare tire cover
Hank Breer wrote: >Very early cars were shipped with only the carpet covering the spare tire. (Reference 8.7.2, fig 10) Later cars had a fiberboard piece placed between the spare and the carpet. My car, VIN 1141, also does not have the fiberboard cover, but most of the cars I judged at Concours did.<
Hank - any indication in DOA records that indicate when the fibreboard was added? My car, #2135 does not have a fibreboard panel, but there are some velcro strips on the back of the carpet, but no evidence of velcro on the floor of the luggage compartment. I would think that if the velcro was a previous owner modification there would be some adhesive residue on the floor.
Michael A. Griese Storage Software Development Manager IBM Storage Systems Division Rochester, MN 55901 Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com voice: (507)253-1853 fax: (507)253-2880
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 98 13:35:15 -0000 From: James Espey <espey@dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: Door now open
After a few helpful emails and some cursing, the newly hung door on my DeLorean now opens again. Thanks to all who offered advice!
The rods that control the door locking mechanism were not extending far enough to completely unlock the door. I pushed on the rod and it moved enough that I was unable to then open the door normally. Looks like an adjustment is in order.
James Espey #10570 with a door from #4452
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 98 13:43:35 -0000 From: James Espey <espey@dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
I was asked via private email if I noticed any differences between the two doors.
The only thing I noticed immediately was that on the early door, the fixed glass appears to be held in only by the adhesive. On the later door, there are some metal clips pop-rivted into the door that help hold the glass in place. I have never heard of the fixed glass becoming loose on any cars, so I did not transfer the clips from the #10570 door to the #4552 door.
James Espey #10570
PS - Both doors had black magic marker on them with dates and the VIN numbers.
#4552 - September 25, 1981 #10570 - December 10, 1981
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 14:39:54 -0600 From: "Jameel Ahed" <ahed@uiuc.edu> Subject: DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
I have 2273 and I don't have the board. I also have the velcro strips.
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:24:27 -0800 From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@intel.com> Subject: DML: New rev of DeLorean parts list and database
I just uploaded a new revision of the electronic DeLorean parts list and cross reference database program to the usual place on www.dmcnews.com. This version adds simpler parts cross reference and info database maintenance by alloiwing new parts info and edits to be made right in the program rather than requiring all list maintenance to be done offline. If you keep track of the helpful parts information that is shared in the dmcnews forum, then this version may be a useful tool for you to maintain such info. For those not familiar with the program, it includes a complete copy of the DeLorean parts manual with diagrams from the original, as well as a complete searchable parts database. In addition, the program allows parts cross reference lists and price lists to be maintained and searched.
As usual, the release includes a couple cross reference lists provided courtesy of several regional DeLorean organizations. These lists countain a mountain of useful information. If you have additional data you would like me to include pre-bundled with the release, please contact me.
Finally, with the completion of my new home, please note that the DeLorean Club of Oregon now has new contact information:
DeLorean Club of Oregon 48009 SW Morel Ln. Forest Grove, OR 97116 Home: (503) 359-4856 Work: (503) 264-8419 knut.s.grimsrud@intel.com
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 20:55:15 EST From: WINGD2@aol.com Subject: DML: K&N Filter
Joe,
After reading your response about the K&N air filter, and after my past experiences with these units, I decided to review this issue. After tearing my car apart again I now understand exactly what you're doing, and I must say it is very clever. The air filter normally fits in a groove between the upper and lower half's of the air box where they snap together. The lower half of the air box is about 4 to 5 inches deep and about half way down is a step / ledge where the air box starts to transition to the inlet tube. This ledge area is smaller then the upper groove because of the taper in the air box. If you take the K&N filter unit and flip it upside down, just as you said, it will set on this ledge and fits as though it was made for it. Very neat !! My only question is how do you hold the filter in place ? When I put the air box back together my filter would rattle around somewhat loose. It's not going to fall out, but it will leak some air. Also, what did you use to seal the upper air box groove where the original filter was installed ? This is a great idea Joe, Thanks ! Marty PS: I'm still going to let my buddy at K&N play with the air box, no sense ruining his fun !
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:05:00 EST From: ABatt10347@aol.com Subject: DML: Repair shop list
Fellow Dmcer's, I organized the repair shop list about a year and a half ago. There were a few updates but it is now dated. The repair list was made for anyone going cross country to have as a guide to help if broken down in a strange place. The repair shops listed were sent to me by members who had repairs done at specfic shops and felt that they had experienced good work. Is there a need to update this list? It is a lot of work, but if enough people want me to I'll start a new list. Bruce Battles Vin # 6569
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 15:51:25 -0600 From: Jordan Gary <jordang@wf.quik.com> Subject: Re: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
Good luck on you older window. My car, vin 0794 , had the older type moving window regulator channel which holds the moving window only by glue. It is a L shaped channel which holds the window by glue. The glue came loose and gave me fits trying to get it glued back in the correct place. I bought a new type channel and was able to repair the window. The new channels are like american cars which are U shaped and hold the window by friction and perhaps some glue also. Jerry Rine told me that it is common for the glue to give out on the origional type. He always then replaces the regulator channel. They cost around $35.00.
Please note that I am talking about a different window than you were.
Of course, no one should worry about this until a moving window comes loose.
Jordan Gary
James Espey wrote:
> I was asked via private email if I noticed any differences between the > two doors. > > The only thing I noticed immediately was that on the early door, the > fixed glass appears to be held in only by the adhesive. On the later > door, there are some metal clips pop-rivted into the door that help > hold the glass in place. I have never heard of the fixed glass becoming > loose on any cars, so I did not transfer the clips from the #10570 door > to the #4552 door. > > James Espey > #10570
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 13:53:13 -0800 From: "lseiler@radiance.com" <lseiler@radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
At 03:22 AM 12/4/98 -0800, you wrote: >>If I may respectfully disagree, I was very careful to check the fit at the >>bottom of my airbox and it fit as snugly as the stocker did right side >>up. I >>was very skeptical and checked it several times to be sure that what you >>described would not happen. > >I think the big issue is the fact that the K&N air filter has some "play", >whereas the correct filter doesnt. Basically you have to keep the K&N >filter from moving around. I accomplished this by suffing a couple 1/2" >pieces of styrofoam on either side of it. I'd reccomend anyone else using >this filter to do something similar. > >- Dave > > reply:
Hi Dave,
I am unsure just what filter I have in now, it may be the K&N, I am not sure. I just went to the local auto supply place and looked up the DMC in their model vs filter type booklet and got the one recommended. It fit exactly as the original did and seams to work fine. I don't quite understand why the focus on the K&N?
Lee
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 16:23:01 -0800 From: "Dave Price" <davep2@clipper.net> Subject: Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
>I don't know if they still make it or not. But I believe the Testor paint >company used to make a line of model paints called the Metalizer Series. >One >color in the series was called Stainless Steel. It came in a spray can or >in a >bottle pre-thinned for use in a air brush. With some practice you could >achieve the brushed look with fine sand paper as the paint cured. I had >pretty >good success on my models but I never thought of using it on the facias. I >wonder how it would look? > The only problem with the paint is that is has to be flexible (as the facias bend and flex) and flexible paint tends to dry softer than regular paint (thus allowing it to flex), and probably wouldn't "brush" very well.. (Ever try to put brush marks in rubber?)... I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but finding the right paint would be tricky.
- - Dave
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 18:15:01 EST From: ABatt10347@aol.com Subject: DML: Window sticker / JZD
Fellow DMCer's, I have downloaded the window sticker before and lost it when my hard drive crashed last summer. I have tried to download it from the DML site again. I get the Adobe coming up but no sticker. Has anyone else had this problem. If not, it maybe my system, so could someone please email me a copy of the pdf file. I now have a color printer so I can do it right!
On the subject of JZD's feeling on the past, I agree with many of the previous postings. The whole thing must be a bad memory for him to have to relive everytime he gets a letter or postcard from one of us. It is sad that he doesn't realize how much he has enriched our lives. I do a lot of British car shows and the one thing I hear most is that people ( nonowners) say is "man he was way ahead of his time." Having now owned a D for a few years I marvel each and everyday on how right they are! How many other cars hold up, and still look stylish 16 + years later? I only wish that JZD got to hear the praise that I hear about the D. For myself the best tribute that I can give is to drive my D , letting it be seen by as many people as I can. Answering their questions, ( yes it does get old, but remember that we see our cars everyday, they may only see one or two in a lifetime), and to continue to "live the dream". Thank you JZD for letting us have our Walter Mitty feelings 24/7. Bruce Battles Vin# 6569
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 23:39:23 EST From: LZeitgeist@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: jigowatt vs gigawatt
In a message dated 98-12-04 00:44:05 EST, you write:
> > I have seen it in print relating to the movie as both Gigawatt and > > jigowatt. > > The correct spelling is 'gigawatt'. It is a scientific term meaning 1 > billion watts, the amount of power used by roughly ten million light > bulbs. So unless your computer is equipped with a 4 'Jigobyte' > hard disk, you should spell it properly. :)
However, the correct pronunciation of 'gigabyte' is with a hard 'g', not a 'j' sound. Therefore, even though I've always preferred the scientific spelling of 'gigawatt' for the term, does this mean that Doc Brown, a noted scientist, perhaps doesn't know what the heck he's talking about? (If *I* heard a computer tech call it a 2.5 'Jigabyte' hard drive, I'd be outta there with my armload of computer in a hurry...)
Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com ShadowPlayers Stage Combat Group Raleigh/Charlotte, NC
[Moderators note: I have killed this thread effective now for lack of DeLorean content.]
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:05:08 -0800 From: "Dave Price" <davep2@clipper.net> Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
> I am unsure just what filter I have in now, it may be the K&N, I am not >sure. I just went to the local auto supply place and looked up the DMC in >their model vs filter type booklet and got the one recommended. It fit >exactly as the original did and seams to work fine. I don't quite >understand why the focus on the K&N? > K&N claims to allow better airflow than paper filters, and catch more dirt (It's an oil-soaked cotton filter). They also don't loose effeciency as they get dirty. It's a lifetime filter, which only requires cleaning every 50K miles... It probably doesn't effect performance much, but some folks say they get as much as a 15 hp gain.... I couldn't tell any difference after I installed mine, but it's worth it to me if it catches more dirt....
- - Dave
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 21:08:32 -0800 From: "lseiler@radiance.com" <lseiler@radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: Window sticker / JZD
At 06:15 PM 12/4/98 EST, you wrote: >Fellow DMCer's,
....Snip............. On the subject of JZD's feeling on the past, I agree with many of the previous postings. The whole thing must be a bad memory for him to have to relive every time he gets a letter or postcard from one of us.
......Snip............
Thank you JZD for letting us have our Walter Mitty feelings 24/7.
Bruce Battles Vin# 6569
Reply:
I tend to agree with you Bruce, however I am happy to report that not every thing related to the DMC-12 is painful for JZD. I received a very nice Fax from JZD today accepting #001 DMC-12 Limited edition Model Kit. So JZD will be getting his kit after all.
So all the great ideas of how to dispose of his Kit will have to be put aside for now.
Lee
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 01:00:36 EST From: KayoOng@aol.com Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Has anyone tried a filter call Amsoil? I was just offering another washable and reusable air filter system. Check: http://www.amsoil.com
It works on the same principle as the K&N. It is also "washable" and rejuvenated by oiling it with their brand of filter oil. The Amsoil air filter, it fits perfectly. No need for right side up or right side down upon installation. You need no "other" materials or things to do to make it fit or to get a tight seal.
I had the Amsoil filter in my DeLorean replacing the old "stock" paper filter. I had used this Amsoil filter for the about 2 years. Not bad. Definite an increase in power. I even put back a "new" stock paper filter to compare. Major difference. The paper filter "chocks" the engine, no doubt about it. The Amsoil filter was also rated by some independent racing group and the results was posted on the Por*che (sorry can't post the name here) website as being the best all around filter. They are a finicky bunch! The Amsoil was compared with four other brands and beats it in every area of testing. I have used this Amsoil filter way before the posting of the results. The results didn't surprise me at all. I kind of expected it.
Folks remember, when it comes to an air filter, you must have a tight seal. No ambient air leaks, it doesn't matter if it is a K&N, Amsoil or any filter alike. If you have just a little open of any kind, it is like have no filter at all. A correct filter with a hole is no good either.
Make sure that any filter you fit into the housing, it must not move at all. When the engine's throttle is opened up, there is much suction. This rushing in of air is putting the filter under stress and deforming the fit in the housing thereby creating an opening for air leaks. Check to make sure that that any filter other then the standard filter doesn't move or deform under its operation. It must be supported. The filter must either be rigid or fill the whole entire housing. This will prevent movement or deformation that will create air leak.
As for a project, I have constructed my own filters out of two different type of heavy duty air condition foam filter material, metal screen mesh for strength and rigidity with a woman's nylon stockings as a "fine" pre and post filter. It is all held together by silicone glue.
This filter is tightly fitted to fill in the housing with a lip to sit against the top cover just like the original. I had used this filter for the last three month with over 5,500 miles on it.
It works! I had done testing using industrial suctioning units and blowers to simulate the same condition of air and dirt flow.
As for the car it, the interior of the intake area of the manifold is now cleaner. The dirt is now on the first layer of the nylon stocking. With the stock or the Amsoil air filters the intake manifold area and the plate was always dirty after 3,000 miles or so. This filter still has more air flowing then the stock filter and less headache and maintenance then the Amsoil.
Time for the project? One hour -- I made six reusable filter. Cost for all the materials? $25.00. Cost of nylon's? They are throw away. Every time the unit gets dirty? Change the nylon covering.
Kayo Ong #05508 Lic 9D NY
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 13:19:53 -0800 From: steve brodsky <a0017673@airmail.net> Subject: Re: DML: No Start due to fuel filter
Michael Pack wrote:
> Hello > > Your input TO MY NO START problem was remarkable. However here is a more > detailed description.
> Again I'm getting gas from the fuel filter to the fuel dist. then to the > injectors. > > I am so thankful that I can ask you all these confusing > questions and get logical answers. You all are very important to me. > > As always all of you are in my thoughts during the Holidays!!! :) > > Sincerely, > Michael Pack > "The Stranded Senator"
Check the wires going to your ballast resistor. It is located in the engine compartment on the drivers side of the fire wall. It is located in such a way that it is susceptible to the elements and the wires can carrode in the connectors. If you do not have a good clean fitting, it will behave exactly as you describe. It took me a year to trace that one down with mine.
steve brodsky #10688
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 13:25:23 -0700 From: raddad@cmn.net Subject: Re: DML: Re: Spare tire cover
My first DeLorean (#6530-late '81) came with the fiberboard spare tire cover. Then, I took my car to a west coast service center and when I picked it up, they had removed it and put it into a different car. Fortunately I had stopped to fill the car with gas just blocks away from where the service had been performed so I discovered the problem immediately. I stormed back - demanded the board - and never returned. It seems it was not uncommon for this sort of parts swapping in the very early days after DMC went belly up. Oh, BTW, that service center is no longer in business.
Needless to say, my current '83 does have the board.
Can you imagine the anecdotes about DeLorean ownership we could accumulate?
Dick Ryan VIN 16867
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:24:32 -0500 From: Chris Coplen <Blarness@ix.netcom.com> Subject: DML: RE: Re: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Great Advise! Thanks. I'll give it a try. BTW: What's an RPM relay, = and where do I find it? I have the manuals but still can't find it.
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 03:39:44 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Hay guy's, I've been off the list for a couple of days and I noticed the talk a about the K&N filter, what's the deal? Why bother using this filter if it doesn't fit. In addition to the original Bosch unit there are many other brands that fit perfectly and all cost about the same. Please educate me and tell me what is so special about the K&N filter. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 03:52:39 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
James, I have seen a couple of the early cars with this problem. I guess this is why the factory added the clips. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
- ---------- > From: James Espey <espey@dmcnews.com> > To: DMCNews <dmcnews@world.std.com> > Subject: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates > Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 8:43 AM > > I was asked via private email if I noticed any differences between the > two doors. > > The only thing I noticed immediately was that on the early door, the > fixed glass appears to be held in only by the adhesive. On the later > door, there are some metal clips pop-rivted into the door that help > hold the glass in place. I have never heard of the fixed glass becoming > loose on any cars, so I did not transfer the clips from the #10570 door > to the #4552 door.
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 04:10:06 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
Michael, Once again be aware that many cars spent time at the QAC centers for re assembly and repairs, during that time many components were passed from car to car. This would explain your carpet with Velcro strips. There is no info on VIN changeover. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 20:34:31 -0500 From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1@eclipse.net> Subject: DML: RE: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
One other difference I noticed. My 81 door has stainless steel 'guides' = where the strikers go through and connect with the latch assemblies in = the doors. They kind of guide the striker into the latch if the it is = out of adjustment (I guess). I saw two different 83's which had plastic = pieces instead of the stainless.=20
- ---------- From: DMC Joe[SMTP:DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Sunday, December 06, 1998 3:52 AM To: dmcnews@world.std.com Subject: DML: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
James, I have seen a couple of the early cars with this problem. I guess this = is why the factory added the clips. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 05:10:03 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Auto transmission update...
Dave, Yes you can override the computer and activate the solenoids directly. Contact me directly for more information. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 05:16:53 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: slow idle when cold.
Jameel, The normal function of the idle speed and Lambda will cause the idle speed to surge up and down and than settle after 2 to 4 minutes running time during warm up, if this is what your DeLorean is doing it is operating perfectly. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:25:31 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Door now open
James, Glad to see you got your door open. My previous post was addressing the problem you indicated. If the lock solenoid is not operating properly it may not push the lock rods completely to the unlock position so be sure to check that before you seal up the door. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:34:34 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: MIRROR SWITCH
Mike, I will be working in a drivers door tomorrow so I can instruct you on a test to confirm that the switch is actually bad. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@att.net
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 22:38:21 -0500 From: Steve <dmc@fdt.net> Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
On Sat, 5 Dec 1998 KayoOng@aol.com wrote: [...] > As for a project, I have constructed my own filters out of two different > type > of heavy duty air condition foam filter material, metal screen mesh for > strength and rigidity with a woman's nylon stockings as a "fine" pre and > post > filter. It is all held together by silicone glue. [...]
Be very careful when using any type of slicone compound, especially on parts associated with the intake manifold. If any silicone is released into the air (during curing, etc) and pulled into the engine it can damage your oxygen (lambda) sensor. "Safe" silicone adhesives are now sold in auto parts stores which do not harm oxygen sensors, though I have never used any of these.
-Steve <dmc@fdt.net>
VIN #17117
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 98 22:38:00 -0600 From: David Swingle <dswingle@enteract.com> Subject: DML: re: Fuel Filter
Subject: Filter Part # Sent: 12/4/1998 10:33 PM To: Greg Guillot, gguillot@mccno.co
The stamping on the Bosch filter is 0 450 905 401. With Bosch, this is not necessarily the same as the "box" or catalog part number.
Now that I've gone out and looked at it, the end with the problem is definitely the inlet, Where the filter screws into the elbow. The outlet is a banjo fitting.
I've not heard of anyone else running into this problem (that's why I posted it). The best way to check for it is to put a little grease pencil mark on the fitting where it mates up with the filter, put it together and take it apart, and see if it bottomed out.
Dave >Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:44:22 -0600 >From: Greg Guillot <gguillot@mccno.com> >Dave, > >Can you tell us the Bosch number of the filter you have? I recently >purchased >one as well, and would like to make sure that I don't run into this >problem. (I >haven't installed it yet.)
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 98 22:38:04 -0600 From: David Swingle <dswingle@enteract.com> Subject: DML: Dave's trans part 6/Parts Available
Things are beginning to look up - as I stated last time, in addition to the broken 1-2 roll pin my 3-4 slider gear and the 3rd gear syncro are torn up.
I was able to buy a whole used transmission for less than the cost of the parts. The flaw in the used trans that lead to the (kind of) low price is the fact that the prior owner must have tried to play Marty McFly with the clutch and tore most of the teeth off the spider (diff) gears, and then one of the teeth was then launched by the ring gear through the trans case about where the drain plug is (was). Instead of the drain plug there is a jagged 1-inch hole in the case that gives a nice view of the ring gear.
Lucky for me the pieces wandering around in the trans didn't make it to the upper regions because everything looks great in the neighborhood of the 3-4 gear slider. All I have to do now is drop the whole input shaft assembly into my trans. In the process I am also replacing all of the seals and the rubber boot that goes around the shaft where the shifter hooks up to the trans cover. I'm also going to plastic-bead blast (the outside of) the case.
This will of course lead to an assortment of available used transmission parts. If anyone is looking for a perfectly good output shaft assembly (1-2 gears/slider/synchro) or other items such as rear cover, bellhousing, any of the bearings or the side of the case that DOESN'T have the drain plug in it let me know. I'll try to itemize things later.
I hope to start reassembly next weekend - I may make it by Christmas yet.
Any advice on how to best seal this back up? You may not realize it but the two halves of the case are so well-machined that they do not use a gasket to seal them together. I can't find anyone around here that even knows what Hylamar is, the closest thing appears to be Permatex Anerobic Sezalant or some Fel-Pro stuff that one shop came up with. RTV is NOT recommended.
Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #450 *****************************
Postings to the DELOREAN MAILING LIST are the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of the list moderator or his Internet Service Provider(s). The list moderator makes every effort to screen out false, misleading, and negative postings, but it is up to you to realize that nothing should be taken as actual fact without research and investigation of your own. Send postings to "dmcnews@world.std.com" Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html Thank you!
Go to previous digest | Go to next
digest.
Back
to DeLorean Mailing List Page.
Return to Back Issues page.
Search the back issues.
Having problems with these pages? Have a good idea for the back Issues? Email me at: backissues@dmcnews.com
Member of the LinkExchange