DeLorean Mailing List - 5/10/97
dmcnews-digest Saturday, 10 May 1997 Volume 02 : Number 240
In this issue:
RE: Changing a water pump?
Re: 2 questions ! (1 answer)
Re:idle RPM & noisy gizmo on engine valve cover DMC events
Re: Brakes
AirFlow Problems
Re: Door Locks
RE: Idle (Revisited)
Normal conditions?
Re: HISSING NOISE
utilizing MBZ horns...
260 degrees in the shade
Re: DMC events in UK
radio for sale
Re: Normal conditions?
Oil Pressure...
Who's going to EuroFest?
DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
Repair Shop List
Re: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
Re:idle RPM & noisy gizmo on engine valve cover
Re: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
Re: Brakes
bowie maryland british car day
RE: Brakes
RE: Changing a water pump?
Re: Synthetic Oil Approval
Silicone Approval
DMCNEWS.COM updated
BOUNCE dmcnews(AT)world.std.com: Non-member submission from Harada
am/fm/cb antenna
Factory/test track
Re:Nuts and Bolts
Yellow DeLorean Photos
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Rob Hook
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:28:31 -0400
Subject: RE: Changing a water pump?
Michael,
I have the same problem and will be replacing my water pump sometime
soon.
What I've found so far is that the local auto parts store quoted $330.00 for the
pump with the pulley. P.J. Grady quoted $230. Another list member
pointed me to an auto parts store called Car Quest. They have the pump for
$142. Obviously, I'm getting it from Car Quest. It looks like the intake
manifold must be removed in order to do this which poses the problem of
gaskets and o-rings. I called DeLorean 1 and they quoted me $99 for some kit
that has the o-rings, gaskets and a bunch of other things. I see in one of their
catalogs now that they have a kit with just the o-rings and gaskets for much
less. I'm going to order that this evening. I have an 800 number for Car Quest
where they'll tell you the closest store. I'll post it later as I don't have it with
me.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: RFMcNeill(AT)aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:29:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: 2 questions ! (1
answer)
I think you mean 750 RPM!
Robin McNeill
------------------------------
From: Mike Substelny Date: Wed, 07 May 1997
13:01:06 -0400
Subject: Re:idle RPM & noisy gizmo on engine valve cover
Brandon asked:
>1) What should the Idle RPM be ?
Mike Gaines answered:
>Mine's rock solid at 7500 RPMs which I think is right where it should be.
Yow! Idle is supposed to be about 750 RPM, not 7500! I can't read my tach that
precisely, so I'm satisfied with anything that's in the 700 - 900 range.
>2) What is the little gizzmo attached to the top
oof the engine valve cover on the passenger side with a couple of hoses and 2
wires attached to it. Its makes lots of noise when I turn the key on. Just
curious to what it is and if it should be making
tthis noise ?
I believe you are describing a part of the fuel injection system. It's called "the
fuel regulator" or something like that. Rob Grady talked about it at his tech
seminar in Nashville.
I think its function is to send timed pulses of fuel to the injection system.
From your description yours is operating normally. Most of the time it
should just sit quietly, but every now and then (including at starting) it
should buzz like a locust for a few seconds.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
From: Rdalhaug1(AT)aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 16:10:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: DMC events
Does any one know of any DMC events in the uk?
------------------------------
From: BRUCE BENSON Date: Wed, 7 May 1997
21:53:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Brakes
>Also, a friend
>recommended switching to silicone fluid at this point since everything will
be empty. I guess DOT absorbs water and a sitting car's calipers will do exactly
what they did on mine. Has anyone else out there switched to silicone?
Regular brake fluid does absorb water and silicone doesn't. That's good and
bad. If the silicone doesn't absorb water that means just plain water can end
up sitting somewhere in the system. I prefer to flush the brake system every
other year and use the recommended Castrol dot 4.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
From: Jason and Kerri Winter Date: Wed, 07 May
1997 17:28:56 -0500
Subject: AirFlow Problems
I am having trouble with the airflow coming out of the vents. The problem is
that there is none!! I have replaced the fan motor and there is still no
difference. It makes no difference if I have it on defrost or vent. Has anybody
else had this problem? Also what is the easiest way to remove the fuel
accumulator? I just received mine and was wondering how to get to the old
one.
On the subject of door locks.. I have replaced mine with a set of actuators and
a keyless entry system. On the second channel, I hooked up another solenoid
to the door pull rods and now the driver door opens with a push of a button.
No more problems with the old solenoids or lock module.
Thanks
Jason Winter
winter(AT)onramp.net
------------------------------
From: BRUCE BENSON Date: Wed, 7 May 1997
21:27:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Door Locks
At 02:37 PM 5/6/97 +0000, you wrote:
>I have a problem with the door locks. I have traced the problem down to the
little black box that sits behind the passenger seat thats held down with 2
screws.
One of the components is completely
>burned to a point of no recognition. DMC in Houston does not have this
part. does anyone have an extra ??
The little black box is the door lock module. I can't belive DMC in Houston
doesn't have one. They rebuild them and sell them on an exchange basis. Rob
Grady also sells his ZILLA series door lock modules.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
From: CDIUSAMPS(AT)aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:24:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RE: Idle (Revisited)
According to the repair manual the idle should be 750 rpm (+ or - 50). Also
if I read the manual correctly the idle should remain constant at that RPM
both with the A/C off and on. BILL
------------------------------
From: Jameel Ahed
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 15:52:02 -0500
Subject: Normal conditions?
Dear DML,
I was wondering what the normal operating conditions are for our engines.
What is the normal OIL PSI? the normal Coolant Temperature? Right now
my oil PSI is at 80... and it goes down to about 70 or little less when the engine
is just idling but when I take off... it goes to 80 and stays. I got my radiator fans
to operate correctly now, and I was just wondering what normal operating
temperature is. Thank you. Jameel
- --
- -------------------------------------------------- Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH
Industries Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions HOMEPAGE:
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu
- --------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: James Nichols Date: Wed, 07 May 1997
16:22:44 +0000
Subject: Re: HISSING NOISE
michael richard pack wrote:
Its a vacuum leak.
First try moving the mode control through all posotions at least twice.
Behind that mode switch is a rubber disk with a bunch of neat little rubber
pathways that controls the vacuum to the various controls. Occasionally
mine will start hissing especially when I switch from A/C to vent and the air
controls will not set right (blower but no air from the vents). If you remove
one of the vacuum hoses from back of the selector that goes to one of the
diaphram devices and give the control a shot of multi purpose spray lube (I
have used both WD-40 and Silicone spray) and then work the control to all
positions, this should cure the hiss and everything will work for at least six
months. In fact the last time that I did that was four years ago.
------------------------------
From: thomas mccoy Date: Wed, 7 May 1997
13:50:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: utilizing MBZ horns...
Good point Marv. Mercedes stock horns are also very loud! Anyone wanting
more substantial horns, but not air horns, should acquire a pair of 'em!
------------------------------
From: Starman
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 22:19:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: 260 degrees in the shade
Hi all,
It happened on the way home..my water pump blew out all that was left of
the coolant. My D was running at 260 degrees for about a mile. No damage; it
got bad only about 2 miles from home so my wife came out with coolant and
within 1/2 mile my temp was back down to 180. There was coolant all over
the road where I stopped. The bottle was empty. The D's gonna have to be off
the road until I get it fixed. If you're leaking coolant, do youself a favor and
GET IT FIXED. You don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no
coolant!
Mike
------------------------------
From: RFMcNeill(AT)aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 01:38:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: DMC events in UK
10:30 Pm 5-7-97
There is a 15 year anniversary event in Belfast later this Month. Weekend of
24 May.
e-mail for more info.
RFMcNeill(AT)aol.com
------------------------------
From: pool
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 01:30:22 -0500
Subject: radio for sale
I have a craig radio out of a delorean for sale. Everything works on it except
the display. It still looks great! $85 dollars or best offer.
------------------------------
From: James Nichols Date: Wed, 07 May 1997
23:26:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Normal conditions?
Jameel wrote:
If your oil pressure stays around 80, your oil pressure transmitter is probably
bad. It is located just behind your oil filter and is the thing that you hit when
you replace your filter with the recommended replacement. The replacement
that I found is a STANDARD 157 which is a 0-80 psi positive transmitter (0
volts at 0 psi and 12 volts at 80 psi). It appears to be an exact replacement to the
original. Don't remove the metric to 1/8 inch pipe adapter that is threaded
into the block. My oil pressure dropped to about 60 at idle and will go almost
to 80 above 3000 RPM.
The service manual says that Min pressure should be 32 psi at 900 RPM and
65 psi at 4000 RPM.
After replacing my thermostat, the temp guage rarely gets more that a quarter
of the way up but the heater works will now in cold weather.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
From: Jameel Ahed
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:38:53 -0500
Subject: Oil Pressure...
Dear DML,
I just spoke to somebody at PJ Grady, and I found something out... One of the
reasons why my oil pressure guage could be giving me the wrong reading, is
the type of oil filter used. When I got the car, I got an oil filter that was said to
work on the Delorean. It was to short and fat compared to what was on my
car. The filter that was on my car was the fram 3600. I got one of those and it
worked fine. no leaks. But supposedly it has some type of plug in it, where the
$13 oil filter doesn't. This $13 filter is what PJ Grady recommends. They say
that this filter will allow the sensor to work correctly. And since this sensor is
just for us to see what our pressure is, and not for a computer or other device
to monitor the oil pressure it is okay that it doesn't work properly. I hope this
info helps others out. Jameel
- --
- -------------------------------------------------- Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH
Industries Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions HOMEPAGE:
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu
- --------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: James Espey
Date: Thu, 8 May 97 09:43:15 -0000
Subject: Who's going to EuroFest?
Okay, EuroFest is two weeks away - who all is going? I'm going, as are a
couple other people I know from the list - I may make some "DeLorean
Mailing List" buttons for us to wear so we can identify each other...
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
From: "Murray Fisher"
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:07:28 -0700
Subject: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
I am a one month new owner of VIN 5962 with 3443 miles.
I am getting all the filters etc ready for having the car serviced so I know
exactly where I stand in that regard.
Do any of you have experience with or know if it would be wise to use a
synthetic oil and what grade?
I have read beaucoup articles pro and con and both sides have very
convincing arguments...I just read a CON side where a lot of taxis were used
and the bottom line said to buy the cheapest oil you could find and forget the
synthetic (I do not want to believe that!!) The PRO side has just as convincing
arguments.
Any input for me?
Murray
murrayf(AT)bmi.net
------------------------------
From: ABatt10347(AT)aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 13:36:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Repair Shop List
Here is the long awaited Repair shop list. These shop came from fellow
DMCers
who have had work done at these shops. If you have any shops to add please
contact me at ABatt10347(AT)aol.com
AL:
Southern Star Motor Co
716 Wilmer Ave.
Anniston, AL 36201
Phone # 205-236-5389
Contact; Daniel Peek
(Anniston is located on I-24 between Atlanta, GA and Birmingham, AL)
AZ:
Mesa Auto Works
Mesa, AZ
(near Phoenix)
Phone # 602-969-1954
Contact: Mike Bacon
CA:
Hayward Automotive
22145 Mission Blvd.
Hayward, CA 94541
Phone # 510-537-2787
CO:
Haglin Automotive
Boulder, CO
Phone # 303-442-8547
Contact: Dana Haglin
CT:
Lee Partyka Chevyland
200 Skiff St.
Hamden, CT 06517
Phone # 203-288-7761
GA:
Sal's Import Specialist
589 Hwy 120
Lawrenceville, GA 30245
Phone # 770-338-1979
Contact: Sal Iacano
Body Work:
AAA Body Shop Inc.
1780 Hembree Rd. Ste 200
Alpharetta, GA 30201
Phone # 770-462-2640
Contact: Joe Scott
MI:
Wolfis Auto Service
7243 S. Westnedge
Kalamazoo, MI 49002
Phone # 616-327-7238
NJ:
Euro Experts Technicians
100Frontage Rd.
Cherry Hill, NJ
Phone # 609-428-8100
(located on Route 70 just west of I-295
Jafstram Imported Car Service
869 Haddon Ave.
Collingswood, NJ
Phone # 609-854-8316
NY:
PJ Grady
118 Montauk Highway
West Sayville, NY
Phone # 516-589-6224
K & K
Route 9
Newburgh, NY
Phone # 914-562-4330
Contact: Edward Koop
OH:
Rick Yusi's Garage
Strongsville, OH
Contact: Walt Pochadic
Bauerle Automotive
4156 Radnor Road
Radnor, OH
Phone # 614-595-3348
OR:
Foreign Car Specialists
3127 Pacific Ave.
Forest Grove, OR 97116
Phone # 503-357-7049
Contact: Chris Myers
PA:
Quality Tire
Willets & Holme Aves.
Philadelphia, PA 19114-3806
Phone # 215-677-4070
Contact: Mike
(North East Philadelphia)
Santoro's AutomotiveKings Highway South (AT) Baus Road
East Greenville, PA 18041-9425
Phone # 215-679-7791
Contcat: Rick
( Near Exit 32 PA Turnpike, half way between Quakertown and Pottstown
near Routes # 29 & #663 (AT) Marshall's Barn)
TN:
Classic Auto Works
914 Main St.
Nashville, TN
Phone # 615-262-1284
Contact: Bob Acuff
Import Auto Service
985 Long Hollow Pike
Gallatin, TN 37066
Phone # 615-452-6595
Contact: Leon Brawner
TX:
Delorean Motor Company
10804 Roark Road
Houston, TX
1-800-USA-DMC1
Again if anyone has a shop that they have used and have been happy with
the
work, please email me with the name ,address, phone #, and a contact person.
(ABatt10347(AT)AOL.com). Could use some shops from the following states------
WA,ID,MT,UT,NV,SD,NE,KS,OK,NM,LA,IA,MN,WI,IL,IN,KY,MO,AR,WV,
VA, NC,
SC,FL,MD,DE,VT,NH,RI,ME,AK, and HI. The list is for the members who
intend to
travel with their DMC and breakdown in a strange place. Thanks to the
following people for your help: James, Bill, Widdomaker, Radddad, Kevin,
Tom,
Arron, Scott, Frederick, Mike, Knut, Joe,
Bruce Battles
------------------------------
From: Phillip124(AT)aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 17:54:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: DeLorean on Synthetic
Oil
I had the oil changed Monday and I had them use 20W50 Castrol Part
Synthetic.
I also had them use an original oil filter. They said that the part synthetic oil
would be better for the engine while it was in storage and not
driven much. They also said that the synthetic would last longer. It is better
quality. I want the very best for my car.
Phillip
vin 7134
------------------------------
From: BRUCE BENSON Date: Wed, 7 May 1997
21:53:27 +0000
Subject: Re:idle RPM & noisy gizmo on engine valve cover
>>2) What is the little gizzmo attached to the top
ooof the engine valve cover on the passenger side with a couple of hoses and
2 wires attached to it. Its makes lots of noise when I turn the key on.
It's the frequency valve that works in conjunction with the voltage signals
coming from the oxygen sensor. In a nutshell, the sensor sends signals to the
electronic control unit behind the drivers seat. The control unit deciphers the
signals and relays the info to the frequency valve which controls the fuel
flowing to the engine. The idea is to maintain the ideal (
called the Stoichometric ratio )ratio of 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
From: bjr(AT)wwa.com (Billy J. Runyan)
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 07:06:49 -0500
Subject: Re: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
>I had the oil changed Monday and I had them use 20W50 Castrol Part
Synthetic.
>I also had them use an original oil filter. They said that the part synthetic oil
would be better for the engine while it was in storage and not
>driven much. They also said that the synthetic would last longer. It is better
quality. I want the very best for my car.
>Phillip
>vin 7134
Been there, done this, what a scare! I changed to synthetic oil at 7000 miles
and within a few hundred miles my oil presure started droping like a bomb. I
immediately changed back to a normal heavy weight oil (20w/50w) and
"nursed" the presure back up to normal. The reason this happened I'm told is
that the engine had "seated" using conventional oil. The synthetic
would have been better if I had started the break in using it when I first got
the car. Watch your oil gauge closely. Good luck.
vin 1042
Billy J. Runyan
bjr(AT)wwa.com
------------------------------
From: rbarryb(AT)planet.net.au (R Barry Brogan) Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:03:18
+0000
Subject: Re: Brakes
>>Also, a friend
>>recommended switching to silicone fluid at this point since everything will
be empty. I guess DOT absorbs water and a sitting car's calipers will do exactly
what they did on mine. Has anyone else out there switched to silicone?
>Regular brake fluid does absorb water and silicone doesn't. That's good and
>bad. If the silicone doesn't absorb water that means just plain water can end
up sitting somewhere in the system. I prefer to flush the brake system every
other year and use the recommended Castrol dot 4.
>Bruce Benson
Have used silicone in my 1964 Mercedes 230SL for the past six years and swear
by it.
Barry Brogan, Australia
------------------------------
From: michael richard pack Date: Fri, 9 May 1997
09:46:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: bowie maryland british car day
sunday 6-22-97
bowie maryland
allen pond park
approx 20 min from wash dc
there were 10 deloreans there last year. i organized the delorean owners to
come. there were 650 cars from all british marques there including delorean.
entry cost is $12.00 before 6-1-97. the cost jumps to $20.00 at the gate, or after 6-
2-97.
e-mail me if you are interested in this years show.
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:33:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Brakes
Michael,
Where did you get your rebuild kits for the rear calipers? I couldn't find
them at any of my local sources and finally broke down and ordered them
from D-1. They were expensive but I decided I didn't want to waste any more
time. If you have a part number, please post it. I don't need it now
but I'm sure there will be other people who will need it in the future.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
From: Rob Hook
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 12:06:47 -0400
Subject: RE: Changing a water pump?
Here's the number for Car Quest: 1(800)492-7278. The person will ask you for
you ZIP code and then give you the closest store. They have the water
pump (sans pulley I think) for $124 not $142 as I said earlier. Let me know if
you have luck with this as mine won't be in until next week. To quote what
Marty said earlier:
The water pump for the Delorean is available from any Car Quest auto parts
store. There are two versions made. The original style with the press
on pulley is part number 9147 and the later model with the bolt on pulley is
part number 9146. Check the picture in the parts book when you order, I may
have the part numbers reversed. Anyway these water pumps sell for about
$110
ea with out pulleys. They are the same pumps as on the car, right down to the
casting number on the housing.
The pulley on the original pump must be pressed off and then pressed back
on the new pump. This is not hard to do if you use some care. Note: befor you
press the original pulley off you must measure the offset distance
from the pulley to the pump housing. When the pulley is installed on the
new
pump you must maintain this offset distance for the v-belts to align. The
water pump shaft does not have a shoulder or stop for the pulley to set
against so it can be pressed on too far. The shaft on the new pump is also
about 2inchs longer then the original pump. It just sticks thru the pulley
farther than the original after installation. You can either cut the excess
shaft off or just leave it long. It does not interfear with anything after
reinstallation. This is the reason you must measure the offset from the pulley
to the HOUSING and maintain this distance.
As far as the later style pump with the bolt on pulley, I don't have any
experience with this unit. I do know the "D" shops that sell these units have
a billet aluminum pulley made to go with their pumps. You buy it as a
complete assembly. I doubt if you could buy just the pulley. These pumps are
for later model Volvos but I don't know if a pulley from a later model would
have the correct offset or be the correct size. Maybe someone else on the list
can help with this.
Marty
------------------------------
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01, Don_Gowler-CFPO01(AT)email.mot.com Date: Fri,
9 May 1997 11:52:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil Approval
Message authorized by:
: bjr(AT)wwa.com(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
Phillip said "I had the oil changed Monday and I had them use 20W50 Castrol
Part
Synthetic. They said that the part synthetic oil would be better for the engine
while it was in storage and not driven much ----------".
Billy J. Runyan replied "Been there, done this, what a scare! I changed to
synthetic oil at 7000 miles and within a few hundred miles my oil pressure
started dropping like a bomb. I immediately changed back to a normal heavy
weight oil (20w/50w) and "nursed" the pressure back up to normal---------".
______________________________________________________
_____________________
My experience has been absolutely great. Changed to 20/50 synthetic on my 82
at
around 16,000 miles and have added 4,000 since with no fluctuation in oil
pressure at all. On my 81 I changed at 9,000 and have added 1,000 without any
noticeable difference. My input from an oil techy was that this was best for an
engine that laid around a lot as it clings to the parts and makes for non
abrasive cold starting. One warning though is don't switch back to regular oil
without an internal engine wash-down.
Best regards, The Silver Fox
------------------------------
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01 Date:
Fri, 9 May 1997 10:51:00 -0500
Subject: Silicone Approval
Message authorized by:
: rbarryb(AT)planet.net.au(AT)INTERNET at #EMAIL
I too have used silicone in the D's for several years without any problems in
the feel of the brakes.
Regards, The Silver Fox
______________________________________________________
_____________________ ____
>>>Also, a friend recommended switching to silicone fluid at this point since
everything will be empty. I guess DOT absorbs water and a sitting car's calipers
will do exactly what they did on mine. Has anyone else out there switched to
silicone?
>>Regular brake fluid does absorb water and silicone doesn't. That's good and
bad. If the silicone doesn't absorb water that means just plain water can end
up sitting somewhere in the system. I prefer to flush the brake system every
other year and use the recommended Castrol dot 4.
>>Bruce Benson
>Have used silicone in my 1964 Mercedes 230SL for the past six years and
swear by it.
>Barry Brogan, Australia
------------------------------
From: James Espey
Date: Fri, 9 May 97 08:47:31 -0000
Subject: DMCNEWS.COM updated
Some updates have been made to the DMCNEWS.COM web pages...
1. Section 2 of the Parts Manual as the featured PDF for May
2. Knut Grimsrud has updated the FAQ to version 2.4.
3. DeLorean Owners Directory updated thru 5/8/97 (50 entries!)
One note about the DeLorean Owners Directory: It is only accessible to those
that have submitted their information at
"http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html" - after submitting this
information, you will be emailed with a login and password that will give
you access to the DMC-News Lounge. Clicking on the "pi" symbol that people
were talking about last week takes you to this password protected area.
This weekend, I plan to update the "links" page as well as start a "local clubs"
page. If any of you belong to a local/regional group, please forward the contact
information to me for inclusion. Since the DOA board recently voted to
dissolve their local chapters, this area shoudl prove useful to those who are
looking for a group or are re-forming their former DOA chapter as a new
group.
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
From: dmcnews-approval
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 13:01:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: BOUNCE
dmcnews(AT)world.std.com: Non-member submission from
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This is a test of the DeLorean Mailing List. This is only a test.
Had this been an actual posting, you would've gleaned some particularly
useful tidbit or other interesting information about the DeLorean automobile,
company or man.
This concludes the test of the DeLorean Mailing List.
Thank you, thank you very much.
------------------------------
From: raddad(AT)cmn.net
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 10:40:53 -0700
Subject: Harada am/fm/cb antenna
Someone -- Marv Sterling, I think -- mentioned they had a Harada am/fm/cb
power antenna on their DMC. Would like to know model # and whether the
reception was satisfactory.
Thanks
Dick Ryan
------------------------------
From: Kevin MacDougall Date: Fri, 09 May 1997
15:35:38 -0400
Subject: Factory/test track
Hi All
Does the factory building still exist or was it destroyed... What about the test
track..
Kevin MacDougall
Kevinmac(AT)tiac.net http://www.tiac.net/users/kevinmac
************************************************************************
* "If you're going to build a time machine out of a car, why not do it with
some style?" (Doc Brown)
------------------------------
From: Kurt Colin
Date: Fri, 9 May 97 13:34:24 MST
Subject: Re:Nuts and Bolts
I just finished putting custom built new lower control arms on the front of
my car as well as new shocks on all four corners, but i still cant get steering
arms end joints off the spindles to replace the rack boots. any sugestions
would be helpful. also how is the best way to replace the rear trailing arm
bolts, my factory tech manual isn't very clear on how to keep the car from
falling apart while your doing it.
thanks,
Kurt Colin
kcolin(AT)insight.com
------------------------------
From: "Scott Mueller" Date: Thu, 8 May 97
00:37:19 UT
Subject: Yellow DeLorean Photos
Thomas, I took some photo's of the Yellow DeLorean at the "Pacific Coast
Dream
Machines" show in Half Moon Bay.
When I get the film developed, I can e-mail you a copy.
Please send a request directly to me, so I'm sure I have your address correct.
SCOTTAMUELLER(AT)MSN.COM
From: thomas mccoy Date: Mon, 5 May 1997
13:01:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Yellow DMC; loud horns
A yellow DMC was mentioned in the previous issue. If anyone could obtain
photos, it would be greatly appreciated. I've heard that yellow is very
stunning on a De Lorean!
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #240
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