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Monday, 22 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 144
In this issue:
skipping numbers
Down came the rain and washed the spider out....
Elimination of Rear Axle Clunk
Starter Relay Modification
Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
How do you shop for a DeLorean?
Aftermarket Stereo's.
Re: DOA NATIONAL ACCOMODATIONS
dome lite switch solution, adjust door latch
Re: How do you shop for a DeLorean?
Re: Aftermarket Stereo's.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Damien Falato, dgf108(AT)psu.edu
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:20:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: skipping numbers
" Anyone know why they might skip numbers?"
I could easily be wrong on this, but I heard a theory about it at
Williamsburg. As the theory goes the factory set certain vin numbers to
build each day. If the build numbers wern't used up by the end of that
day,
they weren't used at all. This might explain why there are huge gaps in
factory numbering, to account for down time.
Any feedback on the legitamacy of this one?
------------------------------
From: AlphaWolf, awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:20:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Down came the rain and washed the spider out....
Just a note, if you're going to be lubricating an area that may possibly
be exposed to moisture in it's life...
Unless you fancy relubricating every few minutes, do not use WD40. WD40
is water soluble and tends to dilute and wash away. (Nevermind that it
doesn't
do all that good a job when it's there.)
From my experience, ZEP45, DuraLube, and other lubricants of that nature
work excellently. ZEP45 if a teflon based lubricant, I believe, and
would
probably be your best choice if you can find it.
AlphaWolf
------------------------------
From: Raymond Haug, Raymond_Haug(AT)lamg.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:20:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Elimination of Rear Axle Clunk
Chase,
One possible cause of the "rear axle clunk" you mentioned could be caused
by
the sliding motion of the outboard drive shaft inside the bearing race,
located in the hub carrier, which is not moving freely due to lack of
lubrication. When you go around a corner the shaft suddenly breaks free
and
makes a "clunk" moving against the bearing race. Simple fix is to squirt
a
teflon lubricant like ZEP 45 in the hub carrier. I had the problem and
this
solved the problem for me.
The entire procedure is explained with photos on page 31 of DeLorean World
Volume 3 Number 4 (the issue with the Twin Turbocharged Engine on the
cover). The same issue includes a great article on adjustment of the Door
Torsion Bar with numerous photos showing Don Steger going through the
procedure. It may help in your previous inquiry.
DeLorean World back issues are available to all Members of the DeLorean
Owners Association for $12.50 per issue, 6 issues for $50, 12 issues with
a
binder for $100, and the complete set of over 40 issues and 3 binders for
$335. Check out the DeLoran Owners Home Page at "www.delorean-owners.org"
for information on ordering DeLorean World and other Association
Products.
You may also call or FAX your order to 818-547-3638.
Ray Haug, raymond_haug(AT)lamg
Chapter 12 Coordinator
DeLorean Owners Association
Southern California Area
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:20:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Starter Relay Modification
This information is a direct quote of DMC Service Bulletin Number
ST-05-2/82.
On early vehicles (prior to V.I.N. 2547), the starter solenoid's operating
voltage, in certain conditions, was not high enough to ensure a
consistent,
reliable operation. This condition was displayed by a voltage drop
characteristic in the main wiring harness on vehicles with slightly
discharged batteries. To correct this condition a starter circuit
modification was introduced into production starting at V.I.N. 2548.
This condition is generally displayed by a clicking noise at the solenoid
without any starter cranking. If this symptom is encountered on vehicles
prior to V.I.N. 2547 the following modification procedure should be
performed:
1. With ignition switch off, remove the relay compartment access panel
behind the passenger's seat.
2. Partially remove the relay strip containing the starter relay.
3. Disconnect the white/yellow pigtail jumper wire from its relay terminal
(#86). Cut and move the jumper from its white/red wire conenctor (Figure
1).
4. Disconnect the white/red wire (which had the pigtail jumper removed in
Step 3) from terminal #30/51 and connect to terminal #86 (Figure 2).
5. Using 14 gauge brown wire, assemble a 12 inch jumper wire with two (2)
suitable female receptacles.
NOTE: One of the female receptacles must have a locking barb for a
positive
connection.
6. Connect one end of the brown jumper to terminal #30/51 of the starter
relay (Figure 2). Connect the other terminal with the locking barb to the
battery side of the 25 amp from speed circuit breaker.
NOTE: This circuit breaker has three (3) brown wires with an open terminal
on its battery side.
7. Position and secure the relay panel, replace the access cover and
charge
the battery if necessary.
FIGURE 1 - BEFORE MODIFICATION:
|
WHITE/RED | --------
(FROM IGNITION SWITCH) ----------->| / \
|/ \
----------------- |<--- WHITE/YELLOW
| --|-- | | JUMPER
| 30/51 | | |
| | /
| | | | /
-------------|---| |---|--
^ | 85| 87A |86 |
WHITE/YELLOW / | ----- |
(TO NEUTRAL SAFETY / | ----- |
SWITCH AND GROUND) / | 87| |
-----------------
|
|
|<------ WHITE/RED
| (TO STARTER SOLENOID)
FIGURE 2 - AFTER MODIFICATION:
14 GA. BROWN JUMPER | |
(TO FAN SPEED | |
CIRCUIT BREAKER ----------->| |
| |
----------------- |<--- WHITE/RED
| --|-- | | (FROM IGNITION
SWITCH)
| 30/51 | | |
| | /
| | | | /
-------------|---| |---|--
^ | 85| 87A |86 |
WHITE/YELLOW / | ----- |
(TO NEUTRAL SAFETY / | ----- |
SWITCH AND GROUND) / | 87| |
-----------------
|
|
|<------ WHITE/RED
| (TO STARTER SOLENOID)
------------------------------
From: Richard Strecker, dmc1219(AT)eos.eos.net
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:28:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Dome light comes on in hard corners
Jeff,
The problem is in fact the door. If you will purchase a package of
vacuum tube caps - look at the door light switch shaft to get an idea of
the size that you will need. Take one of the caps and slip it over the
switch shaft. this will extend the shaft enough to eliminate the
problem. The alternative is to adjust the door latch.
Best of luck!
Richard
------------------------------
From: Richard Pietrafesa Jr, murphy6(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:28:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: How do you shop for a DeLorean?
Having not been able to afford one when they were original, I now again
have the itch for a DeLorean. However, I have found my search
frustrating.
Cars are fairly well dispursed throughout the country. Many owners
don't know a lot about their cars, so getting info over the phone is
difficult. Two that I saw were not as represented, so I wasted two days
and two long trips.
Is there a better way to go about this? Does the digest list cars for
sale somewhere that I'm missing it? I would appreciate some help - I'd
like to become an official member of this group!
------------------------------
From: mal(AT)hocpa.ho.att.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:28:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Aftermarket Stereo's.
From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:33:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Ramblings about Stereos
While under the dash I could see the 3.5" front speakers and
don't think that they will be too tough to replace (next project).
Estimate 25 minutes.
The rear speakers will be tougher to get too,
and I'm pretty sure they are 4" X 6".
NOTE that oval speakers never have as good of sound as
round speakers with the same surface area (think physics).
Infinity now sells replacement speakers for 4" X 6" speaker holes
that are actually 2 round speakers mounted into a plastic mold.
This is what I'm probably going to do.
I used to install stereo's, but have not yet worked on getting the
delorean
to sound good.
I am told that the back speakers are 4X10, the same as the old GM style
speakers. It's hard to find a 4X10 these days, no less a good one. The
rear panels are a real pain in the ass to remove. You have to heat them
up
because they are glued in. If you don't, you risk cracking the panel.
There is no reason you should not be able to fit a 4X6 in this place,
but
you should cover the rest of the hole with plastic or wood to improve the
sound quality.
I have been planing a stereo for a year or so now. My plan is to replace
the head with a CD player, and build a custom box to fit under the back
window that will include a woofer or two, and some 6.5 with separate
tweeters. Amplifiers mounted to the top of the box.
I would be interested in any information you have on getting the center
console out in one piece without any damage.
Thanks,
Marc
malevy(AT)lucent.com
------------------------------
From: James Espey, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 18:17:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: DOA NATIONAL ACCOMODATIONS
Don Gowler wrote:
>Anyone still interested in going to the National Convention that missed the
>Hotel accomodations deadline might want to call Guy Avellon at (847)
>487-0203 as he has an opportunity to secure nearby suites at $95 per night.
THE HOTEL ACCOMODATIONS DEADLINE AT OPRYLAND HAS **NOT** PASSED!
The "early registration" for the DeLorean Owner's Association events
passed on 7/16, BUT the Opryland hotel deadline is not until JULY 29,
1996. In any case, Opryland will still reserve rooms after that date, but
only on a "space-available" basis.
Bear in mind that if you stay at somewhere other than Opryland, each time
you enter Opryland parking facilities, Opryland will charge you $4 as a
non-guest. So, if you come and go four times from Opryland (and you're
not staying there as a registered guest), you'll pay $16.
Room rates at Opryland for DeLorean Owner's Association Expo attendees
range from $119 to $159 for one or two persons. These rooms are normally
$179 to $219, so you can see that this a VERY nice hotel.
Opryland reservations may be made by calling (615) 889-1000. For the
reduced room rates, be sure to mention that you are with the DeLorean
Owner's Association meeting 8/29 - 9/2.
James
------------------------------
From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 00:28:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: dome lite switch solution, adjust door latch
A couple of people have recomended similar
solutions for lengthening the shaft in the
door's dome lite switch. Thanks for the advice,
I will definitly try that soon.
What if... I want to tighten the fit of
the door anyway. I think that first I need to
replace the seals around the door. Anyone
have any ideas as to where I can get those rubber
trim replacements.
ALSO, what options are
available to adjust the door latch, Anyone?
At 05:28 PM 7/20/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Jeff,
>The problem is in fact the door. If you will purchase a package of
>vacuum tube caps - look at the door light switch shaft to get an idea of
>the size that you will need. Take one of the caps and slip it over the
>switch shaft. this will extend the shaft enough to eliminate the
>problem. The alternative is to adjust the door latch.
>
>Best of luck!
>
>Richard
>
>
------------------------------
From: Scott Tester, testersd(AT)appstate.campus.mci.net
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 00:28:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: How do you shop for a DeLorean?
At 05:28 PM 7/20/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Having not been able to afford one when they were original, I now again
>have the itch for a DeLorean. However, I have found my search
>frustrating.
>
>Cars are fairly well dispursed throughout the country. Many owners
>don't know a lot about their cars, so getting info over the phone is
>difficult. Two that I saw were not as represented, so I wasted two days
>and two long trips.
>
>Is there a better way to go about this? Does the digest list cars for
>sale somewhere that I'm missing it? I would appreciate some help - I'd
>like to become an official member of this group!
There are a bunch of Deloreans sitting in garages accross the world
just waiting for a new owner. To give a good example out of Hemmings:
Delorean 1981, 2,000 original miles,
always garaged,Brand new condition.
Steal at $14,000
This is the kind of ad that I hope to respond to someday. If you can
afford one at the present time, now is a great time to buy. Because their
value will only go UP!
Scott Tester testersd(AT)appstate.mci.net
------------------------------
From: Marvin S.Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:29:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Stereo's.
At 05:28 PM 7/20/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>From: Jeff Frailey, jfrailey(AT)NIIA.Net
>Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:33:40 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: Ramblings about Stereos
>
>
>I have been planing a stereo for a year or so now. My plan is to replace
>the head with a CD player, and build a custom box to fit under the back
>window that will include a woofer or two, and some 6.5 with separate
>tweeters. Amplifiers mounted to the top of the box.
>
>I would be interested in any information you have on getting the center
>console out in one piece without any damage.
>
>Thanks,
>Marc
>malevy(AT)lucent.com
>
- ------------------------------divider
I understand that Rob Grady is a step ahead of you and is, or has, already
engineered a drop in unit that replaces the cargo area behind the seats.
Check with him before you spend a lot of time doing something that has
already been done.
Regards,
Marv Sterling vin 16000
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #144
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