Back to DeLorean Mailing List Page. Return to Back Issues page.
Search the back issues.
Having problems with these pages? Have a good idea for the back Issues? Email me at: backissues@dmcnews.com
Member of the LinkExchange
Friday, June 27 1997 Volume 02 : Number 255
In this issue:
DML: ADMIN NOTE: 6/18-6/23 list status
DML: A/C Bearing Repl Procedure
DML: Classic Cars July 1997
DML: Re: Destroying cars
DML: Freehold, NJ meet this Thursday?
DML: DeLorean activity on the Web
Re: DML: Engine swap/Trailing Arm Bolts
DML: RE: DeLorean activity on the Web
Re: DML: Engine swap/Trailing Arm Bolts
Re: DML: RE: DeLorean activity on the Web
Re: DML: Engine swap/Trailing Arm Bolts
DML: 1981 DMC for Sale Due to relocation.
DML: Neat JZD collectible
DML: LAFAYETTE CONCOURS S.F. BAY AREA
DML: Re: Sad DMC Story
DML: Fan Circuit Breakers and other electrical tidbits
DML: Re: Electrical tidbits. Component heating
Re: DML: LAFAYETTE CONCOURS S.F. BAY AREA
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 97 14:42:09 -0000
From: James Espey (espey@dmcnews.com)
Subject: DML: ADMIN NOTE: 6/18-6/23 list status
Due to an error on the part of my now former ISP, the account to which
all the DML postings and any mail sent to a "dmcnews.com" address was
forwarded to was inadvertently deleted last Thursday. I was out of town
until late last night
and have spent the better portion of the day today straightening things
out. It appears that things are back in order.
Anything sent to either the DELOREAN MAILING LIST or ANY "dmcnews.com"
address will need to be resent. Continue to use the
"dmcnews@world.std.com" address for list postings and "espey@dmcnews.com"
for personal messages to me. I figure that I lost on the order of 240 to
280 messages, about 50 percent of which were to the list of myself
personally, the rest being stuff I can do without anyway.
Further developments will be posted as they occur.
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 97 21:28:14 -0600
From: David Swingle (dswingle@enteract.com)
Subject: DML: A/C Bearing Repl Procedure
Chase (GullWinged@aol.com) wrote:
>I know someone posted that they recently had replaced their A/C belt and
>pulley bearings, but I am unable to find that post, so this is for the
>entire list. What is the process of removing and replacing the pulley
>bearings themselves for the A/C belt? Do the old ones just punch out and
>the new ones press in fairly easily, or are special tools and techniques
>required?
Of the projects that I have done on the car, this was probably the
easiest. (Especially campared to the accumulator and fuel lines -
yecchh).
The only trick here it to be careful to keep track of where all the
spacers go. The exploded view in the parts manual is a help, but it does
have a slight error regarding where all the washers go. Just take it
apart carefully, and slip a tie-wrap through the brackets and washers to
keep them together until you are ready to put it back together. When you
remove the assembly, the cam access cover and the O-ring will fall on the
ground. That's why the Grady belt kit includes an O-ring.
Once you have everything on your bench, remove the "axles" with the
pulleys on them. This should be obvious. I pressed the "axle" bolt out
with a vise, using a socket to provide somewhere for it to go.
Oh - now for the special tool. You'll need an "internal snap-ring plier"
- - Sears has it. Remove the snap rings. I found it easy to knock the
bearings out with a large socket with an external diameter just smaller
than the opening in the pulley. Hit the socket with a hammer. Depending
on how frozen everything is you may ruin the socket, but I didn't have
any problem. The approved way to do this is probably with a hydralic
press, but I don't happen to have one.
Clean everything up, put the snap rings back in one side of the pulleys,
and use the socket to press/tap the bearings into the pulleys. Obviously
the socket should contact the OUTER race of the bearings. Put on the
second snap ring. Put it all back together and away you go.
Dave Swingle
dswingle@enteract.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 15:43:42 -0600
From: Patrick Hawke (phawke@boi.hp.com)
Subject: DML: Classic Cars July 1997
I spotted another mention of the DeLorean in a recent publication:
Thoroughbred & Classic Cars July 1997
The magazine includes a FREE supplement paperback called:
Facts & Feats, The Ultimate Guide
A quick glance in the book showed:
Page 47 is a picture of several partially assembled DeLoreans.
Page 57 a mention of the SS exterior.
_Patrick_
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 22:53:30 -0500
From: "Back to the Future...The Fan Club" (time@Traveller.COM)
Subject: DML: Re: Destroying cars
>My girlfriend's father claims he bought the D from BTTF II. It cost
>$5K and he spent several years trying to get it to run again before
>finally having to sell it due to financial constraints. I've seen
>photos of the car; it was definitely a D, although I can't verify it
>was the one from BTTF. I don't know the VIN, but I could ask if he
>remembers it. Anyone else know anything about this story?
I can guarantee that it isn't. Universal has never sold any of their
DeLorean car props, much less for as little as $5k. Especially
considering
that they cost the studios $150k for the first three in BTTF1, and even
much
more than that in the two sequels. The only possible car that may be out
on
the market would be one rebuilt using the spare parts used when the train
ran over the time machine, which wasn't a working car anyway.
________________________________________________________________________
Stephen M. Clark, President
Back to the Future=99...The Fan Club
P.O. Box 880
Athens, AL 35612-0880 U.S.A.
Voice/Fax: (205) 230-6288
E-mail: time@traveller.com
Website: http://www.bttf.com/
________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 11:02:33 -0400
From: "Michael E. Gaines" (starman@powerpage.com)
Subject: DML: Freehold, NJ meet this Thursday?
Hi all,
This Thursday is the Cruise Night in Freehold, NJ. Doug brought up the
idea of gathering somewhere and then cruising over to the show. My first
idea would be to meet at the Freehold Raceway Mall. I believe that the
show starts at 6:30, so meeting at 6 or 6:15 might be a good idea.
Anyone else interested in going?
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 08:18:09 -0400
From: Mike Substelny (SUBSTEM@cesmtp.ccf.org)
Subject: DML: DeLorean activity on the Web
After many weeks with no web browsing access (seemed
like an eternity!), I finally got back on line yesterday. Some
things sure have changed! I have a few questions and
comments for my fellow DMLers:
DELOREAN ONE: What is with the DeLorean One web site I
heard so much about? It was born while I was off line, but
now it seems to be gone. Maybe it's just invisible to my new
browser? (now they force me to use me Microsoft instead of
Netscape) I can go there, but I can't see anything DeLorean
related there.
DOA: The DOA's website currently offers an "Internet
Special" that seems to genuinely be a good deal. You order
the DeLorean World back issues (those old magazines
contain a lot of the information that we DMLers clamor for)
and they give you a year's membership for free. If you were
planning to join the DOA (or renew) anyway you might want
to check it out while the offer lasts.
DML BACK ISSUES: I love the looks of the DML web page,
and I can't wait to read the 'Zine (really psyched about that!).
I believe the search function for the DML Back Issues could
someday be the world's most valuable DeLorean information
resource. But the current DML Back Issue search function
instantly kills my new browser, and I end up disconnected
from the Web. Does this happen to anyone else?
Thanks!
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:16:26 +0000
From: BRUCE BENSON (delornut@worldnet.att.net)
Subject: Re: DML: Engine swap/Trailing Arm Bolts
At 08:25 PM 6/15/97 +0000, you wrote:
>I know that the DMC engine is the same used in a european volvo....but
>does
>this mean that if the DMC motor goes out that one can simply swap (order)
>a
>motor that fit in the european volvo and put in in your DMC with no
>problem....if this can't be done does anybody know why???
The top end of the motor is the Volvo configuration but the engine block,
crankcase, and oil pan are from the Renault Alpine. This conbination is
unique to the DeLorean. Many parts are interchangable but a simple engine
swap isn't possible.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:58:54 -0400
From: Rob Hook (rob_hook@pop.net)
Subject: DML: RE: DeLorean activity on the Web
DeLorean One web site: Hmmm... I can see the DeLorean One web site fine.
Are you looking at www.deloreanone.com? It may be a name server
problem.
Try looking at 198.178.203.4 instead. This should give you a company
called Kaiwan. This is the company (I presume) that runs the deloreanone
web site. If this doesn't work, yell at your techies.
DML back issues: I was considering building a more-feature rich,
self-updating full-text on-line database of the back issues but the
person
who built the other one said that he had gotten very little response to
the
one we have now. I consider it one of the most useful things on the
Internet but apparently not many agree.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 16:39:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: ATMorgan1@aol.com
Subject: Re: DML: Engine swap/Trailing Arm Bolts
In a message dated 97-06-24 16:17:17 EDT, you write:
>>The top end of the motor is the Volvo configuration but the engine
block,
crankcase, and oil pan are from the Renault Alpine. This conbination is
unique to the DeLorean. Many parts are interchangable but a simple engine
swap isn't possible.
Bruce Benson
So you could if you could buy the top end of the Volvo engine and the
crankcase and such from the Alpine you could "construct" a brand new
Delorean
engine? Has this been done or would this be way more expensive then just
putting the Buick V6 into it? Also does anybody know anything about
checking
trailing arm bolts?
Thanks,
Alex Morgan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 16:55:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: MICHAEL BABB (mikebabb@vnet.net)
Subject: Re: DML: RE: DeLorean activity on the Web
DeLorean One on the Web: I have seen them fine also. You might try
upgrading to the current version of Internet Explorer (3.02) Some of the
last versions were kinda buggy.
As for the back issue text search...PLEASE keep it, I haven't used it yet,
but I haven't had to look up anything reciently. It is defanitly a
valuable resource to have! I
Michael Babb, MCSE
Microsoft Technical Education
Computer Decisions Inc.
Phone 919.460.7604
Alpha Pager (Raleigh) 919.389.2695
mikebabb@vnet.net
On Tue, 24 Jun 1997, Rob Hook wrote:
> DeLorean One web site: Hmmm... I can see the DeLorean One web site fine.
> Are you looking at www.deloreanone.com? It may be a name server
> problem.
> Try looking at 198.178.203.4 instead. This should give you a company
> called Kaiwan. This is the company (I presume) that runs the deloreanone
> web site. If this doesn't work, yell at your techies.
>
> DML back issues: I was considering building a more-feature rich,
> self-updating full-text on-line database of the back issues but the
> person
> who built the other one said that he had gotten very little response to
> the
> one we have now. I consider it one of the most useful things on the
> Internet but apparently not many agree.
>
> --Rob Hook
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 97 14:13:58 -0000
From: James Espey (espey@dmcnews.com)
Subject: Re: DML: Engine swap/Trailing Arm Bolts
>> The top end of the motor is the Volvo configuration but the engine block,
>> crankcase, and oil pan are from the Renault Alpine. This conbination is
>>unique to the DeLorean. Many parts are interchangable but a simple engine
>> swap isn't possible.
>>
>> Bruce Benson
>So you could if you could buy the top end of the Volvo engine and the
>crankcase and such from the Alpine you could "construct" a brand new Delorean
>engine? Has this been done or would this be way more expensive then just
>putting the Buick V6 into it? Also does anybody know anything about checking
>trailing arm bolts?
I may have missed the beginning of this thread, but if the object is to
get a "brand new" DeLorean engine, why not contact DeLorean Motor Company
(Houston)? In Belfast, Stephen mentioned that there were still a couple
hundred complete engines in crates among the KAPAC stash...
I am preparing a list commonly used items on the DeLorean (those commonly
seen on cross-reference lists). I think it'll be interesting to see what
the difference in cost is from a DeLorean supplier and my local parts
house...
James
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 19:42:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: dstall@trib1.trib.net (D.L. Stalling)
Subject: DML: 1981 DMC for Sale Due to relocation.
I've really had a lot of fun with the DeLorean this last year, but job
relocation and loss of 4-car garage make change necessary.
1981 DMC-12 for sale with Auto Trans. New Grey Leather Seats/carpets.
Interior totally refurbished with less than 15,000 miles. with Clarion
AM/FM/CD player. Please give it a loving home. Asking $18,000/OBO. Body
is clean. Glass is orig and has new tires. Car featured on DOA home page
with Son/Daughter-in-law's Wedding picture.
Also have 5-speed trans with good gears as parts for sale; make an offer.
Also have for sale: 1963 split window coupe (neds paint); 1963 Avanti R-2
supercharged 4-sped (frame off restoration);1938 3/4 ton pickup RD-15
(frame off total restoration).
Dave Stalling
dstall@mail.trib.net
(573) 442-2795 Home
or FAX (573) 449-0312 Home
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 97 17:23:17 -0000
From: James Espey (espey@dmcnews.com)
Subject: DML: Neat JZD collectible
Just ran across a very rare and neat JZD collectible. It's a bit pricey
for me, but someone out there might have an extra $28,500.00
http://www.recollectics.com/delorean.htm
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 05:32:23 -0700
From: Scott Mueller (SAMUELLE@pacbell.net)
Subject: DML: LAFAYETTE CONCOURS S.F. BAY AREA
Sunday, July 20th, 1997 I will be showing at the Concours d'Elegance de
Lafayette.
This show is at Acalanes High School located in the East San Francisco
Bay Area. About 15 miles East of Oakland.
If you are interested in showing, contact the Lafayette Chamber of
Commerce, 510.284.7404 or fax 510.284.3109
All San Francisco Bay Area owners - for those of you that I have been
emailing, this is our chance to show in force. My car is far from
perfect, but I intend to show it any way. It really is fun, this will
be my third show.
The D.O.A. events are so far away, it is not practical for me to bring
my car to those events, so these shows are my only option.
I'm looking forward to meeting my fellow owners there.
Feel free to e-mail me with questions.
SAMUELLE@PACBELL.NET
SCOTT MUELLER
VIN 002981
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 11:39:33 -0400
From: "Marc Levy" (marc.levy@prudential.com)
Subject: DML: Re: Sad DMC Story
For some reason, I think I have been missing some of the digests, and they
have not been updated on the web page, so if some of the content of this
note is irrelevant, I am sorry.
A few issues ago, we all had the displeasure of reading a story about a
DMC
rotting in the weeds.
I dont remember who posted the story, but there were a few questions that
were asked, and the thread just seem to die.
Is there any new information on this car?? Is is a pre-production
prototype??
Aside from the windows looking strange, did it have the rim's we are all
used to? From the pictures I have seen, the pre-production cars had a
different wheel design.
In the July 97 issue of Road and Track, there is a 2 page spread on
stories from previous years. One of the highlights is July 1977, where
the
DMC was on the cover. Based on the teenie tiney picture of the cover, it
looks as if this car has the stange windows as described, and also has a
diffrent style wheele.
Does anyone have a copy of the 1977 Road and Track?? Does R&T sell old
magazines like this? Or will my only luck to read this article be the
local
library?
Well, I hope this message makes it to the list!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 14:34:29 -0500
From: "Mark Hershey" (mhershey@sritelecom.com)
Subject: DML: Fan Circuit Breakers and other electrical tidbits
I've had a little experience on circuit breakers and other DeLorean
electrical problems that might be of help. I documented some of this years
ago in a Delorean World magazine article, but I've learned more since then
and, given recent discussion on circuit breakers, this may be of help.
1) My interior comfort fan (heater and A/C blower) would short cycle on
speeds 3 and 4, normal on 1 and 2. It would run for 10 to 15 minutes on a
hot afternoon on speed 4, then cut out. I could switch the knob to speed 1
or 2 and the blower worked fine, but 3 and 4 would be dead for about 2
minutes, then come back on for only a second or two, or sometimes a full
minute or two and cut off again. Pulled the DMC schematic and noted that
the
DC power source goes through this circuit breaker only on speeds 3 and 4.
Gotta be the breaker!. The breaker was hot to the touch, and it would
thermal-- run hot enough to trip itself even though the current draw by
the
fan was less than the rated value. With the wooden cover off, you could
hear
it click when it opened. The problem: the factory connected the battery
source lead to the "AUX" terminal instead of "Batt", and the fan to the
"Batt" terminal. In other words, backwards. Seems that these little
buggers
will run hot if current runs the wrong way.
The fix: since all four wires connected to this breaker are the same color
(Lucas again!), a little detective work is needed...Remove all four brown
wires from the breaker, use a voltmeter to find which one is the battery
source (you will see 12 VDC when the ignition is on on only one). Connect
this lead to either one of the breaker pins market BATT.
Next, you have to determine which two of the remaining three leads are the
fan3 and fan4 leads and connect them both to the AUX terminal. Here's one
method:
Connect any of the remaining three leads to the AUX terminal, turn on the
ignition and A/C, and see if the AC blower runs on either 3 or 4. If
neither, move the wire to the BATT terminal, connect the other two
remaining
leads to the AUX terminal, and you are done.
If either 3 or 4 work, leave it there and connect either of the remaining
wires to the other AUX terminal. See if the blower now runs on both 3 and
4.
If so,leave it there and connect the only remaining wire to the BAT
terminal
and you are done. If not, move it to the BATT terminal and connect the
only
remaining wire to AUX. You are done.
Check to see that speeds 3 and 4 now work; if not you have a wiring
problem
somewhere else.
If yours was backwards, the breaker will now run MUCH cooler and will not
thermal trip or cause excessive heat buildup.
2) Radiator Cooling Fans Breaker Problems - Much has already been written
on
the subject, including problematic Fan Fail modules, fixes like the
well-designed Fanzilla modules, replacement breakers with threaded studs,
etc. All are valid fixes or partial fixes. My replacement threaded stud
breaker was better than the OEM fast-on terminal breaker, but it still ran
hot enough to thermal trip after both radiator fans were on for awhile.
The
problem: the 40-amp breaker is insufficient to handle two fans. Not
wanting
to increase the rating (dangerous, bad idea), I simply divided the load
into
two breakers, one for each fan.
*** NOTE *** Do this ONLY after disconnecting the battery!
Here's the story: Each of the two front fans have separate leads which
join
at the breaker (the two brown/yellow leads, in my car vin 2790). I
replaced
the 40 amp breaker with a 20 amp one and connected only one of the fans
lead
(either one) to its AUX terminal. Next, add a second 20-amp breaker for
the
second fan. Make a short (3") jumper of 12 ga. wire and two ring lugs and
connect it between the BATT terminals of both breakers. Connect the
remaining fan lead to the AUX terminal on the second breaker and snap both
breakers into the two existing breaker mounting clips.( I know, the AC
blower breaker is supposed to be in the rightmost bracket; I popped it out
and mounted it elsewhere since its leads were long enough)
After the above mods all three breakers will run cool to slightly warm.
Been working now for about 7 years. Two breakers add a margin of safety-
run
MUCH cooler, and either fan circuit can develop a problem without
affecting
the other.
These little breakers are about $3.50 each from NAPA stores, so it is a
cheap fix.
Oh, and I also connected the unused wire from the Fan Fail lamp to the AUX
terminal on one of the breakers (either one will do) and painted out the
words FAN FAIL using a tiny brush and black paint on the INSIDE of the
control panel (remove the panel, remove the FAIL lamp, carefully paint out
the letters, reinsert the lamp and replace the panel). Now the word
COOLING
appears whenever the fans are running.
On another subject--Hot Relays: (I haven't done this, but I believe it is
a
good idea) I recommend changing at least some of the Lucas relays to
Bosch.
The Lucas relays that control the heaviest loads (the interior blower fan
and the radiator fans) run very hot. This is partially because their
contacts are very small for the 20-40 amp load; they are simply under
rated.
This will lead to problems: fires (worst case), relay contact failure
(fans
won't work), or contact weld (fans run all the time). Typically, the
contacts will pit and corrode, this adds resistance and the contacts run
hotter, more corrosion, more resistance, more heat. Hopefully never enough
to start a fire, but it could certainly happen. Probably has happened.
Others report that the Bosch relays at least help the problem. I suspect
that the Bosch relays have larger contact surface area and are better able
to carry a heavy load with less generated heat. Translation- long, cool
life.
Only reason I haven't done this is because I fix the old relays every
couple
years-- I don't mean to be cheap, but my wife and my DMC are not good
friends. I don't recommend this as a good idea, but you can pry open the
relay covers and re-dress the contacts with 1200-grit sandpaper and they
will run cooler for awhile. Do this only on the fan relays-- the others
don't need it and no point in rocking the boat, or risk getting the little
jewels mixed up...
Incidentally, the relay contacts that run the door locks (inside the door
lock module) are TINY, no WAY they could reliably handle the highly
inductive load of two door lock solenoids. Mine failed; I fixed it by
reburnishing (restoring) the contacts, and rewired the module to drive two
additional relays instead of the door locks. The relays have large
contacts
that in turn drive the lock solenoids. Think of it as a sort of 'relay
amplifier'. Still working great after 6 or 7 years. I think P.J. Grady's
Fanzilla does essentially the same thing, probably with something a little
more elegant than relays, like series pass transistors. By all accounts, a
good product.
Oh, and one last tip: reseat all relays and fuses about once a year to
keep
down heat. All electrical contacts (even good ones) corrode, and the
effect
is accelerated by heat and moisture, both of which are normally present in
the relay compartment. Reseating the devices helps improve contact and
reduce resistance and the resulting heat. The entire DeLorean is wired
with
too-small gauge wire (another heat source) so anything you can do to
minimize electrical resistance is a good idea.
Mark Hershey
Specialized Resources, Inc
Richardson, Texas
>>Phillip said (about his cooling fans):
>>
>>> They run for 1 minute and shut off,then they try to come
>>> on several times, but they never run for more than 2
>>> seconds.
>>
>>Dave Swingle responded:
>>
>>> Based on your description, this sounds a lot to me like
>>> the thermal trip instead of the temperature sensor.
>>
>And then Mike Substelny commented:
>>Dave, I have never seen the original thermal trip circuit
>>brealers in action. Would they really stop the fans after just
>>two seconds? I am surprised that cars would ever leave the
>>factory with such a terrible system built in!
>>
>>- - Mike Substelny
>I don't know for sure from first hand experience, I was just theorizing.
>I had suspected that there may be something wrong with one of both of the
>fans that is causing the breaker to heat up, or the breaker itself is
>failing. Anyway, Phillip wrote back again directly and noted that jumping
>the breaker AND the thermal switch had no effect. Still some
>head-scratching going on, I'm afraid.
>
>Interesting note - on mine someone has changed the fans to something
>lifted from a Volkswagen (VW# AU-431-959-455B to be exact). The fit in
>the round part of the fan frame just fine, but they had to use spacers on
>the mounting ears to get the depth correct. I'm not sure I'd
>wholeheartedly recommend them, the are not an exact fit and they had to
>hack up the wiring a little as well. Both fans are identical and look
>like they have been on the car for a very long time. I find it strange
>that both fans had failed, especially since that seems to be a part of
>the car that I have yet to see anyone on the list complaining about.
>
>
>Dave Swingle
>dswingle@enteract.com
>
>------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 12:42:41 -0400
From: Mike Substelny (SUBSTEM@cesmtp.ccf.org)
Subject: DML: Re: Electrical tidbits. Component heating
A big thank you to Mark Hershey for that nice load of
electrical advice. Several of his suggestions appeal
to me.
As Mark suggested, I started carefully cleaning my
relay contacts every few years. This has cut down on
electrical gremlins (especially in the fans) although
that lousy "Start Inhibit" relay still acts up now and
then.
Many of Mark's tips addressed problems of
component heating. My question is: do cars with the
Ducey alternator have worse heating problems than
cars with the Motorolla?
I have noticed that my Ducey alternator can
sometimes struggle to keep everything running at
once. During times of peak load my system voltage
can easily drop below 12 volts.
As I recall from my electronics classes components
like relays and motors that don't get enough voltage
will actually run hotter. So I wonder: do the heating
problems Mark described increase in DeLoreans
running the old alternator?
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1986 23:41:00 -0700
From: Lee Seiler (lseiler@ccnet.com)
Subject: Re: DML: LAFAYETTE CONCOURS S.F. BAY AREA
At 05:32 AM 6/26/97 -0700, you wrote:
> Sunday, July 20th, 1997 I will be showing at the Concours d'Elegance de
> Lafayette.
>
>This show is at Acalanes High School located in the East San Francisco
> Bay Area. About 15 miles East of Oakland.
>
> If you are interested in showing, contact the Lafayette Chamber of
> Commerce, 510.284.7404 or fax 510.284.3109
>
> All San Francisco Bay Area owners - for those of you that I have been
> emailing, this is our chance to show in force. My car is far from
> perfect, but I intend to show it any way. It really is fun, this will
> be my third show.
>
> The D.O.A. events are so far away, it is not practical for me to bring
> my car to those events, so these shows are my only option.
>
> I'm looking forward to meeting my fellow owners there.
>
> Feel free to e-mail me with questions.
>
> SAMUELLE@PACBELL.NET
>
> SCOTT MUELLER
> VIN 002981
>
I am in berkeley, I think I will give them a call and see whats up.
My DMC is no where near Show condition either, but as you say it could be
fun. maby we could get to geather...all that show up and have a DMC dinner
or something?
I will post the infor I get from the the Lafayette Chamber of Commerce.
BTW, my DMC is all original but for tires (which I have) VIN 5729 Grey-
Look forward to trying this show deal out.
Lee
VIN 5729
lee@ccnet.com
Tel: (510) 649-9118 Fax: (510) 848-7613
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #255
*****************************
To unsubscribe from this list, send mail to majordomo@world.std.com
with the message UNSUBSCRIBE DMCNEWS-DIGEST
Back issues are available at http://www.dmcnews.com/
Contact moderator@dmcnews.com if you have problems.
Go to previous digest | Go to next digest.
Back to DeLorean Mailing List Page.
Return to Back Issues page.
Search the back issues.
Having problems with these pages? Have a good idea for the back Issues? Email me at: backissues@dmcnews.com
Member of the LinkExchange