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Tuesday, 18 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 128
In this issue:
Want to buy or trade for DMC
Parking brake adjustment
Re:R12 refrigerant
windshield antenna / center console switches / air cond
Re: windshield antenna / center console switches / air cond
Who is it?...Dave's not here!
Hose & Clock
And the bronse goes to the DMC windshield!
Switch way to go to find some cold air?
Automatic owners...
Delorean Tapes Movie
Crawford auto museum.
Re: Hose & Clock
Ventilation Problems
Re: Hose & Clock
Stainless letters&door sill
Re: Silver DMC Coin
First DeLorean Sold?
Re: Want to buy or trade for DMC
Re: Windshields ans Antennas
CORRECTION: Parts Sources
Re: Hose & Clock
AC Freon Charge (REPOST)
Re: I just bought my FIRST DeLorean
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: neuman(AT)diemme.it
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 10:44:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Want to buy or trade for DMC
Dear sirs,
I am realy intresten in the purchase of a DMC car and I will be very
gratifull to you for any indications in this matter.
I am also prepared to barter a DMC with any kind of italian sport car (I
am
accidentaly italian and I have connection in the field).
That can be (I hope) a intresting adjuntive possibility for anybody that
intent to sell his DMC.
Thanks for all...
Antonio A. Papaleo
------------------------------
From: Knut S Grimsrud, Knut_S_Grimsrud(AT)ccm.jf.intel.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:00:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Parking brake adjustment
A couple people have asked about parking brake adjustment. The
procedure is very simple and I thought I would share it with you.
The parking brake is supposed to be "self adjusting," but I have never
seen one that actually worked like it was supposed to, and it requires
occasional "manual" adjusting.
Take the rear wheels off your car, and leave the parking brake
disengaged for the procedure.
On your rear wheel hub, on the parking brake caliper you will see a
big screw with a cotter pin going through the head. The parking brake
pulls on this screw when it is activated in order to squeeze the
caliper together. You will know what I mean when you see it.
Remove the cotter pin and tighten the screw to compress the parking
brake caliper until the rear wheel binds, then ease off a little until
it does not. Insert the cotter pin and repeat the procedure on the
other side. When adjusted properly, the parking brake should hold your
car without your having to pull the lever very far off the floor -- on
the other hand, it should also not drag when the brake is disengaged.
Once you have the wheel off, the procedure takes about 2 minutes.
Knut Grimsrud
DOA Chapter 41
------------------------------
From: Lewis Schucart/Newsroom/Pulitzer Publishing/US
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:00:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:R12 refrigerant
Lewis_Schucart/News
To: dmcnews-digest-approval,
dmcnews-digest-approval(AT)europe.std.com
Sender: dmcnews-approval(AT)world.std.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
>I was worried about this when purchasing my car. However, whenever I've
>gone to AutoZone, I have seen shelves full of little cans of R-12 for car
>air conditioners. Based on that, I no longer am worried that the world's
>supply of R-12 will disappear overnight so to say. I am having my A/C
>recharged this week. I believe the going rate in Central Missouri right
>now is from $15 to $20 per pound of refrigerant. Not too bad IMHO.
>
>~ Chase
Chase, and others:
I saw your response about R12 being available at AutoZone, above.... I
always
thought that only AC-qualified mechanics could purchase R12 now, and that
it is
also not being made anymore. I could be that your AutoZone only sells it
to
EPA/DOT approved AC technicians that have recycling equipment.
However, Pennzoil has a new product called "Autofrost" that is a
replacement
for existing R12 AC systems. Nothing needs to be changed on exisiting
systems
(except purging the system of any remaining R12 refrigerant). This
refrigerant
really has promise. It is supposed to cool as well as existing
refrigerant.
Check out Pennzoil's web page for more info. at http://www.pennzoil.com
..By the way, I have been a lurker to this list for some time now, and
have
been meaning to post something for some time.
I don't own a DeLorean, but have loved the cars ever since they were
created.
I also like Bricklins too....
But I do own two fiberglass-bodied cars that are also unique: two '63
Avanti
cars, one with a Paxton supercharger and one without. They are another
car that
was ahead of its time. They look just as modern today (or more so) as any
other
car of the 90s.
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny, SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:12:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: windshield antenna / center console switches / air cond
I would love to find an exact match to the original windshield
antenna for future concourse opportunities. I will keep
searching, and report whatever I find here. Yes, I realize that
half the reception problem lies in the anemic Craig radio
itself, but I don't drive a DeLorean to listen to the radio. It is
nice to be original, but to me it is more important for the car
to look just as Guigiaro originally sculpted it. The shape is
perfect for the color and texture of brushed stainless steel
and I don't want interfere with it by adding an antenna, spoiler
or anything else.
Chase mentioned using electrical tape to tighten the fit of the
switches in the center consol. This sounds like a good idea,
and I have another tip for some of you.
I don't know about later cars, but in my VIN#1280 the
passenger window switch was BACKWARDS. The
ergonomics were all wrong, with up/back to lower the window
and down/forward to raise it. This annoyed my girlfriend, who
likes waving to and chatting with DeLorean admirers as we
cruise the city.
So I pulled the switch out and turned it around. To my
surprise It did not fit that way! I tried swapping the two
switches, which are identical, and still had the same
problem. Before I began ripping out wires I called John
Truscott (DOA Tech) to ask if my window ergonomics were
normal. He said my car was abnormal and I should just pull
out the switch and turn it around. Well, I had already tried
that!
The switches sit in a metal frame which gives each switch its
own metal receptacle box. On my car, each box has a slot
on one side, intended to force all the switches to be installed
correctly in the factory. The slots are all on the same side,
and they match up with a small ridge on the side of each
switch housing. If I disassemble everything and assemble it
according to these slots, I get a backwards passenger
window every time.
The solution was to machine off the plastic ridge on the side
of one switch housing so it can fit in the box on the
passenger side backwards. Note that it is much easier to
machine the plastic housing than the metal receptacle,
which was also an option. It took about ten seconds with my
dremmel, and now my girlfriend is very happy.
***********
A big thank you to Marv for the tip about the backup light
switch. And a reminder to those still debugging their rear
light assembly problems: your brake lights only work when
the ignition is on.
***********
Finally, I have seen a number of postings this year about air
conditioning problems. Before you go recharging your
refrigerant or taking apart you vacuum system, I recommend
checking one thing: the compressor clutch. Start your
engine and look at your compressor (upper left quadrant of
the compartment, a belt runs to it from your engine) with the
a/c off, then look at it with the a/c on. Both times the wheel
will be turning, but the second time the compressor itself
should turn whenever the clutch is activated. If your
compressor just sits there then you have a problem with the
clutch or the circuitry controlling the clutch.
Every time the compressor kicks on it places a load on the
engine and the injector automatically supplies a little more
fuel. You should feel these effects even if your vent louvers
are in the wrong position or your blower motor is weak or
your Freon charge is low. In a stock DeLorean you feel this
even more than in most cars. If you can turn on the a/c
without feeling any change engine power then you probably
have either a loose wire somewhere or a bad clutch. Don't
try to recharge it until you can get the compressor to engage
properly. Freon is too precious to waste!
Does anyone know a safe way to check to see if the
compressor clutch is getting electricity? This would be the
next logical step, but I wouldn't mess with the clutch while
the engine is running, so my expertise runs out here.
- -Mike Substelny
------------------------------
From: jory bell, jory(AT)MIT.EDU
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:10:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: windshield antenna / center console switches / air cond
>Finally, I have seen a number of postings this year about air
>conditioning problems. Before you go recharging your
>refrigerant or taking apart you vacuum system, I recommend
>checking one thing: the compressor clutch. Start your
>engine and look at your compressor (upper left quadrant of
>the compartment, a belt runs to it from your engine) with the
>a/c off, then look at it with the a/c on. Both times the wheel
>will be turning, but the second time the compressor itself
>should turn whenever the clutch is activated. If your
>compressor just sits there then you have a problem with the
>clutch or the circuitry controlling the clutch.
This is good advice, but remember that if you are out of freon (which
probably means a leak somewhere) your compressor will not turn on, so you
hsould check its operation independent of the AC circuit...
>Every time the compressor kicks on it places a load on the
>engine and the injector automatically supplies a little more
>fuel. You should feel these effects even if your vent louvers
>are in the wrong position or your blower motor is weak or
>your Freon charge is low. In a stock DeLorean you feel this
>even more than in most cars. If you can turn on the a/c
>without feeling any change engine power then you probably
>have either a loose wire somewhere or a bad clutch. Don't
>try to recharge it until you can get the compressor to engage
>properly. Freon is too precious to waste!
>
>Does anyone know a safe way to check to see if the
>compressor clutch is getting electricity? This would be the
>next logical step, but I wouldn't mess with the clutch while
>the engine is running, so my expertise runs out here.
First disconnect the bullet connector going to the top of the compressor
(there should be some spring-like coiled portnio of wire which loops
through a hole at the top of the compressor) Then just take a wire from
the
positive jumper cable terminal in the engine compartment to the unplugged
wire now coming out of the condensor. It willb e obvious when the clutch
engages...
- -jory
------------------------------
From: Solitary Man, awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 14:51:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Who is it?...Dave's not here!
Now wait a minute......Dave's gone,
chapter 41 is gone, his WEB page is gone......???
Wolfie hears the Twilight theme and goes running to the phone to see if
the PNDC has POOFED into another dimension as well........Or, is it
Wolfie
that's jumped into another dimension?!?!...
DE DE DO DO! DE DE DO DO! *TWILIGHT THEME!*
------------------------------
From: decolam(AT)megatoon.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:09:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Hose & Clock
Does someone can supply me with a reference part # for the long hose
from the water pump to the radiator hose tube under the engine (left
side)
Also I would like to know how to adjust the console clock.
Thanks !
Guy V. Boutet ( V.I.N. 4155 )
guy.delor(AT)sympatico.ca
------------------------------
From: Solitary Man, awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:09:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: And the bronse goes to the DMC windshield!
Believe it or not, the DeLorean windows are actually tinted....Just
barely, but there is a definate bronse tint to it...this is especially
apperant
when the window is out of the car, or when sitting next to a car with an
untinted window...
Wolf-O-Roni
------------------------------
From: Solitary Man, awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:09:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Switch way to go to find some cold air?
From your last line, I'm willing to bet (and don't quote me on this)
that your switch is at fault, and not the compressor or otherwise. At
any rate,
if your switch is hissing profusely, it's something you want to have
fixed...There was a simple solution that many on the list could tell you
about...I believe it involved silicone grease...
Wolfie?.....WOLFIE!
------------------------------
From: Solitary Man, awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:42:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Automatic owners...
Running a train of thought through my head for a while has finally
brought me to do something about it...
is it just me, or would that little DMC simbol embedded in the shifter
of the automatic look better in silver rather then flat black plastic?
I thought so, so at first, I went to have it produced, I was told I'd
have to purchase at least 40, I believe, before they would start
production.
I was unsure at the time as to how many people would even be interested
in such a thing, so I went instead for a cheap method, chrome
paint...This
hasn't taken too long to wear off, and never was silver...
SO, I suppose it's time to ask....Are there any Automatic owners, or any
owners at all, who would be interested in having a small silver DMC
replacement
for that emblem in the shifter?...
The end result, for those who don't have an automatic, would be a small
silver coin with DMC printed in raised letters on it...I suppose it could
be
placed anywhere, on anything, or even used as a necklace, if nothing
more...
I'm probably going to go and have it produced at any rate, just the 40,
so they can make the mold...if nobody's interested, Im sure I could
construct a
nice felt box and tote them along to club functions...
I wonder if Arnie brandon would like one...maybe the PNDC would be
interested in selling them...?...I should give him a call tonight...
Wolfman-Cheddar
------------------------------
From: michael richard pack, mrpack(AT)wam.umd.edu
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:04:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Delorean Tapes Movie
I've got a copy of the movie. For those of you who will be attending the
Bowie British Car Show, you are welcome to my house and view my Delorean
Video tapes after the show.
BTW Craig Singhaus my contact at Maryland Public Television spoke with me
today about coverage of the EXPO in Nashville. He was really interested
in the Las Vegas expo, but the circumstances kept him away. He's trying
to "open up time" for us there.
Michael Pack
410-551-3107
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook, mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:05:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Crawford auto museum.
Well, I went to the Crawford auto museum here in Cleveland today to see
the first DeLorean ever sold (#500). It's on display with two other
stainless steel cars: A 1964 Lincoln and a 1937 Ford (neither of which
was produced commercially). The DeLorean is in good shape other than
some loose moulding around the driver's side of the windshield. I got
about 7 pictures of the car including the painted wheels (same color as
the fascia or slightly darker) and the DMC-less grille. I didn't see
anything else unusual about the car. I expected the finish of the
stainless to have problems but that was not the case. I'll get the
pictures digitized in the next week or so and post them somewhere--either
on David Takeuchi's web page or anywhere else that'll take them. The
rest of the museum was interesting but the majority of the cars on
display were pre-40's cars which I have never particularly been
interested in. Some of the cars had damage (like the broken moulding on
the DeLorean or the terrible dent in the fender of the stainless steel
Lincoln) but overall it was pretty interesting. I'm afraid some of the
pictures might not turn out as they were taken through a shiny surface
(shiny plastic on the description text and the windshield for the VIN and
original window sticker) but if that's the case, I'll borrow another
camera that wouldn't need a flash and go again. If anyone wants to post
the pictures somewhere else once I put them somewhere, feel free as I'm
releasing them to public domain.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:21:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hose & Clock
>Does someone can supply me with a reference part # for the long hose
>from the water pump to the radiator hose tube under the engine (left
>side)
Rumor has it that this hose is a very close match to a Dayco #71254.
>Also I would like to know how to adjust the console clock.
Easy enough. There are two small holes beneath the clock's LED display.
Push a paper clip or ink pen into each and hold until the numbers are what
you want. The left hole is for the hour, while the right one is for the
minutes.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: magriese(AT)VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:21:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Ventilation Problems
Scott
There are a number of components that can go wrong
in the ventilation system. The mode switch can
fail in two ways, it can develop a vacuum leak and
it can fail electrically. The fan can fail completely,
and it can actually operate in reverse. The ventilation
circuit is controlled by vacuum-driven actuators located
in various places within the ventilation plenum. Finally,
the vent louvers themselves can fail. The question is,
how to debug the system?
The mode switch is relatively easy to sort out. If you
hear a hissing noise from the center console all of the
time or when the mode switch is in a particular position,
the grease in the back half of the switch has evaporated
and the ventilation control circuit is open. You can fix
this yourself by removing the mode switch, disassembling it
and relubricating the vacuum circuit. If the fan works
with the mode switch in some positions and not others, the
electrical portion of the mode switch is the problem.
This can be fixed temporarily by disassembling the electrical
part of the switch and cleaning up the contact surfaces.
If your problem is poor airflow to the console vents, there
are two things to look for. A lot of people don't realize it,
but you can close off each of the vents independantly by turning
thumbwheels on either side of the vents. The side vents can
be closed this way, too. The flaps controlled by the thumbwheels
can break in the closed position if the thumbwheels are turned
too hard. The other problem is the vacuum-driven actuators.
If you remove the center vent (insert a small screwdriver
at the top and bottom of the vent and pry gently outward),
you will see the top of the radio and a pair of ducts.
The ducts will have some flaps inside them. You should
see both flaps move when the mode switch is cycled through
the various positions. Open for vent, AC, Max; closed for
heat, defrost. If these don't move at all, you have a vacuum
leak problem or the diaphragms in the actuators no longer
work. You can check the side vents by opening the door
and checking the airflow out of the hole in the side of
the dashboard. It is also possible, but not likely that
there may be some other kind of blockage in the ductwork,
like some insulation.
If your vents work ok and you still don't get much air, you
probably have a bad fan. The fan motor can fail in such a way
that it actually runs backwards. The fan will sound like it
is working properly, but since the motor drives a squirrel-cage,
it will not be moving much air into the ductwork. Try
reversing the wires to the motor and see if that improves the
situation.
Mike Griese
magriese(AT)vnet.ibm.com
------------------------------
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:49:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hose & Clock
Guy,
On the left side of your engine you should have two #106033 hoses and
two pipes. The hoses appear kind of short.
Toward the bottom of your clock you'll see two little dents. Get a
toothpick and push them. The rest is obvious.
Chris
------------------------------
From: SCiszek(AT)aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Stainless letters&door sill
>The stainless steel letters for the door sills and rear bumper were
>advertised in last year's catalog from DeLorean One. I am unaware of if
>they still sell these items or if anyone else carries the product
Mike:
Just recieved the most recent copy of DeLorean One's catalog and these
items are still being offered.
-Scott Ciszek
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:01:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Silver DMC Coin
Wolfie:
Sounds like an interesting plan you have. Any thoughts to doing the "coin"
in brushed stainless steel instead? I don't have an automatic DeLorean,
but
I might buy one of them anyway and place it in a leather key fob. Keep me
informed.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:01:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: First DeLorean Sold?
>Well, I went to the Crawford auto museum here in Cleveland today to see
>the first DeLorean ever sold (#500).
Rob:
I was under the impression that the first DeLorean sold was VIN#649. If
this can be proven to be incorrect than I would like to know since it
would
mean my car was the 1029th produced for sale instead of one of the first
thousand like I have been claiming to admirers. How about it Dave and
Knut?
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:01:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Want to buy or trade for DMC
Antonio:
I'd love to have a Ferrari or a Lamborghini, however, the cost of
insurance
here in America on those two types of vehicles is exorbitant to put it
mildly.
One thing you forgot to mention is what type of DeLorean you are
looking for, and from where you are looking? The cost to ship a
car overseas can be quite high, but there are DeLoreans
scattered throughout Europe, Japan and Australia that the owners might be
persuaded to part with for the right offer.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: aerostar(AT)ccia.com
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:01:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Windshields ans Antennas
Mike Substelny, SUBSTEM(AT)cesmtp.ccf.org, wrote in V2 #125:
>TIP:
>I called KAPAC, D-1, and a few other places looking for an
>original windshield. They generally said the same thing:
>most of the original units are coming delaminated at the
>bottom due to age. The good ones that were left were very
>expensive. They could sell me a bad one if I really wanted it,
>or they could sell me an aftermarket model. Curious, I
>looked at the cracked windshield on my very early 1981 car,
>and the lamination was still PERFECT. I was puzzled.
>
>At this point I actually went to KAPAC to see this
>"delamination" problem for myself. (KAPAC usually does not
>allow visits like this!). I looked through a crate of 1983
>original factory windshields and sure enough, all of them have
>bubbles in the black area at the bottom.
>
>So why is my original glass lamination okay after an even
>longer amount of time?
>
>I believe that many of the original units still available are from
>a batch that was rejected from production at the DMC
>factory. This is not an aging problem; the lamination was
>bad the day they were made.
Eric sez:
The delamination could be caused from the fact that the windshields were
not installed in a frame. With no pressure on the edges of the glass,
this
might have caused some separation in the past 15+ years. Did the ones you
saw at KAPAC have any sort of packaging around the edges to provide some
pressure? At any rate, once installed, I would think the separation would
be minimal from then on.
>QUESTION:
>I haven't had my new windshield put in yet because I want
>the radio antenna glued into it. I know this gets terrible radio
>reception, and I mean TERRIBLE, but the shape of the car
>looks so much better without that mechanical mast sticking
>out of the rear quarter. I have a good mechanic who will do
>the job, but I need to find an aftermarket wire antenna that is
>the correct length. The only one I found is too short. I have
>plenty of local sources. Can anyone recommend a
>make/model of wire antenna that fits?
Or give this a try:
A company called Grove Enterprises developed an "in-car" wide band antenna
that connects to the ground of the car body, making the entire car body
an
active antenna. While originally developed for radio enthusiasts that
wanted to avoid the "porcupine" look of having a scanner antenna on their
car, it should work with your AM/FM radio since the frequency range is
1-1000 MHz.
Of course, nothing will match the performance of a mast antenna.
The Grove antenna may, or may not, be better than the windshield dipole
you
wrote about. But at least you wouldn't have an aftermarket installation
that is visible. Bit of trivia: JZD came up with the idea of a dipole
inside the laminations of car windshields in the sixties.
Contact Grove at 704-837-7081 and ask about their ANT 20. With the proper
Motorola connector it sells for about $25. They also have an extensive
web
page at www.grove.com. I would _guess_ you could e-mail them at
info(AT)grove.com, or something like it.
Eric Friedebach aerostar(AT)ccia.com
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:10:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: CORRECTION: Parts Sources
KAPAC - Ohio - Jerry Rine - 1-800-854-6087
(This company bought the remaining stock of cars and parts when DMC went
bankrupt. Was known as Consolided Industries then and is now known as
KAPAC.)
The phone number listed previously for KAPAC is incorrect. (Thanks James!)
The correct number is printed above.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Marvin S.Sterling, marv930(AT)ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:11:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hose & Clock
At 03:09 PM 6/17/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Also I would like to know how to adjust the console clock.
>
>Thanks !
>
>Guy V. Boutet ( V.I.N. 4155 )
>guy.delor(AT)sympatico.ca
>
If you are talking about the green LED clock there are two little
depressions at the base of the clock ... use a ball point pen to depress
the little switches in the holes ... the left one sets the houe and the
right
one is for the minutes ... you have to push in for a few seconds before
anything happens.
Yes guys ! I probably have the only '83 with the console clock, I located
one in Pennsylvania when my ASI radio went out and I had an Alpine
installed. Then had the original repaired and now have two clocks when
the radio is on. Still have the original console part in case a future
buuyer
wants to go back to real original.
Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:11:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: AC Freon Charge (REPOST)
I have run this once or twice before, but considering the ever-growing
number of subscribers and the fact that the A/C system has been a hot
topic
the last few days, I have decided to repost it once again...
A brief reminder for those planning on having their air conditioners
checked out soon. According to Bulletin ST-29-11/81 the freon charge was
changed to 2.2 pounds from the previous 2.75 pounds and was introduced
with
VIN 4080.
"If knocking noises are observed during starting with the air conditioning
on, the new freon charge specification should be used."
Keep this in mind while the dog days of summer begin rolling across the
country.
~ Chase
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
Stormrider Media Productions P.O. Box 105301
Chase Clark, Co-Owner Jefferson City, Missouri
65110-5301
Voice/Fax (573)635-0622 Email: stormrider(AT)socketis.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:22:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: I just bought my FIRST DeLorean
>I'm new to this list, and would like to introduce myself. My name is
>Chris Coplen I'm from Grand Rapids, Michigan and ...
>...So little, that after passing it one day at a local dealer I
>bought the thing over the phone, I didn't even really take a good look at
>it first. Foolish, maybe, but I did my financial research on Deloreans
>based on the Delorean Web sight and a few other sources and decided it
>would be >an absolute atrocity to pass it up.
Chris:
Foolish perhaps, but I did some even crazier. I bought my DeLorean back in
October sight-unseen. I had the previous owner take it to a garage and
spent $2,300+ on repairs, then flew out to Portland, Oregon a month later
and drove the car back to Missouri after spending all of a few minutes
becoming familar with it at the mechanic's shop.
However, I did receive a lot fo input from various people before deciding
to buy it. Among the most helpful were David Takeuchi and Knut Grimsrud,
whom met me personally when I picked up the car. Also to be mentioned are
James Espey, John Truscott and Ed Bernstein (who was helpful with
diagnosing the fuel problem, even though he ended our phone conversation
by
recommending I have them pick up the car and work on it or purchase one of
their DeLoreans).
I took a huge gamble, but thought the price was worth the risk. So far, I
have had my fair share of problems with the car, but still consider it to
have been a good investment as I knew what to expect going into it. See, I
once owned a pair of MG Midgets and know all about the failings of British
car manufacturers.
~ Chase
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End of dmcnews-digest V2 #128
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