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Monday, 13 May 1996 Volume 02 : Number 112
In this issue:
Door locks and clunking sounds
Re: Tech. FAQ
Clunking Sound and Etc...
What to Look For (Odometer)
Delorean info
Too hot & out of gas
Frame Rust from Chase
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Todd Saylor, todd(AT)bi-tech.com
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 12:11:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Door locks and clunking sounds
Many thanks to Chase for his work on the "common faults" list -- I look
forward to seeing the results of his effort. The table of contents looks
great!
Problems for today (probably common faults):
1) I've noticed that when I lock/unlock the driver door, the passenger door
follows along. Yet, when I lock/unlock the passenger door, the driver door
does not. I don't think this is the correct behavior -- any idea which of
the two locking mechanisms I should suspect?
2) I noticed that Chase's list included something about clunking sounds
from the rear. I have such a sound, usually when turning hard or backing
out of a driveway and turning. I've been told it sounds like a problem
with the CV (constant velocity) joint. Is there a more likely cause?
3) When my AC cycles on/off, it sends a "popping" sound through my stereo.
Often, it generates enough electrical noise to shut down my equalizer or
amplifier (no, they're not stock; they're too computerized for their own
good). Has anyone else experienced this? Would you suggest some type of
surge suppressor?
Any advice?
------------------------------
From: Eric J.Hennebury, aj532(AT)freenet.toronto.on.ca
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 17:41:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tech. FAQ
Chase,
Under wiring modifications, maybe the bypass of the fan fail
module and upgrading of the circuit breakers should be mentioned. This
mod was suggested to me by the people at PJ Grady (no doubt because they
sell the kit for a stiff $45!) The circuit breaker for my cooling fans
fried to a crisp, even though the fans themselves work and don't seem to
draw excessive current. I would be happy to e-mail you the specifics of
this mod if you feel it should be included. The list looks great! I can
hardly wait to check it out!
Good luck.
Eric
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 17:41:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Clunking Sound and Etc...
Todd and Everyone Else:
The clunking sound is caused by the rear bearings and is not a cause for
concern from what others have told me. Evidently, the rear bearing cylinder
in the DeLorean is not a tight fit and is able to slide to and fro
slightly, creating a clunking sound during tight turns. My left rear wheel
has this sound all the time, but I hardly ever notice it from the right
rear wheel.
In another strange thing, I have heard a clicking sound from my rear brakes
(once again mostly the left rear wheel) when going down the road. This
sound goes away when the brakes are applied. However, I have heard that the
rear brakes do not have retaining pins and also are bouncing around
creating this noise. It's no wonder the brakes pads are reported to have
such a short life span.
As far as a popping through your electrical system from when the AC cycles,
do you have the Fanzilla module that is suppose to ease the load on the
electrical system? I do not have it yet myself, but likely will buy it as
some point. I suspect it would help your situation, although, putting surge
suppressors on each component still would be an excellent idea.
While on the subject of electrical work, has anyone experimenting with
using a higher-powered alternator than the original Motorola unit? I have
the ORIGINAL Ducellier right now (it's been rebuilt) and expect I'll have
to replace it at some point, and was wondering if a 110 amp unit might be
better than the stock 85-90 amp unit?
~ Chase
------------------------------
From: Chase Clark, stormrider(AT)socketis.net
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 17:51:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: What to Look For (Odometer)
Gonzo and Guy:
One thing to have checked out on any DeLorean for sale is the odometer
reading versus wear and tear on the body, interior and engine. The angle
drive unit that runs the speed/odometer gauges can be disabled in a matter
of minutes. Also, the angle drive has a high failure rate due to lack of
lubrication and it was quite common for it to fail on DeLoreans within
15,000 miles. The original lower speedo cable also was a bit too long and
had a habit of kinking up and causing the speedometer to flutter back and
forth, thereby giving inaccurate readings all the way around.
If other parts of the car look like they have more mileage than the
odometer states, then don't believe it's reading. Mechanics told me that my
engine looked like it had more than the 12,143 miles showing on the gauge
when I purchased it, but since the interior was in good shape and the
original NCT series tires were still on the rear of the car, I elected to
take my chances that it was still a pretty low mileage 15-year old car.
Just some advice for you to think about.
~ Chase
Guy: I will have more information for you within a week. Sorry that it is
taking so long to put together.
------------------------------
From: michael richard pack, mrpack(AT)wam.umd.edu
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 13:00:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Delorean info
There is a short story & photo on the Delorean in the 15 years ago
section of the June 1996 Road & Track magazine page 32.
Does Robert Lamrock have an address I can write to Via Snail-mail, or
E-mail? Does anybody have the book"The DeLorean Tapes" for sale? I'm trying to locate a copy of the TV movie version via E-mail.
For those of you that live on the east coast,(NY, NJ, DE, MD, VA, WVA
etc) our Bowie British car day is on Sunday June 23, 1996. To participate
in the parade around the lake we need 6 or more cars in attendance. The
grounds open at 9:00 am. If you need directions, write for more details.
How bad is it if a Delorean was in an accident, however the front crush
area was replaced as well as all the necessary parts? We've looked at
some "nice cars" but they are really overpriced. In addition to thousands
of dollars required in necessary repairs, and updates. Has anyone
purchased a Delorean Motor Company refurbished car? They seem to be
daily driver ready with the necessary upgrades, etc. Any thoughts?
I don't need a daily Delorean, just something that I'll be proud to show
my dad.
With Kind Regards
Michael Pack
------------------------------
From: RFiechter(AT)aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:31:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Too hot & out of gas
Took my 81 automatic delorean out today (cherry 8,500 miles) The week
before my battery died. Ran a trickle charger for two days and she started up.
Gas guage is off showing 1/4 tank less than it actually has. After running on
the highway for about 30 miles the gauge was near zero (should have still
have had1/4 tank) and no idiot light was on ( if their is one). Car
stalled when I slowed to 30 for traffic in the left lane. I coasted off the
highway and she started up again. Stalled out again and I limped into a gas
station. Filled up and she ran fine except that the gauge had shot up to 180 - 200 degrees. She usually runs at 120. Drove for about another ten minutes
home. engine didn't go ever 200 but didn't go down either. Is this overheating
due to running out of gas or did the stalling occur due to overheating?
Could my charger have fried some circuitry? Any ideas?
Rene Fiechter, Baldwin NY rfiechter(AT)aol.com
------------------------------
From: deneb(AT)denebcorp.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:31:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Frame Rust from Chase
Chase writes:
> SNIP
>I figure it can't hurt (might keeop some of those little nuts, bolts and
>screws from rusting) and is definitely cheaper than a new stainless steel
>frame, plus the time and labor it would take to place a new frame on a
>DeLorean. From what I can tell by looking at everything, it basically
>requires taking the entire car apart and then reassembling over the new
>frame. Not fun!
>
>~ Chase
As someone who has rebuilt a DeLorean, I wanted to comment on Chase's
last paragraph for his post. Installing a new frame in the DeLorean is
actually not a difficult process. Only 10 bolts hold the entire
fiberglass underbody onto the DeLorean frame. So in simple terms you
have to remove the ten bolts, disconnect the heater antifreeze lines,
some A/C lines, some misc. electrical connections, brake lines, and
steering linkage. Once everything is disconnected, you can lift/jack the
fiberglass underbody off the frame leaving you with the frame,
engine/trans, suspension and easy access to all fluid lines on the car.
You never have to remove anything from the top of the car like Stainless
Steel panels, doors, or glass.
If anyone has any specific questions, about this process, please feel
free to E-Mail.
Bryan Pearce
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #112
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