Back to DeLorean Mailing List Page.From: eGroups Digest [dmcnews(AT)egroups.com] Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 12:23 PM To: Subject: dmcnews digest
eGroups Daily Digest: dmcnews has 16 new messages. Click here http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5334 to read them.
----------------------------------------------------------------- 5334. . Corrosion 5335. PrintCentral "Arrowless" Window Switches? - NEW STENCIL KIT! 5336. Jonathan Heslop Re: Engine Bay Cover 5337. Marc A Levy Re: POLL: The average age of a DeLorean owner 5338. DMC83in99(AT)aol.com Re: Engine Bay Cover 5339. BRUCE BENSON Re: Good D Leaks gas New D has problems 5340. J.D. Robbins passenger door 5341. Jack Singer Fuel Distributor 5342. DMC Joe Re: Good D Leaks gas New D has problems 5343. webmaster(AT)delorean.co.uk POLL: Are the factory Right-hand drive cars "orig 5344. Sean Howley Re: Engine Bay Cover 5345. Sean Howley Engine cut-off under hard braking 5346. Jonathan Heslop engine heater 5347. Jonathan Miller Power Windows & Parking brake 5348. BurkePhoto(AT)aol.com Re: contact cleaner 5349. Ryan Bennett Battery strap -----------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------ message 5334 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5334
From: "." <jdl(AT)interax.com> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 04:53:26 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Corrosion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Would naval jelly work on corrosion/rust by removing it?
David Levey Cleveland
------------------------------ message 5335 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5335
From: "PrintCentral" <mrcopies(AT)jet2.net> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:38:26 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] "Arrowless" Window Switches? - NEW STENCIL KIT! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Gang!
After getting a pile of great feedback from the list a month ago I decided to go ahead with the stencil idea.
The inexpensive kits are now available!
If you're suffering from "arrowless" window switches then take a look at www.mydelorean.com for a really easy way to repaint them.
Here's How It Works - The stencils are created from adhesive vinyl which when applied to the top of your arrowless switch act as a paint mask. You simply spray white paint on top of the switch, peel the sticker off and the paint (in the shape of your original arrow) remains......Neat huh?
Price for the kits are $6 for one / $10 for two and INCLUDES shipping (first class postage) anywhere in the world. There's a photo instruction sheet included with the stencils which takes you step by step through the process. Prices are in US Dollars.
Thanks, mike(AT)mrcopies.com VIN#17089 Windsor, Ontario
P.S. For a closer look of a repainted original window switch visit: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=218332557
------------------------------ message 5336 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5336
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag(AT)mindspring.com> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:14:44 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] re: Engine Bay Cover MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Nigel.........
Thats the first thing I had to do on my car since the bracket was broken. For the first few weeks I used a baseball bat to prop it up. I searched all over St. Louis and finally for a hood prop rod made by Lisle. It's telescopic and spring locks hold it in place as you pull it up. It can be sized to fit in either corner, or right in the middle. It also works for the hood. One time when I was putting gas it my D, the hood got caught by a gust of wind, fell down, and ripped a square inch of skin off my hand--so I ALWAYS use the prop rod or DMC umbrella just as a back up.
They're about $20-$30. If found mine at a local parts store but they're also at http://www.imparts.com. My all time favorite catalog, http://www.griotsgarage.com also has prop rods, but they're the screw and lock type and take much longer to setup.
The problem with my cover is that the bracket ripped off the two holes in the cover. You can move the bracket forward or back on the piece because it wouldn't fit right. Has anyone been able to fabricate a piece to fit around those ripped out holes?? I imagine it would be similar to the clip used to hold the screens in place.
Thanks,
--Jonathan #000697
------------------------------ message 5337 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5337
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 11:43:37 -0500 From: Marc A Levy <malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com> References: <82prop+ei0o(AT)eGroups.com> <002e01bf4373$8b3e9e20$4400a8c0(AT)yucca> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: POLL: The average age of a DeLorean owner MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I think the question was DeLorean OWNER. Are you a 13 year old Owner?? If so, I am impressed!
Phil F wrote: > > I like the idea of a poll, BUT there are some members under 16, to tell you > the truth I'm only 13. > > -Phil > philf(AT)ssesco.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <jperkins(AT)carolina.rr.com> > To: <dmcnews(AT)egroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 9:24 PM > Subject: [DML] POLL: The average age of a DeLorean owner > > > Did you ever notice that DeLorean owners come in all ages? This is a car > that can't be stereotyped to one age class. From young to old everyone > seems to love the "D". So within what age range do you fall under? <SNIP>
------------------------------ message 5338 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5338
From: DMC83in99(AT)aol.com Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 12:11:33 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Engine Bay Cover MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Nigel-
I had to replace my cover support when I first got mine. I had the same problem this week; the body just can't seem to support continuous weight on it. Let me know what you come up with, I'm eager to try something new myself
Scott
------------------------------ message 5339 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5339
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut(AT)worldnet.att.net> References: <3.0.1.32.19991211201619.0071d8b0(AT)earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 12:44:40 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Good D Leaks gas New D has problems MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>I noticed that when I turn the key to the position just before cranking the engine I do > not hear the hum of the fuel pump, like I do in my 81. If I crank the engine, and it > does not turnover, I then hear the humming fuel pump for > just a few seconds
>Joe P
The fuel pump runs through the RPM relay and needs the engine to be cranking before it runs. It runs a few seconds and if the relay doesn't sense the engine starting, it shuts the pump off to prevent flooding. That's why continuous cranking isn't the right way to get fuel to the engine. Repeated cranking with the key turned off between crankings will restart the fuel pump each time.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------ message 5340 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5340
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 12:39:38 -0800 From: "J.D. Robbins" <jrobbins(AT)brit.ca> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] passenger door MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I got myself into a bit of trouble. I pulled apart my passenger's side door to adjust my door opening actuators. Actually, I adjusted the tensioner rods that pull on each side of the door lock/open mechanism.
Anyways, things seemed fine, I put everything back together, ... was great for a few days... but now I can't open the door at all. Not with the handle (interior or exterior), nor with the door open actuators I installed.
What are my options? It is really annoying only having one door, especially with a passenger. The nuts that hold the door lock rods in place must have come loose and unscrewed, thus the door handle doesn't pull the rod far enough to actuate the door mechanism.
Ideas?
J
------------------------------ message 5341 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5341
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 12:50:36 -0800 From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger(AT)i-c.net> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Fuel Distributor MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit available for the DMC fuel distributor. Mine was not working so I soaked it but that did not work. So I took it apart and the ruber gaskets were shot. I need to replace them or find a cheap replacement.
------------------------------ message 5342 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5342
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> References: <3.0.1.32.19991211201619.0071d8b0(AT)earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:44:11 -0800 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Good D Leaks gas New D has problems MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Joe,
The first thing to do is determine the source of the leak. Your description sounds as if the leak is at the fuel accumulator which is located in the center section of the frame. If this is the case you could replace the hose from under the car but you would need to raise it on to jack stands. If the leak is up at the fuel tank the fuel lines can be serviced from above. If you decide to service the fuel system yourself be sure to follow all the precautions that are associated with fuel system service. If you are unsure of these precautions and or are not properly equipped leave the job to a pro.
Your directional, hazard, horn problem will require further investigation. You can contact me directly for additional assistance http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/help.html
The car that has the fuel pump that operates when the engine is not running is the one that is improperly wired. The normal operation of the fuel pump is as follows: When the key is turned to the ignition "on " position (red dash lights lit) the fuel pump may or may not run for a few seconds. After a those first 2-3 seconds the pump should shut down. ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus(AT)earthlink.net> To: <dmcnews(AT)egroups.com> Sent: Saturday, December 11, 1999 5:16 PM Subject: [DML] Good D Leaks gas New D has problems
> Well I guess I bought my second delorean just in time. I was idling my > good 81 delorean (VIN 6808) in my drive way today, and just as I was > telling my father how lucky we have been to not have hardly any problems > with this D, I looked down and saw a puddle of gas. It was dripping out of > the middle of the car a little bit behind the fuel tank. It does not drip > when thae car is off, so I guess it is a hose. WOuld it be possible to > change this hose with out have the car on a lift? I mean could I jack it > up and change it? Or whould I leave this task to a more experienced mechanic? > Another thing. The second D's (17167) turn signals, horn, and hazard > switch, still wont work. I checked fuse six. I know it is good, and I > checked the flasher unit as well. (I put them in 6808 and they worked). I > there anything else I should check before I start ripping wires out of the > car? > One more thing. On 17167 (1983 second D) I noticed something peculiar > that might have something to do with its hot start problem. I noticed that > when I turn the key to the position just before cranking the engine I do > not hear the hum of the fuel pump, like I do in my 81. If I crank the > engine, and it does not turnover, I then hear the humming fuel pump for > just a few seconds. I think the previous owner, who put the engine in > himself, may have wired the fuel put to come on only when you crank the > car. This would explain why it takes slightly longer (when the car is > cold) to start this D than my 81. (the 83 sill wont start when its hot) > If you are able to make sense of my incoherent rambling, then I commend > you, and thank you for your input. > > Joe P. > VIN 6808 (with fuel leak) > VIN 17167 (with no turnsignals horn hazard signals)
------------------------------ message 5343 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5343
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 14:31:32 -0800 From: webmaster(AT)delorean.co.uk X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] POLL: Are the factory Right-hand drive cars "original"? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In the Fall '99 issue of DeLorean World, David Knudson of the DOA states that the factory never produced any Right-Hand Drive cars. The argument centres around David's definition of "original". The cars are all conversions, but if the conversion was done for DMC, aren't the cars "original"? For details of the correspondace between Cris Parnham of the DOC UK and David Knudsen, please visit http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk/News/rhd.htm and tell us what YOU think! ----
Please select one of the following:
o Yes o No o Not Sure
by going to the following Web form:
http://www.egroups.com/vote?id=945037891953&listname=dmcnews
Thank you!
------------------------------ message 5344 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5344
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi(AT)mindspring.com> References: <19991211221027.1816.qmail(AT)web503.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 18:20:01 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Engine Bay Cover MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The previous owner of my D did this to the cover. Because of the way he did it, it badly cracked the cover and put a very fine crack in the louvers. If done correctly, this could work ok, but it is also possible to damage them in the process.
Sean Howley VIN#2345
> someone told me that they have made a hook and attached it the louvres > then open the engine bay and hook it onto the louvres. Assuming the
------------------------------ message 5345 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5345
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi(AT)mindspring.com> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 18:23:34 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Engine cut-off under hard braking MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF44CD.FFE8E220" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF44CD.FFE8E220
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
I am just curious about something. In two (maybe three) instances that I h= ave had to emergency brake my DeLorean, the engine has cut-off. I suspect = it is because the booster is requiring more than the engine can provide at = idle and it cannot compensate. Has anyone else had this problem or have an= y suggestions on how to stop it from occurring?
Thank you,
Sean Howley VIN#2345
------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF44CD.FFE8E220
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" http-equiv=3DContent-Type= > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">I am just curious about something. = ; In =
two (maybe three) instances that I have had to emergency brake my DeLorean,= the =
engine has cut-off. I suspect it is because the booster is requiring = more =
than the engine can provide at idle and it cannot compensate. Has any= one =
else had this problem or have any suggestions on how to stop it from =
occurring?</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">Thank you,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"><BR>Sean =
Howley<BR>VIN#2345</FONT></DIV>
</body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF44CD.FFE8E220--
------------------------------ message 5346 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5346
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag(AT)mindspring.com> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 18:26:36 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] engine heater MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Has anyone has success with an engine heater?? It's only down in the 30s here in St. Louis now, and my D doesn't like it at all. By January when we're looking at much lower temps, I don't know what it'll do.
I drive mine 4 miles (7 minutes) to school every morning and by the time I get there, I'm just getting heat out of the ducts. It's still hesitating after idle too. For the first mile out of my neighborhood I run in first to keep it from dying (automatic trans). At the end of the 4 miles the needle is just barely off the bottom line.
I can't go out an start it 5-10 minutes before I leave because it will die. I have to keep a touch of pedal in there to keep it running (about 900-1100 RPMs).
It usually stays in an unheated garage and sometimes outside. I'd really like to try an engine heater. There's only two in JC Whitney--one that sticks onto the oil pan, and another that is magnetic. Know of anyone else who sells them?? Where's the best place in the engine compartment to place it?? What's a fair price??
Thanks!!
--Jonathan #000697
gatewayaag(AT)mindspring.com "gatewayaag"
------------------------------ message 5347 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5347
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 18:58:45 -0600 (CST) From: Jonathan Miller <betaray(AT)kludge.org> In-Reply-To: <003501bf44b6$efc895a0$c44addd8(AT)mrcopies> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Power Windows & Parking brake MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I'm trying to see what I can do to fix my drivers side power window. It is completely off the track, and I don't see the motor doing anything to raise or lower the window. The motor does however hum. I can't figgure out how to get a good look at the regulator and track to figure out what the problem is. After I got the upper and lower trim off I got stuck. Is there a way I can get more access? Anyone know what I should be looking for once I get in there?
Secondly, on the only other D that I've got to play with I seem to remember that the parking break could be pulled to a 90 degree angle. On my car it seems to only go to abot a 45 degrees. It also doesn't hold for anything, but I think that's just a break pad problem. I was just curious as to which car was correct, and if it's supposed to be able to go to 90 what my problem could be.
-- Jonathan
------------------------------ message 5348 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5348
From: BurkePhoto(AT)aol.com Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 20:56:51 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: contact cleaner MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In a message dated 12/12/99 1:58:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, mark(AT)buffalochips.org writes:
<< I *think* I've seen a tube of a gel type one too, but don't remember where. Boat store?? >>
I've used silicone grease on my boards (squeezed some into the connector after cleaning the board before reinstalling the connector). The grease is nonconducting, won't short the connector, and helps to keep corrosion causing contaminants at bay. This approach is somtimes used on outdoor antenna connectors to the same end.
Burke
------------------------------ message 5349 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5349
From: "Ryan Bennett" <rpbennet(AT)ix.netcom.com> References: <82pcrk$gkdi(AT)eGroups.com> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 20:01:40 -0800 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com Subject: [DML] Battery strap MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
After browsing the archives, I've seen several people ask this questin, and the only response I've come across involves looking at Delorean World V11, #2 which I don't have access to. The question is:
How in blazes does the battery strap connect? I'm hoping someone can post a photo or illustration to the vault to indicate the proper way. Or if someone is proficient with words enough to describe it, that would be great, too. I've been screwing with it for 2 years now (taking time out for meals, of course) and still haven't gotten it. The previous owner couldn't figure it out, either.
Thanks in advance,
Ryan Bennett #01085
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-- View the full archives, subscribe/unsubscribe, use the group calendar at http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews Manage your subscriptions at http://eGroups.com
Free e-mail groups by eGroups.com.
Back to DeLorean Mailing List Page.
Back to the BackIssues page
Search the back issues.
Having problems with these pages? Have a good idea for the back Issues? Email
me at: backissues(AT)dmcnews.com
Home | Back
Issues | Downloadable Files | Links
| Subscribe
DeLorean FAQ | Clubs
and Events | DeLorean Mailing List FAQ
Copyright ©
2000 DMC-News