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Friday, 19 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 143
In this issue:
Re: Wiring of Craig Radio
Dome light comes on in hard corners
Center Console Removal - Tomorrow
Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
Re: Center Console Removal - Tomorrow
Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
Loose housings on my original shocks
Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
Re: Center Console Removal - Tomorrow
Stereo
Re[2]: Ka-Jing! Ka-jing! From the front suspension
Re: Loose housings on my original shocks
Ultimate Car Places
Re: Shocks on Lowered Cars
Re: Ka-Jing! Ka-jing! From the front suspension
DOA NATIONAL ACCOMODATIONS
Re: Shocks on Lowered Cars
Ramblings about Stereos
1982 VIN range
Speedo maintenance
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:09:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Wiring of Craig Radio
>I removed the unit and checked the dealer service manual to trace
>the power supply. The manual says there are two fusable links
>inline with the radio.
>
>I cannot seem to locate these fusable links. The only "links" or
>fuses I can find are those in the fuse block. The shrink wrapped
>wires inline with the radio was some kind of circuit board I was not
>familiar with and the schematic did not seem to show it.
Chris:
I took the original Craig radio out of my car in the spring. From what I
remember the shrink wrapped circuit board is before the nine pin plastic
connector for the wiring harness. If you trace these wires back beyond the
beige harness connector, eventually you will find two fuses about six to
12
inches beyond. I believe one is a 10 amp fuse, while the other is an
English fuse that is the equivalent of about a 3 amp American fuse (which
is slightly longer but still works). If I was you, I'd go ahead and
replace
both glass fuses with new ones while you are back there.
Get in touch with me if you have any questions about this or the procedure
to get behind the centre console.
~ Chase '81 DeLorean VIN#1529
------------------------------
From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:45:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Dome light comes on in hard corners
This has happened to me a couple of times.
I just wanted to see if anyone else ran into this.
When I take a quick right turn my dome light occasionally
will turn on. It then will time-out after about 15 sec.
I have cleaned the "fridge light" switch, but now I'm starting
to wonder if the problem might be the drivers door.
The light only goes on during hard RIGHT turns or after hitting
large pot holes in the road.
While looking at the open door from the front of the car,
I notice that the hook that locks around the post appears to be wearing.
Could this be my problem? It doesn't really look THAT bad.
The reason I started thinking it could be the door is because of the
constant rattle, but that really sounded to me like it was the linkage
inside the door.
SWITCH or DOOR?
... and what the hell is that rattle inside the door?
Best Regards,
Jeff Frailey
PS With out the stereo working yet,
those little rattles are driving me nuts.
I commute 1.25 hours.
------------------------------
From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:46:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Center Console Removal - Tomorrow
Hi all you live list listeners,
I plan on putting in a new stereo Thursday (tomorrow).
I found some old friends who install car stereos full time,
and they're going to help me out.
I saw that someone in this news group a while back
asked for directions to remove the center console./?
If anyone has some info. about this could you forward me
a copy. I'd feel much more comfortable having some experienced
opinions before we get started.
Thanks
jfrailey(AT)niia.net
------------------------------
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01, Don_Gowler-CFPO01(AT)email.mot.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:16:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
The rattle comes from the door mechanism linkage arms as you suspected.
You can
get in there and wrap them with a light sponge to stop them.
The Silver Fox
___________________________________________________________________________
____
Subject: Dome light comes on in hard corners
From: dmcnews-approval(AT)world.std.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
Date: 7/17/96 3:45 PM
This has happened to me a couple of times.
I just wanted to see if anyone else ran into this.
[SNIP]
The reason I started thinking it could be the door is because of the
constant rattle, but that really sounded to me like it was the linkage
inside the door.
SWITCH or DOOR?
... and what the hell is that rattle inside the door?
Best Regards,
Jeff Frailey
PS With out the stereo working yet,
those little rattles are driving me nuts.
I commute 1.25 hours.
------------------------------
From: Marvin S.Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:16:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Center Console Removal - Tomorrow
Jeff, Frailey(AT)facteur.std.com, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net wrote:
>
> Hi all you live list listeners,
>
> I plan on putting in a new stereo Thursday (tomorrow).
>
> I found some old friends who install car stereos full time,
> and they're going to help me out.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> jfrailey(AT)niia.net
Unless you have a specific reason you do not have to remove the console
to install a new radio. The center AC vents should be removed, the ducts
disconnected and the old radio comes out through the opening. If you
are planning to install a DIN opening radio instead of the old fashioned
two shaft variety you're going to have to cut the opening in the steel
plate that is behind the panel that holds the current radio and climate
controls. I think that Alpine still has one or two 2 shaft models, the
only problem with Alpine is that you will have to use an amplifier but
you can hide that behind the glove box.
Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:16:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
>When I take a quick right turn my dome light occasionally
>will turn on. It then will time-out after about 15 sec.
...
>The light only goes on during hard RIGHT turns or after hitting
>large pot holes in the road.
...
>The reason I started thinking it could be the door is because of the
>constant rattle, but that really sounded to me like it was the linkage
>inside the door.
Jeff:
I use to have the same problem with a Nissan 200SX always saying the door
was open in tight corners even though it wasn't. On my DeLorean, the
open-door sensor on the left side is slightly bent and sometimes doesn't
activate the lights when I open that door. This normally would not be a
big
deal, but since my alarm senses current flow, this turns out to be a bad
thing. This switch is most likely the cause of the problem in your car,
unless...
When closing your door, do you hear both door latches activate at the same
time? If not, you probably have a door alignment problem. Mine are out of
alignment and often the rear portion of the driver's door doesn't close
completely and I get a rattling from the slight movement of the door as I
drive it. Both of these symptoms could cause the striker post to wear. And
if the front of the door isn't closed completely, it could activate the
light periodically.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Blarness(AT)aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 12:27:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Loose housings on my original shocks
Marv Wrote in responce to the noise in my front
suspension:
>"I have the same noise but it is coming from
>a loose housing on my front shocks ... the Girlings
>are really bad news."
I respond with:
So... can these "loose housings" be tightened?
Anyone?
Somone else mentioned to me the other day they
thought my shocks may be making that noise.
- -C2
#3876
------------------------------
From: Marvin S.Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 12:29:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
Jeff, Frailey(AT)facteur.std.com, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net wrote:
>
> This has happened to me a couple of times.
> I just wanted to see if anyone else ran into this.
>
> When I take a quick right turn my dome light occasionally
> will turn on. It then will time-out after about 15 sec.
>[SNIP]
> The reason I started thinking it could be the door is because of the
> constant rattle, but that really sounded to me like it was the linkage
> inside the door.
>
> SWITCH or DOOR?
> ... and what the hell is that rattle inside the door?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jeff Frailey
>
Your light problem may be because the shaft on the light switch is not
securely hitting the door, there is supposed to be a rubber nipple on
the shaft. I gave up on the rubber nipple a used a length of small
diameter rubber tubing slipped over the shaft to make it long enough to
firmly hit the door and turn off the light.
As for your noise in the door, mine came from a screw driver that was
left inside.
Good luck,
Marv Sterling vin 16000 '83
------------------------------
From: Dan Berglund, gonzo(AT)nwlink.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 18:41:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Center Console Removal - Tomorrow
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996 Marvin.S.Sterling(AT)europe.std.com wrote:
> controls. I think that Alpine still has one or two 2 shaft models, the
> only problem with Alpine is that you will have to use an amplifier but
> you can hide that behind the glove box.
> Regards,
> Marv Sterling
I am pretty sure that Kenwood also has some two shaft Radio's that even
have CD Changer controls...
Dan Berglund
------------------------------
From: Bradley J.Otoupalik, otoupalik(AT)pobox.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 18:42:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Stereo
Not to start a whole long thread, but I need help. I know that
these questions have all been answered, yet I am hoping to get all of your
help so that I can get the answers as soon as possible so that I can enjoy
some good sounds. You see, my stock head unit is starting to go south,
so I
want to get a new one with some new speakers before it dies, so that I can
put it back in for originality (my D is one of the very first, so
originality is important).
What I need to know is what size speakers go where, what tools are
needed, and how much space is available in the dash for a head unit (how
deep, that is).
You can e-mail me privately or through the list. Thank you.
Bradley J. Otoupalik
Vice President & Senior Editor
All Auto Online Magazine
http://www.hway.net/aao/mainmenu.html
e-mail: aao.otoupalik(AT)pobox.com
------------------------------
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01, Don_Gowler-CFPO01(AT)email.mot.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 18:42:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re[2]: Ka-Jing! Ka-jing! From the front suspension
Message authorized by:
: Marvin.S.Sterling(AT)facteur.std.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
: marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
Marv, if you have lowered the front end on your car you may find that the
original Girling shock is now actually physically too long and has too
short of
a stroke to do a proper job. I found mine bottoming out to the point
where it
ruined them - I lowered my front end close to 2 inches. What you need is
a
physically shorter shock that has a longer stroke and thats what a NAPA
94037
Gas Charged Deluxe HD shock has. You will find that the bottom mounting
of this
shock will need spacers on each side to fill up the gaps it leaves in the
lower
suspension arm. You can get them made up (2 for each shock) or just use
several
washers on each side of the mounting bushing. Also the bolt dimension
for the
bushing is 1/2 inch so you will have to get two new bolt and nuts but
they will
fit into the 12mm metric holes on the lower arms very nicely - not too
loose.
Good luck, The Silver Fox
___________________________________________________________________________
____
Subject: Re: Ka-Jing! Ka-jing! From the front suspension
From: dmcnews-approval(AT)world.std.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
Date: 7/17/96 8:26 AM
I have the same noise but it is coming from a loose housing on my front
shocks ... the Girlings are really bad news. Does anyone have any
experience with another brand of shock absorber ?
Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: Marvin S.Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:22:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Loose housings on my original shocks
Blarness(AT)aol.com wrote:
>
> Marv Wrote in responce to the noise in my front
> suspension:
> >"I have the same noise but it is coming from
> >a loose housing on my front shocks ... the Girlings
> >are really bad news."
>
>
> I respond with:
> So... can these "loose housings" be tightened?
>
> Anyone?
>
> Somone else mentioned to me the other day they
> thought my shocks may be making that noise.
>
> -C2
> #3876
Answer: No! If you want the noise to go away install new shocks.
Marv
------------------------------
From: aerostar(AT)ccia.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:23:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Ultimate Car Places
If you are a subscriber to {AutoWeek} you probably know about this
supplement that came out this year for the first time. I'm not a
subscriber, but someone just passed it along to me.
*AutoWeek's Ultimate Car Places*
{First Ever Car Insiders Guide to Absolutely Everything}
- -Discover New Hideouts and Hangouts
- -Cruise Nights and Auto Tours
- -Museums You Can't Miss
etc.
There is some really great info here; well organised into region.
No mention on the DeLorean Meet, though. They did mention Annabelle's
Diner in Mentor, OH. Have any of you guys in NE Ohio parked your
stainless
steel car in front of a stainless diner yet?
There was also a mention of a Web Page (www.autoweek.com) that I have not
checked out yet, so I'm not sure how much info can be found there yet.
Eric Friedebach aerostar(AT)ccia.com
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:55:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Shocks on Lowered Cars
I also have a lowered DeLorean, but don't have any Ka-Jing! noises at the
moment. But then who knows what the future holds. I know the car was meant
to be a lowered height and that it was changed at the last minute, but it
looks to me like there are rub marks in my fender wheels where the tires
are bouncing up too high and hitting the fiberglass substructure. I don't
think they are suppose to do this originally, nor is it a good thing.
Opinions from anyone else on if I should be concerned? And if so what do I
need to do to solve this problem?
While I'm in the general area, that "clunk" from the rear wheel bearings
and "clicking" from the rear brakes are also annoying. Anyone have any
solutions for either item? If so I'd love to know for inclusion in the
Common Faults FAQ.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Marvin S.Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:55:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Ka-Jing! Ka-jing! From the front suspension
Don, Gowler-CFPO01(AT)facteur.std.com, Don_Gowler-CFPO01(AT)email.mot.com
wrote:
>
> Message authorized by:
> : Marvin.S.Sterling(AT)facteur.std.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
> : marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
>
> Marv, if you have lowered the front end on your
>
>
>
> Good luck, The Silver Fox
>
- ------------------------divider
Thanks for the info but I have not lowered the D, it's as original as
the day that I took it ftom the dealer; however, it's the plastic
housing or cover that breaks and get compressed each time you hit a pot
hole and in New York City our roads, for the most part are pot holes
interspersed with spots of good pavement. I do believe that it was HD
(?) that advertised the replacement shocks ... I'm going to have to go
back through my DeLorean World mag's and check on the company. Oh well !
Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01, Don_Gowler-CFPO01(AT)email.mot.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 11:31:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: DOA NATIONAL ACCOMODATIONS
Anyone still interested in going to the National Convention that missed
the
Hotel accomodations deadline might want to call Guy Avellon at (847)
487-0203 as
he has an opportunity to secure nearby suites at $95 per night.
------------------------------
From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 11:51:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Shocks on Lowered Cars
At 10:55 AM 7/19/96 -0400, you wrote:
>While I'm in the general area, that "clunk" from the rear wheel bearings
>and "clicking" from the rear brakes are also annoying. Anyone have any
>solutions for either item? If so I'd love to know for inclusion in the
>Common Faults FAQ.
>
>~ Chase
- ---------------------------------------------
Concerning the "clicking" noise.
It might be from the pads vibrating around in their small space.
I know the calipars are supposed to be self adjusting...
I'm just passing along a theory I heard.
PJ Grady has these little clips that act as springs. They attach to the
pins
that go thru your brake pads. The spring action is supposed to keep the
pads
from rattling around in their small space.
I don't know how valid this product is, but they came with my new brake
parts.
In theory they seem o.k. I installed all new brake system before I ever
drove my
car, so I cannot attest to the before and after differences.
A different variation of a spring also exists for the front brake
assembly.
Good luck,
Jeff Frailey
------------------------------
From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:33:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Ramblings about Stereos
Just a few words about what I learned while installing my stereo...
OK so its a more than a few words.
First, Thanks to all who answer my questions
and gave advice on installation.
Yesterday I removed the entire center counsole
and installed a Alpine 7832 in dash CD player.
I concluded that if you are replacing your existing
radio with another shaft-type stereo that you do
NOT need to remove the center counsol... but you better
have friends with small hands. The radio can be removed
thru the hole for the vents after you remove them.
(recommended by - I don't remember who)
If you are installing a full faced unit
(DIN? - without posts or shaft knobs),
Then you will be best off removing the center counsole
so that you can cut a larger opening in the face plate.
By the way, it will be a tight fit, but not so tight that
you risk braking anything.
Don't forget to replace those little light bulbs behind the
climate control face plate. I had one go bad, as I was putting
the last screw back in the center counsole.
I was also very worried about space behind the dash.
So I was very careful to find a head unit that was not too deep.
As I saw yesterday, there was plenty of room for most stereos
in that dash. I would still steer away from those 9" deep in dash
CD changers.
But my unit is over 6" deep and fits fine.
WE'RE STILL TALKING STEREOS HERE!
While under the dash I could see the 3.5" front speakers and
don't think that they will be too tough to replace (next project).
Estimate 25 minutes.
The rear speakers will be tougher to get too,
and I'm pretty sure they are 4" X 6".
NOTE that oval speakers never have as good of sound as
round speakers with the same surface area (think physics).
Infinity now sells replacement speakers for 4" X 6" speaker holes
that are actually 2 round speakers mounted into a plastic mold.
This is what I'm probably going to do.
If you're like me and you don't want to get into the world of
amplifiers and kicker bass speakers. I would then recommend
some of the newer head units like mine that have 35 Watts x 4.
These units have enough power to over-come most road noise without
the added investment of amplifiers. Of course for that much $$$$
the stereo should have jacks for added components.
AND finally, I now have an original Craig radio from an '81 Vin #6866
that
hasn't been hooked up since 1988.
I tested the tape deck - ok, the speaker outputs - ok, and the radio - ok.
I have yet to see the display work, and I'm assuming the thin ribbon cable
is broke - unvarified at this time. Any help understanding the wiring
of this beast would be appreciated.
I will also be removing the original speakers from the car in a week or
so.
Anyone interested in this stuff?
~Jeff Frailey
------------------------------
From: James Espey, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:10:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1982 VIN range
General thought is that 1126 DeLoreans were built for the 1982 model year.
I own 10570, a prodigy member owns 10122 and a DOA board member owns
11566. Assuming that 10122 is the first one (though i hear they started
with 10000) and 11566 is the last one, 11566-10122 = 1444, far more than
1126 unless they were (obviously)
skipping numbers. Anyone know why they might skip numbers?
James
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny, SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:11:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Speedo maintenance
Oh, rapture! My DeLorean should be back on the road this
afternoon! I was going crazy without it!
Before I drive it to Nashville, I'd like to feel confident about my
speedo cable and angle drive. I remember someone (K.G.?)
saying theirs went kaflooey on last year's trip. At 50,000
miles mine has never failed nor been replaced. What should
I do to keep it that way? I can understand how heat buildup
on a long trip could do more damage that hundreds of short
trips if there is a lubrication issue. Does an occasional squirt
of WD40 behind the left front wheel do any good at all? Do I
need to remove it to lubricate it?
Thanks for any advice you can give.
- -Mike Substelny
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #143
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