DeLorean Mailing List - 5/25/97
dmcnews-digest Sunday, May 25 1997 Volume 02 : Number 244
In this issue:
[none]
DML: Tires and Blower
[none]
DML: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
DML: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
DML: For Sale
DML: RE: blocked oil channels
DML: RE: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
DML: SHOCKS FOR LOWERED CAR
DML: FS: 1981 DeLorean 5-Speed, #1085, 3171 miles! =o
DML: Fuel Accumulator Removal
DML: RE: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 22:21:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Phillip124@aol.com
Subject: [none]
dmcnews@world.std.com
Subject: DML: Not much voltage produced at when idleing and/or when a/c
and lights are on.
Sender: dmcnews-approval@world.std.com
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@world.std.com
I was driving around a few days ago at night. I had the radio on and the
headlights on. As I was idleing, I noticed that all of the lights were a little bit
dimmer than when accelerating. The battery voltage gauge showed to voltage
to be right at the center line I think. I didn't have the a/c on at this time, but
one day I was driving with the a/c on and I saw the voltage gauge jumping
down below the midway mark when the engine fans tried to come on. I don't
think that the relay is good on the fans because they would only try to run for
about 1-2 seconds and the fan fail light flashed on for 1 second right after the
fans quit. This worried me because I was idleing with the a/c on and the
temperature gauge was showing the temp to be up to the first caution line. It
was hot outside as well, probably about 85 degrees.
Tell me what you all think. I think that the low voltage when idleing may be
normal on these cars and if so, can it be fixed or is it a problem.
Thank you,
Phillip
Vin # 7134
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 00:28:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Widdomaker@aol.com
Subject: DML: Tires and Blower
I have 2 problems:
1) I put 2 new Firestones on the rear. Now then car tends to wander from side
to side on the freeway??????
2) My fan (interior blower) quits on speeds 3 and 4 and I smell something
burning. I turn it to 1 or 2 for 15 secs or so and then it works fine?????????
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 12:48:06 -0400
From: Mike Substelny To: Subject: [none]
dmcnews@world.std.com
Subject: DML: Re: Phillip's Fan Failure
Sender: dmcnews-approval@world.std.com
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@world.std.com
Phillip said:
>I don't think that the relay is good on the fans because (the fans) would only
try to run for about 1-2 seconds and the fan fail light flashed on for 1 second
right after the fans quit.
It sounds like you might still have the original fan control module, which is
prone to problems. This is how to find out:
Open the relay compartment behind the passenger's seat. Look at the two
banks of relays closest forward by the passenger door. The fan control relay
socket is the onethe
farthest outboard in the row toward the front of the car. If the update has been
done THIS SOCKET WILL NOT CONTAIN A RELAY!
If you find a relay you've found the problem.
The top-notch way to solve it is to install a Fanzilla (ask someone at PJ Grady
to explain the benefits of this). Most people just have a bypass, which consists
of two fused jumpers. Both jumpers start at the front & center pin of the relay
socket. One goes to the left pin and one goes to the right. The other two pins
are empty.
The bypass works, but it disables the "Fan Fail" light. Since your "Fan Fail"
light came on I assume you don't have the bypass.
Good luck.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 12:22:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Starman
Subject: DML: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
Hi all,
Last week or so I told everyone that my water pump was shot. Rather than
risk driving it to Sussex to get it replaced I decided to do it myself. Working
through a bad stomach virus and no manual on Sunday, I was able to get the
intake manifold detached. On Monday the water pump and service manual
came from PJ Grady. Installing the new water pump really wasn't that bad. I
couldn't get the intake manifold COMPLETELY off, so I had a spary paint can
holding it up while I worked on the hoses. The rear hoses that are under the
intake manifold were tough to get off. The larger one wasn't too bad, but the
smaller one was practically epoxied on. After I finally got it off, I had to pop
on the new hoses. The large hose went on fine. I struggled with the small
hose for TWO HOURS. I got it on by carving around the lip of either end so
that it would get on. I was afraid of using grease to get it on better because I
didn't want to risk getting grease in the system.
I finally got it back together. It runs. It's dripping an ever so small drop from
somewhere that I can't find yet. There's another spot at a 22mm bolt near the
top of the water pump that seems to leak one drop a day. I haven't needed to
fill the system since last Saturday. The fans kick in just fine.
Now, the story doesn't have a completely happy ending. The bolt for the front
manifold where the throttle cover is attached seems to have stripped inside
the main manifold. I can get some use out of it, but I'm afraid to detatch it
again. Also, the car isn't idling as smoothly as it used to. It wavers all over the
place although it IS doing its damndest to stay at 775 RPM. How do I check
where this problem could be coming from? It idled rock solid at 775 RPM
before I worked on it.
Finally, how long does it take for the temp to rise after the car's been running
for a while? I threw plain water into the system because I didn't want to waste
$8 of coolant every time I needed to drain the system if necessary. The car gets
to 220 degrees in about 4 minutes. Note that the system is mainly full of water
now. Is this normal? Will regular coolant keep the temp lower longer? I'm
not too worried since the fans are keeping the temp low.
Besides the tiny problems, the car runs fine. I'm happy that I was able to save
a few hundred dollars in labor, but I'd never want to do it again. God help me
if I have to change the timing chains :P.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 12:22:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Starman
Subject: DML: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
Hi all,
Last week or so I told everyone that my water pump was shot. Rather than
risk driving it to Sussex to get it replaced I decided to do it myself. Working
through a bad stomach virus and no manual on Sunday, I was able to get the
intake manifold detached. On Monday the water pump and service manual
came from PJ Grady. Installing the new water pump really wasn't that bad. I
couldn't get the intake manifold COMPLETELY off, so I had a spary paint can
holding it up while I worked on the hoses. The rear hoses that are under the
intake manifold were tough to get off. The larger one wasn't too bad, but the
smaller one was practically epoxied on. After I finally got it off, I had to pop
on the new hoses. The large hose went on fine. I struggled with the small
hose for TWO HOURS. I got it on by carving around the lip of either end so
that it would get on. I was afraid of using grease to get it on better because I
didn't want to risk getting grease in the system.
I finally got it back together. It runs. It's dripping an ever so small drop from
somewhere that I can't find yet. There's another spot at a 22mm bolt near the
top of the water pump that seems to leak one drop a day. I haven't needed to
fill the system since last Saturday. The fans kick in just fine.
Now, the story doesn't have a completely happy ending. The bolt for the front
manifold where the throttle cover is attached seems to have stripped inside
the main manifold. I can get some use out of it, but I'm afraid to detatch it
again. Also, the car isn't idling as smoothly as it used to. It wavers all over the
place although it IS doing its damndest to stay at 775 RPM. How do I check
where this problem could be coming from? It idled rock solid at 775 RPM
before I worked on it.
Finally, how long does it take for the temp to rise after the car's been running
for a while? I threw plain water into the system because I didn't want to waste
$8 of coolant every time I needed to drain the system if necessary. The car gets
to 220 degrees in about 4 minutes. Note that the system is mainly full of water
now. Is this normal? Will regular coolant keep the temp lower longer? I'm
not too worried since the fans are keeping the temp low.
Besides the tiny problems, the car runs fine. I'm happy that I was able to save
a few hundred dollars in labor, but I'd never want to do it again. God help me
if I have to change the timing chains :P.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 10:27:16 +0000
From: James Nichols Subject: DML: For Sale
Another ad in the Dallas Morning News. The 903 area is east of Dallas.
'81 Delorean, Red, 5 Spd, $11,500, 903-882-4549
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 13:34:47 -0400
From: Rob Hook
Subject: DML: RE: blocked oil channels
Unfortunately, I don't have a set of manuals for the DeLorean yet. So let's
see...There are no removable camshaft bearings? That's odd. With those new
facts, the only possibilities are a wrong head gasket (as you said) or an actual
blockage inside a passage. If it is an actual blockage, putting a good amount
(~200 psi) of air pressure on it in the reverse direction should clear it out.
Running a bunch of oil through it in the reverse direction once the clog is out
would be a good idea too.
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 12:36:59 -0400
From: Rob Hook
Subject: DML: RE: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
Mike,
I'm in the middle of replacing my water pump right now. I have the old
pump off but I'm waiting for the replacement hoses to show up from DMC.
Why weren't you able to take the manifold all the way off? Mine seemed to
come off with no problem.
The idle problem you are having sounds like it could be a vacuum leak.
Did you replace the intake manifold o-rings?
- --Rob Hook
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 14:32:00 -0500
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01 Subject:
DML: SHOCKS FOR LOWERED CAR
When people ask me about the how-to's of lowering their car the one thing I
stress with them is to seriously consider changing the shocks on the front if
they do lower the car. The stock shock tends to bottom out too often because
the lowering has reduced the amount of travel distance the shock shaft has
available to it. I lowered mine a little over 2 inches and found that NAPA's
Gas Charged Deluxe HD # 94037 does a fine job. You need 1/2" bolts to replace
the just slightly larger (14mm I believe) bottom connection stock ones and
spacers (1/2" washers) to center the shock.
Good Luck - The Silver Fox
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 20:18:57 +0000
From: ian@inow.com (Ian)
Subject: DML: FS: 1981 DeLorean 5-Speed, #1085, 3171 miles! =o
Hello all,
I have had the pleasure of once again meeting a DMC-12 owner which I really
thought was cool. His DeLorean is for sale thought, and since he was such a
neat guy I told him I'd get the word out for him. Here are the vital's:
* 1981 DeLorean
* Black Leather
* 5-Speed Transmission
* Number 1085
* 3171 miles on the odometer
Price: $22,000 or best offer.
Call: Matt at (415) 967-3725
8:00-5:30 days.
Its in the front of a garage on California street... my head snapped so fast when
I saw the nose I stopped traffic. Pulling a quick U turn I parked and both my
friend and I began to gawk. Heaven on earth...
I waited until the shop guys were done talking to a customer and struck up a
conversation. To make a long story short his father had bought the DeLorean
new, had custom plates ("1 DMC81") put on it and then soon after stopped
driving it. A total of 3k miles and then storage. It now sits on its *original*
NCT's looking for a new home.
Matt, the son of the first (only) owner was smart. He pulled the fuel pump, so
it wont seize; drained the tank, so it wont fall apart; and re-set the torsion bars
so as not to damage them while in the down position for such a long time. (I
made the comment that I thought the torsion bars would never get 'saggy'
since they were cryogenic-ly set... am I right?)
He was so appreciative of a kid who wasen't there to jerk him around he let
me look through with the car. Both my friend and I got to sit in the car
(Wow! When those doors close they sound sooo awesome... "clunk!") and
open up the area behind the seats. (I never saw the battery box before) Plus a
bunch of other stuff. =)
I hope someone here is interested in it. He promised to let me 'watch' (ok, ok,
be his gofer) when he prep's the car if it is sold. I would *love* to be able to
really take some time and learn about the car. Please tell me if your going to
buy it... its not to close and It would really suck to have the car leave before I
can watch it be prepped.
If you have any questions on the car, just ask... I could go on for a whole lot
longer on it. If I only had the money!
Cheers,
Ian Haddock
DMC News Guy.
p.s. I would like to apologize to anyone who has sent email to me requesting
DMC News help / informtion. My DeLorean mail filter had been putting it in
a different folder and I had not seen it. To both GunkelWWW@AOL.COM
and Scott (samuelle@pacbell.net) I will get back to you right away.... I'm really
sorry.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 May 97 08:18:18 -0600
From: David Swingle Subject: DML: Fuel
Accumulator Removal
I've seen plenty of discussion on diagnosing the fuel accumulator problem
but not much on what a pain the the neck is it to change. I got it loose and
hanging by the feed hose, but no way could I remove the hose from the
accumulator. Since the hose was cracked in a bunch of places anyway, I
removed the hose and accumulator together. To remove the hose from the
top fitting, it is necessary to access the top of the fitting to hold it or you'll
kink the fuel line somewhere between the body and the frame - not a pretty
sight. This is accessed by removing the small junk tray at the rear of the
console, loosening the console itself, and removing an access panel the is
glued to the floor. I'm stuck for the moment since it's Memorial day weekend
and the hose seems to be a "Delorean Special" part, or at least something that
needs to be custom made.
I'm also now suspicious of the rest of the hoses in the fuel system - are they
all constructed of the same braided material covered with shiny black plastic?
Dave Swingle
dswingle@enteract.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 13:33:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Starman
Subject: DML: RE: * Water pump OR My week in Hell
>Mike,
>Why weren't you able to take the manifold all the way off? Mine seemed to
>come off with no problem.
When I say "all the way off" I mean to physically remove it in such a way
where I could put on the ground so to speak. I of course was able to lift it high
enough to get the work done. Not that it made any different since you don't
HAVE to completely remove it to get the work done.
>The idle problem you are having sounds like it could be a vacuum leak.
DDid you replace the intake manifold o-rings?
Absolutely. I replaced and checked anything that could be causing it. I have
this weekend to check it again so I will. I replaced all the washers, made sure
all the fuel injectors were put back on tightly. It's not a serious problem but
I'm sure that a bad mixture could cause problems down the line.
Mike
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V2 #244
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