DeLorean Mailing List - 5/4/97
dmcnews-digest Sunday, 4 May 1997 Volume 02 : Number 238
In this issue:
Re: Doors - side moulding
Re: Doors
Re: Brakes
Re: New Owner / De- Lurker
Information on seat covers/shift boots... Manual vs. Auto
Michael Babb
ADMIN NOTE
Re: Adjusting doors
RE: 81, 82 and 83 Chronology UPDATE
radio removal...
RE: Manual vs. Auto
RE: New Owner / De- Lurker
Re: Street Competition
Re: New Owner / De- Lurker -Steering wheel DeLorean Horn, NC owners
RE: Brake Rotors
More car shows
moribundity
Buzzer for headlights?
RE: 81, 82 and 83 Chronology UPDATE
Re: moribundity
Series 20000
Fuel Tank
DML Search Engine
Re: Dependable???
need some interior help
Re: need some interior help
Items for sale
Torque for lug nuts
Two DMCs for Sale
How do I drain and refill the clutch fluid? Where do I find the right epoxy
spray to spray on the frame? Starting Problem
Dave's Project - Brakes
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Marvin S. Sterling" Date: Thu, 01 May
1997 00:49:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Doors - side moulding
DMC12 wrote:
>My right side door lines up very poorly to the front fender, but opens and
closes fine. I am assuming that it was always like that but was wondering if
there is anyway I can adjust it to make it line up. Right now it doesn't look
real good because the black side moulding on the door is a inch or so lower
than the moulding on the front fender. Thanx
>Doug Venner
>'83 #15880 N.J.
- -------------------------------------------------------------- Doug,
My passenger door black moulding is about 1/2 inch below the rear and front
fender mouldings ... I don't think that there is anything that we can do about
this. Unfortunately we did not get real production run D's. As I understand it
KAPAC / Consolidated put together the last batch of cars from parts that were
on hand ( somewhere around 500 cars ); the aesthetic quality of the last D's
seems to have been below that of the middle ones, my steering wheel hub
looks as if it should have been a reject if they were interested in quality fits.
Oh well, thought I'd operate on the "misery loves company" theory. Best
regards,
Marv Sterling vin 16000
------------------------------
From: ausmith@pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 06:11:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Doors
Doug wrote;
>Right now it doesn't look real good because the black side moulding on the
door is a inch or so lower than the moulding on the front fender.
Is the only problem the rubber moulding? Does the metal at the bottom of the
door line up with the fenders? If so a body shop should be able to remove and
replace the strip in a straight line. If memory serves the mouldings are held
on with a 3M double stick tape.
Chris
------------------------------
From: James Nichols Date: Thu, 01 May 1997
00:01:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Brakes
Kevin Wolter wrote:
"From what I remember the brakes worked fine immediately after depressing
the pedal but after a second or two the pedal would start to slowly lower to the
floor and eventually I would loose my braking (definitely not very fun in the
middle of traffic!)."
I agree, probably an internal leak in the master cylinder if no fluid is coming
out under the car.
The master cylinder is a Girling #74660518 also used on 77-79 Saab. I was
advised by the shop that rebuilt my master cylinder to use only Casterol Dot 4
brake fluid since girling uses natural rubber seals.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
From: raddad@cmn.net
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 06:56:34 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: New Owner / De-
Lurker
- -----Dave said ---------------------
I plan
>to post the progress here as sort of a diary, feel free to toss in advice where
you see fit.
It sounds as if you are going to do a bumper to bumper (fascia to fascia??)
tour through your car. May I suggest that you take pictures along the way.
Whether they end up as only a part of your personal illustrated diary, or get
published in the dmcnews 'zine, or elsewhere, sometimes a picture is worth a
thousand words (to coin a phrase). Welcome to the group!
Dick Ryan
------------------------------
From: James Espey, (espey@dmcnews.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 09:29:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Information on seat
covers/shift boots...
Here's the story on the seat covers I mentioned a few weeks ago...
The Delorean seats have a "slip-on" leather and vinyl covering for seat
bottom and back, while the vinyl covered rear panel of the seats is screwed
on. On most cars, the rear panel is in good shape, but 15 years of heat,
moisture, and wear have taken their toll on the bottom and back. I recently
had my seats recovered and the diference in smell and appearance is amazing
- it makes the interior look and smell new.
As I mentioned earlier, the color is dead on, and while the grain pattern on
the vinyl is close, it's not exact. I enter my DeLorean in the DOA concours,
and I expect to have no problem with these. For those that are interested, last
tie I looked, the DOA concours rules are available for download at their web
site.
Though the covers do "slip on", installation is best done by someone with
upholstery experience because it's not like the slip on covers from
Target/Wal-Mart - these are fitted tight and use hog rings. My upholstery
shop charged $100 to install them on my seats.
We also made a new shift boot for my car as well. With a reinforced metal
frame, it improved the appearance of my car and cured the annoying "floppy"
shift boot.
In either black or grey, the cost for a PAIR of seat covers (seat bottom and seat
back, rear screw-on panel is NOT included) is $590 plus shipping. Shift boots
with the reinforced frame will run about $70. Depending on the number of
actual orders for seat covers and shift boots, the price **will** be lower, but I
need to know how many of each color are needed. Delivery time is about
three weeks from the time of order. I intend to place the order before leaving
for EuroFest...
If you are seriously interested in purchasing a set of seat covers for your
DeLorean, email me at espey@dmcnews.com with the information below and
I will contact you with more details and payment information:
********************************
Name:
Address:
City/State/ZIP:
Color (black or grey):
Rear screw-on cover needed (yes or no)?
Shift boot wanted (yes or no)?
*********************************
James Espey
Moderator, DMC-News
www.dmcnews.com
------------------------------
From: "Nathan Edward Green" Date: Thu, 1 May
1997 00:59:54 -0400
Subject: Manual vs. Auto
Hello,
I am Nathan Green at NC State University. I must take a short oppurtunity to
publicly thank Mike Babb for taking time to show his D to an
enthusiast, who cannot yet afford a D because of college!
Now for the real reason I write. If any of you have had the chance to drive
both a 5 speed and an auto; Which do you prefer? Is there a real difference in
performance? How does the auto react in terms of fuel economy or
reliability problems?
As I look forward to owning a Delorean when I graduate,(hopefully in 2 more
years), I just wondered what the difference was between the two.
Thanks.
Nathan Green
negreen@unity.ncsu.edu
(919) 831-9267
- --
Nathan Edward Green
negreen@unity.ncsu.edu
(919) 831-9267
************************************************************************
*** **
"Hey, I know you! You're the kid who shoved Santa back up the chimmney,
kicked the gift horse out of the barn, hangs up on Ed McMahon!"
-Det. John Munch, HOMICIDE:LIFE ON THE STREET
"Life's tough, Otis. It's even tougher when you're stupid."
-EADA Paul Robinette, LAW & ORDER
"We're lucky this isn't LA; Everyone has a video camera...I'd bust him for
reckless endangerment if I could!"
-DA Adam Schiff, LAW & ORDER
************************************************************************
*** ***
------------------------------
From: dwbrown@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 1 May 97 09:40:12 EDT
Subject: Michael Babb
I too must thank Michael Babb for taking the time to allow me to try on his
Delorean. Unfortunately, It is not going to work out. I cannot shut the door as
my head is above the roof when sitting in his car. The leg room is a little tight
too. I had forgotten just how low and sleek these cars are. Again, Thanks
Michael I enjoyed seeing and talking to you about your car. Enjoy.
Dave Brown
------------------------------
From: James Espey
Date: Thu, 1 May 97 08:27:11 -0000
Subject: ADMIN NOTE
Now that it's May, it's time to think about all of our student/faculty
susbcribers that will soon be taking off for the summer or graduating - please
remember to unsubscribe yourself before you leave school!
To unsubscribe, use the form at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/unsubscribe.html
Look forward to seeing you back in the fall!
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny Date: Thu, 01 May 1997
11:04:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjusting doors
Brandon S. Moody asked:
>Can someone give me some advice on how to adjust the doors. The driver
door doesn't come down over the pins accurately. . .
Brandon, you may not need to adjust your doors.
It sounds like you may have the same problem that I have, no door guides.
Do these sound like your symptoms? Sometimes the doors close just fine, but
other times they don't. Perhaps one door lines up right when your car is
facing downhill and the other door only works on level ground. Or maybe
(like mine) both act up when the car faces up hill but otherwise they are fine.
Last year at Kapac Jerry Rine explained to me that the door guides come in a
few versions (different sizes and materials). They bolt into both front and rear
latch openings of each door. When installed, they assure that each time a
door closes its pins will line up, no matter what position the car is in.
Apparently DMC came out with these later on, and early DeLoreans can really
benefit from having a set installed. Your name isn't on the registry list, so I
can't tell if your car is as early as mine.
As I understand it Kapac is now defunct, so I suggest that you call the
DeLorean parts vendor of your choice and inquire about a set of four door
guides. Do not try to fix the problem by replacing the inner latch workings
until you have installed door guides.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:10:33 -0400
Subject: RE: 81, 82 and 83 Chronology UPDATE
>20095 Dec 82 WITHHOLD NAME (New Jersey), grey, 5-speed (10th from last
made)
Hmmm.. If that were the 10th from the last made in Northern Ireland and
the
owner were in New Jersey, I'd be a little suspicious as to his secret identity.... ;)
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: Jameel Ahed
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 15:49:36 -0500
Subject: radio removal...
Dear DML,
I was wondering if you guys could give me some hints on removing the
original radio from the car.
Jameel
- --
- -------------------------------------------------- Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH
Industries Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions HOMEPAGE:
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed@uiuc.edu
- --------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 16:42:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Manual vs. Auto
Nathan,
We discussed this somewhat some time ago. I don't know which issue it was
but it's in there somewhere. I as interested in the DeLorean for some time
before I finally test drove one. That first one was an automatic and after
driving it, I almost decided not to get a DeLorean at all. Luckily, I gave
the 5-speed a try later and changed my mind. The automatic is very slow.
It seemed like it would have a problem keeping up with an Omni. I'll
probably get flamed by some automatic owners but that was my impression.
On the other hand, it may have been starting in second gear since the
automatic transmission control modules are notorious for failing and causing
this problem.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 12:16:08 -0400
Subject: RE: New Owner / De- Lurker
Dave,
I don't know about the regulations in your area but that steering wheel would
be highly illegal.
Anyway, it sounds like we have a few things in common as far as our cars go.
I'll post some diary-type/how-to messages as well. Some of the veterans
might be bored by them but I think it's a great idea for us newbies.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: GullWinged@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 17:11:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Street Competition
>Competition, that is a whole different thread! Why is it that every dirtbag in
a 5.0 mustang, or camaro feels the need to race me?! This morning I had a
Escort "Sport Coupe" try and race me.
I never have that problem myselff. The only people that ever try to be
aggressive and keep up with me are high-schoolers in beat up older-model
cars, like the original Ford Escort or Pinto. Everyone with a nice sports car
tends to keep their distance, most assuredly because they think the DeLorean
has the power and acceleration to go with its exotic image. Little do they
know!
Chase Clark
------------------------------
From: RPET123@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 20:05:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: New Owner / De-
Lurker -Steering wheel
When i was a kid i drove a friends 37 ford that had the steering weeel cut so
that all there was ,was a straight bar with 2 steering knobs 1 at each end,
looked cool. needlessto say when i let go of the wheel to take a 2nd grip there
was not a rim to grab, as i was in a turn when i hit the curb, i not bent the
wheel and blew the tire,i did big damage to my hand as the kick back
sent the bar spining. those old cars did that so good luck with your cut off
wheel.
Ray
------------------------------
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE" Date: Thu, 1 May 1997
22:02:04 -0400
Subject: DeLorean Horn, NC owners
Although a bit weak sounding, I liked the sound of the DeLorean
horns.....Untill I had someone back into me last night while I had the horn on
constantly. (You would think that the impact of the cars would have made
her realize that I was there!!??). After she pulled away (of course she didn't
stop at all) I checked the car and lucky for me everything was alright.
Well I have swithced out on of the horns, so the next person that tries to hit
me......look out!!
enough about that. I am interested in getting together with others in the NC
area. Anyone out there that would like to get together for an inpromptu (sp?)
club get together sometime? Owners and non owners alike are fine by me. let
me know if you are interested mikebabb@vnet.net
------------------------------
From: CDIUSAMPS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 02:00:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RE: Brake Rotors
Anyone heard anything about the progress of the drilled rotors Matt Peak was
checking on? E-mails to his address have gone unanswered. Thanks, BILL
------------------------------
From: "Scott Mueller" Date: Fri, 2 May 97
11:35:56 UT
Subject: More car shows
May 4, 1997
Hillsborough Concours d'Elegance
10 am to 5pm
Crocker and North Hillsborough Schools
Ralston and Eucalyptus, Hillsborough
http://www.hillsboroughconcours.org
Let me know if you can come, maybe we can meet somewhere. I will not be
bringing my DeLorean this weekend.
I will try to attend, I met a DeLorean owner who said he may be there. I also
just enjoy seeing perfect cars.
Last weekend I went to the "Pacific Coast Dream Machines" in Halfmoon Bay.
It was a lot of fun. I met three DeLorean owners. One brought his car, bright
yellow/black. Looked kind of cool. They are in the process of moving
from the Bay Area to the Mountains. I am looking forward to hearing from
them
in the future. They are interested in just meeting with fellow owners for
picnics, poker runs, car shows, ect...
------------------------------
From: delorean@ix.netcom.com (Stephen Wynne) Date: Fri, 2 May 1997
10:15:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: moribundity
This is just a note to correct the impression that "Kapac is defunct", that Mike
Substelny left with his last posting.
Not that it particularly matters to any of us, but Kapac is alive and engaged in
other pursuits. Jane has not complained, (to me), of boredom. More to the
point, the inventory once owned by Kapac, now owned and managed by
DMC, is still existent and available to all who need Delorean parts and will
call and ask for them. Indeed, the inventory is growing daily. Stephen has
been in Columbus the past week, rummaging thru' the hoard, and has
discovered deposits of parts heretofore thought extinct. We have, by the way,
a large, no-LARGE! box of steering wheels, newly found. Other revelations
sure to follow.
Cheers,
Warren at DMC
delorean@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: "Michael E. Gaines" Date: Fri, 02 May 1997
11:45:46 +0100
Subject: Buzzer for headlights?
Hi all,
Is the D supposed to have a buzzer for when you leave the headlights on and
the door's open? I've left my lights on acidentally several times already and
I'd like to know what I can do to fix it.
Mike
------------------------------
From: franka@midwest.net (Frank Augustine) Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:46:05
-0500 (CDT) Subject: RE: 81, 82 and 83 Chronology UPDATE
If you want to add me to the list ... here I am
04181 Sept. 81 Frank Augustine (Illinois), Black, 5-speed
=============================================================
Frank A. Augustine
FOTOZ Color Lab 618-533-2244
franka@midwest.net
http://www.angelfire.com/il/fotoz/fotoz.html
http://www.angelfire.com/il/fotoz/viper.html
=============================================================
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny Date: Fri, 02 May 1997
12:38:23 -0400
Subject: Re: moribundity
Warren said:
>This is just a note to correct the impression that "Kapac is defunct", that
Mike Substelny left with his last posting.
Sorry, defunct was a crummy choice of words. In my defense I really didn't
know what word to use. Previous to this, no one from either Kapac or DMC
had told us how they would describe current state. Many thanks to Warren
for giving us an official explanation of the situation.
Brandon, this means that DMC Houston has KAPAC's supply of the door
guides that I recommended for you.
>We have, by the way, a large, no-LARGE! box of steering wheels, newly
found.
The KAPAC warehouse is an impressive sight. Stephen will likely find many
more hidden treasures like this. I hope DMC Houston continues to let
everyone know about the "new" goodies they dig up.
By the way, it's good to see Warren post on the list.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
From: "Michael M. Stark" Date: Fri, 02 May 1997
11:50:46 -0500
Subject: Series 20000
I've read a lot of conjecture about the 1983 models built after the plant closing.
Comments from spare parts or rejected parts being used to comments about
the inability of the plant managers to assemble cars. My question to the people
making these comments is what is the source of your info? I haven't read one
comment by an '83 owner complaining about having a lemon.
Michael Stark
maynard@wwa.com
VIN# 20103 "Last one marked for sale"
------------------------------
From: "Brandon S. Moody" Date: Fri, 02 May 97 04:11:09
PDT
Subject: Fuel Tank
Whats the best way to go about removing the fuel tank from the car ? I need
to clean it out and my fuel level indicator isn't working ?
------------------------------
From: Aaron Barrus
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 14:52:33 -0600
Subject: DML Search Engine
Hi all:
My first attempt at a search engine is now on my page, located at
"www.inconnect.com/~dthornto". There's a "dml search" link on the bottom
of the left frame.
Feel free to express some opinions on its functionality - I'm not done
tinkering with it yet.
Aaron
------------------------------
From: Phillip124@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 22:20:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Dependable???
I bought it in Roanoke, Vaginia. The man had 3. I bought one. He still has
the other's. One is an automatic and the other is a standard. The standard
is very nice. I think they both have about 14,000 miles on them.
------------------------------
From: DMC12
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 21:58:00 -0400
Subject: need some interior help
My right side window is off track(of course). I was wondering if anyone could
give a quick step-by-step on getting the door panel off without damaging it.
The service book is no help with this.
Also, can the dash binnacle be replaced without having to remove the main
dash?
Does anyone have a copy of stainless steel illusion they want to sell? How
about any other Delorean related book? Thanx,
Doug Venner
'83 #15880 N.J.
------------------------------
From: ausmith@pdx.oneworld.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 22:34:28 +0000
Subject: Re: need some interior help
Snip
>My right side window is off track(of course). I was wondering if anyone
could give a quick step-by-step on getting the door panel off without
damaging it. The service book is no help with this.
With the window downand from the outside of the car, lift the interior trim
up. It is held down by "fir trees" and they will resist. Get the whole top of the
trim free and thenmove it toward the front and up. That's all you need to
remove to get the window back on its' track. You might wonder why it came
off.
>Also, can the dash binnacle be replaced without having to remove the main
dash?
Of course. Refer to your service book.
Chris
------------------------------
From: Marc1956@aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 17:07:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Items for sale
I have several bound technical manuals for DeLoreans as well as a silver,
satin DeLorean jacket and showroom brochure. I will submit details to
anyone
who has an interest. I may be contacted at Marc1956@aol.com and I will
respond within 48 hours with specifics and prices.
------------------------------
From: Kenn Knowlton
Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 14:49:12 +0000
Subject: Torque for lug nuts
I am about to replace the tires on my D. I currently have the original
Goodyear NCT tires. I have been following the suggestions posted and have
decided to try the Yokohama AVS U+4 tires. I know I don't want the lugs
"snugged" all the way with a drill motor. But torque setting should be used
for the lug nuts?
Thanks In Advance
Kenn
------------------------------
From: Charles Goldfischer Date: Sat, 3 May 1997
22:49:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Two DMCs for Sale
Hi,
I'm just posting two DeLorean ads I found in the Times today. Ignore this if
you live around New York :)
BTW, the first one seems sort of cheap, considering the mileage...
1. 1981 DELOREAN Stainless Steel Coupe, A/C, 5-speed, 2100 Miles.
Meticulous
Owner. Distress Sale $15,985. Call (609)822-4014
2. 1981 DELOREAN Stainless Steel Coupe, A/C, 5-speed, 12000 Original Miles.
Cassette, Manuals & Service Records, black leather, wing doors, always
garaged. Asking $25K. Call (718)256-3912 day or nite.
Lemme know the VINs if you get any :]
- -= a49erfan =-
------------------------------
From: Phillip124@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 06:50:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: How do I drain and refill
the clutch fluid?
I don't know how to drain it. I have heard that the best fluid to use is Castrol
dot 4. Should it be in neutral when I drain it, or does it matter?
Let me know how to drain it...the fluid is not black, but then it's not pink
either. I may change the brake fluid as well since they use the same fluid,
right? Is it hard to change the brake fluid? Thank you
Phillip
7134
------------------------------
From: Phillip124@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 06:54:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Where do I find the right
epoxy spray to spray on the frame?
On the front of my frame I saw where the old epoxy had chiped away and
there
was a little bit of rust. I am going to sand off the old epoxy and rust and
coat it with new epoxy. I don't know what to buy though.
Phillip
7134
------------------------------
From: "Brandon S. Moody" Date: Sat, 03 May 97 10:52:34
PDT
Subject: Starting Problem
Anyone have any ideas where I should start looking to resolve an engine
start problem. The engine runs Great after it is started, but getting it started
usually takes atleast 6 to 10 seconds of cranking. It doesn't matter if its Hot or
cold, same either way.
and one other thing. My fuel pump does NOT shut off after turning the key
on before actually starting the engine. I was thinking that the pump should
come on for about 2 or 3 seconds then shut off until you actually start the
engine ? If this is correct, where might the sensor be located that reads the
pressure and switches the pump off ?
OH yeah, thought of something else. My fuel indicator stays on FULL all the
time, never moves. I cant figure this out. I have found a connector on top of
the fuel tank next to the fuel pump. Its a white connector with 3 wire leads.
Could this be part of the fuel indicator and part is missing ? Because, I cant
find anything that this will plug into.
sorry for all the questions but This is the only place I can find people that
know about the DMC-12. Most mechanics around here RUN and Hide at the
site of the car :-)
------------------------------
From: David Swingle Date: Sat, 3 May 97 23:26:20
-0600
Subject: Dave's Project - Brakes
As you may remember last time, I was going over the brakes to the the large
amound of green crud discovered in the master cylinder reservoir. I decided
to replace the master cylinder and do a "take apart and clean up" on the
calipers, replacing all the rubber parts. The pads appear to be about 50% worn
and the rotors look good, and at the rate I'll use them up they are probably
good for at a few years.
My suspicions were confirmed - the calipers were kind of gunked up, but, to
my surprise not corroded internally. I just got everything put back together
and don't appear to have any leaks, but the pedal feel is not quite right. The
master cylinder is the PJ Grady replacement mentioned in someone else's
posting a while back. While it appears identical to the original, there was a
note attached stating that it would be necessary to back out the adjusting screw
on the stud that protrudes from the brake booster, in order to maintain
correct pedal height. My guess is that I didn't back it our quite far enough. The
brakes work OK but the pedal travel is a little bit long. Tomorrow I plan to
readjust the stud (requires pulling the master cylinder away from the booster
again) and bleed the brakes again after letting it sit overnight. I've also been
seriously considering changing to the stainless flex brake lines mentioned
elsewhere on the list.
I'll probably go ahead and bleed the clutch at the same time. At first look this
appears to be real pain - I know where the slave cylinder is but haven't
spotted the bleed valve yet - its kind of buried at the back (front?) of the
engine.
Another piece of advice - the manual reprint set
(parts/techmanual/bulletins) that is commonly available from the Delorean
supply (Grady, DMC-Houston etc) companies is extremely valuable for
working on the car. I woudn't attempt much without it. Just reading through
it I noted answers to many of the questions asked on the mailing list. (Cooling
system bleeding procedures, when certain production changed occurred. etc.)
More Parts Q&A: - does anyone have a spare clutch reservoir cap? Mine
appears to have been replaced long ago with the cap from an old-style can of
brake fluid - it's metal and rusty.
Also where do you find the moulded hoses that seem to proliferate on Brit
cars? My PVC-to-air cleaner hose is split, and an off-the-shelf hose will kink
in that application.
Thanks for the responses on my steering wheel question - I was advised to try
and remove the existing one before getting another one - a good idea.
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #238
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