Monday, July 27 1998 Volume 03 : Number 392
In this issue:
DML: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
DML: Euro springs and shocks
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
DML: RE: a/c retrofit
DML: performance
DML: Delorean Post Cards?
DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
DML: Re: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
DML: Door ajar light ON ?
Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
DML: 81 Delorean Parting Out
Re: DML: Euro springs and shocks
DML: Fuel
Re: DML: performance
Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Re: DML: DeLorean Expo '98 - Los Angeles
DML: Re: RE: a/c retrofit
DML: [admin] List down until Monday night
Re: DML: New horns are working finally!
DML: found one
Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
DML: RE: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:09:07 -0700 From: Matt Peak <mpeak(AT)ucla.edu> Subject: DML: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
I was wondering if somebody could please send me the recent posting (last 2 months or so) about a certain K&N air filter that can be modified to fit our cars (or at least give me the K&N part number). I'm having trouble finding this in the back issues.
Also, has anybody tried the synthetic oil filter brand "Hard Driver" on the Delorean yet? If so, what model number did you use? I think I've found a model that will successfully work on the Delorean and if nobody on the list has tried it yet, I guess I will be the first.
Many thanks for your replies.
Matt Peak
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:35:41 +0000 From: kenm(AT)compctr.ccs.csus.edu Subject: DML: Euro springs and shocks
Normally, I wouldn't want to be branded as being cheap, but I'm on the verge of replacing my shocks, tires, and while I'm at it, lowering the front of the car. I see the a stock set of front springs are about $88 and the price for all 4 shocks is $245. Now I can understand the price for the springs. but $245 for 4 shocks? Worse yet, for 17 year old stock shocks? Rubber parts and seals just don't last that long no matter how well you store them. Actually, this bothers me more than the price. I would imagine that some amount of progress has been made in the last 17 years in shock technology, or at the least I just don't want to buy old 'new' shocks!
Looking back through the DML archives, I found a reference to Napa gas charged deluxe HD # 94037 for the front shocks. These are also supposed be better for the 'travel' when the front has been lowered.
As to lowering the front, that's all I want to lower. I just want the wheel wells and the bottom to be even. The front it almost exactly 1.5 inches higher than the back at the wheel wells.
So what I need here is some REAL part numbers. Where's the place to go for the right springs (no swapping around.. I only want to replace the fronts), and I really need a place to buy NEW new shocks. Please help?
- ------------------------------------------------------- Ken Montgomery My DeLorean VIN #10911 'OUTTIME' Sacramento, CA kenm(AT)csus.edu "When the wind gets under these wings Operating You will feel what freedom brings" Systems Analyst From 'On-Air' Alan Parsons (916) 278-7646 http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm - -------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:01:46 EDT From: KayoOng(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
Joe,
Optima batteries are manufactured by a firm called Spiralcell Technology. They are a member of the Gylling Group Of Scandinavia which is established in 1912. The Optima Batteries "The Ultimate Starter." 17500 E. 22nd Avenue, Aurora, CO 80011, (303)340-7440 and (303)340-7474 Fax.
They make about 5 different batteries. Two Deep Cycle Batteries available in top and dual post 12 volts, very expensive about $180.00 plus, they are yellow top in color.
Two "Ultimate" batteries available in top and dual post 12 volts, 800 cold cranking amps with 120 minuets reserve capacity. ZERO maintenance free, 100% sealed. They claim over 9,000 starts, installs in any position, stored up to two years and can be shipped anywhere by air. It is red top in color and $140.00
Last for those who need a top post 6 volts "Ultimate" battery, red top, not sure of the price.
I have known about the Optima battery for several years. They are sold in "speed shops," car audio shops, high end automotive shops. I was reluctant and I have avoid these batteries like everything else that is "new."
Fourteen years ago, I was in the retail and wholesale end of the automotive industry for over 10 years. I ran two outlets, and carried many automotive lines and several different major known brands of cars, trucks, motorcycle and boats batteries. Since my involvement with battery manufactures in their return policies and their "rate" of defects, I was reluctant to spend big bucks for the Optima battery. I didn't know how good or reliable they can be.
I recently heard many good things about them through many different sources. Since my battery is over 30 months old, I decided to get my Optima through PJ Grady, a "Ultimate" red top dual post. I now wonder what the Deep Cycle Battery Yellow Top can do? There is a big difference in price between the "Ultimate and the Deep Cycle" batteries and PJ Grady did not carry the Deep Cycle model anyway.
I now have had the Optima red top in the DeLorean the last four weeks and put on over 2,200 miles.
Again, I am impress at the performance of the battery. The Stereo system sound better, the bass sounds more solid and the sound is sweeter, no questions about it. The ignition system fires up better??? The recharge time is at least 1/3 if not 1/4 the Delco's battery. Ther is more power, period! It is still just a "little cure" for the poor 90 amp Motorola alternator. Now I need help on the alternator. With all the "original" electrical equipment on (especially A/C, wipers and headlights on), plus the "new added on" accessories such as radar detector, hi power stereo amplifier, CD changer, CB radio, palm and lap top computer---HELP! What about auxiliary or fog lights or any other electrical "add ons"? FORGET ABOUT IT! If you have everything on you better be doing over 2,500 RPMS.
I think if there is an 120 amp alternator with an Optima battery is the way to go!
Kayo Ong #05508
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:34:52 EDT From: DTrue10521(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
I would information on; Which freon to use in, how much to use, in a 81DMC.
Is retrofit possible? thank you.
dan true #03437
dtrue10521(AT)aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:12:22 -0500 From: "CUSICK, RUSSELL M" <rcusick(AT)oppd.com> Subject: DML: performance
I am thinking about purchasing a DMC-12 mainly because I like the uniqueness of the car. I would like to find some info on tried and true performance enhancing mods for both HP and handling. Can you folks on the list send me in the right direction?
thanks for your help.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 16:38:10 -0400 From: Marc A Levy <malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com> Subject: DML: Delorean Post Cards?
Trading cards... and Post cards!
http://pwp.starnetinc.com/aljung/DELOREANCARDS.jpg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:31:00 -0500 From: steve r <stephenr(AT)net-2000.net> Subject: DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
Dear friends,
I have finally gotten around to finding our place to meet Aug. 9th, 1998. I couldn't have done it without the help of a Biloxi friend. We will be meeting sometime around noon and I believe there will be two Louisiana owners, three Alabama owners and one Mississippi enthusiast.
The name of the place we will get together is Morison's Fresh Cooking. They are located at 9400 Hwy. 49 and are in Gulfport. I hope this place will be easy to find since it is located across the street from Wal-Mart. If you need to call them they are at 228-868-2962.
If you know anyone that would like to attend or if you feel you would like to show up and haven't said anything yet then please feel free to let me know something. I am at 504-386-3816 and can be contacted almost anytime.
Sincerely, Steve Rice
P.S. If you need instructions on how to get there let me know and I will send you a map with detailed instructions. Or visit www.yahoo.com and select get maps.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 17:44:50 -0700 From: "Dave Price" <davep(AT)humanmachine.com> Subject: DML: Re: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
>I was wondering if somebody could please send me the recent posting (last >2 >months or so) about a certain K&N air filter that can be modified to fit >our cars (or at least give me the K&N part number). I'm having trouble >finding this in the back issues.
It's 33-2002 .. you just have to put it in upside down, which doesn't really matter, as the element is identical on both sides... It's just the rubber part that doesn't fit right the "normal" way.
I've had it in for a while, and even though I haven't noticed any improvement, I feel better knowing the air going in the engine is cleaner...
Take it easy!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:45:52 -0700 From: "Richard J.Myosky" <rjm(AT)lrbcg.com> Subject: DML: Door ajar light ON ?
Just had my car on the road for the first time,everything worked great.Thanks for the help and reply on the frequency valve replacement,Jerry Rine in Newark had the part in stock.This took care of my fuel leaks in the engine compartment.
In the morning,I'm going to replace the dash and instrument binnacle which are badly sun damaged.While driving the car today,the door ajar light came on and stayed on.Both doors close evenly and lock and unlock with no problem.Even holding the door light button and door buzzer in with my finger had no effect on putting out the light. I even uplugged the wires leading to the door switches on both sides.Is there something I can look for since I'll have the dash out anyway ?
I have been having a battery drain problem since picking up the car last month.The car had been setting for 4 or 5 years and all the electrical connections needed cleaned.The battery checked out OK with a load test and all the cells are good.I know I will have more to clean when I pull the dash and can see what I have under there.But to keep from recharging the battery,I installed a battery elimanator switch behind the passenger seat.
On another note,I had a Delorean Owner here in town (Sandusky,Oh.)give me a call and stopped by to trade stories on keeping these cars running. He claims to be a lurker of this site for some time with no postings.Nice to know I can run over and see how something is supposed to look before I do the reinstall.
Thanks Again
Richard J.Myosky #4419
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:40:44 -0400 From: "Michael B. Kachmarik" <MKACHMAR(AT)stny.lrun.com> Subject: Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
Dan,
I have a 81 Delorean and a 84 Seville. Both are GM like air conditioner. At "Parts America" Store I just bought an air conditioning convertion kit for the 84 Seville. It is three cans of freon and 1 large can of oil, with a change of fitting and a hose kit for the install, about $34.95 for the kit. The conversion is easy and works great. Next time I am going to do it to the delorean
Good luck, if you try it let me know of the out come. Michael Kachmarik =A0
DTrue10521(AT)aol.com wrote:
> I would information on;=A0 Which freon to use in, how much to use, in a > 81DMC. > > Is retrofit possible?=A0 thank you. > > dan true #03437 > > dtrue10521(AT)aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 23:19:45 -0700 From: William Prince <wprince(AT)wprince.com> Subject: DML: 81 Delorean Parting Out
Well gentlemen and Ladies;
Since no one seems interested in buying the entire car I will therefore part it out and keep the body and frame, which I will adapt for a V8 conversion.
I will part EVERYTHING except the body, frame, glass (except the rear window which I will sell. This includes all the front & rear suspension, the motor (needs rebuilding-does not run) with or without all excessories except alt. & starter which are missing, the trans (5-speed - good condition), all electrical components that can be salvaged, the instruments less the enclosing pod, etc. Also have the wheels and tires (BFR COMP TA - good condition and tread - lite weather checking is all), etc.
All the existing wiring and electrical chassis components will be stripped and available as well. Only one tail lens available. The rear engine cover and louveres and pretty much complete but broken - will need repair.
I am planning to go ahead and use a Pontiac Fiero running gear with a Zumalt V8 conversion kit with a 550HP Chevy smallblock. This will require removing and sectioning the rear of the chassis and widening the engine compartment area so if and frame partsd are needed from that area I will do a nive neat cutout, basically from a location in line with the front of the existing transmission rearward.
I would still consider selling the complete car but will not waste anymore time with lookey-lous, etc. The deadline to sell the ENTIRE car as is will be Monday, after that it will be parts only as I will be pulling the engine & trans out of the car and stripping it! Although I have been told I could get 2 to 3 times the money from parting it out I am asking only $3000.00 for the entire car.
If serious, do NOT Email, if you can afford to buy, you can afford a phone call, otherwise you will just waste both of our time.
William Prince Las Vegas, Nv. 702-258-4799
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 03:13:57 EDT From: KayoOng(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Euro springs and shocks
Order front springs only from PJ Grady. Front springs available in three different heights. 2", 1 1/2" and 1" approximate.
If you should change your mind and want to replace front and the rears "correctly," get them from DeLorean Motor Company. This combination will lower the DeLorean evenly all around.
Kayo Ong #05508 Lic. 9D NY
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 11:10:47 +0100 From: Kieran Masterton <kieran(AT)ukonline.net> Subject: DML: Fuel
Hiya I have just subscribed I am 17 and live in the UK. I am well on my way to having enough money to buy my first delorean. First of all has anyone got any Tips for buying a delorean from over seas and not get ripped off and secondly in the UK 4 star petrol will be band in the year 2000 and I wanted to know how much it will cost to covert the head and or put a CAT into the delorean ? If anyone can help I would be very greatful as I do not want to loose all my money on a reck.
Thanx........................ Kieran Masterton
Easynet Technical Support
http://www.easynet.co.uk
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 08:09:40 -0400 From: Marc A Levy <malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com> Subject: Re: DML: performance
Yup...search the back issues of the DeLorean Mailing List.
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
CUSICK, RUSSELL M wrote: > > I am thinking about purchasing a DMC-12 mainly because I like the > uniqueness of the car. I would like to find some info on tried and true > performance enhancing mods for both HP and handling. Can you folks on > the list send me in the right direction? > > thanks for your help.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 08:21:00 -0400 From: Marc A Levy <malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com> Subject: Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
I would recommend NOT converting the system.
R134A does not cool as well as R-12, and is under much more pressure- pushing the limits of the hoses, compressor, and seals.
If you have a marginal system, R134A will kill it. I have seen dead compressors, and leaks on converted systems.
If you decide NOT to switch to R134a, be aware that there are some "black market" cheap R-12's out there that are blended with Propane. The propane will cool better than r-12, and will not damage your system, but if you have a leak in the system you could explode!
If you DO decide to switch to R134a, completely flush the system. You must change all of the O-ring seals to newer high pressure ones (They are blue or green instead of the old black ones). Remove the compressor, drain and flush ALL of the oil out of there. I would also change the receiver/dryer, and orifice tube.
If the R134a mixes with the R12 mineral oil you will clog the orifice tube, and eventually damage the compressor. Depending on your AC use, the problem may not occur for a year or 2 after you do the conversion.
To do the conversion correctly, it will cost as much if not more than a full R-12 recharge.
DTrue10521(AT)aol.com wrote: > > I would information on; Which freon to use in, how much to use, in a > 81DMC. > > Is retrofit possible? thank you. > > dan true #03437 > > dtrue10521(AT)aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 08:25:54 -0400 From: Marc A Levy <malevy(AT)dnrc.bell-labs.com> Subject: Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
I have passed NJ inspection without the cats for a few years now.
Your problem may have been because the system had been "tuned" taking in to consideration the O2 sensor readings with the added backpressure of the CATs.
Was the idle mixture re-set after the cats were removed?
Does Illinois only test at Idle? or are the using the new Dyno style test?
C. Longwisch wrote: > > Several months ago I posed an inquiry if the DeLorean would possibly pass > an emissions test without the cat converter. The replies I received back > were not from actual tests so I recently took my car with the hollow > (without catalyst) converter to get tested. It failed. I put a new cat on > it and it passed with almost no hydrocarbons or carbonmonoxide. The > following are the results with the without / with and (state standards). > Hydrocarbons ppm 926 / 8 (220)Carbonmonoxide % 0.35 / 0.02 (1.20) , > Carbonmonoxide+Carbondioxide 10.25 / 13.14 (>6.00 higher better in this > case) . > > In summary the car does need the cat to pass Illinois tailpipe test > however > I can tell you after driving the car without the cat it does run better > without the backpressure Butttttttt a reduction in emissions of this > magnitude is impressive and important to the environment! No other changes > were made between tests. The CO was low on the first test because I > "leaned" the mixture but kept it the same setting for the second test.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 09:30:29 -0400 From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org> Subject: DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Richard J.Myosky said:
> While driving the car today,the door ajar light came on and stayed > on. Both doors close evenly and lock and unlock with no problem. > Even holding the door light button and door buzzer in with my finger > had no effect on putting out the light. I even uplugged the wires > leading to the door switches on both sides.
Richard, do your red and amber door marker lights work when the doors are open? Do they go off when the doors are closed? What about the engine compartment light?
I believe that you and I have the same electrical gremlin. Between us we might be able to find the cure. Here are my symptoms:
In 1994 when I first got my DeLorean it drained the battery every single night. I ended up installing a kill switch like many other owners. After a few weeks I noticed that the marker lights on the passenger door never turned off. Even if I pressed the switch by hand or removed the wires from the switch completely the lights would not go out!
A few months later while cleaning the engine compartment I had a moment of serendipity: I discovered that the switch that controls the engine compartment light was full of crud. IMO this switch is of a cheap design, just like the glovebox light switch, and the engine compartment is an awfully dirty environment for such a light duty unit. I further discovered that if I took apart the switch and cleaned out that crud the marker lights on the passenger door would GO OFF and stay off.
To this day I have no idea why the engine compartment switch affected the passenger side marker lights, but I decided then and there that I would simply disconnect the engine compartment light (which I never use anyway). Thereafter both the battery drain and marker light problems were solved.
Fast forward to 1998 . . . those marker lights began to turn themselves on AGAIN! Unfortunately this time I cannot cure it by cleaning the engine compartment light switch because that switch is not in the car!
As an interim solution I pulled the fuse on the marker light / dome light circuit. Once again my battery drain is solved. But now for some inexplicable reason whenever my engine is running my "Door Ajar" light comes on and stays on.
The "Door Ajar" lights really have me confused, but if we keep at it I am sure we can figure out what is going on here.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 10:58:58 EDT From: KKoncelik(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: DeLorean Expo '98 - Los Angeles
Hi
I do plan on attending the Expo In La if at all possible and I can appreciate the time and effort that goes into these events. I think the only thing I would add to what is said is that these events are for us DeLorean owners and as long as they are attended people like the DOA and myself will put on the events. Its a great bunch of people and I would for one like to be able to do more.
Thanks again for all your support
ken
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 14:36:36 -0400 From: "Joe " <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Subject: DML: Re: RE: a/c retrofit
Dan, R-12, 2.2lb. Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 15:48:21 -0000 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: [admin] List down until Monday night
The DeLorean Mailing List will be "down" from Saturday morning, July 25 until Monday night, July 27. My apologies for the inconvenience.
James Espey Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 17:17:21 -0600 From: Jim Nichols <jhnichols(AT)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: DML: New horns are working finally!
> Snip---Somehow I wasn't getting enough > power from the 'stock' source. Here's another strange thing, no matter > what constant wire I used, (other than the battery itself) all I would > get is the 'clicking' sound. I've decided to run a wire from the > positive terminal and, using a inline fuse, connect this to the wire for > the horn switch. > > Thanks for listening, > > Duke
From what you describe, your new horns are drawing a lot more current than the old ones, the feed wire can't handle the extra draw and and you get low voltage, and resultant low current to the horns. Most other horns use a horn relay, a 30 amp 12 volt relay that is cheap and available at any parts store. Your horn switch may not be able to handle your 2 new horns and you'll end up with a fried switch. It doesn't look like an easy job to change the signal/headlamp flasher/horn switch unit, although it may be easy once you get the steering wheel off. If you connect your new feed wire to the relay and use the horn switch to turn on the relay, you may save yourself a lot of time and trouble. Jim #6884
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 16:32:14 PDT From: "Derek Burton" <burtond1(AT)hotmail.com> Subject: DML: found one
Hello fellow DMC'ers, I hope to soon join you. I am looking at a DMC this weekend here in Hawaii- kind of tough to find out here. I will keep you posted on what I find.
Aloha, Derek E Burton
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 22:15:28 -0500 From: "C. Longwisch" <CL1954(AT)midwest.net> Subject: Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
Marc,
I listed the Illinois limits. Are yours as stringent? We are currently only tailpipe but will be going to the dyno test in October. The car was tuned without the cat with all new plugs,cap,rotor,wires, and as I stated "leaned" before the test. As the results showed I was more than 4 times the hydrocarbon limit without the cat but reduced it to an unbelievable 8 ppm with it.
Cecil Longwisch DMC1982 VIN# 10663
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 00:58:25 -0500 From: Duke <at88mph(AT)mobis.com> Subject: DML: RE: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Mike,
Do you have an alarm system???? On my 'D, when they installed the alarm = system, they had it wired so when one door was open, the lights were on = on both doors. I believe they did it this way so that it would only use = one wire (to the alarm) and if either door opened, it would set it off. = Maybe on yours (if you do have an alarm) they also hooked up the engine = light (and possibly the trunk light) this way instead of using a pin = switch for the compartments. =20
Hope this helps,
Duke PS If you don't have an alarm...ummm never mind - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Substelny [SMTP:SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org] Sent: Friday, July 24, 1998 8:30 AM To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com Subject: DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
To this day I have no idea why the engine compartment switch affected = the passenger side marker lights, but I decided then and there that I = would simply disconnect the engine compartment light (which I never use = anyway). Thereafter both the battery drain and marker light problems = were solved.
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #392 *****************************
Postings to the DELOREAN MAILING LIST are the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of the list moderator (James Espey) or his Internet Service Provider(s). The list moderator makes every effort to screen out false, misleading, and negative postings, but it is up to you, the reader of the DELOREAN MAILING LIST, to realize that nothing should be taken as actual fact without research and investigation of your own.
-- End --
Go to previous digest | Go to next
digest.
Back
to DeLorean Mailing List Page.
Return to Back Issues page.
Search the back issues.
Having problems with these pages? Have a good idea for the back Issues? Email me at: backissues(AT)dmcnews.com
Member of the LinkExchange