DeLorean Mailing List - 2/28/98


Saturday, February 28 1998       Volume 03 : Number 334



       In this issue:
        DML: Auto show
        DML: DeLorean Club of Oregon event notice
        DML: bolt removal?
        DML: Need fuel distributor
        DML: GAS FLAP ON HOOD
        Re: DML: Need fuel distributor
        DML: Dash Clock
        DML: Defrost Switch
        Re: DML: Need fuel distributor
        Re: DML: bolt removal?
        Re: DML: Need fuel distributor
        Re: DML: hood emblems on 81's (was Auto show:
        [Fwd: DML: bolt removal?]
        DML: Another facette about DMC-12's and the Grand Ole Opre
        DML: DMC mags
        DML: Rotors
        DML: Turbochargers
        DML: Long Block in Houston?
        Re: DML: Need fuel distributor
        RE: DML: hood emblems on 81's (was Auto show:
        DML: RE: Dash Clock
        [Fwd: DML: Long Block in Houston?]
        Re: DML: DMC mags
        RE: DML: hood emblems on 81's (was Auto show:
        DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98
        Re: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98 
        Re: DML: DMC mags
        DML: engine pictures...
        Re: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98
        DML: Number of questions
        Re: DML: Number of questions
        Re: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98
        Re: DML: Turbochargers
        Re: DML: Long Block in Houston?
        RE: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98
        DML: Accumulator
        DML: apology and a warning...
        DML: March Reservations
        DML: update on accumulator
        Re: DML: Accumulator
        Re: DML: DMC mags

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 17:44:20 -0500 (EST)
From: guy.delor(AT)sympatico.ca
Subject: DML: Auto show

Hi everyone,

Just a few words to tell you that I have been asked to
show my car at the annual Quebec Auto Show. Also the
website of the french version of Car Guide (here called
Guideauto.com) has asked me info and pictures on my car;
it has been presented as the "collector's pearl" a few
weeks ago.

Now I need an information: I have bought the hood emblem
(name plate) and I would like to know exactly where it
should be installed: I mean at which distance from the
hood edges. Can someone help me a.s.a.p. because my car
will be at the show beginning this week-end.

Thanks a lot!

Guy V. Boutet
81 DMC-12 0004155

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 98 15:02:00 PST
From: Knut S Grimsrud (Knut_S_Grimsrud(AT)ccm.jf.intel.com)
Subject: DML: DeLorean Club of Oregon event notice

The DeLorean Club of Oregon will be getting together for the '98 
planning meeting and dinner/drinks on Sunday March 1st at Stuart 
Anderson's Cattle Company on Cedar Hills Blvd in Beaverton. We'll have 
a cocktail in the lounge at 5:30pm and be seated for dinner at 6:00pm. 
If you'd like to join us please let me know so that I can have the 
restaurant reserve a suitably sized table.

                                        Knut Grimsrud
                                        DeLorean Club of Oregon
                                        (503) 649-8053

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 18:57:08 -0600
From: "Jameel Ahed" (ahed(AT)uiuc.edu)
Subject: DML: bolt removal?

Dear DML,
    I have been hearing about people breaking bolts trying to remove them.
I am also aware of the steel bolt in the aluminum engine block without any
antiseeze.   So how do you recommend one removes the bolt safely?  How do
you reduce the risk of breaking the bolt?  If the bolt gets broken how do
you remove it?  If the threads are stripped out, how do you fix that?  
Since
I am undertaking a major job, I really want to know... and want to be
prepared.  The way I see it, the funds for tools are unlimited.  So if 
there
is some fancy tool out there to do this stuff, let me know..  Thanx.
Jameel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 22:46:51 EST
From: NJP548(AT)aol.com
Subject: DML: Need fuel distributor

hey List,

My brother finally got a chance to take my fuel distributor off so he 
could
take it to his shop and see what the problem was.  He said that it was 
bad and
I need a new one.  He also said that it would cost $1000.00.  I was 
wondering
if anyone on the list had a distributor for sale that works???  Thanks.

Later,
Nick
VIN#1852

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 07:50:36 -0600
From: scottmueller(AT)zebra.net (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: GAS FLAP ON HOOD

TIFFANY WROTE:
)From: Tiffany Hamlin (be55ie(AT)worldpass.net)
)Subject: DML: gas flap on hood 

)I am reporting that the numbers are false for the gas flap on the hood.
)I own DMC vin #2606 and I do not have a gas flap.  I might me one of
)the first cars that might not have one.  


Tiffany, I own #2981 and it has the gas flap on the hood.  I know that i
have the original hood since the car has been in the family since it was
first purchased in 10/81.

I suspect that your hood has been changed from the original.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 06:49:57 +0000
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Subject: Re: DML: Need fuel distributor

Nick,

I've no idea why a fuel distributor would go bad, but if it is you 
shouldn't need a new one. Get a used one from a wrecking yard off any 
Volvo B28F. Most yards have a 30 day exchange so there's no risk.

Chris

) hey List,
) 
) My brother finally got a chance to take my fuel distributor off so he 
) could
) take it to his shop and see what the problem was.  He said that it was 
) bad and
) I need a new one.  He also said that it would cost $1000.00.  I was 
) wondering
) if anyone on the list had a distributor for sale that works???  Thanks.
) 
) Later,
) Nick
) VIN#1852

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 13:26:18 -0600
From: scottmueller(AT)zebra.net (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Dash Clock

The Dash Clock has failed in my 1981 DMC.  Does anyone know of a
source/price for NOS or rebuilt dash clocks?

Please let me know.

Thanks
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 13:28:00 -0600
From: scottmueller(AT)zebra.net (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Defrost Switch

When I was working on my center console, the Defrost switch fell apart. 
Is there a source of NOS/rebuilt switches.  I tried to assemble the
switch, but without a diagram, I am lost.

Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 12:44:02 -0600
From: Jordan Gary (jordang(AT)wf.quik.com)
Subject: Re: DML: Need fuel distributor

I recently replaced this item on my car.  I know where you can get a new 
one
for $500.  Also the Houston company has them rebuilt by Bosch for about
$650.  The way to test them is to pull all of the injectors out and put 
them
into cups or cans, (not styrofoam as gas melts it).  2) Then make the fuel
pump run.  This can be done by jumping the positive lead at the fuel pump
relay.  Or since I had the gas tank access plate off, I hooked a battery
charger at the pump wireing harness leads.  3) with the pump running the
injectors should spray as you push the air flow meter plate down.  The
injectors should spray more as you push the meter plate down.  And they 
all
should spray at the same volume rates.  Dirty injectors can also cause 
some
to spray poorly.
  If you want to know wherre I bought it for $500, then call me at
940-761-2527 or e-mail me directly.  Jordan Gary   vin 0794

ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com wrote:

) Nick,
)
) I've no idea why a fuel distributor would go bad, but if it is you
) shouldn't need a new one. Get a used one from a wrecking yard off any
) Volvo B28F. Most yards have a 30 day exchange so there's no risk.
)
) Chris
)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 14:56:07 -0500
From: Dan (dan(AT)angband.gt.ed.net)
Subject: Re: DML: bolt removal?

On Wed, Feb 25, 1998 at 06:57:08PM -0600, Jameel Ahed wrote:
) Dear DML,
)     I have been hearing about people breaking bolts trying to remove them.
) I am also aware of the steel bolt in the aluminum engine block without any
) antiseeze.   So how do you recommend one removes the bolt safely?  How do
) you reduce the risk of breaking the bolt? 

Here are a couple of hints to avoid breaking bolts, especially when
working on powerplants. I learned most of these from aircraft mechanics,
but they translate pretty well to cars.

1. Use a penetrant oil. The best one around is called "Mouse Milk", it's
availible from Sporty's pilot shops (www.sportys-catalogs.com). If you
can't get that, WD-40 will work, but not as well. Use the penetrant at
least 24 hours before you plan to do the work for best results.

2. Warm it up. It is often easier to remove engine bolts after the engine
is a little warm. (not hot.) Running the engine until the temperature
gauge reaches about half of the operating range is about right.

3. If it feels like the bolt is about to break, and still is'nt moving,
get a propane torch and heat the area surrounding the bolt while applying 
force with the wrench. The idea is'nt to get it red hot, just to expand it
a little so the bolt can turn. This is obviously a last-resort option,
because you will mess up the surface finish of whatever you heat, and
under the engine compartment is'nt exacly the safest place to mess around
with an open flame.

4. This comment does'nt really pertain to breaking bolts, but to rounding
the corners on them. Make sure to use good tools. Always use 6-point
sockets rather than 12-point, there is much less of a chance of screwing
up the head. As far as brand goes, there is an opinion among professional
mechanics that Craftsman sockets are intentionally made slightly
over-sized, so that the bolt head gets rounded off before the socket
breaks. I don't know if this is true or not, but I've never had a problem
with 6-pt Craftsman sockets.


) If the bolt gets broken how do
) you remove it?  

Ugh. first step is to see if you can get the other bolts off. If you can,
then you can usually remove the part and use a vice-grip and a torch to
remove it.

If it breaks again, you can try drilling and ez-outing the bolt. Try to
find reverse-threaded drill bits, they are rare, but every little bit
helps. Drill a pilot hole appropriate for the size of the EZ-out. Then
grab the EZ-out. This is kind of like a very coarse reverse threaded tap.
The idea is to get it to bind in the pilot then use it to back the bolt
out. DO NOT BREAK THIS SUCKER OFF IN THE BOLT! It's made of hardened stee,
and you'll never be able to drill it out. 

If you still can't get it out, you will have to drill it out. In crease
the size of your pilot hole one size at a time. It is nice to have the
reverse threaded bits here, because you may find that the bolt suddenly
comes loose right near the largest size, which will save you the hassle of
the next step.


)If the threads are stripped out, how do you fix that?  

You pretty much have 2 options here. First is to to drill oversize and
tap for the next larger size. This is not possible for all situations. The
other option is to drill it way oversize and have a threaded insert
installed. Most machine shops can do this for you, but you will have to
remove the part from the car first.


Good luck,

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 98 17:18:37 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" (bsmoody(AT)kih.net)
Subject: Re: DML: Need fuel distributor

) 
) My brother finally got a chance to take my fuel distributor off so he 
) could
) take it to his shop and see what the problem was.  He said that it was 
) bad and
) I need a new one.  He also said that it would cost $1000.00.  I was 
) wondering
) if anyone on the list had a distributor for sale that works???  Thanks.

From my expierence, Fuel distributors usually don't go "BAD".  They
usually just get gummed up really bad and start sticking.  Usually 
flushing
them really good in a good quality fuel system cleaner will do the trick. 
If
you want a new one,  Just check around your local foreign auto parts 
stores
and have them look it up.  Its a standard BOSCH part Number, and I have 
seen
them at much lower prices on exchange.  

- -Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 16:49:51 EST
From: SoundKillr (SoundKillr(AT)aol.com)
Subject: Re: DML: hood emblems on 81's (was Auto show:

Doesnt the hood emblem go on the 82 and 83's?
I have never seen one on an 81. Wont the creases in the hood get in the 
way of
the emblem?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 17:11:56 +0000
From: James Nichols (jhnichols(AT)earthlink.net)
Subject: [Fwd: DML: bolt removal?]

Jameel Ahed wrote:
) 
) Dear DML,
)     I have been hearing about people breaking bolts trying to remove them.
) I am also aware of the steel bolt in the aluminum engine block without any
) antiseeze.   So how do you recommend one removes the bolt safely?  How do
) you reduce the risk of breaking the bolt?  If the bolt gets broken how do
) you remove it?  If the threads are stripped out, how do you fix that?

Penetrating oil is the best way to help prevent breaking a bolt if you
can get to the threads.  Nuts are easy, but start two or three days
before you try to remove the nut.  Mouse Milk and Liquid Wrench are only
two of the many penetrating oils.  Most are mainly kerosene with light
oil, but they will penetrate if given time and warm, (not hot)
temperatures.  If you can't get to the threads, heat is the only other
way to loosen the bolt.
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 19:07:42 -0600
From: "David L. Stalling" (dstall(AT)mail.trib.net)
Subject: DML: Another facette about DMC-12's and the Grand Ole Opre

Regarding the note from Bruce Battles and the DeLorean and the Grand Ole 
Opry:
"Subject: DML: DMC plays the Grand Ole Opry
Fellow DMCer's,
Yes it is true! A DMC has played the Grand Ole Opry on 01/06/98. (snip)

                                                   Bruce Battles
                                                    Vin # 6569"

I can add another note relating to a DeLorean and a member of the Grand 
Ole
Opry.  Little Jimmie Dickins had a DeLorean on display in a museum
featuring some of his history there in Nashville.  I had the opportunity 
to
meet a former business manager of Little Jimmie Dickins living in Kansas
City and he showed me a picture of Little Jimmie Dickins with the car.
This man also owned the DeLorean that had the Pantera engine conversion
that I also drove ((2000 miles on the car). I do not know if this modified
DeLorean was sold but it was offered for sale for $25,000 a little more
than one year ago.

In the event that someone in the Midwest is looking for a super good 
DMC-12
Automatic with about 15,000 miles (automatic) contact me; mine in 
Columbia,
MO is for sale for $17,500 (573) 442-2795.

Dave Stalling.  dstall(AT)mail.trib.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 18:33:38 +0000
From: goat 999 (goat999(AT)azstarnet.com)
Subject: DML: DMC mags

i remember hearing somewhere that there are some articles about DMCs in
magazines such as Road and Track (i think). does anyone know the exact
magazines (issue #s or dates)? this information would be greatly
appreciated!

thanks!
(-illyana-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 20:44:36 -0800
From: Matt Peak (mpeak(AT)ucla.edu)
Subject: DML: Rotors

	When a major company takes the time to cater to our elite group, I think
it is nice to periodically remind everyone on the list about the product.
So, just to remind to long-time DMLers and inform you new DMLers, Auto
Specialty produces high-performance cross drilled brake rotors for our
cars.  I've had these rotors on my car since June and, combined with
semi-metallic brake pads, have noticed faster brake response, less brake
fade, and improved stopping power.  If anyone is interested, contact Matt
Weiss at Auto Specialty.  You can get their number by calling the 
toll-free
directory (1-800-555-1212).  Also, I believe P.J. Grady and DMC Houston
sell these rotors also.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 20:44:19 -0800
From: Matt Peak (mpeak(AT)ucla.edu)
Subject: DML: Turbochargers

	I was looking on the internet at the posted pictures of the twin-turbo
system and I noticed that the air intake hose is disconnected.  I
appreciate the fact that somebody took the initiative to design a
twin-turbo system, however I believe the system is out-dated and 
DEFINITELY
not worth the money.  First, the system lacks intercoolers which prevent
engine damage and allow a greater psi to be injected into the engine.  
When
dealing with turbochargers, air has a tendency to heat up regardless of 
the
intake temperatures due to the increase in pressure and the contact with
the exhaust housing.  When this is coupled with the fact that the engine 
is
drawing in hot air from the engine compartment, the benefits gained for 
the
cost are not very good.
	I would be interested in information people have on more effective
alternatives to the twin-turbo system.  Due to the Delorean's tight engine
compartment, I would be particularly interested in hearing about
superchargers and/or intercoolers (include specifics please).  I have done
some research on my own, but have yet to talk to somebody who has
implimented their own system.

Matt Peak

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 20:54:50 -0800
From: Matt Peak (mpeak(AT)ucla.edu)
Subject: DML: Long Block in Houston?

I noticed that DMC Houston is selling a long block engine (listed on their
web site) for $4875.  I presume this is a V-8, but does anybody know the
details? (Warren?)

Matt Peak

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 18:19:55 -0600
From: "BRUCE BENSON" (delornut(AT)postoffice.worldnet.att.net)
Subject: Re: DML: Need fuel distributor

Jordan's right on the money. The leads to jump are between terminals # 87
and 30 on the plug going into the RPM relay located behind the passenger
seat. This makes the pump run continously.

Bruce Benson
- ----------


) I recently replaced this item on my car.  I know where you can get a new 
) one
) for $500.  Also the Houston company has them rebuilt by Bosch for about
) $650.  The way to test them is to pull all of the injectors out and put 
) them
) into cups or cans, (not styrofoam as gas melts it).  2) Then make the
fuel
) pump run.  This can be done by jumping the positive lead at the fuel pump
) relay.  Or since I had the gas tank access plate off, I hooked a battery
) charger at the pump wireing harness leads.  3) with the pump running the
) injectors should spray as you push the air flow meter plate down.  The
) injectors should spray more as you push the meter plate down.  And they 
) all
) should spray at the same volume rates.  Dirty injectors can also cause 
) some
) to spray poorly.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:00:59 -0500
From: Geoffroy Birtz (gbirtz(AT)qci.ca)
Subject: RE: DML: hood emblems on 81's (was Auto show:

) Doesnt the hood emblem go on the 82 and 83's?
) I have never seen one on an 81. Wont the creases in the hood get in
) the 
) way of the emblem?
) 
) 
I have an 83 and no hood emblem.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:46:26 -0600
From: "Bixby, Web" (wbixby(AT)kclife.com)
Subject: DML: RE: Dash Clock

I had this same problem.  As it turns out this is one of the items that
was believed to be long gone but Stephen Wynne of DMC-Houston found a
box of these in the Columbus warehouse.  I am happy to tell you that I
purchased one last year and it works great.  

Web Bixby
VIN 1049

) ----------
) Subject: 	DML: Dash Clock
) 
) The Dash Clock has failed in my 1981 DMC.  Does anyone know of a
) source/price for NOS or rebuilt dash clocks?
) 
) Please let me know.
) 
) Thanks
) Scott

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:55:25 +0000
From: James Nichols (jhnichols(AT)earthlink.net)
Subject: [Fwd: DML: Long Block in Houston?]

Matt Peak wrote:
) 
) I noticed that DMC Houston is selling a long block engine (listed on their
) web site) for $4875.  I presume this is a V-8, but does anybody know the
) details? (Warren?)
) 
) Matt Peak

A short block is an engine without heads.  A long block is an engine
with heads installed.  Neither has accessories or manifolds.
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 07:56:18 +0000
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Subject: Re: DML: DMC mags

) i remember hearing somewhere that there are some articles about DMCs in
) magazines such as Road and Track (i think). does anyone know the exact
) magazines (issue #s or dates)? this information would be greatly
) appreciated!
) 
) thanks!
) (-illyana-)
) 

Hi,

Here's what I've got,

Car and Driver  July 1981
Car and Driver  Dec 1981
Time  November 1, 1981
Motor Trend  May 1981
Motor Trend  Sept. 1977 (Pictures and text are of a prototype)
New York  November 8, 1982
Car and Driver  May 1981

These are NOT for sale. Info only.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:18:28 -0700
From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Subject: RE: DML: hood emblems on 81's (was Auto show:

I suspect the hood emblem thing will be a never ending discussion.  My 81
had none and my 83 does.

I suspect this is similar to the question of the hoods -- the problem, or
solution if you think postively, lies in the fact that these are 16 year
old cars.  Many have had body work done to them and thus the type of hoods
and the emblems, or lack thereof, are, most likely, due to said body work.

Dick Ryan
The Rad Dad

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 09:16:39 -0700
From: James Espey (espey(AT)dmcnews.com)
Subject: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98

VIN 6776 has been in my possession for a few days now and I've had the 
opportunity to examine it in the cold, hard light of day and...it's not 
that bad.

Things that work:
Craig radio, including display, tape deck and power antenna
Dash clock
Windows go up and down *nicely*
All lights, interior and exterior
Wipers at all speeds
Remote mirrors
Defrost switch
headlight switch
mode switch
lighter
drivers side locks and unlocks both sides, passenger side only work that 
side

Biggest mechanical issue is an idle problem that is slowly driving me 
nuts. At all times, the idle fluctuates between 700 and 1400 RPM 
(approximately) - up and down and up and down. At times on the "down" 
end, the oil pressure light will flash. Anyone experienced this before? 
Idle speed regulator or something else more/less sinister? Seems to run a 
little rich, too, but not so much since it's been run a bit. Related or 
not?

James

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:05:53 +0500
From: J (sundiver(AT)discordia.org)
Subject: Re: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98 

) Biggest mechanical issue is an idle problem that is slowly driving me 
) nuts. At all times, the idle fluctuates between 700 and 1400 RPM 
) (approximately) - up and down and up and down. At times on the "down" 
) end, the oil pressure light will flash. Anyone experienced this before? 
) Idle speed regulator or something else more/less sinister? Seems to run a 
) little rich, too, but not so much since it's been run a bit. Related or 
) not?
) 
) James

My car does this every once in a while. It's been like that for the past 
three years
(40K+ miles) or so. Unfortunatly it seems to always decided to start 
doing it when I have
to be somewhere and don't have time to look at it. Whenever I sit down to 
try to track down
the problem it doesn't happen.

In the time since it started happening I've replaced the distributor cap 
and rotor,
sparkplugs, alternator, connectors going to the ignition balast, fuel 
pump, fuel filter,
inspected the fuel injectors, and adjusted the timing. The problem still 
shows up once in
a while, but not often enough to make me really worry about (though maybe 
I should).

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:36:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Pete Cowan (peter(AT)cadif.cornell.edu)
Subject: Re: DML: DMC mags

On Thu, 26 Feb 1998, goat 999 wrote:
) i remember hearing somewhere that there are some articles about DMCs in
) magazines such as Road and Track (i think). does anyone know the exact
) magazines (issue #s or dates)? this information would be greatly
) appreciated!
ok, this is also for all those who havn't seen it yet:  the DMC
(www.usadmc.com) there is a "reading list" that seems pretty comprehensive
about where you can find info in periodicals and book and such. 
- --pete

/================+=========================+====================\
|Peter A. Cowan  |  Office:  607.255.8575  | 165 Hollister Hall |
|   SysAdmin     |  Pager:   607.897.1791  | Cornell University |
|Cadif - Cornell | peter(AT)cadif.cornell.edu |  Ithaca NY 14853   |
\================+=========================+====================/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:45:32 -0600
From: "Jameel Ahed" (ahed(AT)uiuc.edu)
Subject: DML: engine pictures...

Dear DML,
    Here is an update on my car.  I put some pictures of my engine being
removed and a picture of the engine/tranny hanging there on a chain.

http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/delorean.html

Jameel Ahed CEO of CyberTECH Industries
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions
HOMEPAGE:  http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/
VOITECH:  http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL:  mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:08:57 -0700
From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Subject: Re: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98

James said -----
)Biggest mechanical issue is an idle problem that is slowly driving me
)nuts. At all times, the idle fluctuates between 700 and 1400 RPM
)(approximately) - up and down and up and down. At times on the "down"
)end, the oil pressure light will flash. Anyone experienced this before?
)Idle speed regulator or something else more/less sinister? Seems to run a
)little rich, too, but not so much since it's been run a bit. Related or
)not?
)
- -------------------------------------------------

Could easily be related.  If running too rich the Oxy sensor keeps going
from rich to lean, rich to lean with the resultant fluctuation in the idle
speed.

Lean it out just a tad and see if this doesn't help.

Dick Ryan
The Rad Dad

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 14:20:05 -0500
From: "Ronald  Pohala" (rpohala(AT)luzerne.edu)
Subject: DML: Number of questions

HI,

Just found out my vin# is 3567 and is an 81 Delorean What does that mean?

Also need two exhaust manifolds to go with my rebuilt engine. Any way to
acquire one without paying $350 each from dmc in Houston?

Also regarding new slave cylinder. What is telltale sign it may be bad.

There is a cross matching for many delorean parts Anyone know where it is
located for interchangeable parts.

Thanks so much.

HOpe to have car on road soon and visiting Cinncinati this summer.

Don't know what I would do without this.

Look forward to meeting Knut another prof in Cinn.

Thanks again guys.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:26:27 +0000
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Subject: Re: DML: Number of questions

Ron wrote,

) Also need two exhaust manifolds to go with my rebuilt engine. Any way to
) acquire one without paying $350 each from dmc in Houston?

I just happen to have a pair. Make me an offer.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 16:10:14 -0500
From: Marc A Levy (malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com)
Subject: Re: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98

This is how my car ran without the O2 sensor, and timing contols (The
were removed when the Turbos were put on).  2 years ago when Rob Grady
replaced the O2 sensor, and ignition timing controls, problem was gone!

Your O2 sensor may be shot.

Marc


James Espey wrote:
) 
) VIN 6776 has been in my possession for a few days now and I've had the

(SNIP)
) 
) Biggest mechanical issue is an idle problem that is slowly driving me
) nuts. At all times, the idle fluctuates between 700 and 1400 RPM
) (approximately) - up and down and up and down. At times on the "down"
) end, the oil pressure light will flash. Anyone experienced this before?
) Idle speed regulator or something else more/less sinister? Seems to run a
) little rich, too, but not so much since it's been run a bit. Related or
) not?
) 
) James

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 16:04:06 -0500
From: Marc A Levy (malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com)
Subject: Re: DML: Turbochargers

I think those were my pictures... Wow! Someone looked at them!

Anyway, The reason I posed the pictures was with hopes that I had spoken
to Lee about making a improvement on the intake, because the current
setup does pull air in from across the exhaust manifold.

I am told there are inter coolers available, but was also told they do
not make a whole heck of a lot of difference.  The turbos are limited to
6Lbs of boost to prevent engine damage anyway.

The best set up I have seen is the Legend Twin Turbo setup where the
turbos hook up to a manifold that replaces the air box.  The engine I
saw had small ail cleaners attached right next to the Turbo's, then the
turbos connected to a manifold that went over the entire engine, and
forced the air in to where the current air box is.

The legend engine itself (i am told, by Rob Grady) had forged pistons,
molly coated rings, and a list of other modifications to handle the
added boost.  The output was supposed to be in excess of 300HP??

I think of it this way, you are not going to get a significant increase
in power without a major engine overhaul with expensive parts.  So the
current configuration is the best bang for the buck!  It could use some
modifications, such as a replacement air intake that gets cold air from
the outside of the engine compartment!  

Even with the outdated design, I am still happy with the added
performance, and I am glad I have them!


Matt Peak wrote:
) 
) I was looking on the internet at the posted pictures of the twin-turbo
(SNIP)
) Matt Peak

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 16:06:20 -0500
From: Marc A Levy (malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com)
Subject: Re: DML: Long Block in Houston?

V-8?  Why would you think that?

Long Block usualy refers to what is included in the engine.  So, this
would indicate that it includes the heads where as a short block usualy
does not.

At least that is what I always thought!


Matt Peak wrote:
) 
) I noticed that DMC Houston is selling a long block engine (listed on their
) web site) for $4875.  I presume this is a V-8, but does anybody know the
) details? (Warren?)
) 
) Matt Peak

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 11:53:58 -0800
From: "tomcio" (tomcio(AT)goplay.com)
Subject: RE: DML: Status of VIN 6776 - 2/27/98

Hi,
from what you described here I might have an idea of what it might be. I 
used to own an '88 Eagle Premier which uses very similar engine to that 
found in the DeLorean. As far as I know it's the same B28F with some 
modifications and updates. My Eagle started behaving the same way as your 
D. The rpm on idle used to go from about 500 to about 1500. Sometimes it 
even used to stall at idle speeds. Computer diagnostics did not show any 
problems. My friend is a car mechanic and he said that I should replace 
the MOP sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor). That cured the 
problem right away, and it never happend again. Try replacing the MOP 
sensor and let me know how it's doing. Hope this helps.
Tom vin # 6298


James Espey (espey(AT)dmcnews.com) wrote on Friday February 27, 1998 at  
8:53am:
)Biggest mechanical issue is an idle problem that is slowly driving me 
)nuts. At all times, the idle fluctuates between 700 and 1400 RPM 
)(approximately) - up and down and up and down. At times on the "down" 
)end, the oil pressure light will flash. Anyone experienced this before? 
)Idle speed regulator or something else more/less sinister? Seems to run a 
)little rich, too, but not so much since it's been run a bit. Related or 
)not?
)
)James

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 20:54:14 EST
From: KKoncelik (KKoncelik(AT)aol.com)
Subject: DML: Accumulator

I have had my first problem with my D in over two years so it may as well 
be a
common one and it is.  I have a bad accumulator.  I bought a new one and 
found
the one in the car easy enough.  The four main screws and the hose to the
engine removed easy enough but I have no chance of removing the right 
angle
fitting from the metal tubing or the accumulator.  I'm using a small 3" 
17mm
cut down wrench and its too large to swing far enough to even budge the 
nut.
Its easy to see and to get the wrench on but whoever designed it in that
location should be shot.  I'm sure I can get it if I keep working at it 
but
there must be an easier way that I'm missing.  Even my Jag doesn't tease 
you
as much as this one.  It looks so simple  and I'm sure once the nut cracks
loose it will be.  I've tried it with and without the bracket on and my 
car is
very clean and there is no rust , dirt or anything else on the parts.

I'm sure someone out there has found a better way to remove it than I am. 
 And
yes the car is far enough off the ground to reach it easily.

Thanks 

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 00:08:03 -0600
From: "Jameel Ahed" (ahed(AT)uiuc.edu)
Subject: DML: apology and a warning...

Dear DML,
    I must apologize to Kayo Ong and any others that were offended by the
vulgarity of my web site.  It is rated the same as Back To The Future
"PG".

http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/delorean.html

Jameel Ahed CEO of CyberTECH Industries
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions
HOMEPAGE:  http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/
VOITECH:  http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL:  mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 23:59:09 -0800
From: "lseiler(AT)radiance.com" (lseiler(AT)radiance.com)
Subject: DML: March Reservations

Delorean 1/24th Model Kit Commission

Reservations

For all of you interested in the progress of DeLorean Model
Commissions here is the current progress.


	There will only be 100 of these models available as commissioned art
work. The assorted donor kits and resource materials simply are
unavailable  to create more than 100+15. Of this number there are now 6
24Kt Gold issues.


	The 24Kt Gold and the Chrome metal film has been purchased to create the
metal skins for the models. Pictures of both versions will be available
some time next week....watch the DML for an announcement.


	The Reservation list is full with 13 stand by names. This last week, two
slots opened and two people on the waiting list moved on the active
Reservation List. (Any one still interested should send e-mail to
lseiler(AT)radiance.com, with: e-mail/name, US mailing address, Vin and
Plate numbers.)	One Stainless issue will be auctioned off at this fall's
DMC 98 LA DOA affair. I understand it will be a dollar raffle deal? I
suspect there will be an announcement from the DOA with details.


	The commission is now a three issue deal. The first is body and
interior, wheels: doors, hood rear decks work, with stainless
(chrome)/Gold metal skins. Part two is a detailed engine. That can be
installed in the commissioned model or displayed separately. The third
part will be the frame and suspension. Hear again the body and engine can
be installed on the frame. At this point I feel we go from a model to a
replica. The reason for breaking up the kits in this way is to keep the
cost down, given some unexpected legal expenses, Get the model kits out
sooner, and to provide a higher detail quality. All the major detailing
is being created threw hand work, not mass production injection molding.
This takes time, so in order to get things rolling now and not next Dec,
the commissioned kit has become three kits. Body and interior (with
wheels etc), engine and transmission, Frame and suspension.

The engine and frames will be miniature replicas of their full size
counterparts.


 


	There are two problems that still need a bit of help. the following
e-mail address have repeatedly been bounced by the Internet. if you find
your self on this short list you should contact me by e-mail.


short list:


011	((syocom(AT)mitchellco.com,

012	((reedted(AT)netcom.com,

021	((calypso(AT)tld2.tld.net,

046	((goat999(AT)azstarnet.com,

065	 ((stimpy(AT)wans.net,

075	((syocom(AT)mitchellco.com

099*	((emoreau(AT)juno.com,

100	((TREKFANNJ(AT)aol.com,



The above reservation holders can not receive their reservations until I
have mailing address. Need I say more?



One final item. I need a bit of help! In order to create the engine for
the 81 DMC I need photos of the engines. The ones I now have are helpful,
but I need many more. I am looking for some one who has an engine I can
photograph. I would be happy to drive to any location where I can get the
photos. I am located in Berkeley near San Francisco Bay in California. If
you have an engine out of the car, and out of the frame, and you would be
willing to let me take some photos please let me know by e-mail at:
lseiler(AT)radiance.com or call me at AC 510-649-9118 any time 24 hours a
day. In return I would be willing to give FREE one of the Engine kits. I
would like to take the photos in the 3rd week in March if possible.


Thanks

Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:03:14 EST
From: KKoncelik (KKoncelik(AT)aol.com)
Subject: DML: update on accumulator

Last night I summoned the dmcnews list for help on an accumulator
installation.  After not being able to sleep knowing a car was beating me 
at
something I went out to the garage at 4:00 AM and AFTER CAREFUL THOUGHT,  
AT
LEAST TWO MINUTES, CUT OFF MY SHORT WRENCH TO ABOUT 2 1/2 INCHES AND 
FINALLY
GOT IT ON THE NUT.  MY PROBLEM WAS THAT A REGULAR WRENCH MAY HAVE BEEN 
ABLE TO
BE USED BUT THE ANGLE THE NUT WAS TURNED WAS EXACTLY WRONG.  I LOOSENED 
BUT
DID NOT REMOVE THE ACCUMULATOR BRACKET THEN FOUND MYSELF NOT ABLE TO 
BREAK THE
FUEL NUT LOOSE ON THE FUEL ACCUMULATOR.  I THEN HAD THE SAWED OFF END OF 
THE
WRENCH WHERE I COULD GET A 9/16 DEEPWALL ON THE SAWED OFF END AND EXTEND 
IT
12" SO I HAD SOME LEVERAGE.  THAT DID THE TRICK.  OFF IT CAME AND THE NEW 
ONE
WENT IN EASY.  FOR ANYONE TRYING THIS DO WATCH YOU DON'T TWIST THE FUEL 
LINE
IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL IT WILL HAPPEN THATS WHY THE BRACKET LEFT ON WORKED
GOOD  BUT I HAD TO LOOSEN IT.
NO WONDER THIS CAR COST SO MUCH ITS  A REAL TEASE TO WORK ON.
AS I SAID LAST NIGH IT IS VERY SIMPLE WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT BUT UNLESS YOU 
HAVE
A CHILDS HANDS AND JACKHAMMER STRENGTH OH BOY ARE YOU IN FOR A REAL TREAT.

TOTAL TIME INCLUDING FRUSTRATION 2 1/2 HOURS
REAL CONSTRUCTIVE TIME 15 MINUTES.

GOOD LUCK TO ANYONE ELSE ON THIS ONE.

AND YES THE D RUNS FINE NOW

KEN
MY (A HREF="HTTP://IDT.NET/~DMC1219")WEB PAGE(/A)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:26:19 -0600
From: scottmueller(AT)zebra.net (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Accumulator

KKoncelik wrote:
) 
  The four main screws and the hose to the
) engine removed easy enough but I have no chance of removing the right
) angle
) fitting from the metal tubing or the accumulator.  I'm using a small 3"
) 17mm
) cut down wrench and its too large to swing far enough to even budge the
) nut.
) Its easy to see and to get the wrench on but whoever designed it in that
) location should be shot.  I'm sure I can get it if I keep working at it
) but
) there must be an easier way that I'm missing. 
) 
) Ken

Ken, When I removed my accumulator, all it took was super human strength
to break the fittings loose.  Try some penetrating oil and a lot of
patience.  Sorry I don't have an easy solution for you.
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 10:33:23 EST
From: ROBLAMROCK (ROBLAMROCK(AT)aol.com)
Subject: Re: DML: DMC mags

) I remember hearing somewhere that there are some articles about DMCs in
) magazines such as Road and Track (i think). does anyone know the exact
) magazines (issue #s or dates)? this information would be greatly
) appreciated!
) 
) thanks!
) (-illyana-)
) 

Magazines:	All have either articles or pictures regarding DMC or JZD.
              :	Road & Track: 7/77 ,  6/81 ,  12/81 ,   4/82 .
               :	Motor Trend:   7/77 ,  9/77 ,  5/81 ,  6/81 ,  12/81 ,  
4/82
,  7/82 .
               :	Car & Driver:   7/77 ,  5/81 ,  7/81  12/81 ,  7/82 ,  
1/86 .
                :	Pontiac:  2/94 JZD interview re: "Pontiac days" (AT) GM.	  

Best wishes,
Robert Lamrock

------------------------------

End of dmcnews-digest V3 #334
*****************************


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