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Wednesday, 8 May 1996 Volume 02 : Number 110
In this issue:
Cleansers / Polishes
Re: Wire Diagram.
Shocks
Re: Cleansers / Polishes
Re: Wire Diagram.
Auto Bleed System
A Word about octane ratings
Delorean Seats
Auto. transmisson. leak
Goodyear's Corporate Response
[none]
Frame Rust
Re: Frame Rust
Thermostats
AC Freon Charge *REPOST*
Re: Frame Rust
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Eric J. Hennebury"
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:30:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cleansers / Polishes
I remember quite some time ago there was mention on the list of
Delorean owners preferred substances for the cleaning of stainless. I
looked back to try and locate it, but without success, so if it wouldn't
be too much trouble, I wouldn't mind hearing about some of them again.
Until then, I guess I'm stuck in a world of fingerprints and watermarks.
Thanks in advance,
Eric
------------------------------
From: myjak@tridis.ist.ucf.edu (Michael Myjak)
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 20:22:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Wire Diagram.
> Does anyone have a complete, readable wire diagram for
> the DeLorean?
I have come copies I've made by getting the original blown up. At
least its readable...
- - Michael D. Myjak
Senior Research Scientist
Institute for Simulation and Training
email:
Off the keyboard, over the bridge, through the router..... Nothin' but
Net!
------------------------------
From: Bdofprey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 20:51:31 -0400
Subject: Shocks
Are there any "tricks" I need to know before replacing my front shocks?
------------------------------
From: Don_Gowler-CFPO01@email.mot.com
Date: 5/6/96 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: Cleansers / Polishes
Message authorized by:
I HAVE USED TURTLE WAX CLEAR GUARD FOR YEARS AND HAVE FOUND IT THE BEST
OVERALL
CLEANER/POLISHER FOR EVERY THING ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR EXCEPT OF
COURSE THE
WINDOWS. ORDINAR WAX HAS TO BE APPLIED SO CAREFULLY SO THAT IT DOES NOT
GET ON
THE VINYL OR RUBBER BUT NOT CLEAR GUARD.
REGARDS,
THE SILVER FOX
> I remember quite some time ago there was mention on the list of
>Delorean owners preferred substances for the cleaning of stainless. I
>looked back to try and locate it, but without success, so if it wouldn't
>be too much trouble, I wouldn't mind hearing about some of them again.
>Until then, I guess I'm stuck in a world of fingerprints and watermarks.
> Thanks in advance,
>Eric
------------------------------
From: myjak@tridis.ist.ucf.edu (Michael Myjak)
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 16:05:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Wire Diagram.
> Does anyone have a complete, readable wire diagram for
> the DeLorean?
I have come copies I've made by getting the original blown up. At
least its readable...
- - Michael D. Myjak
Senior Research Scientist
Institute for Simulation and Training
email:
Off the keyboard, over the bridge, through the router..... Nothin' but
Net!
------------------------------
From: Delornut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 21:51:41 -0400
Subject: Auto Bleed System
There was a car at the Las Vegas Expo with this cooling system
configuration.
I installed it on my car but Minnesota has yet to get temperatures that
would
give it a test. It involves replacing the bleeder screw in the thermostat
housing with a 1/8" pipe threaded hose barb. A hose is run from the barb
to a
' T ' fitting installed in the small hose returning fluid to top of the
fill
bottle. I haven't thought of any reason why it wouldn't work but I have to
tell you it hasn't received a proper test in my car yet. I don't know
whose
car it was that had this installed at the Las Vegas Expo but it was such a
simple idea we should have all thought of it .
Bruce
------------------------------
From: Delornut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 21:51:33 -0400
Subject: A Word about octane ratings
Higher octane fuels are blended to burn slower
so the combustion process can be better controlled. Engines that need a
slower burn are those with higher compression ratios, turbo or super
charged,
and need better control in the combustion chamber. If you engine doesn't
ping
under load you don't have a problem. The pinging comes from pre-ignition
when
the fuel mix burns so rapidly that it catches the piston still trying to
go
up while the combustion tries to drive it down. On lower compression cars
it's possible to create carbon deposits in the combustion chamber by
having
too slow a burn. These deposits displace some of the area in the
combustion
chamber and there by raise the compression ratio. It's possible to
"train" a
car that doesn't need high octane fuel to become dependent on it as the
slower, cooler burn allows the carbon to build up. I'd use the recommended
fuel rating unless your running a turbo.
delornut
------------------------------
From: WINGD2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 01:16:51 -0400
Subject: Delorean Seats
Cindy,
In reference to replacing your Delorean seats with Recaro's. I looked
into this same thing last summer and was told by a Recaro factory rep that
they had tryed to fit seats into a Delorean in the past and found problems
with the narrow width of the seat base, especially on the drivers side.
They
don't make a bracket adaptor kit for this application because of this. He
told me that if I wanted to try and make them work, there would be no
warranty. Has anyone out there made Recaro's work?
I also found a seat made by Corbeau in Utah that looked like it would
work (and at about half the cost). I can't tell you if it worked though,
because after waiting 8 weeks for the seats (which were to ship in 2), I
cancelled the ordered.
Chase is right about the "covers". The original seats are easy for any
good upholstery shop to redo. You can buy complete "cover" replacement
sets
from some of the Delorean shops or have your shop sew up a new set.
I ended up doing something a little different. I had my shop sew up a
new
set of covers and replaced the leather inserts with tweed cloth inserts. I
find the seats to be cooler in the summer than leather and warmer in the
winter. By choosing the right material color and pattern, the seats look
almost "factory". Only Delorean experts know the car was never offered
this
way. It's also an easy matter to go back to original leather / stock, if
the
need should arise in the future, because of the "cover" style of these
seats.
I find the stock seats to be very comf'y on extended trips, even
after
back surgery a few years ago. I would recommend trying to save your stock
seats with a "re-cover" job.
One other little comment: the stock seats are held in with 4 bolts
thru
the bottom of the car. Removal is very easy, to the point where anytime
I've
got to work under the dash, I pull a seat which allows room to lay on your
back without killing yourself. It also lets you find all that change you
thought you had in your pockets.
Marty
------------------------------
From: "Frederick Embden"
Date: 07 May 1996 13:01:13 GMT
Subject: Auto. transmisson. leak
I now have an annoying problem. The auto. trans leaks after a couple
weeks at
rest. It does not leak when driven, but after sitting (garaged for 3-4
weeks)
There is noticable fluid loss from under the car.. Any suggestions as to
the
problem?
------------------------------
From: stormrider@socketis.net (Chase Clark)
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 12:25:24 -0600
Subject: Goodyear's Corporate Response
It looks liek my local dealer is a little off about my car. The rear NCT
tires are now ZR rated instead of HR rated, which is actually an
improvement. Anyway, here's the official corporate response to a recent
inquiry I made via the Web.
BTW, in light of this, I may consider replacing my original rear NCT
series
tires quicker than planned. That is if there is anyone wanting them for a
concours car. They still have some thread left, but I would say about
10,000 miles is the longest they'll last.
If anyone is interested, just let me know. Guess it's time to do research
about if Pirelli P7 or better or still made in the right sizes for the
DeLorean.
~ Chase
>
>THIS IS IN RESPONSE TO YOUR INQUIRY.
>
>THE TWO OE TIRES THAT WERE ON YOUR DELOREAN ARE NO LONGER BEING MADE BY
>GOODYEAR.
>
>THE FRONT TIRES WERE 195/60HR14 EAG NCT & REARS WERE 235/60HR15 EAG NCT.
>
>THE ONLY SUBSTITUTE TIRES WE CURRENTLY MAKE THAT WOULD FIT ARE:
> 195/60R14 EAGLE GA 86H (AND) 235/60ZR15 EAGLE NCT
> SUGG RETAIL-$159.00 SUGG RETAIL-$258.00
>
>THESE TWO TIRES ARE IN OUR CURRENT SALES BOOKLET. PLEASE NOTE THE
>235/60ZR15 EAGLE NCT IS "ZR" SPEED RATED VERSUS OE "HR" SPEED RATED.
>
>THE TWO TIRES HAVE DIFFERENT TREAD PATTERNS AND COULD CAUSE HANDLING
>PROBLEMS. WE DO NOT HAVE ANYTHING ELSE IN OUR CURRENT LINE-UP OF TIRES
>THAT WOULD ENABLE YOU TO HAVE FOUR TIRES WITH SAME TREAD PATTERN AND
>THE REQUIRED "HR" SPEED RATINGS.
>
>THANK YOU FOR YOUR INQUIRY.
>
>Walt Kozlowski
>Goodyear Customer Assistance Center
>usgtrc4w@ibmmail.com
>
------------------------------
From: HOTALASKAN@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 19:26:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [none]
dmcnews-digest@europe.std.com; Tue, 7 May 1996 14:05:37 -0400
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 14:05:37 -0400
Message-ID: <960507140537_530106084@emout17.mail.aol.com>
To: dmcnews-digest@europe.std.com
Subject: idling problems
Sender: dmcnews-approval@world.std.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: dmcnews@world.std.com
Hello everyone,
I finally got my Delorean to start and run after many months of cleaning
the
fuel system out from bad fuel. I have two questions.
First I am looking for a DeLorean tech in the Phx Az area. If anyone
knows of
someone, please let me know. Next question, After starting the DeLorean
the
engine actes like it is missing, or a ruff idle. When I rev the engine up
the
engine smooths right out, when the rpm's come back down to the idle
postion,
the car dies.If I bring the idle back down very slowly I can get it to
idle
around 750 rpm.I ve also notice that the engine is using a lot of gas, I
ve
adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw to try to lean the engine out. Any
idea's
?.At this point I am totally lost.
------------------------------
From: Mr Fusion
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 19:00:47 -0400
Subject: Frame Rust
Bad news. Just today I realized that my frame has some serious rust
developing on it. Any ideas as to what I should do?
------------------------------
From: "Marvin S. Sterling"
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 00:38:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Frame Rust
At 07:00 PM 5/7/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Bad news. Just today I realized that my frame has some serious rust
>developing on it. Any ideas as to what I should do?
>
__________________________divider
Hope that yours isn't as bad as mine was, had to have the right front
section of frame cut out and replaced, Rob Grady did the job, I darned
near
got airborne and dead doing about 90 with only one side of U bolts holding
to the frame. If there is no real structural damage then you should have
the
entire frame sand-blasted and recoated with epoxy or yellow wax lubricant
so
that you can see what's happening. Of course if you're "loaded" there is
a
stainless steel frame available for about $8,000.
Good luck,
Marv
"frustration is not having anyone to blame but yourself"
------------------------------
From: stormrider@socketis.net (Chase Clark)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 01:43:37 -0600
Subject: Thermostats
I know that the DeLorean uses one of the highest, if not the higest,
temperature thermostat on the market today. I was wondering if anyone out
there uses a lower temperature thermostat during the summer months and
then
switches back to the higher model during the winter?
Rob Grady told me that the 175 degree thermostats cause the car to run too
cold for the heater to function very well. But it seems to me that such a
thermostat would be great for the 100 degree days that will be hitting
Missouri come July and August. I can't see that it would do any damage to
the engine if the coolant system ran five to 10 degrees cooler than
specified.
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: stormrider@socketis.net (Chase Clark)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 10:34:23 -0600
Subject: AC Freon Charge *REPOST*
I thought with the outside temperature rising, this might be a good thing
to repost for anyone who missed it before....
A brief reminder for those planning on having their air conditioners
checked out soon. According to Bulletin ST-29-11/81 the freon charge was
changed to 2.2 pounds from the previous 2.75 pounds and was introduced
with
VIN 4080.
"If knocking noises are observed during starting with the air conditioning
on, the new freon charge specification should be used."
Keep this in mind when prepping your car for summer.
~ Chase
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
Stormrider Media Productions P.O. Box 105301
Chase Clark, Co-Owner Jefferson City, Missouri
65110-5301
Voice/Fax (573)635-0622 Email: stormrider@socketis.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
------------------------------
From: stormrider@socketis.net (Chase Clark)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 10:43:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Frame Rust
I also have a little bit of rust around the sharp edges of my frame, but
have not had it checked out thoroughly quite yet. What I am planning to do
is have someone remove the old epoxy from the bottom and sides, then
chemically treat the rust and recoat the underside with whatever is
recommended nowadays.
Once that is done, I also plan on purchasing an electronic rust prevention
system that I will hook into the frame. The system has two anodes that
send
a weak electric pulse through the car every eight seconds, which
completely
inhibits the formation of rust. There is a whole technical explanation for
why this works, but I won't go into it right now. It will just have to
suffice to say that similar devices are used on Alaskan oil pipelines and
other underground pipes with pretty good results. I've seen the car-sized
system listed in places such as JC Whitney for $200 or less.
I figure it can't hurt (might keeop some of those little nuts, bolts and
screws from rusting) and is definitely cheaper than a new stainless steel
frame, plus the time and labor it would take to place a new frame on a
DeLorean. From what I can tell by looking at everything, it basically
requires taking the entire car apart and then reassembling over the new
frame. Not fun!
~ Chase
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #110
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