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Volume 02 : Number 081
In this issue:
Seeking to buy; have questions
Re: dmcnews-digest V2 #80
[none]
[none]
[none]
Super DeLorean
HotWheels DeLorean
DeLorean models
Insurance and Kit Car.
D.C. Metro DeLorean association
Maladies,Hot Wheels
Re: DeLorean "Hotwheel"
RE: dmcnews-digest V2 #80
Re: dmcnews-digest V2 #78
Re: Car won't turn over
Removing Factory Radio
Door Handle
Post Mesage
Tell me if I'm within reason here...???
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mr. THX"
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 11:19:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Seeking to buy; have questions
Hi all,
After many, many years of puttin git off, I'm finially looking to
get a DMC. The problem is that I've already invested in one car (Saturn
SL1) and need to hae an addition put on the house for our home theater
35mm projectors AND plan on having kids within a year. With all this
financial bliss, I was looking to get a DMC in good running shape, but
that needs some work. I used to have a '72 Dodge Dart and a Nissan Stanza
and I really miss tinkering.
I'd like to know what to look for in terms of getting a car that
needs work. I'd say one of the most important points is whether the frame
is rusted. What other non-tinkering problems should I look for? I have to
say, I've never rebuilt an engine (yet) so that's something else I'd like
to consider.
Two serious concerns I have:
1) Doors. I've heard that the doors depend on the battery. If the battery
goes dead, how do I get in/out? I've also heard that access to the
battery is dependant on the battery as well. True? Has anyone made simple
mechanical door locks?
2) Insurance. There's no way in hell I'm going to (be able to) pay $3000
a year for insurance. has anyone gotten a good deal on it?
Besides that, I've done some research here in the 'net about the
De's. I plan on hitting the library in the next few weeks. Also, there
was a NJ chapter of some kind of DeLorean group at least in 1993. Anyone
know what happened with them?
Talk to you all soon.
Mike
********************** Mike Gaines
* * * * * starman(AT)cnj.digex.net
* * * * * Personal/Star Wars Page at:
* ****** ** http://cnj.digex.net/~starman/
* * * * * New links to Marathon, Babylon 5
* * * * *
********************** Germans love David Hasselhoff
------------------------------
From: CYKE27(AT)aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:14:21 -0500
Subject: Re: dmcnews-digest V2 #80
TAKE ME OFF THE DAMN MAILING LIST please.
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:33:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [none]
(I sent this message some time ago but a mail-server failure
returned it to me yesterday.)
David,
Very sorry to hear about your loss! What a tough break.
By all means FEMA should consider them lost possessions. After all,
that's what they are. Were the DeLorean models damaged?
Aren't they plastic?
Well, look at it this way, at least your car wasn't damaged.
That would have been downright devastating.
It could have been worse--I didn't see a copy of Stainless
Steel Illusion on your list of lost books.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:34:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [none]
(I sent this message some time ago but a mail-server failure sent it back to
me yesterday. )
Jason,
ANY locksmith should be able to get you into a DeLorean. The door locks
on a DeLorean are very simple. From what I remember (I don't own one yet),
there is only a single set of tumblers. Locksmiths can usually get past that type
of lock within a minute or two. I've never been trained as a locksmith but I can
get into most cars in less than a minute. Don't get the wrong idea. :) My dad's
a mechanic and I thought it was neat to play around with the tools.
There are only two good ways to protect your car from theft. The first is to stay out
of bad areas. The second is to get a lo-jack system. This system involves a
radio transmitter hidden in your car which police can track and recover your car.
It's not available everywhere. Check with your local police department.
While we're on the subject of DeLorean door locks, I remember reading that one
of the well-known problems of the DeLorean is that of the door lock motors
or selonoids burning out and locking you in the car. What can you do at that point?
Drive the car to a mechanic and tell him through the window what happened?
I don't think anybody could crawl through those tiny windows.
Would disconnecting the battery deenergize the selonoid and let you out?
That must be really embarassing. Anybody here ever have it happen to them?
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:36:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [none]
(I'm having to send these messages by pasting them into a telnet
session to the SMTP port on another server so forgive me if they
format incorrectly.)
Stormrider,
The best way to find and fix a vacuum leak is to start at the source
and logically work your way through the entire system. There is
really only one source and that is the engine. Have someone sit in
the car and listen for the sound. While that person is listening,
start at one end of the intake manifold and work your way to the fuel
injection and then the other end of the manifold, unhooking each
connection and plugging it with your finger as you go. When you work
your way to the connection causing the leak, the sound in the dash
will stop. Plug that connection back in and work your way down that
section of the system until you stop the leak again. Keep following
that branch and you will eventually get to the component that is
causing the problem. The way you will know is that you will
disconnect the line on the other side of the component and plug it
and the hissing will not stop. If this isn't clear, give me a call
at (703)780-4299 and I will try to explain it further.
A method that some mechanics use is to spray carb cleaner around
various parts of the engine compartment until the engine changes
speed. When that happens, the part you just sprayed is the one
causing the leak. I don't like to use that method as I'm sure carb
cleaner is not good for rubber or plastic parts and will damage any
paint or stickers you spray it on.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:52:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Super DeLorean
DeLornut,
That's the second 500+ horsepower DeLorean I've heard of. The
other is/was owned by Smokey Yunick (very famous race mechanic).
His son was trying to sell it a couple years ago but I don't
know if he ever did or not. Does anyone have any more information
on this car? It'd certainly be interesting to hear about some
of the methods Yunick used. He is well known for some very
unconventional methods of extracting every last possilbe ounce
of horsepower out of an engine. Anybody have any info on it?
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 14:02:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: HotWheels DeLorean
The "HotWheels" DeLorean that has been mentioned on this list
is not actually a HotWheels (tm) toy. It is sold under the
name Fast-Lane. These are the cheap HotWheels rip-offs made
in China. I looked throught quite a few Toys-R-Us' and found
many many Fast-Lane cars but none of them were DeLoreans.
Unfortunately, I live in the same area as the person who
originally posted this bit of info and apparently he's gotten
all of them from this area. He is now selling his DeLorean
and I don't think he is reading this list anymore as he
cancelled his AOL account.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 14:10:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: DeLorean models
I've been considering building a DeLorean model with the help
of my grandfather. We're looking at using SS304 stainless
but would rather find something with a smaller grain so it's
closer to scale. I've tried reaching Kapac about the
licensing required but the number I have must be wrong or
old. Does anyone have their current number?
The model I'm considering would be fairly well detailed with
actual stainless steel for the body and miniaturized glove
leather for the interior. The engine compartment would not
open nor would the bonnett but I'm considering the possibility
of openning doors. If this model were close to the quality
normally expected of Franklin Mint, (other than the lack of an
openning engine compartment) how much would you be
willing to pay for it?
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 11:37:22 -0800
Subject: Insurance and Kit Car.
Absolutely not! I personally was shocked when I saw that post for
a $3000 premium. Where is thi guy and what inurance company is he using so
everyone can avoid it.
In regards to the DeLorean Look-Alike. Well, i'll tell you. When
looking for my DeLorean, I came upon an add for a "DeLorean Kit Car" for
significantly less then an actuall "D". I had planned to buy these both,
but when I turned up to look at the Kit Car...it seems that the owner
really meant that it had some related features.
To tell the truth, I didn't find it to look anything like a
DeLorean. More like a cross between a Trans-Am and a Corvette. Gull Wing
Doors?...Forget it.
Speaking of which. Does anybody know how to get in touch with that
man in California, I belive that will convert structually acceptable cars
into gull wings?
Wolfie
------------------------------
From: mail06754(AT)pop.net
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 14:42:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: D.C. Metro DeLorean association
Ok. Now that this list has grown so tremendously
I'll post this question again:
***IS ANYONE INTERESTED IN STARTING A D.C. CHAPTER
OF THE DOA? OR EVEN AN INDEPENDENT CLUB? HOW ABOUT
SOME INFORMAL MEETINGS TO GET STARTED?***
I'm actually located in Northern Virginia but I'm so
close to D.C. and Maryland, they would be included
as well.
If interested, e-mail me at mail06754(AT)pop.net or call
me at (703)780-4299.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 11:54:01 +0000
Subject: Maladies,Hot Wheels
That "charging sound" is the fuel pump coming up to pressure.
You guys really ought to read. These "Hot Wheel" packages wern't
made by Mattel. They were a house brand, made in china.
Chris
------------------------------
From: dlowery(AT)ix.netcom.com (Dennis Lowery)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 20:29:00 -0800
Subject: Re: DeLorean "Hotwheel"
>HotWheels?
>
>This whole thing has got me going. A few weeks ago I went down to the local
>Toys 'R Us to see what I could find. I plowed through the display of
>HotWheels cars to find the TransAm/DMC package.
>Are you guys sure it was HotWheels?
Let me try to clear tings up a little. When I originally posted information
to the list describing the Delorean toy car I described it as a "Hotwheels"
type car. (meaning it was the same size but NOT a hotwheel, nor is it
manufactured by or for Mattel)
The product you should look for is:
FAST LANE
Double Value Pack
(this is printed in large letters on the front of
the package)
It is made in China and is marketed by Geoffrey, Inc.(read Toys R' Us,
remember Geoffrey the giraffe?)and is distributed Toys R' Us.
They are packaged in a double blister pack(you get two cars!) Mine came with
a black Trans Am(just like the one in Smokey and the Bandit).
I hope this clears up the confusion!
BTW...There is a Hotwheel Delorean that was made in 1981 and was called the
Turismo (#1694)look at "TOMART'S PRICE GUIDE TO HOTWHEELS" page 66. It is
not an exact replica but it's pretty close! THESE ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE
IN STORES!!!!!!
Good Luck,
Dennis Lowery
------------------------------
From: SKYWALKER
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 2:12:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: dmcnews-digest V2 #80
greetings, just to let you know... to whoever thought Doc brown re-routed the
fuel line so that it is hit by an arrow in BTTF3... take a closer look at that
scene... the fuel's leaking from the underside, but Marty pulls tha arrow out
of one of the add-ons in the nuclear reactor assembly... in fact you even hear
the arrow pull from a metallic source.... thanx
------------------------------
From: Garry Hewitt
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 96 09:30:47
Subject: Re: dmcnews-digest V2 #78
Hi all from sunny(??) England.
A few people seem to be having the same probs I've come across re
difficult starting and cabin ventilation, so here is what I've found:
I suffered from difficult starting and the ignominy of being
jump-started several times in public before sussing out
my problem. What would happen is when turning the
ignition key, all the dash lights went dim and I could
here the starter relay clicking. This turned out to be a
rusted earth connection where the battery earth wire
joins the chassis. After having it removed by blowtorch
(The same bolt is one of two holding the suspension
trailing arm on so I wanted it replaced) I did not have
any more problems for 3-4 years. However yesterday when I
went to see the car for its fortnightly Winter run, I had the same
thing again. After getting it running by jump-start etc, I felt under
the car and lo and behold- one very hot connection
indicating high resistance-> bad earth. What I plan to do when (if)
Summer returns is remove this earth lead entirely and run a longer one
directly to the block- there is already one from the
block to the chassis which I will leave in place. So, if
anyone has any starting/charging problems, check/clean
all positive and negative leads from
battery/chassis/block/alternator before looking at
replacing other expensive and time consuming bits.
To my ventilation, or lack of. Since owning the car I had no more than
a feeble trickle of air from the vents. The most obvious
thing I checked first- the fan. All the connections were
on, and holding it in my hand and running it, it appeared to revolve in
the right direction. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
after spending a total of over two days in two complete
dashboard/heating system removals (resulting in the need
for a new lower heating shroud due to incorrect removal - it should
have come out in one whole piece, not two broken pieces!) I
eventually learned that the fan motor can develop a fault whereby it
spins backwards! It took ten seconds to swap the
connections over on the motor, filling the cabin with glorious
outside air. Since telling people of this I have heard
from several others with the same problem, so it seems a
common one.
Despite the problems I have had with my car, I love
driving it and being seen in it. There are only a handful on the road
over here (most ex-USA cars like mine) so it causes a
double-take and general commotion wherever it goes- I
still remeber the first day I turned up at work in it
having kept its purchase a secret! I only have one major
niggle- it attracts the wrong sex when parked anywhere,
although my girlfriend loves this!
Garry Hewitt
------------------------------
From: stormrider(AT)socketis.net (Chase Clark)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 12:47:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Car won't turn over
Wolfie:
There was a starter solenoid circuit modification recommended on the early
DeLoreans which could cause the problem you are experiencing. The service
bulletin claims it is only needed on vehicle before VIN 2548, but I would
check it out anyway as it is a simple modification.
For reference, this is Service Bulletin ST-05-2/82
"On early vehicles, the starter solenoid's operating voltage, in certain
conditions, was not high enough to ensure a consistent, reliable operation.
This condition was displayed by a voltage drop characteristic in the main
wiring harness on vehicles with slightly discharged batteries. This
condition is generally displayed by a clicking noise at the solenoid
without any starter cranking."
The service bulletin is two pages long with diagram showing the
modification, it involves only three wires connecting to the starter relay
and the fan speed circuit breaker. I can send you a copy of the procedure
if you would like. Just let me know.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: stormrider(AT)socketis.net (Chase Clark)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 12:51:44 -0600
Subject: Removing Factory Radio
OK, now that people have described how to remove the front speakers, I was
wondering if anyone would like to tackle explaining how the radio comes
out? I know that the air vents above it must be removed and there is a
bolt/nut that holds the radio in place in back, but I have no clue how to
undo the nut. I have been able to take out the plastic vents and the two
flexible rubber pieces behind them, but still can't reach the nut.
Installing my Alpine CD player is not a real high priority to me at the
moment, but I assume I need to get the radio out anyway if I want to check
out the AC/heater controls below it on the centre console.
Thanks in advance
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Bdofprey(AT)aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 20:26:13 -0500
Subject: Door Handle
I had to remove the driver's door panels along with the handle to repair the
window motor. Is there a special tool that people have been using to
re-install the door handle? I have a very long extension screwdriver that I
tried, but with no success. With both panels on, I have my extension
screwdriver wedged between the bottom corner of the lower panel while I'm
holding the handle in place, hoping that the screw holes on the bracket match
up with the ones one the handle. If they did I wouldn't know because when I
pull the panel apart enough to see, the holes will misalign. What am I doing
wrong??
------------------------------
From: mack777(AT)ix.netcom.com (James McBurney)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 17:57:31 -0800
Subject: Post Mesage
until I can fix into original condition. E-mail mack777(AT)ix.netcom.com
Don't hesitate if anything you will get a friendly response.
Thanks
------------------------------
From: awolf(AT)pacific.telebyte.net
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 18:14:34 -0800
Subject: Tell me if I'm within reason here...???
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keyport Auto:
I am certainly not liking what I am seeing here.
I brought you a precious possession of mine, trusting you
would competently fix a wiper problem (diagnosed to be a problem
with a relay and to have my front end inspected) during which time,
my wiper switch was destroyed, my car was allowed to sit uncovered
in the elements, I recently learned the car wouldn't start at all
after an unnecessary several mile test drive, and now the battery
is dead. Call that competent? I don't.
My car has not moved at all since Thursday, two weeks ago.
Believe me, I've been checking. Even the interior has remained
exactly the same as you have left it.
I provided you with all necessary information with the
hope that something would be done. Obviously I was wrong. Nothing
has been done and I haven't so much as received a phone call on the
subject.
Here's what you need to do.
1) Move the car inside. It is usually garaged, and had I
known it would have been more then a few days, I would
have specified it was to be indoors.
I am doing so now.
2) Diagnose the starter problem. I recommend you look at
the wire harness and work your way from there. I will not
pay for this.
3) Print out a comprehensive estimate which will include all
charges, a parts list, prices for those parts, discounts, labor
charges, and a complete description of that labor.
I will not pay for:
Labor involved in destroying my switch.
Wiper/turn signal switch.
Labor involved in replacing my switch.
Labor in determining the start problem.
Parts required to fix start problem.
Labor involved in fixing start problem.
Next day shipping charges.
Phone time.
I will pay only for those charges that pertain SPECIFICALLY to
the diagnosis, removal/replacement of the wiper switch, and that
required to jack the car up and diagnose a bearing problem.
4) CALL ME when this is done. I will come to look it over
and give you my approval and authorization for work in
person.
5) Order any and all parts necessary to bring my car and it's
wipers into working order from Tim at Swedish Auto at NO
cost to me. (Parts, phone time, next day shipping charges,
etc.)
6) Order 1 used relay from Tim at Swedish Automotive for
$40. If this is no longer available, you may purchase a new
or higher priced relay and pay the difference..
7) Install the complete wiper/turn signal assembly. I will not
pay for the installation or labor. Install it as ONE UNIT.
8) Install the new relay and seat it properly.
9) Restore my car to running order. I will not pay for this.
10) Accomplish the above by: First thing Wednesday morning.
I will pick it up at my convenience.
From this fiasco, and from the outrageous charges from my
tune up last time which did not accomplish what was promised, I've
come to the conclusion that I will be changing mechanics immediately
after your work is finished.
Anthony R. Wolf
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #81
****************************
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