DeLorean Mailing List - 3/13/96


dmcnews-digest	Thursday, 13 March 1997	Volume 02 : Number 220

In this issue:
Re: Electric Turbo
Re: Removal of Side Mouldings
Re: Removal of Side Mouldings?
Cost of side moldings
Re: Re: DeLorean frame
Turbos
News
DMC commercial in INTEL format
Re: Faulty Brake Lights...Can't Be!
Re: Turbos
Brake Rotors
Pivot Action Bolt in shift linkage
DeLorean for $6,000
Translucent paints
Re: Pivot Action Bolt in shift linkage
Turbos
Re: Another Fix for Brake Lights
RE: Brake Lights Again
New DeLorean
Re: Pivot Action Bolt
RE: Back lights again (corrected)
Re: Translucent paints
East Coast Events
Dependable???
After MARKET!
vin 4002
Re: Dependable???
Re: Dependable???

---------------------------------------------------------------------- 

From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:36:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Electric Turbo

Matt and Marty's comments about the electric turbo are interesting. It appears 
that such a device would eliminate the "heat" problems associated with regular 
turbos and would eliminate any thoughts of intercoolers. Having the boost 
available only at full throttle doesn't sound too good. A
manual overide switch would certainly solve a lot of problems. This should
enable one to go into boost almost immediately even at low speeds - which, in my 
opinion is where you often need the extra horsepower (and don't get from a 
regular turbo).

An aside to Matt: I wouldn't take the claims of 50% horsepower increase at
6psi without a grain of salt. You might get 50% with higher boost levels, but 
would sacrifice engine longevity. Based upon my experience, I'd say a 30% gain 
is much more realistic (i.e., 40+ horsepower). 

Anybody else out there who has any thoughts on *actual* increase at 6psi? 

Dick Ryan




------------------------------

From: Mike Substelny  Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:30:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of Side Mouldings

Chase wanted to know:

>if anyone has any knowledge/experience with the removal of the side rubber 
moldings on the DeLorean? I . . . am curious if they are attached to the body 
or just mounted with adhesive strips?

They are attached with adhesive. No sheet metal screws, rivets, or anything else. 
Unless your car is painted you can probably use a commercial solvent 
(maybe acetone?) that will remove the adhesive without harming the plastic. 

The new ones that Kapac sells have the adhesive tape backing. If you just want 
to reattach your old ones I do not know what glue a professional would use. When 
I had a few pieces getting loose last year I used drops of plain old rubber 
cement. So far it looks great.

- -Mike Substelny


------------------------------

From: magriese(AT)vnet.ibm.pc
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 97 09:35:13 CST
Subject: Re: Removal of Side Mouldings?

FWIW I have had the short mouldings off on my car. They were just glued on. I 
suspect the longer strips on the door are glued on also. To reattach them, clean 
off all of the old adhesive and stick'em back on with 3M Trim and Emblem cement. 

Mike Griese
magriese(AT)vnet.ibm.com



------------------------------

From: James Espey 
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 97 09:48:54 -0000
Subject: Cost of side moldings

Exercise care when removing/replacing those side moldings! I recently THOUGHT 
about replacing mine in preparation for concours and called KAPAC to order a 
complete set. Remember, in Nashville KAPAC gave away a pair of the small moldings 
that fit in front of the side parking lights. Well, each of these little pieces 
runs about $20. A complete set is about $600. Instead of buying a whole set all
at once, I'm stretching it out over the next six months...

James Espey
Just because it's always been done that way does not make it right. 



------------------------------

From: Mike Substelny  Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 11:45:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean frame

>I am looking at buying an 81 delorean the seller is asking $6,000 for it. The 
car needs a new frame and new tires. Do you think the car is worth $6k with the 
frame being competely shot? 

This may be best used as a parts car. As long as the body panels are good and 
no parts are missing you can probably get your $6,000 back (plus make a profit) 
just by parting it out.

If the frame is the only problem this DeLorean may be restorable. But if the 
frame is damaged beyond repair then I would bet that there are other problems 
with this car. For example, the electrical system may be plagued by corrosion. 
The interior is probably shot, too. This car might be a good deal, especially 
for someone who owns several DeLoreans, but I would not recommend it as your 
first DeLorean. I expect that you can buy a drivable DeLorean for less than 
the cost of restoring this one.

- -Mike Substelny


------------------------------

From: ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 08:10:08 +0000
Subject: Turbos

Jameel,

Get a copy of Stainless Steel Illusion. On page 110 you'll find a discussion of 
the Legend Industries setup that was projected for the DeLorean, and may be the 
unit you refer to as being installed on #502. This is a twin turbo setup like the 
one advertised in DeLorean world.

I have these units on my car, #6301, and am VERY pleased with them. My only 
complaint is with the quality of the cast tubes from the turbos to the intake.

At risk of sounding like an ad for Island Turbos, you should have these units. 
Call them up and request information. Eleanor is very helpful and very nice to 
talk to on the phone. I hope to meet her someday in person. I have no idea what 
the current price of the kit is but I'm sure they've gone up. Total, with 
installation, will exceed $4,500.00 and you'll surprise a lot of sports cars for 
the price. These units give the DeLorean performance to go with the look. 

I've done a couple of other things to mine that has been described in previous 
letters.

Chris



------------------------------

From: michael richard pack  Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:02:28 -0500 (EST) Subject: News

1. I was on location with my company recently, and I came across a book store
that had some DeLorean books. The store owner sold me a book "Wheels" by Arthur 
Hailey. The books author used John Z. DeLorean's story at GM up to his resignation 
in 1973. ( I think that Arthur Haileys name is published in a DeLorean Book, and 
the reference about this book is also there)

2. The GULLWING door adjustments day is on April 12 1997 Contact:

Aldo Buono
515 W. Chelten Ave., Suite 1009
Philadelphia PA 19144
215-849-5160

3. Who besides James, Chris and myself are planning on attending the Belfast trip?
I'm taking a 16mm film camera to make a documentary on the trip itself for my film 
school portfolio. 

See you in Ireland!
Michael



------------------------------

From: Dan Baisley  Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:47:36 -0500
Subject: DMC commercial in INTEL format

Hey, I've converted the Mac quicktime video from James Espey's homepage to Intel 
quicktime format. You can find it at http://dmc.gt.ed.net. This page will stay up 
until James has a chance to put it on the Delorean News page. I've only tested 
this with the W95 version of quicktime, but it should work
with W3.1 too. Let me know if you have any problems. 

Dan
- --------------------------------------------------------------------- 

I'm hungry. Let's get a taco.
__________________________________________________________ 



------------------------------

From: James Espey 
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 97 14:02:47 -0000
Subject: Re: Faulty Brake Lights...Can't Be! 

>>What's the most common failure in the DMC's rear light cluster? Is there 
something to look out for or something preventative we could do? 
>>thanks,
>>Ian
>>________________________________________ Ian Haddock
>>backissues(AT)dmcnews.com
>>The DeLorean Mailing List Back Issue Guy. 
>>Visit: http://www2.inow.com/~ian/index.html 
Vintage Volkswagen, Macintosh, DeLorean. 

>Ian there are two approaches. If you have the original circuit boards, first 
take them out. Them clean the contact with a rubber eraser or some spry on 
contact cleaner, or both. Then get a punch or small phillips screwdriver and 
"punch" the rivets and the connector rivet. These have a tendency to vibrate 
loose over time. The other approach is to get one of the new "industrial 
strength" sets from Rob Grady or DeLorean One. 
>(SNIP)

>Dick Ryan

I'd like to point out another approach, one that has been presented here on 
the DML several times. This was first published in DMC-News #7, way back in 
August of 1995. I recently archived all the 1995 stuff, so I will re-type the 
tip here:

>Go to Radio Shack and buy one package of #64-3010 and one package of #64-3017 
(small machine screws and nuts). Remove your tail light boards and put one screw 
through each of the hollow rivets holding the light sockets. Tighten these down 
with a vengeance. 

Chris Shephard attributed this to Knut Grimsrud who attributes it to Arnie Brandon. 
I take credit for typing it this time. :) 

I did this when I had a an intermittent tail light problem and it fixed the 
problem. This was over a year ago. It is cetainly not as elegant as buying new 
circuit baords, but it is about $100 cheaper and accomplishes the same result.


James "Mikasa" Espey
Just because it's always been done that way does not make it right. 




------------------------------

From: backissues(AT)dmcnews.com (The Back Issue Guy)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 19:30:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Turbos

At 8:10 AM 3/10/97, ausmith(AT)pdx.oneworld.com wrote: [snip]

>This is a twin turbo setup like the one advertised in DeLorean world. 

>I have these units on my car, #6301, and am VERY pleased with them. My only 
complaint is with the quality of the cast tubes from the turbos to the intake.
>[snip]
>Total, with installation, will exceed $4,500.00 and you'll surprise a lot of 
sports cars for the price. These units give the DeLorean performance to go with 
the look.
>[snip]

>Chris

At the risk of being one of many email's crying "it exists!" I'll throw my .02 
into the fray. I had assumed, after reading the "Gold Portfolio" book, that the 
Bankruptcy of DMC caused Legend Industries to fold as well. The book then goes 
on to say that only two were made, one in the famous #502 and one put on a 
pedestal for "promotional purposes." 

Did Island Turbo's acquire the blueprints and now produce them? I would love 
to know the history of who and how it got into production again. 

And as a purely astatic (sp?) question, Are the Turbo's painted black with the 
DMC logo on the top or are they unpainted? 

thanks,
Ian


 

------------------------------

From: WINGD2(AT)aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 01:35:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: Brake Rotors

Matt,
I,too, have been chasing the elusive brake rotor thing for quite a while
and I agree with your info. It seems the Delorean rotors are specific to this
car. If you have been able to find the source for these thats terrific. I know 
there are mininum run quantities on items like this but the D shops sure
arn't loosing money on resale.
Anyway, on cross drilling. I've done some digging into the science behind this 
and have found out a few interesting things. First you must be careful with the 
quantity,size and location of the holes. Drilled rotors are
somewhat prone to cracking, espically if the holes are too close together, too 
close to the edge of the disc or too numerous in quantity. I also found
out that the hole pattern has nothing to do with performance with the following 
exceptions: If the rotor is drilled with holes, they need to be drilled on an 
arc (not in a straight line) and if the rotor is sloted, the slots need to be 
in a straight line (not on an arc). The guys from Russel performance (a high 
pro brake outfit) told me they found this out this year
at Daytona thru trial and error. They don't know why this is, they just know
doing the opposite of the above creates severe brake chatter. They also told
me there is no science to cross drilling. Its all a mater of trial and error.

As far as actually cross drilling the rotors is concerned, its a very simple 
thing. The rotors are made of cast iron and thus are easy to drill. The secret 
is in the layout. If you know anyone with an indexing or divider
head (at any machine shop) the job is simple. It took me maybe 15-20min to do
each one of mine. Any good machine shop should be able to do one for about 
$15-20ea. If you do get your guy to do the drilling for you see if he will supply 
any sort of warrenty. I know many of the shops that do this work will
not guarentee it because of the potential for cracking. 
Like you were saying, the problem with the D rotors is warping. I've only 
noticied this on the front.(does anyone have problems with the backs?).
I think part of the reason for this is the back rotors are open to the air.
The front ones have backing plates which restrict air flow to them. (I realize 
the fronts do most of the work and therefor probably get hotter also). I have 
also vented the backing plates to help with cooling. Another problem that can 
lead to warping is incorrectly torqued bolts and wheel lugs.
Like someone on the list said, do them right with a torque wrench, not an air
impact.
Another item that will improve braking is braided stainless steel brake
lines. They work on the same principle as the braided clutch line, They eliminate 
hose flex/balooning. Remember the lines on our cars are about 15 years old. I've 
been working for the past few months with a friend at Goodridge Co in England. 
They have been in the specialty hose business for 30
plus years. They supply all the Formula 1 car and bike teams and all the pro
rally cars in Europe with plumbing, including brake hoses. They are the first
company to have just passed the European and USA DOT tests with SS brake lines. 
I gave my stock hoses to him and he is making me a set of SS braided
lines to OEM /DOT specs with the correct metric bulkhead ends.(not std hoses
with adaptors like all the other hose mfg's). These lines will also be plastic 
coated to protect from abraiding from the SS jacket. In the rear of
the car the cooling system hoses run next to the brake hoses. Std SS braided
lines would eat the water hoses up. Once I get mine installed I'll let everyone 
know how they work. If anyone is interested in a set of these lines,
once we get all the specs finalized he thinks other sets could be made for 
$100 -120 per set. The installation of these lines will not require any 
modifications to the car.
Back to the drilled rotors, Matt, I'd be interested in a set if you can
work things out. You never know, I may need them soon !
Marty


------------------------------

From: Marc Levy 
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:30:27 -0500
Subject: Pivot Action Bolt in shift linkage 

>Twice in the last month the pivot action bolt has backed out of the captive nut,

Mine broke last year. I put a regular bolt in with some washers until I got a new 
one from PJ grady. The bolt itself has a shoulder, and specific thread length. It 
is possible your bolt was replace at some point with the incorrect one, and this 
is why it backed out. If I remember correctly, there was a not that stopped it 
from backing out.. 

If you do go with some sort of chemical bond on the bold, use the weakest one you 
can find.



------------------------------

From: Bryan Pearce  Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 08:45:49 -0600
Subject: DeLorean for $6,000

In Digest Issue #219 Chad Kingsley wrote: 

>I am looking at buying an 81 delorean the seller is asking $6,000 for it. The 
car needs a new frame and new tires. Do you think the car is worth $6k
>with the frame being competely shot?

Chad,

If the body panels and interior are in great condition, the car would probably be 
worth $6,000. Now the only thing to consider is if you have the hours of time and 
money to do a frame up restoration. My guess is that the restoration process 
would cost about $15,000 to replace the frame and the other parts you will need 
along the way. 

Bryan P.
bryan(AT)denebcorp.com


------------------------------

From: Aaron Barrus 
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:29:57 -0700
Subject: Translucent paints

>JZD and DMC were experimenting with both translucent paints and colored plastic 
body panels, but none were ever used on productions cars sold to the public.

I've considered sanding all the paint off of my car and varnishing it - or 
coating it with some type of clear sealant. I've had doubts as to wether it
would 'stick' though, and didn't know how to treat the metal. Probably just a 
stupid idea from a wannabe - but the delorean's steel is so beautiful! Chase, 
do you know move about what JZD was doing? 


------------------------------

From: Jameel Ahed 
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 09:35:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Pivot Action Bolt in shift linkage 

I am buying an 81... with 65,000 on it... I am scared that this nut will fall 
off of my car and I was wondering if you can give me the part numbers for all 
those things you need to replace that whole thing... I want to order it now 
before I even get my car... I am just scared I will have problem coming back 
from Seattle washington (where I am buying it from) see I live in Illinois... 
and I want this car so bad, I want to replace all the bad stuff... I just don't 
want things to happen on the way home! Jameel

- -------------------------------------------------- 
Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH Industries 
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions 
HOMEPAGE: http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ 
VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu
- -------------------------------------------------- 


------------------------------

From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:26:25 -0700
Subject: Turbos

I have been running the Island Twin Turbos on my car for over 30,000 miles.
Car had over 50,000 miles when they were installed. My DMC has the automatic 
transmission. Is anyone else running turbos with the automatic and have you 
had problems with the automatic because of the strain of the extra horsepower?

I am apparently looking at a "new" transmission and it has been suggested that 
the turbos were much of the problem and that if I want to get good mileage out 
of the transmission, I should remove the turbos. 

BTW, I have both a transmission cooler and an engine oil cooler. 

Thoughts????

Dick Ryan
The Rad Dad




------------------------------

From: GullWinged(AT)aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 16:13:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Another Fix for Brake 
Lights 

>>Go to Radio Shack and buy one package of #64-3010 and one package of #64-3017 
(small machine screws and nuts). Remove your tail light boards and put one screw 
through each of the hollow rivets holding the light sockets. Tighten these down 
with a vengeance. 

>Chris Shephard attributed this to Knut Grimsrud who attributes it to Arnie 
Brandon. I take credit for typing it this time. :) 

Perhaps modesty kept James from mentioning another 'little' fix. I tried the 
above approach and it did not entirely work, although it did help with some of 
the problems. However, the parking lights were still troublesome. I could tap 
the boards with my fist and the lights would come on, but the 'fix' was always 
short lived. Eventually, I went out and got new bulbs for the rear boards from 
AutoZone (approx. $12) and tried them out. Same problem.

After some experimenting (and cussing) I figured out that the light bulbs and 
the metal sockets were not making good contact on the troublesome ones. So 
what I did is what James did to one of his fgront turn signals last year - I 
took a pair of pliers and bent the sockets slightly on all of them so that 
the light bulbs would make adequate and consistent electrical contact. It has 
been about three months and so far the solution(s) appear to be working still.

Chase Clark

'81 DMC-12
VIN#1529



------------------------------

From: CDIUSAMPS(AT)aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 01:02:00 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE: Brake Lights Again

Having the same intermittent problem with the back lights on my DMC, I replaced 
the circuit boards and bulbs and continued to have the same problem.
I then unplugged the boards and cleaned the connectors from the car with contact 
cleaner and emory paper. I then took needle nose pliers and pinched
the connectors closer together and put everything back together. I have had
no problems with the tail lights at all since this fix in Aug 97. Just my 2
cents worth. BILL

------------------------------

From: Duke Bladorn 
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 22:50:20 -0600
Subject: New DeLorean

I ACTUALLY have a drawing of what would have been the 'next generation' DeLorean 
if DeLorean would have continued making the car. It was in a VERY
old magazine that a friend gave to me about 10 years ago. Unfortunately it
is only a b/w picture and was not very easy to scan a decient picture of, but 
its the best I could do. There was an article attached to it that I edited out 
to save space, but since it didn't take up that much space anyway
so I will rescan it with the complete artice later on this week but atleast
you can take a look at it on my web page at:. 

www.geocities.com/motorcity/8952/delorean.html 

Just click on the 'see pictures' and it will take you to it. 

Enjoy!!!!

Duke Bladorn
duke(AT)entremob.com


------------------------------

From: Mike Substelny  Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:34:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Pivot Action Bolt

Jameel said:

>I am scared that this nut will fall off of my car and I was wondering if you can 
give me the part numbers for all those things you need to replace that whole 
thing... I want to order it now before I even get my car . . . 

Jameel, the pivot action bolt is more likely to fail in city driving than on the 
highway. Mine has never come loose, although another guy in Cleveland did have 
it happen once a few years back. I believe it can only happen while changing 
gears, so it is unlikely to be a problem on a highway-only trip.

On a that trip you should be more worried about your speedometer angle drive, 
which is a nuisance but it does not leave you stranded. Also look over the 
coolant hoses before departing, if one of them bursts you WILL be stranded! 

At the start of the trip you should top off the fuel tank frequently. You want 
to become savvy at reading the DeLorean fuel gauge, which may read inaccurately 
or not at all. You don't want to run out of gas on the highway. 

If I think of anything else I'll send it in later. 

- -Mike Substelny


------------------------------

From: CDIUSAMPS(AT)aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 14:16:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE: Back lights again (corrected) 

That should be Aug 96, if I could read a calender, I would be dangerous. 
BILL

------------------------------

From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:13:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Translucent paints


>I've considered sanding all the paint off of my car and varnishing it - or 
coating it with some type of clear sealant. I've had doubts as to wether it
>would 'stick' though, and didn't know how to treat the metal. Probably just 
a stupid idea from a wannabe - but the delorean's steel is so beautiful! Chase, 
do you know move about what JZD was doing? 

A few DeLoreans have been clear coated (after the fact). I don't know how they 
were prepared and I have not seen one in person, only pictures. If paint can 
adhere, why not clear coat?
Dick Ryan




------------------------------

From: michael richard pack  Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:59:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: East Coast Events

I thought that since there was an interest in the East Coast activities, I would 
post some more events for the DeLorean. 

20 th Annual Bowie British Car Day
Sunday June 22, 1997
Allens Pond Park
Bowie Maryland
15 min. from Washington DC
Fields open at 9:00am
THE FIELD WILL BE OPEN TO ONLY 650 CARS THIS YEAR. 
Preregistration by June 1 is $12.00

Below is the address to write to for more info. 

PO Box 1601
Lorton, VA 22199-1601
Web site http://members.aol.com/MGTClub. or contact
Larry Hallanger at
lawrence.w.hallanger(AT)jnpcs.com
or 703-323-1260 or
by mail at the above address.



BRITFEST 97
Location:
Moss Moters, LTD.
Unit 4A,
Hamilton Business Park
Dover, New Jersey 07801

Saturday April 26, 1997
9am until 3pm

Contact
Charles Tregidgo
12-68 Fourth Street
Fail Lawn, NJ 07410
201 796-5445 days
210-796-8648 evenings




To take advantage of the annual Gullwing door adjustments and DeLorean safety 
check, you must be a CURRENT member of DELOREAN MID-ATLANTIC. Annual dues are 
just $12.00. For the $12.00 you receive the monthly newsletter, newly revised 
parts interchange list, membership directory, and door & safety check.
Mail check to
Dick Lash
409 Lark Drive
Newark DE. 19713

Send inquiries to
Aldo Buono
515 W. Chelten Ave., Suite 1009
Philadelphia PA 19144



------------------------------

From: Jameel Ahed 
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:46:04 -0600
Subject: Dependable???

Dear DMCnews,
Is the Delorean a dependable car... even now, 15 years later? I know what you 
guys are going to say... "As long as the recalls have been changed, and the car 
is maintained properly... Sure it should last!" I am worried. I have only owned 
BRAND NEW vehicles in my life. I have worked on so many other peopls cars and 
fixed them up for them, but I am worried... I am planning to buy a 1981 Delorean 
from Tacoma Washington. I live in Illinois, 30min south of chicago. My father and 
I are planning to fly over and buy the car. I want to drive it home cuz I don't 
trust it with anybody... Hey I don't trust anyone but me when it comes to a 
manual transmission... But, anyway, realistically the car should be shipped... 
Question#1 does anyone know a good transport company? If so how is the car 
transported, and approximately how much does it cost??? Question#2 if I were 
to drive the 2000+miles home, what should I change before I make this long 
drive home... Should I put a full set up hoses on? belts too??? How about that 
pivot bolt? You guys are the experts... Let me know what I should do? Oh... 
what about the spark plugs???
Thanx for helping me...
Jameel Ahed

- --
- -------------------------------------------------- 
Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH Industries 
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions 
HOMEPAGE: http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ 
VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu
- -------------------------------------------------- 


------------------------------

From: Jameel Ahed 
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:48:43 -0600
Subject: After MARKET!

Dear DMCNEWS,
Is their a catalog full with aftermarket things for the Delorean??? Or atleast 
something close?
- --
- -------------------------------------------------- 
Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH Industries 
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions 
HOMEPAGE: http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ 
VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu
- -------------------------------------------------- 

------------------------------

From: Greg DELIOS  Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 08:30:55 +1030
Subject: vin 4002

Hi,
I am considering the purchase of a DMC with a VIN of 4002, does anyone know 
anything about this particular car? 

Thanks in advance,

Greg.



------------------------------

From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 06:28:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Dependable???

Jameel

I recently shipped my car from Colorado to New Yok - 1800. It was shipped via
United Van Lines inside a moving van. It was an exceptionally clean and well 
thought out set up. Cost was $1200. 

Dick Ryan




------------------------------

From: James Nichols  Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:09:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Dependable???

Jameel,

I have owned only one BRAND NEW car in my life, a '58 TR-3. This was probably 
the last "Brand New" and definitely my last British car. If you are very quiet, 
you can you can sit down and listen to them rust. This was also my introduction 
to "LUCAS-Prince of Darkness". 

You ask the question of what should be replaced and no one can answer that 
unless they have looked at the car. All rubber parts are suspect, belts-cracked 
or glazed, tires-tread condition and sidewalls weather checked, the many coolant 
stub hoses-bulged, cracked or weeping and original or new stainless clamps, fuel 
lines and injector lines, either soft or rock hard. Will the battery hold a 
charge for more than three days? Is the engine oil black? You would need a 
garage and a couple days to check everything. A shop manual and a parts manual 
and a good set of tools are a MUST.

If that Delorean really has been well maintained, you should be able to drive 
it to Illinois without incident. Too many people consider that filling the gas 
tank, paying insurance, putting oil in when the red light comes on, and 
replacing the tires when they are bald, is maintaining a car. However, since 
you are not familiar with the Delorean systems or maintaining an old car, your 
best bet would be to have the car shipped. If you were buying and driving a 
'66 Mustang across the country that would be a different story since every 
little garage along the road has worked on many of these. 

In any case DO NOT BUY THE CAR UNTIL YOU HAVE LOOKED AT IT! 

Jim #6884


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End of dmcnews-digest V2 #220
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