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DeLorean Mailing List - 2/19/96
Subjects:
Important Notice about the DeLorean Mailing List
Re: DeLorean Mailing List - 2/16/96
no brakes, center control panel heat
Re: Driving Use?
Windshield
re: No Brakes
original fascia color + new delorean acquisition...
Hummer brochure for DeLorean brochure
Re: DeLorean Mailing List - 2/16/96
Re: DeLorean Mailing List - 2/16/96
John Z's Autograph
DMC Use
---------------------
Subject: Important Notice about the DeLorean Mailing List
Sent: 02/16 8:13 PM
Received: 02/16 8:25 PM
From: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
(Sorry to re-post this, but I want to make sure that it gets the broadest
dissemination as possible!)
Effective February 26, 1996 (a week from this coming Monday), the
DeLorean Mailing List switches to the new "majordomo" list server. If
your question isn't answered below, please email me directly at
"mikasa(AT)goodnet.com". Thanks!
-----------------
Q. Why the switch?
A. The DeLorean Mailing List now has over 200 subscribers and the manual
"cut and paste" method of compiling and mailing the issues is inefficient
and prone to problems. The majordomo server eliminates all this hassle.
-----------------
Q. How will this affect me?
A. As a current subscriber, the only change for you is a new address to
send your postings to. I will publish this address in the February 23rd
issue of the DeLorean Mailing List. Also, if you wish to "unsubscribe"
from the DeLorean Mailing List, there will be a new address for that
which I will make available at the same time.
-----------------
Q. Will there be a regular mailing list offered as well as the digest
version that we all know and love?
A. Message traffic now, IMO, does not warrant a "regular" list, or more
frequent issues. Perhaps in the future.
-----------------
Q. Will the DeLorean Mailing List still be delivered three times a week?
A. YES! Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, except holidays.
-----------------
Q. Will you have to start charging for the DeLorean Mailing List now?
A. While it's true that there is (little bit) greater expense to doing it
this way, it has always been my intent that the DeLorean Mailing List
remain FREE. I have had a couple offers from various companies/persons
wanting to sponsor the DeLorean Mailing List, but I don't want to have
any affiliation with any particular DeLorean parts/service facility or
owner's group.
-----------------
Q. Will I still be able to get back issues from the web page?
A. Definitely. I will maintain the archive on the same semi-regular basis
I have been.
-----------------
Q. Will the list still be moderated?
A. I still have the option of moderating, but unless it gets out of hand,
I am not going to moderate the list any longer.
-----------------
Q. What can I do for you, James?
A. Tell your friends about the DeLorean Mailing List. Tell your favorite
parts/service company about the DeLorean Mailing List and encourage them
to participate. If, in your travels around the 'net, you find anyplace
where the DeLorean Mailing List should be mentioned or announced, please
feel free to do so, or let me know and I will do it.
-----------------
Q. Anything else I can do for you, James?
A. A nice computer-related job in a warm climate, and/or an introduction
to your single sister/co-worker/neighbor, etc.
-----------------
Once again I would like to thank the many, many people who have
contributed in one form or another to the success of the DeLorean Mailing
List. Without all of you, my mailbox would be empty! Thank you all!
James "Mikasa" Espey
List-owner, DeLorean Mailing List
Subject: Re: DeLorean Mailing List - 2/16/96
Sent: 02/16 9:15 AM
Received: 02/16 9:22 AM
From: Knut Grimsrud, Knut_S_Grimsrud(AT)ccm.jf.intel.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
OffroadPEZ(AT)aol.com writes:
> I have a question for all the DeLorean owners out there, what do
> you use your car for. I'm considering buying one and was wondering
> if you just let them sit in your garage or if you actually drive
> them to work and around town.
My DMC-12 is my only car and gets regular use. It now has 95,000 miles
on it and is going strong. I have had no major problems with it and it
still looks great.
> About the body, a friend of mine thinks that the stainless steel
> body will become pitted if it comes in contact with our atmosphere.
> Is there truth to this?
There are some substances that are harmful to SS304 stainless alloy --
the atmosphere is not one of them. Harmful couponds are primarily
metal compounds with act as reducing agents for the steel. Most pitted
and stained steel panels come from the use of SOS pads to buff the
panels. Use of SOS pads (or other metallig abrasives) damage the
stainless properties of the steel and leave deposits that rust from
the pad itself ingrained in the metal. The best way to preserve the
steel is to keep it clean. There is no truth to the fear that SS304
will become pitted in contact with the atmosphere, but there are other
compounds that will damage the panels.
Knut Grimsrud
DOA Chapter 41
Subject: no brakes, center control panel heat
Sent: 02/16 1:46 PM
Received: 02/16 3:26 PM
From: Red Rover, redrover(AT)cybernex.net
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
>My DMC VIN#6179 has some problems with its brakes.
>It's almost loosing them. You need to press the paddle all the way to the
bottom
>and it still
>doesn't break. Forget an emergency stop at the moment, the only way it'll come
>to a abrupt stop is against an object.
Sounds like a loss of fluid pressure, or air in the brake lines. My master
cylinder was losing fluid from the point where the plastic tank meets the
metal cylinder. If you're not losing fluid, look for air in one of the
lines. Try bleeding the brakes at each wheel, farthest from the master
cylinder first.
>Another thing I experienced recently. I nearly burnt my finger. You know the
>center console where the fan controls are. Just underneath the radio. It's
>getting very hot just on that spot
>above the control knod, just on the right side under the radio. Anyone knows
>whats behind it?
The illumination bulbs for that center control panel generate a lot of
heat,
and they were designed to burn whenever the ignition switch is "on". An
easy
fix is to run a jumper wire in the relay box so that the panel only lights
up when the headlights are turned on. Many of the cars sold used probably
had this done by some previous owner, and you may not know that this was a
problem for us when the cars were new.
J
vin #16507
DOA #2344
Subject: Re: Driving Use?
Sent: 02/16 4:40 PM
Received: 02/16 4:44 PM
From: James Espey, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
>I have a question for all the DeLorean owners out there, what do you use your
>car for. I'm considering buying one and was wondering if you just let them
>sit in your garage or if you actually drive them to work and around town.
My DeLorean is now my only car, and if it wasn't reliable, I wouldn't
have it. I put about 300 miles a week on my car between works and
running around. It has never left me stranded and I wouldn't hesitate to
drive it across the country tomorrow. BTW, I'll be driving it from here
in Phoenix to the DeLorean Owner's Association expo in Nashville this
fall - anyone tentatively interested in caravaning?
>Also, does anyone know what a DeLorean in good (not excellent) condition is
>going to run in price?
Here in Phoenix, there are about a half-dozen for sale between $8000 and
17,000. I would feel comfortable with any of them except the $8000 car.
It has been VERY WET at one time.
James
Subject: Windshield
Sent: 02/16 6:23 PM
Received: 02/16 6:27 PM
From: WINGD2(AT)aol.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
I can't tell you if a Lotus windshield works, but I had to put a new
windshield in my car last year and was able to find one at a place called
Glass Suppliers (800) 421-1414.
Cost was $375 plus shipping. It was aftermarket, not original DMC. All the
places I contacted about original DMC windshields (including KAPAC) told
me
the same thing. All the original glass is so old that its starting to
delaminate on the bottom. If your going to drive your car, the
delaminations
will just get worse as time goes on.
Glass Suppliers did all right by me. After installing the first
windshield they sent me, we found a distortion in the drivers line of
sight. They sent me a second unit free of charge. Unfortunately, we broke
the first unit removing it. The first unit was made in Finnland. The
second one in the USA.
A little tip I found out about these windshields: My original unit
cracked on the inside around the rearview mirror. The mirror base was
glued to the windshield per standard repair practice. This in incorrect
on these
windshields. Heat from the sun causes expansion of the glass and base at
different rates and this causes the cracking. DeLorean One has an isolater
pad that goes between the base and the glass that eliminates this
problem. If your old mirror falls off, or if you put a new windshield in,
don't reinstall your mirror without this isolator pad.
Marty
Subject: re: No Brakes
Sent: 02/16 10:15 PM
Received: 02/19 6:23 AM
From: jory(AT)MIT.EDU
To: 103235.3071(AT)compuserve.com
CC: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
>My DMC VIN#6179 has some problems with its brakes. It's almost loosing
>them. You need to press the
>paddle all the way to the bottom and it still doesn't break. Forget an
>emergency stop at the moment, the
>only way it'll come to a abrupt stop is against an object. Anyone any
>ideas? When you're going to any
>garage with a car like this, it's like asking "please rip me off". This
>way at least I can come prepared. I
>hope.
If you are at all interested, you could certainly fix the brakes yourself.
I just finished replacing my master cylinder (old one was too pitted to
consider rebuild), rebuilding my wheel cylinders (just to be
safe/compulsive), installing new pads and adjusting the parking brake. It
was really not that difficult., and now I have an entirely reliable brake
system for not too much cost. The procedure is described in the service
manual which you can get from any DeLorean parts place (though the one I
got
from DeLorean Motor Center was a terrible n-th generation photocopy.. I
was unimpressed with that one.)
Pretty much the entire braking ssystem is easy to access, service and/or
replace. Hydraulics, pads, vacuum assist, are all readily available
(cross
referenced or from a DeLorean parts house) and straightforward to work on.
Even replacing the rear rotors is trivial, though the fronts look to be a
pain (though it is unlikely you would need to replace the rotors in any
case.)
First, examine the underside of the vehicle looking for fluids leaks. The
places likely to leak are at the wheels (wheel cylinders) and at the
master
cylinder which is just in front of the driver. To more closely inspect the
wheel cylinders, pull the wheels (after jacking up that side of the
vehicle...) and they are right there. To inspect the master cylinder, take
the carpet and board out of the front trunk space and you will see an
inspection hatch held in with about 12 phillips head screws (there are
actually 2 hatches, one on the driver's side and a larger one in the tire
depression on the passenger side... you want the one on the driver's
side).
Remove the screws, and pry up the plate. It may be held in with some black
sealant/RTV. This should not matter much though.
The master cylinder is about 1 inch in diameter with a plastic reservoir
on
the top, and two metal 1/4" diameter lines coming out the driver'ds side
of
the metal cylinder body. There are some electric wires coming out of the
cap to the reservoir which are part of the low brake fluid warning system
(though it this comes on, you are in serious trouble!)
Press on the brakes and look for fluid. If the master cylinder is leaking,
the fluid will likely leak out the back part of the cylinder. Also check
to
see that the fluid level in the reservoir is sufficiantly high. If it is
low, you probably have a leak. If it is not low, you either have air in
the
system, or some other problem. If it's just air on the system, simply
bleeding th brakes might fix you right up! Of course, the air might or
might not indicae a developing problem with a leak somewhere.
If you find a leak, you can either rebuild of replace the part. The wheel
cylinders are difficult to get (unless you are travelling to Europe soon,
as they are common is several popular European ford models), and pricey,
though the master cylinder is a common part and about $150. Rebuild kits
for both the master and the wheel cylinders are available through Napa,
etc.
If you find a leak due to one of the rubber seals (in either the master of
wheel cylinders) consider replacing all the seals, since water can enter
the system and start corrosion in the system. Also, a failure in one part
might simply indicate that the rubber is getting old and less resilient.
Given the price of the rotors (and their apaprent lack of a cross
reference
part) you should make sure there is plenty of material on your brake pads.
This is trivial to see if you remove the wheels for your inspection.
Another thing to look for is uneven wear on pads. If one side of the car
or
one side of a rotor (there are two pads per each wheel) is significantly
more worn that the other, than one of the wheel cylinders may be sticking
or frozen and they should be rebuilt. Alwys replace pads on both sides of
the car at once.
If you do end up working on the hydraulic system, you will have to bleed
the brakes (which just means filling the cylinders and lines with
hydraulic
fluid to the exclusion of the air in the system). Anyways, be careful
about
removing the bleed screws in the wheel cylinders. If they break off, you
may have a hard time extracting them from the cylinders. I can tell you
from experience (though not on a DeLorean) that this is no fun! It is a
good idea to squirt some solvent (wd40, etc) on the bleed screws the day
before you are going to remove them... though even a little soak will
help.
Then, when you go to remove them, put a scket or wrench on it and use a
small hammer to *lightly* tap on the wrench in the direction of removal.
This will tend to help break the bonds that develop between the bleed
screw
and the cylinder (this approach works much better that simply smoothly
applying pressure by hand, since the smooth approach tends not to break
the
bonds, but can eventually cause the bleede scre to fail... if you are
still
doubting, note the effectiveness of impact wrenches which work on the same
principle). When reassembling, I always smear a small amout of never seize
on most all screws, to ensure they will come off easily on the future
(though this is not necessary, and there are some screws which should not
be treated this way).
Anyway, enough of my verbosity. Good luck with your brakes.
Subject: original fascia color + new delorean acquisition...
Sent: 02/16 10:37 PM
Received: 02/19 6:23 AM
From: jory(AT)MIT.EDU
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
Patrick wrote:
> If you would like to check out my adventure and new addition point to->
>
> http://idaho-web.com/songsurf/my_dmc12
I noticed in his pictures on the web page that the front and rear
fascias/bumpers are entirely black. Was that stock point? The silver paint
on mine is beginnnig to wear, and I had thought about repainting them
black, but was concerned (to some degree) with originaliy, and wondered
how
it would look. I like the look on Patrick's beast, since it highlights the
distinction between the plastic fascias and the stainless body in its
unpainted condition... instead of trying to make the plastic blend in with
the vergin ss...
-jory
Subject: Hummer brochure for DeLorean brochure
Sent: 02/17 3:05 AM
Received: 02/16 8:16 PM
From: Cole Stinnette, DMC12(AT)msn.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
I have an out of print Hummer sales brochure ($20 value) that I will
trade for
a DeLorean sales brochure. Please respond if interested.
Subject: Re: DeLorean Mailing List - 2/16/96
Sent: 02/17 10:01 AM
Received: 02/19 6:23 AM
From: LEDGEND2(AT)aol.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
I have had my DeLorean since 1985 and it doesn't have power steering or
power brakes. I was wondering if it is possibile to upgrade my DMC to
power
steering, and power brakes and if there is any special parts I need.
Dave
Subject: Re: DeLorean Mailing List - 2/16/96
Sent: 02/18 7:39 PM
Received: 02/19 6:23 AM
From: mrpack(AT)wam.umd.edu
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
Bowie Maryland British car day
Date: sunday, june 23 1996
location : Allen pond park Bowie, Maryland
more info:
The origional British car day
P.O. Box 1601
Lorton, VA 22199-1601
or
Michael Pack
867 Derby Farms
Severn Maryland 21144
mrpack(AT)wam.umd.edu
301-314-0376
410-551-3107
Subject: John Z's Autograph
Sent: 02/19 12:28 AM
Received: 02/19 6:23 AM
From: Cole Stinnette, DMC12(AT)msn.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
Well, I finally got up enough courage to write John DeLorean. I told him
that
I had some pictures of the DMC-12 and asked if he'd autograph them. Well,
guess what! Not only did he write back, but he agreed! I should have 6
autographed pictures by next month! Pretty cool, huh?
Subject: DMC Use
Sent: 02/19 5:19 AM
Received: 02/19 6:23 AM
From: Bryan Pearce, deneb(AT)interaccess.com
To: dmcnews, dmcnews(AT)goodnet.com
OffroadPEZ(AT)aol.com writes:
>I have a question for all the DeLorean owners out there, what do you use your
>car for. I'm considering buying one and was wondering if you just let them
>sit in your garage or if you actually drive them to work and around town.
My car is my primary mode of transportation. I drive it all year round,
usually about 18,000 miles per year.
>Also, does anyone know what a DeLorean in good (not excellent) condition is
>going to run in price?
I have seem some decent ones in the 15K range, but your likely to have to
do
things like brakes, tune up, and trailing arm bolts. Most importantly,
check the frame of any DeLorean you are considering for rust.
>About the body, a friend of mine thinks that the stainless steel body will
>become pitted if it comes in contact with our atmosphere. Is there truth
>to this?
I have not observed any pitting in the stainless steel panels.
>Thanks a lot!
No Problem
Bryan P.
------------------
End of DMC-News Digest #075
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