DeLorean Mailing List - 5/15/97
dmcnews-digest Thursday, May 15 1997 Volume 02 : Number 241
In this issue:
starting problems
Various responses
PHOTO'S IN DMC NEWS WEB SITE
Re: Harada am/fm/cb antenna
Re: Yellow DeLorean Photos
DMC questions !
EURO-FEST
Re: DMC questions !
Are Automatics any good?
Re: DMC questions - not charging
Steering Wheel, Tools, Spare
Exhaust System Blues.
DMC 12's for sale in the UK
Engine Number
Tool requirementss? What tool requirements?
Special tools
Caliper rebuild kits
Dealer sign for sale
ABE want matches
New lower prices from DMC (Houston)
Re: Special tools
RE: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
VIN#5980
RE: Repair Shop List
NJ car show
Alternator Problems !!
Color-code
RE: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
Re: Color Code
DMC mixture control setpoint info
RE: Color-code
Craig tape deck flex circuits
DeLoreans in the St. Louis Area
July 81 Radio For Sale!
DML '81 CRAIG STEREO WITH SPEAKERS FOR SALE
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 00:05:24 -0500
From: Steve Brodsky Subject: starting problems
is it my imagination or does there appear to be a significant number of
instances of starting/running problems suddenly cropping up? Given that all
the cars are about the same age, I'd look for a common denominator that may
be age related. Warren at DMC had the best idea I've heard yet when I spoke
with him. Check the inlet hose on the fuel pump in the tank. Age and/or
new gas formulations can cause it to deteriorate and cause loss of suction. I've
had cases with mechanical fuel pumps where the layers of a hose seperated
internally. The gas under pressure pumped between the layers of rubber
causing a restriction in the hose. I'm going to try it this weekend myself.
Steve Brodsky #10688
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 00:54:30 -0400 (EDT) From: Mpeak(AT)aol.com
Subject: Various responses
James Senft: Most parts manufacturers list the Delorean oil filter as being
the same as the Volvo B28F engine. This filter doesn't work because the oil
pressure switch is in the way. The Volvo filter can be used if a 45 degree
adapter for the oil pressure switch is used (available from NAPA,
Weatherhead
part #3350X2). If not, the stock Delorean oil filter is the same as an early
80's Porsche 924. I believe the best filters are either a Bosch or a NAPA 1342.
David Swingle: I think the best way to drain the coolant is, like you said,
by removing the coolant hose attached to the radiator on the passenger side.
The coolant will not completely drain out of all the pipes if it is drained
from the engine plug since this is not one of the lowest points in the cooling
system.
Thomas McCoy and others: I don't understand what you find so pitiful about
the Delorean horns? I actually find the stock MIXO horns to be quite adequate
and much better than I expected them to be when I bought the car.
If you want pitiful, have you ever heard a Toyota Corolla or VW Bug horn?
It's louder on the inside of the car than it is on the outside.
Brandon S. Moody: I believe the accumulator is located in the middle of the
frame underneath the car. It is gold in color and looks like another fuel
pump.
Michael M. Stark: I believe the best oil to use in the Delorean or any car
is Castrol Syntec 5W-50 not only because it is a synthetic oil but it also has the
widest viscosity range which means easy starting and high load capabilities at
operating temperatures.
Claus Groth: I have a Purolator AF-4275 in my car and it works fine. Why do
you say it doesn't?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 97 00:39:46 UT
From: "Scott Mueller" Subject: PHOTO'S
IN DMC NEWS WEB SITE
James, I really think it would be good if you did include a "Readers Rides"
section on the web site.
I enjoy seeing my favorite vehicle in different settings, and it would let us
see what modified D's look like.
What do other readers think?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 03:27:50 -0700
From: "Marvin S. Sterling" Subject: Re: Harada
am/fm/cb antenna
raddad(AT)cmn.net wrote:
>Someone -- Marv Sterling, I think -- mentioned they had a Harada
am/fm/cb power antenna on their DMC. Would like to know model # and
whether the reception was satisfactory.
>Thanks
>Dick Ryan
- ----------------------------------
Dick,
The model # is TX20 ... it has a silver shaft ... after you tune the tip for the CB
the rx and tx on CB is great ... the fm and am reception is equally good. It
comes with the relay but you don't have to use it since it is the same one that
was used on the original. Not sure if they make it with a black shaft but that
much of a purist I wasn't. Best regards,
Marv
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 15:41:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Aries458(AT)aol.com
Subject: Re: Yellow DeLorean Photos
Hi. I would like to see those Yellow DeLorean photos. When you get them
developed, could you send me them? Thanks =)
- --=-Aaron-=--
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 97 05:48:14 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody" Subject: DMC questions !
1) can someone give me the part # for a good automatic Tran filter ?
2) My DMC has suddenly stopped charging and the red "battery" lamp
has came one, ANY ideas ? I have a NEW battery.
3) The "cold start injector". OK, the connection at the injector is
(2) wires,
can someone give me a quick rundown on where the wires go from there.
My injector is not working, I'm only getting about 5.5 volts from the
connector.
so I figure I may have a corrosion problem somewhere in the wiring ?
MAYBE ?
And this is kinda a general, opinion, question concerning Painted Delorean
cars.
What is everyones feeling on painted cars. Do you think they are painted
because
someone just hated the stainless appearance and wanted color, or do you
think
they are painted to hide a previous collision ? I'm sure some of you guys
have
painted cars, I'm just curious ? I just cant understand hiding the only truely
"unique" feature of the Delorean.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 97 03:12:17 UT
From: "Scott Mueller" Subject: EURO-FEST
JAMES,
I Will be attending Euro-fest in Belfast this month. Looking forward to
meeting you and all the other DeLorean owners. The DMCNEWS Buttons are
a great idea.
Sign me up for a button.
SCOTTAMUELLER(AT)MSN.COM
1981 DMC-12
#2981
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 16:58:23 +0000
From: BRUCE BENSON Subject: Re: DMC
questions !
>3) The "cold start injector". OK, the connection at the injector is
>(2) wires,
>can someone give me a quick rundown on where the wires go from there.
>My injector is not working, I'm only getting about 5.5 volts from the
connector.
>so I figure I may have a corrosion problem somewhere in the wiring ?
>MAYBE ?
Sender: dmcnews-approval(AT)world.std.com
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
The cold start valve is triggered by the thermo-time switch on the drivers side
of the waterpump. When the coolant is cold a bi-metal spring inside the
switch makes contact and sends an electrical impulse to the coldstart valve.
When the ignition switch is turned on, electrical current flows through the
bi-metal spring, heating it up, and in a number of seconds distorting it
enough to break the contact with the coldstart valve. This prevents flooding
the engine. If the cold start valve isn't working, this should be the first
place to look at as the source of the problem.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 12:34:57 PDT
From: "Bryan Nethers" Subject: Are Automatics any
good?
I have had a manual transmisson DMC for 3 years now and I was in the
market for
a new one. I found this guy who has an automatic DMC. But I had heard
through
sources that the Automatic DMC's weren't any good. What do you guys
think?
- --------------------------------------------------------- Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email
at http://www.hotmail.com - ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 03:03:39 -0700
From: "Marvin S. Sterling" Subject: Re: DMC
questions - not charging
Brandon S. Moody wrote:
snip ...
>2) My DMC has suddenly stopped charging and the red "battery" lamp
hhas came one, ANY ideas ? I have a NEW battery.
Sounds like a bad alternator. Have you checked the output. Or - it could be
that the belt is slipping. Just a thought. Regards,
Marv Sterling
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 97 23:43:57 -0600
From: David Swingle Subject: Steering Wheel,
Tools, Spare
This will probably the routine for the next few weeks, at least - Each weekend
I fix something, find something else broken, then order a basket of parts on
Monday and hope they get here by the next weekend. And so on.
. but it's fun anyway.
Whoever it was that told me the steering wheel was difficult to remove
wasn't kidding. Using a puller is futile, the holes in the wheel just strip right
out. I then attempted a procedure that involved striking the column with a
brass punch while pulling on the wheel - nothing there either. (Make sure
you do this with the tilt knob loosened unless you want to test your
collapsible steering column.) I ended up drilling out the now-stripped puller
holes with a 3/8 bit, and chiseling through the wheel casting adjacent to the
column to release some of the pressure, then the routine with the punch
again. That did the trick. Glad I don't intend to re-use the old wheel, although
it would still be useable.
I've also been unpleasantly surprised about tool requirements - it took me
some digging around and a call to Snap-On to get the tool required to drain
the oil and anti-freeze. I was surprised that no one else has mentioned this -
don't you folks change your own oil, or is your local Sears Hardware better-
equipped than mine?
One last surprise - the spare tire. Someone, or maybe DMC, had decided that it
would be a good idea to put three pieces of sponge under the spare for rattle
elimination. Unfortunately, the sponge also tends to hold water, in time
corroding the wheel rim enough that it no longer holds air at the bead. It
would be a good idea to check this if you haven't looked at your spare in a
while.
With things coming together, we've been getting a little bolder about driving
around. This led to the next discovery - the now-infamous fuel accumulator
problem (i.e. poor ability to hot-restart). This of course led to the inevitable
references to plutonium & flux capacitors by folks driving by. Next week
maybe - time to change the accumulator and filter.
Dave Swingle
dswingle(AT)enteract.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 00:07:13 -0400 (EDT) From: "Eric J. Hennebury"
Subject: Exhaust System Blues.
Well, I finally decided to get rid of that "tick tick" sound of my leaking
exhaust manifold gaskets. I discovered that the problem was caused by the
forward most stud on each manifold snapping thereby relieving pressure on
the gasket allowing for the leak. Is this a regular occurrence? I think I may
have heard of this happening before.
Anyways, now for the questions. First of all, what's the best method for
removing the broken studs (they're broken at the base... nothing to hold on
to). I was thinking of using screw extractors. Anyone else conquered this
problem before? Secondly, my manifolds are quite corroded, and I was
wondering if they were a Delorean specific part, or if I might be able to get
them through a Volvo dealer. Cross reference #'s anyone? If they are specific
to the Delorean, I guess I'll just have them cleaned up and resurfaced, but if
they are a readily available and relatively inexpensive part, I might as well
replace them since I already have them off.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Eric
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:39:08 +0200 (MET DST) From: Nikki Schumann
Subject: DMC 12's for sale in the UK
Found these 2 cars for sale in the UK. There's also a small photo availab= le
for each that I can mail if anyone is interested.
DE-LOREAN 1982 #excellent condition, featured recently on TV Tonight with
Ian Clayton, TT, poss p/x for small Diesel car or WHY, =A312,500. Tel: (0=
1427)
752879=20
DE LOREAN GULLWING 1987 #imported, 13,000 miles, FSH, Grey leather, 5
speed Manual, new tyres, superb condition, electric windows/mirrors, 2 ow=
ners
from new, with or without spoilers, parts easily available, =A314,500. Te= l:
(01392) 418888 (Devon)
The second one says year model 1987 ?!? and is a mistake in the original = add
- - not mine. It has some sort of ground effect kit that I think is pretty = ugly.
Do any of the cars belong to someone in the list ?
Regards,
Nikki.
- -------------------------------------------------- Nikki Schumann --- mail:
Nikki.Schumann(AT)wanadoo.fr
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/nikki.schumann/WELCOME.HTM - ---------------------
-----------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 02:15:13 -0700
From: Lee Seiler
Subject: Engine Number
Does any one know where the engine number is located.
Need to register my new DMC, Calif. DMV want's both VIN and Engine #s to
register an out of state car.
Thanks
Lee
lee(AT)ccnet.com
Tel: (510) 649-9118 Fax: (510) 848-7613
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:00:38 -0400
From: Mike Substelny Subject: Tool
requirementss? What tool requirements?
Dave Swingle said:
>"I've also been unpleasantly surprised about tool requirements. It took me
some digging around and a call to Snap-On to get the tool required to drain
the oil and anti-freeze."
Could you be more specific, Dave? I have changed my own oil and coolant,
but I never needed any special tools. What did you need?
- -Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 08:27:13 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Special tools
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:13:37 -0400
From: "Michael E. Gaines" To:
dmcnews(AT)world.std.com
Subject: Special tools
David Swingle wrote:
>I've also been unpleasantly surprised about tool requirements - it took me
some digging around and a call to Snap-On to get the tool required to drain
the oil and anti-freeze. I was surprised that no one else has mentioned this -
don't you folks change your own oil, or is your local Sears Hardware better-
equipped than mine?
This Snap-On part I had to get from Rob Grady. It's an 8mm square male
wratchet. I had a tough time finding it too. Auto parts places would look at
me quizzically. "Square bolt? You sure it's not stripped?". Yeah...a bolt that's
stripped perfectly square :P.
So far, that's the only special part I've had to get. I just spent the weekend
taking the water pump out (5 hours!) and I didn't need any special tools. I did
make concoctions of wratchet extenders and such. That rear, left side bolt for
the intake manifold is a pain in the neck to get to!
I have a service manual of some kind that lists special tools, but they're for
serious engine work, not simple tasks like changing the oil.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 12:44:43 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Caliper rebuild kits
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:32:12 -0500
From: "Michael M. Stark" To: DMC News
Subject: Caliper rebuild kits
The rebuild kits I found were not real bargain. I bought them thru DeLorean
Motor Company.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 14:54:36 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Dealer sign for sale
Subject: Dealer sign for sale
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 14:17:36 -0000
From: James Espey
To: "DMCNews"
I recently bought an original (two-sided) DeLorean dealership sign. As it is
two-sided, and I will be mounting it on a wall, hiding one side, I wondered if
anyone would be interested in buying the second side. It would be relatively
easy to make a nice box frame for it to mount some fluorescent lights inside.
It measures approx 11 feet long by 3 feet high and is constructed of plastic,
steel and (of course) stainless steel. There were only 348 dealers, so you can
imagine that these signs are not too common. One helluva conversation
piece, IMO. My girlfriend just rolled here eyes, so those of you with significant
others, take heed.
There's one in Hemmings for $2,000 and one in DeLorean World for about
that same price, if memory serves. $900 for the side by itself, or $1200 for the
side with the original metal box frame with lights plus shipping takes this
one. E-mail me if interested!
James Espey
espey(AT)dmcnews.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 18:41:10 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: ABE want matches
Subject: ABE want matches
Sent: 5/12/97 9:46 PM
Received: 5/12/97 5:11 PM
From: Advanced Book Exchange, abe(AT)abebooks.com
To: mikasa(AT)goodnet.com
To James Espey
The following wants have been matched by ABE:
***
Your Want: Keywords: delorean
Has been matched with the following book(s):
- --------
View the book description and ordering information at
http://www.abebooks.com/cgi/abe.exe/routera^_pr=oi^_ph=1^_bi=2174203
On a Clear Day You Can See General Motors by Wright, J. Patrick
Grosse Pointe, Mich.; Wright Enterprises (1979). First Edition (stated); Fine in
VG dustjacket; jacket has normal moderate wear, but no tears or creases; the
story of John Z. De Lorean at GM. Keywords: 1STED DELOREAN
AUTOMOTIVE CARS MICHIGAN NEWADDS 1STED The price of the book
is US$ 8.00 Please reference the seller's book # 361 when ordering.
The seller is Andy Phelps at 48081 Bayshore Drive, Belleville, MI, U.S.A.,
48111-2260
Email them at landrew704(AT)aol.com., phone them at (313) 697-4982. Their
conditions of sale are; Payment by check or money order only. Sorry, no credit
cards. Postage in the U.S. is $3.00 for the 1st book, $1.00 for each additional.
Outside U.S., postage will be quoted at actual cost.
This mail was created 05/12/1997 01:22:01 PM and postmarked 05/12/1997
02:22:48 PM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 21:33:44 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: New lower prices from DMC (Houston)
Subject: New lower prices from DMC (Houston) Date: Mon, 12 May 97 20:57:55
-0000
From: James Espey
To: "DMC News"
Received this fax from Warren at DMC (Houston) and wanted to post it to the
list. Be aware that I retyped this from a fax, so any typos are my fault and not
the responsibility of DMC (Houston).
James
**************************************** New DMC List Prices Effective
5/12/97
Part # Description Price
100404 Front wheel bearing 46.31
100486 Radiator w/plastic tanks 202.83
100519 fuel accumulator 109.45
100523 fuel filter 23.75
100763 hot water valve 58.63
100973 rear wheel bearing 83.83
101052 ignition coil 36.25
101064 rpm (tach-fuel) relay 74.25
101069 oxygen sensor 48.35
101315 sealed beam, high 11.25
101316 sealed beam, lo-hi 11.25
102024 rear main seal 15.65
102101 drain plug seal .88
102125 thermotime switch 24.65
102168 intake o-ring 1.94
102249 valve cover gasket 123 12.11
102256 valve cover gasket 456 12.11
102425 Ducillier alternator 156.25
102442 alternator belt 9.56
102573 timing cover oil seal 7.53
102575 air filter 15.83
102604 distributor rotor 16.50
102606 distributor cap 38.08
102706 camshaft 123 168.85
102707 camshaft 456 168.85
102709 thermostat 21.60
104218 auto trans comp governor 392.91
105505 a/c compressor belt 9.86
105638 a/c idler pulley bearing 22.90
110085 fuel pump 159.38
110151 wiper blade 10.96
111209 inertia switch 61.82
Note that these new prices are different from previous DMC or KAPAC list
prices, perhaps both. They will be lower or the same as previous prices from
either entity.
****************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:38:33 +0000
From: James Nichols Subject: Re: Special tools
Dave Swingle said:
>"I've also been unpleasantly surprised about tool requirements. It took me
some digging around and a call to Snap-On to get the tool required to drain
the oil and anti-freeze."
The tool can easily be made from a one foot piece of 5/16 square stock by
heating it about an inch and a half from one end and bending it 90 degrees
like an allen wrench. It's also, by far, the chespest.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 11:56:10 -0400
From: Rob Hook
Subject: RE: DeLorean on Synthetic Oil
I used to work at an army research center where we had product
assurance/maintenance engineers. One of my co-workers asked their
lubrication/petroleum expert about the various oils out there and he said that
they are all virtually the same. He also said that synthetics make no
difference until you get above 7,000-9,000 miles. At that point, normal oils
break down but synthetic keeps working fine. Before that point, synthetic
lubricates better but that would only make a difference if your engine were
about to seize anyway.
One thing I have been considerig is a by-pass oil filter. This is a filter
which suppliments the normal oil filter and takes a small amount of oil at
a time and filters it very thoroughly. I've heard a couple of people say that the
oil looks like new even after it's been in the car for 5,000 miles. I bet they
make one to fit a Volvo and that would probably fit the
DeLorean. If I ever track one down, I'll be sure to post the info.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 97 20:35 +0100
From: Klaus.Steiner(AT)t-online.de (KlausSteiner) Subject: VIN#5980
My Name is Klaus Steiner an I write from Germany. Last year a Dream come
true - I became a De Lorean-Owner. I get my car from a
sports-car dealer in Germany with no papers or any information about its
history.
My DMC, VIN# 5980 was build Oct. 1981. The car was shipped from USA to
Germany
in middle 1990. On the windshild is a sticker with the 87's Emission Control
in
Georgia and under the seat hidden in the carpet I found a brass-plaque (maybe
a
room number or so) on which is the inscription "Quail-Suite" -what ever this
means...
Does anyone have any information about this car or knows the former
owners?
Please e-mail me!
Klaus.Steiner(AT)t-online.de
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 11:06:55 -0400
From: Rob Hook
Subject: RE: Repair Shop List
One more to add for Maryland:
ATTN: Wilbur
Emerald City Automotive
8134 Beechcraft Avenue
Gaithersburg, MD 20879
This shop has a DMC factory-trained technician and is only a few miles from
D.C.
I'm also working on a shop for Virginia. I'll post that if I persuade the
owner (a close friend) to get some of his mechanics to spend some time
working on mine.
One other note for list members: Since the DeLorean is pretty much made
from parts of other cars, most of the mechanical work can be handled by any
shop familiar with foreign cars. The trick is helping them get over their
fear of the car.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 18:06:37 -0400
From: DMC12
Subject: NJ car show
This Sunday is the British car show in Mt. Laurel N.J. Hope to see some
DeLorean owners there.
There is going to be all kinds of neat cars to look at. E-mail me if anyone still
needs any info on the event Doug Venner
'83 #15880
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 97 22:31:06 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody" Subject: Alternator
Problems !!
I think this car is going to cause me to loose my mind !! Here is the story !
One day, my "battery light" comes on, and the voltage starts to drop. So, I
guess it to be a bad alternator. So, I remove it and take it to a local parts store,
They look at it, disapear to the back, then show up with a new one. Exactly
like the original. I take it home, install it, and everything is fine. voltage is up
and light is off. Then, no more than 6 hours later, Same thing is happening.
showing about 8 volts and light is back on. Has anyone else had a problem
like this ? Is there something else in the system like a voltage regulator or
something ? HELP PLEASE !!
AND
I'm trying to find a replacement
AUTO TRAN FILTER and Gasket
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 9:02:03 +0100
From: andreas(AT)tradesoft.se
Subject: Color-code
Does anybody know the color-code for the gray area in the front and back of
the car?
Andreas
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:44:56 +0000
From: BRUCE BENSON Subject: RE: DeLorean
on Synthetic Oil
He also said that synthetics make
>no
>difference until you get above 7,000-9,000 miles. At that point, normal oils
break down but synthetic keeps working fine. Before that point, synthetic
lubricates better but that would only make a difference if your engine were
about to seize anyway.
Synthetic oils, like Mobil 1, are a petroleum product but the molecular
structure is perfect. Every molecule is of the exact same size and shape where-
as normal oils have molecules of all sizes and shapes. Synthetics shouldn't be
kept in the car any longer than normal oils as they collect combustion by-
products and suffer additive break downs the same as normal oil. The perfect
"ball bearing" shape of the molecules make for better lubrication and easier
starting, particularly in cold climates. One thing about the identically shaped
molecules is that if one finds a hole to seep through, they all will. Normal
oils may have an odd shaped molecule that will plug the hole. What I'm
saying is synthetics can contribute to oil leaks more than normal oils. The old
wives tale that synthetics can go 15,000 miles is simply untrue. The cheapest
insurance you can give your car
is religiously changing the oil every 3,000 miles.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 97 06:33:59 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Re: Color Code
>Does anybody know the color-code for the gray area in the front and back of
the car?
>Andreas
I would add to this question, is it different for the matte and gloss finishes
used on the early cars vs the older cars?
James
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 97 08:46:00 PDT
From: Knut S Grimsrud Subject:
DMC mixture control setpoint info
The Bosch fuel injection system on the DMC uses a feedback control circuit to
control the fuel/air mixture. I believe the O2 sensor (lambda sensor) puts out
a voltage that the ECU receives, which the ECU then uses to control the duty
cycle of the frequency valve which adjusts the amount of fuel being injected.
In order to learn a little about the operation of the feedback control system, I
have been monitoring the O2 voltage produced during normal operation.
With a lean mixture the voltage is higher, and when enriched, the voltage is
lower (this is covered with some fairly nice diagrams in the Bosch Electronics
Handbook).
Now to my question -- the ECU adjusts the mixture according to the voltage
received in order to regulate the mixture to some desired setpoint. If the
voltage is above this setpoint (mixture too lean) more fuel is added by
increasing the duty cycle of the frequncy valve and visa versa. What is the
ECU O2 regulated setpoint? I could determine this experimentally, but if
some Bosch ASE mechanic out there happens to know the answer it would
save me a lot of experimental measurements.
Knut Grimsrud
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:29:23 -0400
From: Rob Hook
Subject: RE: Color-code
If you're referring to the paint on the bumpers, Ditzler #STO4282 is widely
accepted as the best match.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:01:45 -0400
From: Mike Griese
Subject: Craig tape deck flex circuits
Here's a brief update on the flex circuits. I have contacted a company in
Minneapolis called Century Circuits about creating a replacement part. I have
sent them a failed circuit along with a description of the application
and a tentative production volume of 200 to 300 parts. Century is supposed
to come back with a cost estimate in the next couple of weeks.
The new part should be a better component than the original, given that the
technology has changed over the past 20 years. I suspect that in order to make
this work, the entire production run would have to be purchased as a lot.
Included
in the part cost will be the non-recoverable engineering expense for designing
and
laying out the circuit, whatever tooling is required to diecut the substrates,
and
setup costs for the production run.
Michael A. Griese
Internet: magriese(AT)vnet.ibm.com
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2432
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:18:07 EST
From: ESSERM(AT)whitfield.st-louis.mo.us
Subject: DeLoreans in the St. Louis Area
Hello. I'm curious if there are DeLorean owners in the St. Louis Missouri or
more preferably the Chesterfield area. I'm curious as to how I would fit with
(and in) a DeLorean. I'd just like to see one in person (and maybe sit in it :D
Ha ha).
Andy Esser
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:37:49 -0500
From: Jameel Ahed
Subject: July 81 Radio For Sale!
Dear DML,
I have a working stock RADIO from my July 81. The digital works. The tapes
work (MAY NEED SOME CLEANING!) I didn't try the actual radio stations....
I remember hearing the news... So that was AM. I removed it before testing
the FM. I think it works... But I am sure the tape deck works and the AM
works... And the digital works. Please send me your best offers.
Jameel
- --
- -------------------------------------------------- Jameel Ahed owner of CyberTECH
Industries Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions HOMEPAGE:
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/ VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed(AT)uiuc.edu
- --------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:55:26 -0400 (EDT) From: RICHAJG(AT)aol.com
Subject: DML '81 CRAIG STEREO WITH SPEAKERS FOR SALE
I have a fully functional CRAIG stereo system complete with all four speakers
for sale. Everything works. It's for sale because I upgraded to a CD player
system (I know... I know... it's not stock so the value of my car just went
down).
Best Offer.
Rich Galichon
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #241
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