DeLorean Mailing List - 3/27/98


Friday, March 27 1998         Volume 03 : Number 344



       In this issue:
        Re: DML: headlights/transmission
        DML: Lawrenceburg Kentucky
        RE: DML: NEW #2219
        Re: DML:  Blue-Yellow Wire?????
        Re: DML: DMC Font & R406-a
        DML: Door lock fix
        Re: DML: Car will not idle
        DML:  Wiring Short??
        DML: Body Removal
        DML: More DMC stuff for sale!!!!
        DML: DMC Plates
        Re: DML:  Blue-Yellow Wire?????
        DML: Year, VIN & alternator differences (was: VIN numbers)
        DML: Re: Flushing the fuel system
        DML: Re: Lowering the front only
        Re: DML: Door lock fix
        DML: Charles Major
        DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?
        DML: Re: Transmission/Headlamps
        DML: Delorean-specific engine parts..
        Re: DML: Lowering the front only
        DML: Re: Body Removal
        Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?
        Re: DML: Re: Transmission/Headlamps
        Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?
        Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?
        DML: DMC meets PA
        DML: Cincinnati Car Show Update
        Re: DML: Lowering the front only
        DML: Insurance
        Re: DML: DMC Plates
        DML: A-Pillar molding
        Re: DML: VIN numbers
        DML: License Plates
        DML: RE: Insurance
        Re: DML: Insurance
        Re: DML: Insurance
        Re: DML: DMC meets PA
        DML: Re: Insurance

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 13:27:31 -0800
From: Dave Price 
Subject: Re: DML: headlights/transmission

>My automatic transmission is losing its mind.  Without a change in load or
>gas pedal the thing decides to shift from 3rd to 2nd at 70MPH.  Yeah, 
>yeah,
>replace the governor.  I'm currently in the process of trying to convince
>myself that it could be a bad shift solenoid or multiple switch mechanism.
>I say this because I had no problem in 400 miles before when weather was
>good.  Now it's wet and the thing does this.  Putting the tranny in the 2
>position works+ADs- it stays in 1st or 2nd.  It also never shifts from 
>3rd to
>1st unexpectedly and for that I thank it.  The 1 position seemed to work
>before, but now the car sometimes stays in 2nd without downshifting.  
>Maybe
>I'll have the car exorcised.

Sounds just like what happened to me.  I put about 200 miles on #16228 and
it started to exhibit unusual activity:
a) If I put it into 1st, it would start in 1st, but shift into 2nd.
b) If I put it into Drive, it would start in 3rd (or 2nd) (never shift 
into
1st) until it
warmed up, then it would operate normally.
c) From a dead stop, no matter where I put the stick (R/D/2/1) it would 
start
out in neutral and "slip" in and out of gear until I got moving (~15mph).
d) It would shift to the next lower gear, or just shift into neutral while
driving.

After a couple of days of item D, it just stopped driving all together. I
had my
local transmission shop look at it, and the gears had been stripped 
(probably
due to the transmission freaking out) which only cost me $2200 to have 
fixed
(If you can repair transmissions, you could probably save $1200 or so). 
After
it was fixed, they did find that the governor was the culprit, bringing my
total to $2700.

If the transmission itself hasn't already been damaged, it would be wise 
to
replace the computer.  But I'd have a shop take a look in your ATF pan to
see if there is debris. If so, you're probably looking at the same
situation as
me. If you continue to drive it without fixing it, you could be looking at
a new transmission which will cost you $4375 + labor.

Good luck to you, I hope it's not serious!

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 18:00:44 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" 
Subject: DML: Lawrenceburg Kentucky

Recently purchased a Delorean in Lawrenceburg
Kentucky.  While loading it on the trailer,  I was approached
by a couple driving a taurus/sable wagon.  He said he
was on the mailing list and his son was looking for a 
Delorean.  If you are reading this message, e-mail me
back.

bsmoody(AT)kih.net
- -Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:46:17 -0800
From: "tomcio" 
Subject: RE: DML: NEW #2219

Hi,
you ask about any DeLoreans in europe, so, I just bought my "D" a few 
months ago, and soon I will ship it to Poland. It is much closer to 
you than the US. I would like to arrange some sort of DeLorean 
gathering somewhere in europe, maybe... But before my car is drivable 
I need some parts. I'm looking for a complete injetcion system which 
is a modified Bosh k-jetronic. If you have anything that I can use, 
please e-mail me directly at tomcio(AT)goplay.com . Also if you want to 
find some DeLoreans in europe go to http://www.delorean.de . It is 
german page dedicated to our cars. Good luck.
Best regards,
Tom Niemczewski vin # 6298

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 17:37:49 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" 
Subject: Re: DML:  Blue-Yellow Wire?????

> Hey List,
> 
>    I have been having problems with my starter. This is what 
> happened...When I
> got the fuel injectors hooked up on my car, and I turned the key the car
> started right up.  It did this for the first 3 times that night.  Then 
> later..........

The resistor you are looking for is the 2 white tube looking
things located on the firewall near the engine bay lamp switch.
But, I don't think this is causing your starter not to engage.  
All you need to engage the starter is +12 V on the large red
cable from the battery ( there are (2), but one just goes up
to the jump terminal),  Ground ( achieved through the engine
block itself), and +12 on the red/white wire.   If this doesn't cause
the starter to turn, then you have a problem with the starter or
Solenoid. 

- -Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:14:01 -0600
From: Jordan Gary 
Subject: Re: DML: DMC Font & R406-a

I could not get the web site location to work for me.   Also, I tried the
certification site that James noted a few days ago.  I started reading the
training manual on their web site, getting ready to be certified.  The
manual has a long discussion of the R406-a  and other blended products.
They give several reasons why not to use them, and strongly recommend that
they not be used.  I suggest that you read their manual.  Jordan Gary

Aaron Barrus wrote:

> It's been a while since I played with freon, so I may give outdated =
> information.  R406a does have CFCs in it, but much smaller amounts.  =
> According to George Goble, the inventor, the ozone depleting chemicals =
> have been reduced by more than 90% - I don't recall the exact amount.
> You =
> may find more information at
> http://www.autofrost.com/peoples/ghg/ghg-refri=
> gerant.txt.=20
>
> Aaron
>
> >>> "Robert A. Rooney"  03/23 8:32 PM >>>
> >Does anybody know if there is such thing as a DMC font? Or at least one
> >made up from the letters that spell out "DeLorean" on the rear facia of
> >the car? Also, Also, is R406-a like R134-a, or is it harmful to the
> >enviroment as well R12?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 12:24:13 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sean P Mullally" 
Subject: DML: Door lock fix

Hello, I've got an interesting problem with my locks.  My 81 DeLorean 
(#3868)
appears requires separate door and ignition keys.  My problem is that I 
don't
have the door key. (read on, I'll explain) My driver's door lock is broken
such that any key will open it.  When I bought the car I just assumed it 
was a one key system, because the one key I was given worked on both the 
driver's door and the ignition. Soon after I realized the key did not fit 
the passenger
side, and the driver's side, due to being broken, would not unlock 
reliably.
As a result, I don't ever lock the car for fear of not being able to get 
in. This has happened in public a couple of times and is extremely 
embarrassing until the lock finally decides to cooperate.
What I want to know is, What is the procedure for removing these 
locks, and
can they be rekeyed or do I have to buy new locks? Has anyone dealt with 
this before?

- -Sean Mullally

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:29:43 EST
From: NJP548 
Subject: Re: DML: Car will not idle

<<  I don't have any experience with fuel
 injectors, could this be dirty fuel injectors. Can they be cleaned or
 must they be replaced? >>
  

I had a different problem,  My car only idled and whenever you hit on the
gas pedal it would stall.  I finally figured out that all 6 injectors were
rusted up and only let a little gas in to let the car idle.  After I 
changed the injectors the car ran fine until the starter problem...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 00:06:47 EST
From: NJP548 
Subject: DML:  Wiring Short??

Hey List:

 There seems to be a little short in my wiring.  Whenever I pull the 
lever to
the high beam flasher, my fuel pump goes on for a few seconds and my 
R.P.M.
gauge goes up and down a few times.  Has anyone ever had this problem and
found out a way to fix it??  Oh Yeah I finally got my starter to work, my
batter was faulty and it never charged fully so when I put a new battery 
init
it fired right up.

Thanks,
Nick
VIN#1852

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 06:27:09 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" 
Subject: DML: Body Removal

I started the process of removing the body from frame this weekend.
Last night,  I encountered a problem.   One of the main bolts, located
in the engine bay, driver side,  which attaches the cross brace and body
to the frame will not come out.  It turns easy, but it seems as if there
is a nut on the other end that is also turning.  BUT, as far as I can
see, there is no access to the underside.  This is the 3rd body I have
removed but have never had a problem so I never really noticed how it
was threaded.  Any suggestions welcome

- -Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 15:29:06 EST
From: ABatt10347 
Subject: DML: More DMC stuff for sale!!!!

Fellow DMCer's;
While getting ready to move my friend Frank (Vin#5102) has found the 
following
DMC items he wants to sell. One copy of Stainless Steel Ill. (still has 
dust
cover, not in mint, but great shape)-- $150.00  He also has a set of the 
black
DMC sidestripes decals,(part # A2000010), these are still in the orginal 
box
and have never been used. Price for the sidestripes is $500.00. Frank can 
be
reached at Frankj(AT)ccast.com or 615-451-9138. He is working nights for the 
next
week so the best time to reach him is during the AM. And yes his 81 DMC is
still for sale at $9000.00.  
Bruce Battles
Vin#6569

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 01:40:05 -0500
From: Yugoman(AT)webtv.net (Ralph Isenberg)
Subject: DML: DMC Plates

  Recieved the DMC plates that Mr. Espey is selling, they are beautiful!
Every D  should have one.

Ralph Isenberg (Yugoman(AT)webtv.net)
1977 Pacer
1975 Vega (for sale-trophy winner!)
1990 Yugo Convertible (rare- also for sale)
2 Corvairs ready to restore, Comet, VW, 1988 Yugo GVX, too many
carburetors to feed, somebody adopt one!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:09:05 -0600
From: Jordan Gary 
Subject: Re: DML:  Blue-Yellow Wire?????

The way that your starter works is:  The large red wires provide 12 volts 
to the starter motor and have the 12 volts all the time directly from the
battery.  The red-white wire gets 12 volts to the solonoid only when the
ignition key sents it.  The solonoid then engages the motor and the motor
turns.  The second small wire also gets current from the solonoid and 
sends the current to the ignition and tells it that the starter is 
engaged.  
Your problem is that your solonoid is failing.  When you are cranking 
with a 
low battery the contacts in the solonoid can go bad.  Mine did last fall. 
 A
alternator shop repaired the solonoid contacts.  You can also just 
replace the solonoid with a new one.  The altenator shop charged me about 
$65 labor.  
They did not have a source for my French made starter solonoid but the 
Delorean
parts people have them.             Jordan Gary

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:42:12 -0500
From: Mike Substelny 
Subject: DML: Year, VIN & alternator differences (was: VIN numbers)

Jason Day asked:

> I was wondering if anyone can give me the low down on the
> model numbers, and which ones would have less problems to
> start with by year?

You really cannot tell very much about a DeLorean by its year or VIN
anymore.  Unless the car has been sitting in a garage since it was new,
the previous owner(s) probably made changes and updates by now.

A well-maintained 81 DeLorean will be just as reliable as a
well-maintained 83 DeLorean.  Either one will be much better than any
neglected DeLorean!  Any DeLorean can accomodate the relay updates,
etc. needed to make it the equal of any other DeLorean.


> Did DMC ever put fix the under-powered alternator toward the end
> of the car's production, or does that need to be replaced in all
> the cars?

The underpowered "Ducey" alternator was only used in the early
DeLoreans.  Any DeLorean can be upgraded to the bigger alternator. 
However, my car still uses the smaller alternator and I don't have any
problem with it.  I simply keep in mind that while I have everything going
my battery will begin to drain, so I don't try to run everything for more
than a few minutes at a time.

This is not much of a problem for me; here in Cleveland I seldom need the
air conditioner and headlights at the same time.

- - Mike Substelny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:57:17 -0500
From: Mike Substelny 
Subject: DML: Re: Flushing the fuel system

Greg Guillot asked:

> Does anyone know if using compressed air to flush the fuel
> system would cause a problem?

I would be very careful about doing this!  Compressed air automatically
causes condensation, which can spray water into your fuel system.  At
the very least you should put a water-extractor in your air line before
doing this, then after your air blow run fresh gasoline with a dry-gas
solution to remove any water.  Also check your Shop Manual for the
operating pressure of the fuel system and make sure you do not exceed
that limit with your air compressor.

Why use air at all?  Why not just pump a pressurized liquid through, like
plain old detergent gasoline?  You could catch it in a bucket on the
downstream side and see if there had been any junk in the line or the 
accumulator.

- - Mike Substelny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 06:31:10 -1000
From: "Thomas Smithson" 
Subject: DML: Re: Lowering the front only

Greg, a friend and fellow DeLorean owner here in Hawaii has an early '81
that has had the front only lowered. He drives it daily and, besides
looking great, he says it doesn't affect the handling. He didn't cut the
coils, he replaced them. The slightly raked effect is very attractive and 
I
plan to do the same to my car.

Thom Smithson
VIN #3089

- ----------
> From: Greg Guillot 
> To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
> Subject: DML: Lowering the front only
> Date: Wednesday, March 25, 1998 4:55 AM
> 
> Has anyone tried to shorten the front springs to reduce the height of 
> the front of the car only? The height of the rear looks fine to me, 
> but 2 inches off of the front would eliminate that unnatural looking 
> gap between the tire and the wheel wells. Plus, it would give it more 
> of the rakish look. Is there something I am missing here? I am going 
> to perform an overhaul on the braking system this weekend, and 
> figured that I might as well address the ride height problem while I 
> have all four wheels off.
> 
> Greg Guillot
> VIN #2926
> ************************************************
> Morial Convention Center - New Orleans
> Greg Guillot, Director of Info Systems & Services
> 900 Convention Center Blvd,New Orleans, LA 70130
> Phone (504) 582-3116,Fax (504) 582-3104
> Email gguillot(AT)mccno.com
> ************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 11:38:42 -0600
From: Jordan Gary 
Subject: Re: DML: Door lock fix

Try calling the part suppliers.  They can sell you a new lock which any 
lock
and key shop can change to be the same for each door.  There also is a
bullitan # st-31-12/81 which tells how to convert a two key system to a 
one
key system.  It takes a little filling on the hole in the door to take the
larger one key lock.  The bulletin tells of a tool, J33310, to help with 
this
filling by being a templet (jig).  Maybe the parts supplier can loan you 
the
tool.    You also would want them to give you instructions for removing 
the
inside door trim.  There has also been instructions for this in this 
mailing ,
a couple of months ago.   Jordan Gary  vin 0794

Sean P Mullally wrote:

> Hello, I've got an interesting problem with my locks.  My 81 DeLorean
> (#3868)
> appears requires separate door and ignition keys.  My problem is that I
> don't
> have the door key. (read on, I'll explain) My driver's door lock is broken
> such that any key will open it.  When I bought the car I just assumed it
> was a one key system, because the one key I was given worked on both the
> driver's door and the ignition. Soon after I realized the key did not fit
> the passenger
> side, and the driver's side, due to being broken, would not unlock
> reliably.
> As a result, I don't ever lock the car for fear of not being able to get
> in. This has happened in public a couple of times and is extremely
> embarrassing until the lock finally decides to cooperate.
> What I want to know is, What is the procedure for removing these
> locks, and
> can they be rekeyed or do I have to buy new locks? Has anyone dealt with
> this before?
>
> -Sean Mullally

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:41:39 -0600
From: "Paul Hamer" 
Subject: DML: Charles Major

Sorry to use the list for this, but Charles Major needs to contact me =
with a correct phone number in regards to DMC Manuals.

Paul Hamer

phamer(AT)genesisnet.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:47:56 -0600X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service  
From: "Hershey, Mark" 
Subject: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?

(5.5.1960.3)
Sender: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com

I've been slowly restoring little details of my DeLorean interior for
several years and finally got around to replacing the vinyl-coated metal
plate around the transmission lever (the one holding the clock and dash
light rheostat ). The only reason I replaced it is because there are two
crudely-drilled holes in it between the transmission P-N-D-1-2 plastic
insert and the edge of the plate near the window switches. I presumed the
previous owner drilled them himself and added two ugly screws to hold the
plate down. The original hidden welded copper studs intended to hold this
end of the plate down were obviously broken off (the weld marks were 
visible
underneath). 

I received the replacement part yesterday and, whaddayaknow, it has the 
same
two badly drilled holes in exactly the same place. And this one never had
the rear mounting studs at all, although the two in the front were 
intact. 

Are any other (or all?)  Deloreans made this way? Mine is VIN 2790, an
August '81 model. 
Thanks--

Mark Hershey
mhershey(AT)intecom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:19:36 -0800
From: dh(AT)hpserv7.mxim.com (Dave Hutchinson)
Subject: DML: Re: Transmission/Headlamps

I agree with Mike that just replacing the transmision computer can be an
expensive debugging step if it is not in fact the problem.  Fortunately,
it is very easy to determine if the computer is at fault or something
else.  When my car started shifting into 2nd at 70mph, I did the
following.  I hooked up two LEDs (with resistors) to a long wire running
into the computer harness mounted on the firewall of the engine bay.
The two LEDs indicated what the computer was instructing the
transmission solenoids to do (two bits give four states, I believe three
of which are valid: 1st, 2nd, and 3rd).   I could drive around and look
at those two lights.  When the transmission starts misbehaving, simply
observe the LEDs and see if they changed.  If they do, stop blaming the
transmission and replace that poorly designed computer/govenor
assembly.  In my case the lights matched the gear change so the computer
was indeed faulty.  In fact, before I replaced the computer (It cost
like $400) I swapped the LEDs with a three position rotation switch.  I
drove around for a while with the switch in hand and did my own
shifting.  That grew boring after a while and I replaced the computer.

Has anybody found a similar debugging tool to diagnose the hot start
problem?  I wasted mucho dinero replacing the fuel pump and accumulator
only to still have that dreaded hot start problem!  I hate that. David

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:46:58 -0800
From: Dave Price 
Subject: DML: Delorean-specific engine parts..

Does anyone have a list of engine parts that are specific to the Delorean?
(i.e. parts that had to be fabricated/changed from the stock PRV engine to
make it fit/work in the Delorean)

Thanks!
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:50:12 EST
From: Kayo Ong 
Subject: Re: DML: Lowering the front only

Dear Greg Guillot,

To share some of  my experiences with you on the subject of lowering the 
front
only.

I had my Deloreon lowered 2 inches last January 1997 for a period of 2 1/2
weeks.
I had put on 2,000 miles during that time.  There was city and highway 
driving
involved, with snow, rain and dry roads.  I drove from New York City to
Durham, North Carolina and back.  Plus driving around both of the two 
cities.
After this journey, I then had the height changed and lowered to about 1 
3/8".
This is now the height.

There are serveral good and bad about lowering especially to 2" on the 
front
only.  Lowering 2" allows the front to dip lower.  At this height, three
noticeable things happeneds to the vehicle with you and your passengers.

First, you bottom out quicker, and  hitting the brackets of the torsion 
bars.
Going up a higher then normal driveway ramps is now a problem.  Driving 
around
the City of New York with pot holes and uneven roads and streets is a
challenge.  I drive my car every day for work and pleasure.  Snow and 
debris
on the road and street is a problem , because of  4 inches of clearance.
Becareful of your radiator.  A good smack or hit will crack the radiator.
Another new concern when driving. 

Second, when you are driving you are physically leaning and sloping 
forward,
you and the car.  Feels a little strange when sitting and driving.  You 
get
the feeling of more road exposure because of this new angle.   Getting in 
and
out of the car is now a greater challenge.  It is like doing exercises of 
deep
knees bends, all the way down and all the way up on both the passenger and
driver seats.  It is that little 2 inches, it is that far down.  I 
myself, I
teach exercise class everyday, and getting in and out is "job" in itself.
(Must be getting old).

Third, and very important is that you should really lower the rear also.  
How
much?  That is another experience thru experiment.   Need to research and 
do
experiment on the "working" height.  Like I said I had it lowered the 
front to
2 inches then changed and settled to about 1 3/8 inch for several reasons.
Driving experience on 2 inches is different, very different.  The vehicle
seems like is "going" and "hugging" the road better with more "weight 
forward"
and more rear sway???  Driving on 1 3/8 inch is slightly easier, for 
driver
and the vehicle.  Remember,  the weight and balance of the Deloreans are
different from all the other vehicles.  The weight ratio is 35/65, plus 
with
the engine "overhanging" beyond the rear wheels.....YOU DO FEEL THE REAR 
END
MORE!!!  I have never had any super short stops or radical turns, but on
simple driving, stopping and turns, one can "feel" the difference.  So, 
the 1
3/8 inch is a compromise and a difference between the "factory" and the 2
inches height.

I didnot get the rear lowered.   I think the correct way to lower a 
Delorean,
is all fronts and rears together.  Then, you must be careful not to 
"bottom
out", with only 4 inches clearance when you lower 2" inches all around.  I
didnot lowered the rear, because there are not any "correct" rear springs
available.  Looking for the "correct" springs or/and a correct mountings 
for
the suspension and lower arms.  Check into this new problem.  Lowering to 
2
inches in the rear, presents many new cleareance and alignment problems I 
was
told.  For this reason why 1 3/8 inches on the front is more then enough
without the rear being lowered.   Remember, you are changing the weight 
and
balance.  Braking, turning and handling is different.  You may like it, 
you
may not.

Hope I this gives you some insight.

If anyone out there have any deeper experiences and other ideas on 
lowering, I
also would like to hear it.

Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic  9D

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:25:28 -0600
From: "Micah Fryman" 
Subject: DML: Re: Body Removal

- ----------
> From: Brandon S. Moody 
> To: DMC List 
> Subject: DML: Body Removal
> Date: Thursday, March 26, 1998 8:27 AM
> 
> I started the process of removing the body from frame this weekend.
> Last night,  I encountered a problem.   One of the main bolts, located
> in the engine bay, driver side,  which attaches the cross brace and body
> to the frame will not come out.  It turns easy, but it seems as if there
> is a nut on the other end that is also turning.  BUT, as far as I can
> see, there is no access to the underside.  This is the 3rd body I have
> removed but have never had a problem so I never really noticed how it
> was threaded.  Any suggestions welcome
> 
> -Brandon

Brandon,

I did a frame off on my 83 Delorean and ran into the same problem with the
engine bay brace body bolts.  There is a square nut that fits loose in the
frame that rounds off as you try to loosen the body bolt. I couldn't find
anywhere to hold the nut in place to prevent the turning.  So the only
thing that could be done was to power chisel the body bolt off.   The body
bolts are made of a very hard material and took a long time to break
through.  I thought about using a cutting torch, but I was afraid of doing
damage to the underbody of cross brace.    As for as I know, the nut isn't
in the parts book.  So you will have to call Grady to get one.   The body
bolts are still available and believe there is a part number for it. Any
questions. 217-627-3265 or nocoke2(AT)ctllc.com

Micah Fryman
Vin 16694 1983
Vin 00697 1981
Vin 06872 1981

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 17:21:06 -0600
From: Duke 
Subject: Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?

Mark,

Mine is the same and I believe all DeLorean's are this way but it sounds 
like
your missing the small bracket with 2 screw holes located just underneath 
the
panel you removed.  There are two bolts that hold this bracket in place 
and
it could have easily been lost by the previous owner or a shop if they 
had to
remove the panel or center console.  The two holes in the panel are for 2
screws that would be inserted into the screw holes of the bracket to 
tighten
it down.

Hershey, Mark wrote:

> (5.5.1960.3)
> Sender: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
>
> Are any other (or all?)  Deloreans made this way? Mine is VIN 2790, an
> August '81 model.
> Thanks--
>
> Mark Hershey
> mhershey(AT)intecom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:49:58 -0800
From: Dave Price 
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Transmission/Headlamps

>following.  I hooked up two LEDs (with resistors) to a long wire running
>into the computer harness mounted on the firewall of the engine bay.
>The two LEDs indicated what the computer was instructing the
>transmission solenoids to do (two bits give four states, I believe three
>of which are valid: 1st, 2nd, and 3rd).

Could you give a little more detail on your debugging tool to the
"electronics challenged" folks out here.. ?   (i.e. where to
stick the long wires, what kinda resistors/leds to use, etc..)

>I swapped the LEDs with a three position rotation switch.  I
>drove around for a while with the switch in hand and did my own
>shifting.  That grew boring after a while and I replaced the computer.
>
This got the ole' noodle a-spinnin'...  Any thoughts on dumping the
computer for a "3 speed clutchless manual" transmission?
Is there any way to read the position of the stick, and send that
signal to the tranny without any kick-up or kick-downs?
I'm game for that idea!

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:27:01 EST
From: DMC3309 
Subject: Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?

In regards to  the question about the console having two small holes in 
it,
mine is VIN 3309 made in August of 81 and it too has these holes and 
screws in
it.  All the Deloreans I have seen were the same way even though my parts 
book
doesn't show the holes being there.  Also is there anyone know where I 
can get
a  used grey console (Part No. 110446) reasonably priced?  I have to 
decide
if I should have mine repaired or purchase a black one dyed grey.

Thanks,
Robert Gorski
VIN 3309 
E-Mail  DMC3309(AT)AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 16:14:48 -0800
From: Dave Price 
Subject: Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?

>Mine is the same and I believe all DeLorean's are this way but it sounds 
>like

>> Are any other (or all?)  Deloreans made this way? Mine is VIN 2790, an
>> August '81 model.
>> Thanks--

Yep.. Those two screws are in my late-model automatic also (#16288).
Without them there wouldn't be any way to fasten the plate or the
center console armrest down.  I was thinking about replacing the
phillips head screw with a flat hex head screw.. It might look better...
(If it doesn't look like a screw, maybe it'll look like a 
decoration...)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1991 22:10:04 -0500
From: Andrew Strano 
Subject: DML: DMC meets PA

Hello fellow DMC freinds,
  I am from the Pittsburgh PA region and was wondering if anyone here knew
of someone who owned a Delorean in my area.  I've only seen one once 
around
here and I wasn't sure if the owner live locally.  I was just interested 
in
getting a closer look at the Delorean in person.  I've seen many pictures
but the real thing is a much different experience.  I'm currently only 18
but I plan to buy one in my future.  I too, enjoy the car!
- -Andy G. Strano

"The Time has come the walrus said
  to talk of many things
of shoes and ships and sealing wax
  of cabbages and kings" --Through The Looking Glass
 "So, who's Ready to have some FUN!" -Kramer
"I don't care to belong to any club that will accept me as a member" 
  		--Groucho Marx
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it."  -- Yogi Berra
"Do or do not, there is no try"  -- Yoda
The 12 - 6 Rule: It's better to be judged by 12 than to be carried by 6.
visit my homepage: www.personal.psu.edu/ags128

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:58:38 EST
From: KKoncelik 
Subject: DML: Cincinnati Car Show Update

Hi
Registrations just keep coming, the last few from Illinois, Las Vegas
(Nevada), and California.  Altogether so far there are 14 States 
represented. 

Cincinnati Car Show

COLUMBUS OPEN HOUSE

I talked to Steve the other day and decided its time to set a time for the
Sunday Event.  There has been a lot of speculation so here are the 
official
times.

The Group will Leave Cincinnati at 10:00 AM, Sunday, June 14th from the
Comfort Suite hotel parking lot.
The trip will take 1 1/2 hours since a convoy will probably be a bit 
slower.
Steve will open the Warehouse at 11:00 AM and will keep it open till 
between
5:00 and 6:00PM.  He will make sure everyone is taken care of  by the 
time we
need to leave and he is bringing his crew  up to Columbus to take care of 
us.

Thanks again for the great support.

Ken
For the latest information on the DeLorean Car Show
this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98(AT)dmcnews.com"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 17:30:36 -1000
From: "Thomas Smithson" 
Subject: Re: DML: Lowering the front only

Kayo, DMC in Houston has coil springs from the original manufacturer used
by the factory as original equipment parts. They have front and rear coils
which will lower your car. A full set of four will run you about $500.00.

Thom Smithson
VIN #3089

- ----------
> From: Kayo Ong 
> To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
> Subject: Re: DML: Lowering the front only
> Date: Thursday, March 26, 1998 10:50 AM
> 
(SNIP)
I
> didnot lowered the rear, because there are not any "correct" rear springs
> available.  Looking for the "correct" springs or/and a correct mountings 
> for
> the suspension and lower arms.  Check into this new problem.  Lowering to
> 2
> inches in the rear, presents many new cleareance and alignment problems I
> was
> told.  For this reason why 1 3/8 inches on the front is more then enough

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 22:52:26 +0000
From: Michael Hanley 
Subject: DML: Insurance

I just got my car a few weeks ago and am having trouble finding and
insurance company with decent rates as I only plan to drive my car a few
miles a week and spend the rest of the time restoring it.  It's not my
primary vehicle and most insurance companies don't have the car in their
records.  Could anyone recommend some companies that you might have had
luck with, any classic car speciality insurance companies, etc.?  I sure
would appreciate it.  Thanks.


- -Mike
#0981

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 23:05:38 EST
From: NJP548 
Subject: Re: DML: DMC Plates

I too bought the DMC plates that Mr. Espey was selling and I can't wait 
to put
my frond license plate bracket on so I can show it off.

Later,
Nick
VIN#1852

------------------------------

Date: 27 Mar 98 07:08:56 -0500
From: MCCOMBC(AT)detroitedison.com
Subject: DML: A-Pillar molding

Has anyone ever removed the A-pillar trim molding from the inside of a 
Delorean? This is the inside uphostered piece covering the left and right 
windshield post that runs from the dashboard to the top of the windshield 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:07:44 -0500
From: Marc A Levy 
Subject: Re: DML: VIN numbers

After so many years, most of the cars that had theese problems have been
fixed, and I would not base a decision of what car to by on the VIN.

JDay wrote:
> would have less problems to start with by year?  Did DMC ever put fix the

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 98 08:09:30 -0700
From: James Espey 
Subject: DML: License Plates

Many people have asked about the plates I am selling, so here are some 
details. They are metal, with a brushed silver front and stamped black 
DMC logo. The cost is $15 each, which includes Priority Mail shipping to 
US addresses. Send a check (payable to DMC-News) to:

DMC-News
P.O. Box 4833
Mesa, AZ 85211-4833

All proceeds from license plate, book and poster sales go to running the 
DeLorean Mailing List and DMC-News web page. Thanks for supporting 
DMC-News and the DeLorean Mailing List.

James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
For the latest information on the DeLorean Car Show
this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98(AT)dmcnews.com"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:36:03 -0500
From: "Yocom, Shannon" 
Subject: DML: RE: Insurance

I don't have a DMC (yet) but I checked w/ my State Farm agent and it is
in his books.  I am in NW Ohio and I have heard that in other areas of
the country that State Farm will not access a value to the D or will not
cover it on normal insurance, and others like my area that will.  It
just might be an "area" thing or "indipendently owned & operated" kinda
thing. 
  

> ----------
> From: 	Michael Hanley
> Reply To: 	dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, March 26, 1998 10:52 PM
> To: 	dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
> Subject: 	DML: Insurance
> 
> I just got my car a few weeks ago and am having trouble finding and
> insurance company with decent rates as I only plan to drive my car a
> few
> miles a week and spend the rest of the time restoring it.  It's not my
> primary vehicle and most insurance companies don't have the car in
> their
> records.  Could anyone recommend some companies that you might have
> had
> luck with, any classic car speciality insurance companies, etc.?  I
> sure
> would appreciate it.  Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Mike
> #0981

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:57:21 EST
From: Ross33650 
Subject: Re: DML: Insurance

Mike-
I have mine with Hagerty Classic ins.
The price is quite reasonable. Full year
coverage with no deductible.
They are at:
Hagerty Classic
P.O. Box 87
Traverse City, Mi. 49685
(616) 947- 6868

Good luck
Jason
ross33650(AT)aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:41:39 -0600
From: Jordan Gary 
Subject: Re: DML: Insurance

I suggest that you review the last few months of this mail.  Several
suggestions have been made.  I currently have State Farm and am very happy
with them.  My rate is quite modest here in Texas. I got my car
recently.      Jordan Gary vin 0794

Michael Hanley wrote:

> I just got my car a few weeks ago and am having trouble finding and
> insurance company with decent rates as I only plan to drive my car a few
> miles a week and spend the rest of the time restoring it.  It's not my
> primary vehicle and most insurance companies don't have the car in their
> records.  Could anyone recommend some companies that you might have had
> luck with, any classic car speciality insurance companies, etc.?  I sure
> would appreciate it.  Thanks.
>
> -Mike
> #0981

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 11:57:59 -0500
From: Kevin 
Subject: Re: DML: DMC meets PA

	Im moving to Pittsburgh next month and Im also interested in 
seeing/buying
a Delorean for a primary driving car.....

At 10:10 PM 3/26/91 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello fellow DMC freinds,
>  I am from the Pittsburgh PA region and was wondering if anyone here knew
>of someone who owned a Delorean in my area.  I've only seen one once 
>around
>here and I wasn't sure if the owner live locally.  I was just interested 
>in
>getting a closer look at the Delorean in person.  I've seen many pictures
>but the real thing is a much different experience.  I'm currently only 18
>but I plan to buy one in my future.  I too, enjoy the car!
>-Andy G. Strano
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:41:46 -1000
From: "Thomas Smithson" 
Subject: DML: Re: Insurance

Mike, I have my insurance through ITT Hartford insurance and had no 
problem
insuring it. Because I'm in Hawaii it is expensive but it's the same as my
'92 Isuzu pick-up, (but then so is my Mercedes?).

Thom Smithson
VIN #3089

- ----------> 
> I just got my car a few weeks ago and am having trouble finding and
> insurance company with decent rates as I only plan to drive my car a few
> miles a week and spend the rest of the time restoring it.  It's not my
> primary vehicle and most insurance companies don't have the car in their
> records.  Could anyone recommend some companies that you might have had
> luck with, any classic car speciality insurance companies, etc.?  I sure
> would appreciate it.  Thanks.
>  
> -Mike
> #0981

------------------------------

End of dmcnews-digest V3 #344
*****************************


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