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SFriday, 14 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 125
In this issue:
Suppliers
Re: Tail lights, gas, museums, and doors
RE: Tail lights, gas, museums, and doors
Re: Tail lights, gas, museums, and doors
Radiator Gives Out (Finally)
Stamps
japanese and austrailian auto's
Re: Seats
Lights - Nice Idea, BUT...
Prototype Corvette
clutch linkage
Re: Lights - Nice Idea, BUT...
Windshield glass & antenna, Hill Valley geography
Lights - Clarification
Tail light solutions
Re: Back-up light switch
Re: Lights - Clarification
Hello, I'm new to the list and I just bought my FIRST
DMC commercial
Re: Windshield glass & antenna, Hill Valley geography
Re: DMC Commercial
Really fast turn signal
DeLorean Parts Sources - Revised
Re: Really fast turn signal
Re: DMC Commercial (update)
Opinions on Firehawks ??
ADMIN NOTE: Subscriber count and breakdown
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 10:50:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Suppliers
Daryl at "Specialty Automotive" is back, sort of. You'll probably
get an answering machine but he will return your call.
Specialty Automotive
PO Box 11323
4031 Forest Park St.
Olympia, WA 98508
PH/FAX 360-867-0551
------------------------------
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:18:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tail lights, gas, museums, and doors
Please don't try the self-tapping screws fix that someone suggested.
You will probably crack your boards.
Go to Radio Shack and buy one package Cat.# 64-3010 and one package
Cat.# 64-3017 ( small machine screws and nuts ). Remove your light
boards and put one screw through each of the hollow rivets holding
the light sockets. Tighten these down with a vengence. They will now
work. No more embarassment.
Chris
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook, mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:22:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Tail lights, gas, museums, and doors
What luck! I'm in Cleveland right now. I'm working here for the next
few months. According to the local people here, I'm only a few miles
from the Crawford museum too. I'll try to head down there tonight. I
don't have a camera with me but I'll get one before I return on Monday
and take some pictures next week. I don't have a scanner right now but
I'll look into having them scanned or put on photo CD.
As far as the torsion bar is concerned, I doubt the museum could let
anyone volunteer to fix it due to the liability issues. If you volunteer
and they let you do it and you get your head knocked off, they would be
extremely liable. If one of the companies would volunteer to fix it
(perhaps as a marketing tool) that would be a different story.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: mikasa, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:41:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tail lights, gas, museums, and doors
> Go to Radio Shack and buy one package Cat.# 64-3010 and one package
>Cat.# 64-3017 ( small machine screws and nuts ). Remove your light
>boards and put one screw through each of the hollow rivets holding
>the light sockets. Tighten these down with a vengence.
YES! Don't do the self-tapping screw suggestion. I had an intermittent
tail light problems and Chris' fix was just the ticket. My only regret is
that I did not do both left and right sides at the same time because now
I have the same problem on the other tail light. Another project (albeit
small one) added tot he list of "things to do"...
James
P.S. Chase, this should be in the FAQ/CFI that you're working on, I don;t
remember if it was in your TOC or not...
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 16:01:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Radiator Gives Out (Finally)
Well, after a couple of months of driving around with a small radiator
leak, I was beginning to think it might be months from now until I
actually
had to replace the original plastic and aluminum unit with an improved
design. Sure enough, the British automobile had other thoughts.
I drove 30 miles from a place I was working at yesterday and instead of
going straight home I decided to drop by the ATM. Naturally, the leak got
worse and the car climbed to 235 degrees at one point. I drove the car
back
home via the highway but this time the gauge remained just above 220
degrees. Obviously, I ran nearly ALL 3.8 gallons out of my car. (I
personally think it holds more like 4.5 to 5 gallons.)
As luck would have it I called PJ Grady's today to order a new brass
radiator. They were having one arrive later this afternoon and said they
would ship it out via Red Label the next day. Total cost about $290.
Pretty
cheap considering an original, cheaply-designed radiator cost more than
that the last time I checked.
If things go right, I'll have the car back on the road by the end of the
day Friday and driving it 150 miles to St. Louis this weekend to go to Six
Flags and hopefully meet another DeLorean enthusiast (or two) that I've
only known via the Internet to date.
If anyone has any tips, technical advice or horror stories about
removing/replacing a DeLorean radiator, I'd love to hear them before I get
underway on the task myself.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny, SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:30:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Stamps
Yesterday my local public radio station said that Canada just
issued a stamp honoring the Bricklin.
As a big time DeLorean fan I'm jealous.
Does Ireland issue its own stamps?
------------------------------
From: Damien Falato, dgf108(AT)psu.edu
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:16:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: japanese and austrailian auto's
If any of the subscribers out there from Japan and Austrailia have info on
rare and exotic car dealers in thier countries, particularly for major
cities such as Tokyo or Sydney would be much appreciated.
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:16:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Seats
>not long-legged and the seat will not return to it's original position,
>depite pulling up on the bar. I can't see or feel under the seat to
>see\feel the problem. ...Suggestions?
The seats (like in most cars) are held in place by four nuts and bolts
that
can be removed from the underside of the car. Sounds like your best bet
may
be to remove the seat and then check it out to see if the problem is rust
or a broken spring or something that can be repaired.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:16:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Lights - Nice Idea, BUT...
>> Go to Radio Shack and buy one package Cat.# 64-3010 and one package
>>Cat.# 64-3017 ( small machine screws and nuts ). Remove your light
>>boards and put one screw through each of the hollow rivets holding
>>the light sockets. Tighten these down with a vengence.
OK, this is a great idea, but didn't work out so smoothly in reality. I
went and got the stuff today and thought I'd do this "update" in about 20
minutes. One problem - some of the slotted heads on the screws are so worn
out that I get loosen them to remove the light assemblies. What now?
Anyone?
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:16:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Prototype Corvette
>Any body know the year of the stainless steel corvette
There was a prototype of a winged Corvette produced in 1974 (if my memory
serves me correctly). The one-off gullwing 'Vette was pictured in the
DeLorean book Stainless Steel Illusion. It looked like it might have been
stainless steel, although I don't know this for certain. A strange thing,
is that the gullwing doors were hinged at the top and in the midst of the
doors to reduce their outward swing clearance. The doors must have been
hinged further out than on DeLorean if they swing out so far that they
need
to do this to them.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Damien Falato, dgf108(AT)psu.edu
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:17:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: clutch linkage
in reply to Mikasa, I have PJ Grady's Clutch linkage adjustment on my car.
Works great. I don't know how t works, but it works and it saved me a lot
in labor when I went there for clutch grab point adjusting.
More news on my 12. Some unidentified individual tapped the car for
about a
grand worth of parts and labor. I went out this morning and noticed the
exhust system seemed to look a little funny. On examination it apears
that
whoever it was made a good descision in regard to thier insurance. One of
the mock 82 tips (a stainless steel package at 100.00 via Grady) was
chewed
up, the rear bumber was scraped, the mufler bent, and the right mufler
support bent. I think it happened the other night when they passed the
olympic torch outside my apartment building. The area was packed with
people and cars. I'll probably put a normal 82 mufler on the car this
time
rather than buying the 81 mufler plus the tips, it's the same parts price
diference. (P.S. my insurance co. loves me, they just paid for this years
policy).
One more note. Met a couple of Dubliners the other day at the millcreek
mall. Why they were at the millcreak mall in Erie PA I don't know and
don't
wan to ask. They said they had seen the factory when it was running up
north. It was interesting hearing about it from people who were there.
------------------------------
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:21:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lights - Nice Idea, BUT...
Chase,
Do you have worn screws in your light boards now, or are the ones you
got from Radio Shack defective? If you have screws in the boards now
then someone did this update a while ago. The boards didn't come with
screws, just hollow rivets.
I would suggest using a dremel with a grinding wheel to remove the
heads carefully and then pushing the screw out. Then use a hand wire
brush and clean the area before installing the new screws. Radio
Shack also sells an electrical oxide cleaner, dissolver. Liquid
Wrench works to.
Chris
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny, SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:13:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Windshield glass & antenna, Hill Valley geography
TIP:
Be careful pulling into steep driveways. Last year I turned
very sharply (at low speed) into one and I could feel the body
of my DeLorean twist as the right front wheel went up the
drive. THEN SUDDENLY MY WINDSHIELD CRACKED
DOWN THE MIDDLE. I think this was due to the low
torsional stiffness of the Lotus style frame. Am I the only
one to have this problem?
TIP:
I called KAPAC, D-1, and a few other places looking for an
original windshield. They generally said the same thing:
most of the original units are coming delaminated at the
bottom due to age. The good ones that were left were very
expensive. They could sell me a bad one if I really wanted it,
or they could sell me an aftermarket model. Curious, I
looked at the cracked windshield on my very early 1981 car,
and the lamination was still PERFECT. I was puzzled.
At this point I actually went to KAPAC to see this
"delamination" problem for myself. (KAPAC usually does not
allow visits like this!). I looked through a crate of 1983
original factory windshields and sure enough, all of them have
bubbles in the black area at the bottom.
So why is my original glass lamination okay after an even
longer amount of time?
I believe that many of the original units still available are from
a batch that was rejected from production at the DMC
factory. This is not an aging problem; the lamination was
bad the day they were made.
The bubbles are not really that offensive, and I am betting
they will not get worse with time, so I bought one. My advice
here is that if you need a new windshield don't be afraid of
the lamination problem. You only notice if you look closely,
and I would bet that a few of these were installed in the
factory, so they should not hurt you in a concourse.
QUESTION:
I haven't had my new windshield put in yet because I want
the radio antenna glued into it. I know this gets terrible radio
reception, and I mean TERRIBLE, but the shape of the car
looks so much better without that mechanical mast sticking
out of the rear quarter. I have a good mechanic who will do
the job, but I need to find an aftermarket wire antenna that is
the correct length. The only one I found is too short. I have
plenty of local sources. Can anyone recommend a
make/model of wire antenna that fits?
THEORY:
It does not matter where Hill Valley is in relation to the mall.
The Libyans needed to ransack Doc Brown's house and play
back the message he left for Marty before they could know
where to find him. This leaves an arbitrarily long time for
Marty to jog there.
TIP:
Back when I first got my DeLorean I called my sister in
southern Ca. and hinted that I would love Universal's
OUTATIME souvenir license plate if she happened to be
passing through LA. Instead she immediately called
1-800-447-0373, as reported here by Mike Babb, and had
one mailed to me! I occasionally put it on the front of my car
when I'm visiting people with kids. They love it more than a
toy DeLorean.
CONTROVERSIAL TIP:
This will probably upset many purists, but I have a tip for
those who want a DeLorean but can never afford one. As
mentioned a few months back. the Volkswagen Scirocco
looks a lot like a miniature DeLorean. I parked beside a
silver one once and was shocked by the front-end
resemblance. I did a little research and discovered that the
Scirocco is a pretty hot little car: the engine is an improved
version of the one in the Porsche 924. It has other parts that
interchange with Porsche. The early ones were pretty ugly
(round headlights) but by the late 80's they were sharp. They
hold their value better than other VW's, but anybody should
be able to find a nice one for less than $3000.
I have been searching for one with automatic trans for my
work commute (my 5-speed DeLorean hates the traffic jams I
face every morning and afternoon) but all the Scirocco's I find
have stick. If I bought one I would do a little work on the front
fascia, like custom turn signals, and people passing my
house would think I had two DeLoreans.
Then maybe I'd look into custom doors :-)
- -Mike Substelny
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:15:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Lights - Clarification
>Do you have worn screws in your light boards now, or are the ones you
>got from Radio Shack defective? If you have screws in the boards now
>then someone did this update a while ago. The boards didn't come with
>screws, just hollow rivets.
Hold on there. I guess I wasn't clear enough Chris. The metal screws are
not on the circuit boards themselves. They are the screws on the outside
that hold the plastic lens assembly (and therefore the circuit boards) to
the back of the car. These are the exposed long metal bolts that are not
easy to get at since they are recessed a ways into the plastic assemblies.
BTW, I recently replaced a lot of the nuts, bolts and screws found inside
the doors using common items from a local Westlake's Ace Hardware Store.
Guess, I'll have to look at see if they have any black screws/bolts to
match the exposed metal ones that I mentioned above as being severely
worn.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny, SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:15:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Tail light solutions
I think the problem Chase described is that the screws
holding the rear light assemblies to the back of his car are
rusted. As I understand it, he never even got to his circuit
boards.
I just fixed mine last night, as Wolfie suggested, and I am
glad I did not have that problem.
On my car the Phillips-head screws that hold the assemblies
on go straight into the polymer fascia with no nuts; it is
impossible for the screws to rust into place. If your car is
like this, Chase, then all you have is some stripped Phillips
heads.
Use a tiny drill bit to make holes in the heads and the
smallest easy-out you can get to remove the screws.
Alternately, if you are really careful, you can grind new slots
in the screws. You could also dremmel the heads off, pull
the assemblies off of the car, then remove the screw bodies
with pliers. No matter which you do it won't take much force
at all, if I understand your problem, because they are
screwed into plastic instead of steel.
Everyone should replace these screws with stainless
versions from their local hardware.
QUESTION:
I am now happy to report that all of my lights have good
contact and good bulbs. HOWEVER my backup lights do
not come on at all. Does anyone know where the backup
light micro switch is located? I looked in my center console
and did not see it.
- -Mike Substelny
------------------------------
From: Marvin Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:40:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Back-up light switch
You wrote:
>
>I think the problem Chase described is that the screws
>holding the rear light assemblies to the back of his car are
>rusted. As I understand it, he never even got to his circuit
>boards.
>
>SNIP SNIP
>
>QUESTION:
>I am now happy to report that all of my lights have good
>contact and good bulbs. HOWEVER my backup lights do
>not come on at all. Does anyone know where the backup
>light micro switch is located? I looked in my center console
>and did not see it.
>
>-Mike Substelny
>
Mike:
The back-up light switch is located under the rear of the car on the
gear box housing ... it is easy to see with the car on a lift - it
plugs into the housing on the left side looking from rhe rear.
Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: Marvin Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:41:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lights - Clarification
You wrote:
>
>>Do you have worn screws in your light boards now, or are the ones you
>>got from Radio Shack defective? If you have screws in the boards now
>>then someone did this update a while ago. The boards didn't come with
>>screws, just hollow rivets.
>
>Hold on there. I guess I wasn't clear enough Chris. The metal screws are
>not on the circuit boards themselves. They are the screws on the outside
>that hold the plastic lens assembly (and therefore the circuit boards) to
>the back of the car. These are the exposed long metal bolts that are not
>easy to get at since they are recessed a ways into the plastic assemblies.
>
>BTW, I recently replaced a lot of the nuts, bolts and screws found inside
>the doors using common items from a local Westlake's Ace Hardware Store.
>Guess, I'll have to look at see if they have any black screws/bolts to
>match the exposed metal ones that I mentioned above as being severely
>worn.
>
>~ Chase
>
Chase - you can get the correct length black screws and bolts from Rob
Grady. I used them to replace all of the long screws in the back lens
assembly.
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: dmcnews-approval
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:41:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Hello, I'm new to the list and I just bought my FIRST
Delorean!
Sent: 6/13/96 8:36 PM
Received: 6/14/96 6:33 AM
From: Blarness(AT)aol.com
To: DMCNews, DMCNews(AT)world.std.com
Sender: dmcnews-approval(AT)world.std.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
Hello,
I'm new to this list, and would like to introduce myself. My name is
Chris
Coplen I'm from Grand Rapids, Michigan and I just bought my first Delorean
yesterday! The first thing I did when I got home was subscribe to the
DMCNews list.
I have tons of questions and hopefully through contacts I can get some of
them answered. Last night was one of the longest nights on record for me.
How can you sleep when there's a newly purchased Delorean sitting in the
garage?
Even thought I consider myself a car enthusiast I know very little about
Deloreans. So little, that after passing it one day at a local dealer I
bought the thing over the phone, I didn't even really take a good look at
it
first. Foolish, maybe, but I did my financial research on Deloreans
based on
the Delorean Web sight and a few other sources and decided it would be an
absolute atrocity to pass it up. I have wanted one since they first
rolled
out of the factory.
This Delorean makes car number 45 for me since 1984 when I started
collecting. Currently, though, I now only possess 10. Among them are a
trio
of 61 Plymouth Valiants, a 63 Corvair RV (one of 60 made based on the
Rampside Truck body), and a few other less significant antiques.
The DMC is an '81 model year, VIN 3000-something (I forget exactly). It
has
21,000 miles on the clock. Well, optioned, but then I don't know what
came
standard so I really can't say for sure. No body damage, sharp, very
clean,
and runs fine.
Please be warned, I'm ready to shoot off with about 50 questions right
now,
but I will refrain and limit it to the one vauge question that EVERY first
time Delorean buyer asks, "Will I ever be able to find parts?".
I am pleased and honored to be a part of your group and look forward to
speaking with you all.
Chris Coplen
An extatic new Delorean owner!
------------------------------
From: mal(AT)hocpa.ho.att.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:00:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: DMC commercial
Hi,
Have any Windows user gotten the DMC commercial quicktime file to work?
I have Stuffit for the PC, and a Quicktime player. Both seem to work,
but
when I try to view the MOV file after I run stuffit, the MOV player gives
a
error.
Anyone have better luck?
Marc
------------------------------
From: Marvin Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:01:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Windshield glass & antenna, Hill Valley geography
You wrote:
>
>TIP:
>Be careful pulling into steep driveways. Last year I turned
>very sharply (at low speed) into one and I could feel the body
>of my DeLorean twist as the right front wheel went up the
>drive. THEN SUDDENLY MY WINDSHIELD CRACKED
>DOWN THE MIDDLE. I think this was due to the low
>torsional stiffness of the Lotus style frame. Am I the only
>one to have this problem?
>The bubbles are not really that offensive, and I am betting
>they will not get worse with time, so I bought one. My advice
>here is that if you need a new windshield don't be afraid of
>the lamination problem. You only notice if you look closely,
>and I would bet that a few of these were installed in the
>factory, so they should not hurt you in a concourse.
>
>-Mike Substelny
>
Mike - may you never need it again but for all others the windshield in
the DeLorean is directly interchangeable with the windshield of the
Lotus Espirit same vintage years.
Unfortunately I am a purist whose '83 is still all original and I
honestly find nothing offensive about that sleek mast emerging from
its' hiding place. I would be more worried about having modified the
car for concourse purposes than little bubbles.
Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: mikasa, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:21:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: DMC Commercial
Evidently the Mac users are experiencing nothing but joy and fun with the
commercial on their machines, and I've come to believe that I may have
missed a step in saving the file for the Windows users out there. I am
researching a solution, but for now have nothing to offer the Winodws
users. More as it happens.
James
------------------------------
From: mikasa, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:21:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Really fast turn signal
A week or so ago my left turn signal began to blink furiously when I
would actuate the left turn signal indicator - the right side is fine.
First I checked all the bulbs (all good) and then I did the "screws in
the circuit board" fix with no luck. I'm assuming my next step now is to
replace the flasher unit - does anyone else have any suggestions?
James
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:51:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: DeLorean Parts Sources - Revised
Work is progressing on the Common Faults FAQ and hopefully I'll be able to
post a lot of it before the end of the month. Based on the "newest"
owner's
question about availability of parts, I'd thought I would post this
revised
list of places specializing in DeLoreans. As well as saying to Chris
Coplen
that probably 99 percent of the parts for the car are still obtainable or
have acceptable after-market designs or cross-reference numbers to other
cars. Of the parts that are unavailable new at this time, most are little
items (like inline fuel couplers for the ends of the fuel lines), however
there is a short supply of some items, such as left front fenders and
prices for those items can be at quite a premium.
~Chase
Now, on to the show (while I wait for new brass radiator to arrive
today)...
Having a common faults list isn't a lot of help without a source to gets
parts to repair those faults. So, here is a list of DeLorean outfits,
addresses, contact people and phone numbers that I am aware of to date. I
do not claim this list to be complete or totally accurate. Those with
additions and/or corrections to this list, please let me know and I will
revise and repost it.
KAPAC - Ohio - Jerry Rine - 1-800-854-8067
(This company bought the remaining stock of cars and parts when DMC went
bankrupt. Was known as Consolided Industries then and is now known as
KAPAC.)
PJ Grady Inc. - 118 Montauk Highway, West Sayville, NY 11796 - Rob Grady -
516-589-6224
DeLorean Motor Center - 13881 West Street, Garden Grove, CA 92643 - Don
Steger (service) and Dee Eitleman (parts) - 714-554-6794
DeLorean One - 9006 Owensmouth Avenue, Canoga Park, CA 91304 - Ed
Bernstein
- - 1-800-DMC-HELP
DeLorean Motor Company - Houston, TX - Steve Wynn - 1-800-872-3621
Bauerle Automotive - Radnor, OH
Pittman DeLorean Parts - Paul Pittman - 1-812-941-2524
Specialty Automotive - PO Box 11323, 4031 Forest Park St., Olympia, WA
98508 - Daryl - 1-360-867-0551
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 11:01:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Really fast turn signal
>A week or so ago my left turn signal began to blink furiously when I
>would actuate the left turn signal indicator - the right side is fine.
>First I checked all the bulbs (all good) and then I did the "screws in
>the circuit board" fix with no luck. I'm assuming my next step now is to
>replace the flasher unit - does anyone else have any suggestions?
James:
I've had the same intermittent problem myself twice now with the left turn
signal. Generally the "double speed" blinking is the system warnign you
that something is going wrong with it. Most obvious thing is a burnt out
bulb or faulty flasher unit. I've got a spare Volvo flasher unit that cost
around $15 if you want it (That way I could put a "dent" into the cost of
the CD-ROM). However, you could probably find it locally pretty easily and
I can look up the cross-reference part number for you.
I believe the problem with mine was a loose circuit board in the rear
light
assembly. It came loose from the plastic lens assembly and was moving
around. Worse, comes to worse, you've got a wiring problem, BUT it's most
likely a bulb, contact or flasher.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: mikasa, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 11:31:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: DMC Commercial (update)
Okay, I have a new version of the DMC Commercial, and I believe this one
will run on those Windows machines out there, ASSUMING that you can run
a QuickTime movie (.mov) file now. I am uploading it to the web
page today so it will be available tonight and for the weekend. Someone
please download it and let me know - thanks!
James
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 11:31:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Opinions on Firehawks ??
In my eternal source for new tires, I was wondering if anyone have any
experience with the Firestone Firehawk series of tires? They have at least
two models that will match the DeLorean front and back. (HR and TR rated
tires) Plus, I love that commercial they've been using during televised
races the last year or so.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: mikasa, mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 12:10:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: ADMIN NOTE: Subscriber count and breakdown
As of June 13, here's the stats for the DeLorean Mailing List:
Subscribers to the digest: 242
Subscribers to the "live" version: 25
Subscribers by .xxx address:
.com - 151
.net - 43
.edu - 31
.uk - 6
.ca - 5
.org - 3
.se - 3
.us - 3
.jp - 3
.de - 2
.au - 2
.nl - 1
.fi - 1
.br - 1
.it - 1
.pt - 1
.be - 1
.mil - 1
Thanks to all the subscribers and contributors to the DeLorean Mailing
List - subscriptions are always free, so tell your friends!
James "Mikasa" Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #125
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