From: eGroups Digest <dmcnews(AT)egroups.com> To: <digest(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: dmcnews digest Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 1:07 PM
eGroups Daily Digest: dmcnews has 28 new messages. Click here http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4668 to read them.
----------------------------------------------------------------- 4668. DMC Joe Re: WARNING ! Removing door and quarter panel 4669. luke.sandel(AT)cmich.edu Re: pictures in the vault 4670. Stian Birkeland Torsion Bar Adjustment Video? Yes please! 4671. Stian Birkeland AUTOGLYM Stainless Steel Polish 4672. Brandon Moody Re: Removing door and quarter panel 4673. Kemp, Nick (MN10) Re: heat shields 4674. saintern steering 4675. DMC Joe Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Video? Yes please! 4676. BRUCE BENSON Re: heat shields 4677. DMC Joe Re: heat shields 4678. Bob Brandys Re: Yellow Delorean 4679. William T Wilson Re: dmc northstar conversion 4680. William T Wilson Re: dmc northstar conversion 4681. Christopher Hawes More than one DMC-12??? 4682. Sean Jones Re: dmc northstar conversion 4683. DMC Joe Re: steering 4684. CBL302(AT)aol.com Re: WARNING ! Removing door and quarter panel 4685. cbl302(AT)msn.com Re: Removing door and quarter panel 4686. BondAtomic(AT)aol.com DeLorean Icons 4687. Dave Stragand KYB Gas Shocks? 4688. Ann & Ed Thompson Engine swaps in violation of EPA law? 4689. Watkins Family Interior Carpets 4690. CatfishEd(AT)aol.com Re: More than one DMC-12??? 4691. Jesse D. Sightler Re: dmc northstar conversion 4692. BurkePhoto(AT)aol.com Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment 4693. Lee Re: Engine swaps in violation of EPA law? 4694. Carson Clark Lukewarm Temp Starting 4695. wbennet1(AT)clarku.edu Photo in the vault... -----------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------ message 4668 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4668
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)att.net> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:37:49 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: WARNING ! Removing door and quarter panel Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
WARNING !
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe you are trying to describe the procedures for removing a DeLorean gullwing door, if this is true you have left out many details, some of which could cause serious injury to whoever is attempting this procedure.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: CBL302(AT)aol.com > To: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com > Subject: [DML] Re: Removing door and quarter panel > Date: Sunday, November 14, 1999 11:28 PM > > Remove the T panel,to access the wiring harness,then support the door fully open(using a 2x4)wedged tight between the door and the ground remove the strut,then as you remove the bolts holding the door on, have asstists,hold the door as all the hindge bolts are removed.NEVER remove or work on a Delorean door without it being wedged up,so as not to come down on you.The Delorean Q panel has what look like philips screws (they are not philips screws)under the door weatherstrip and the rocker panel and under the rear facia,and the rocker panel on the back of the Q panel,and of course you have to remove the engine compartment rear louver. > > Claude > 000570 >
------------------------------ message 4669 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4669
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:32:56 -0800 From: luke.sandel(AT)cmich.edu In-Reply-To: <B454DD4A.74%darryl(AT)techline.com> Subject: [DML] Re: pictures in the vault Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
darryl tinnerstet <darry-(AT)techline.com> wrote: original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews/?start=4663 > I just attempted to upload 4 pictures of my supercharged DeLorean in the > DMCNews vault, in a folder called "superchargedChevyDMC" but I'm not sure it > worked. They appear to be there, but I can't open them. Being the computer > novice that I am, can someone let me know if they are indeed there? (Not > everyone, please!) Thanks. > > -- > Darryl Tinnerstet
I found that the files had Macbinary headers, so I decoded/resaved/reuploaded them. The new files have a "-fixed" in their names.
-Luke
------------------------------ message 4670 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4670
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway(AT)hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 07:36:03 PST Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Torsion Bar Adjustment Video? Yes please! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello, I think I speak for many European owners who don't have the privelege of a DMC Service Center.
WE NEED A VIDEO ON HOW TO ADJUST THE TORSION BARS SO AS NOT TO RUIN OUR DELOREANS!
Now, who can make such a video? I know its a "dangerous" procedure in adjusting the torsion bars but again - the whole DeLorean community must be enlightened... I know what I would do. I would show such a video to my local mechanic and never try it myself.
We must be sure of what we're doing....And of course the legal disclaimer applies here..."you are responsible for your own actions.."
REMEMBER THE RULES: 1) Replace struts 2) If no improvement, then: 3) Adjust torsion bars
Best wishes Stian Birkeland NORWAY
______________________________________________________
------------------------------ message 4671 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4671
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway(AT)hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 07:53:30 PST Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] AUTOGLYM Stainless Steel Polish Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello, I just want to recommend the following stainless steel polish... AUTOGLYM METAL POLISH FOR STAINLESS STEEL!
This product is known for its good reputation of being the first choice for the cars of the British Royal Family.
(Of course, the legal disclaimer applies here too!)
Best wishes Stian Birkeland NORWAY
______________________________________________________
------------------------------ message 4672 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4672
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "Brandon Moody" <bsmoody(AT)kih.net> References: <19991115174028.CZXE26289(AT)delorean> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:49:12 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Removing door and quarter panel Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thats one way to remove the door, along with a few fingers and your head ! Not to mention the damage you will do to the car when everything lets loose ! Whoever was wanting to know this info please don't do it this way. I know everyone has differnt opinions on doing things but this will get someone hurt !
-Brandon
>From: CBL302(AT)aol.com >To: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com >Subject: [DML] Re: Removing door and quarter panel >Date: Sunday, November 14, 1999 11:28 PM
>Remove the T panel,to access the wiring harness,then support the door >fully open(using a 2x4)wedged tight between the door and the ground remove >the strut,then as you remove the bolts holding the door on, have >asstists,hold the door as all the hindge bolts are removed.NEVER remove or >work on a Delorean door without it being wedged up,so as not to come down >on you.The Delorean Q panel has what look like philips screws (they are not >philips screws)under the door weatherstrip and the rocker panel and under >the rear facia,and the rocker panel on the back of the Q panel,and of >course you have to remove the engine compartment rear louver.
Claude 000570
------------------------------ message 4673 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4673
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "Kemp, Nick (MN10)" <Nick.Kemp2(AT)HBC.Honeywell.com> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:33:43 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: heat shields Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
-----Original Message----- From: Darryl Tinnerstet [mailto:darryl(AT)techline.com]
... which had no provision for a heatshield. There were no brackets. They normally are a part of the lower muffler brackets, but this car definitely did not ever have them. ...
Response, I have #897 and have the heat shield. I thought all cars came from the factory with them.
NK
------------------------------ message 4674 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4674
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:14:56 -0500 From: saintern <saintern(AT)peri.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] steering Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Ok guys....does this sound familiar....I'm driving into a culdasac and as I make a tight turn turn to come around full circle it feels like my front wheels kinda " bump" around, like they were wobling or something...sounds weird I know but does this sound like any particular problem?...I'm going to inspect my steering components and see if there is any worn parts that could be suspect.........Plus, when I'm down shifting to slow down and take a turn the car will NEVER let me downshift into second....instead I have to chug it around in third......what could that possibly be? -Thanks, Donald Kazmark vin 3541
------------------------------ message 4675 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4675
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)att.net> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 18:12:38 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Video? Yes please! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Stian,
We have such a video. Because of the safety concerns you just mentioned we decided not to release it for distribution. Based on your request we will reevaluate our decision and consider making the video available through our on line store, which is scheduled to open Jan. 1, 2000.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: Stian Birkeland <dmc_norway(AT)hotmail.com> > > > Hello, I think I speak for many European owners who don't have the privelege > of a DMC Service Center. > > WE NEED A VIDEO ON HOW TO ADJUST THE TORSION BARS SO AS NOT TO RUIN OUR > DELOREANS! > > Now, who can make such a video? I know its a "dangerous" procedure in > adjusting the torsion bars but again - the whole DeLorean community must be > enlightened... I know what I would do. I would show such a video to my local > mechanic and never try it myself. > > We must be sure of what we're doing....And of course the legal disclaimer
> applies here..."you are responsible for your own actions.." > > REMEMBER THE RULES: > 1) Replace struts > 2) If no improvement, then: > 3) Adjust torsion bars > > Best wishes > Stian Birkeland > NORWAY
------------------------------ message 4676 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4676
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut(AT)worldnet.att.net> References: <B454D408.72%darryl(AT)techline.com> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:46:42 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: heat shields Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
My car isn't an early one (vin# 6938) but when I turbocharged it with a single turbo about 40,000 miles back I installed a glass pack muffler which is considerably smaller in diameter than the stock Walker muffler. I removed the heat sheild at that time and have had no ill effects. Admittedly, the smaller muffler dissipates the heat further from the engine than the stock muffler.
Bruce Benson
>this car definitely did not ever have them. I had no heat related > problems with it at all. I would like to know if any other owners > of very early cars were similarly un-equipped.
> Darryl Tinnerstet > McCleary, WA
------------------------------ message 4677 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4677
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)att.net> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:41:18 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: heat shields Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Apparently three is some confusion on this subject. Over the weekend a question was asked about an after market heat shield for the fuel pump. A few days earlier there were several posts about homemade and modified heatshields for the exhaust muffler. So to clear the air, yes all DeLoreans were fitted with exhaust muffler heat shields. No DeLoreans were fitted with fuel pump heat shields.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: Kemp, Nick (MN10) <Nick.Kemp2(AT)HBC.Honeywell.com> > > -----Original Message----- > From: Darryl Tinnerstet [mailto:darryl(AT)techline.com] > > ... which had no provision for a heatshield. There > were no brackets. They normally are a part of the lower muffler brackets, > but this car definitely did not ever have them. ... > > Response, > I have #897 and have the heat shield. I thought all cars came from the > factory with them. > > NK > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator(AT)dmcnews.com > > > eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews > http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications > > >
------------------------------ message 4678 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4678
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:27:43 -0600 From: Bob Brandys <oehcs(AT)flash.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <0.bde37e27.2560e12d(AT)aol.com> Subject: [DML] Re: Yellow Delorean Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The horsepower curves for the vehicles tested on dyno day
can be seen AT:
Horsepower page: http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/horsepower.html
The torque curves will be done later this week. Hopefully we will eventual be able to calculate all the 0-60 and quarter mile times.
Many thankx to Dave Swingle for posting the excel graphs to the DML.
Dr. Bob
------------------------------ message 4679 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4679
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:34:13 -0500 (EST) From: William T Wilson <fluffy(AT)snurgle.org> In-Reply-To: <19991114184426.8017.qmail(AT)hotmail.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: dmc northstar conversion Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On Sun, 14 Nov 1999, Richard Petrie wrote:
> I'm curious with the whole Northstar conversion scenario, is it advisable?
Ooh, engine swaps, my favorite topic :}
> Meaning, was the Delorean chassis designed to handle that kind of > power/torque? I've heard nightmare stories of similar converstions, > and just wanted some feedback as to the safety involved ;)
If you've heard nightmare stories of DeLorean conversions, I'd like to hear them... it would make a good addition to the collective wisdom of the list.
I've heard of Buick and Chevy V6s, the Northstar V8, a Mazda 13B Wankel, and a Rover V8 all being successfully transplanted into the DeLorean. All make more power than the PRV and none of these require any substantive chassis or body modifications. It is not recommended to do a swap with the auto trans because it is not a particularly strong unit. "Conventional wisdom" is that 200 HP is as much power as it will handle. However, if you desire an automatic transmission, there are modern automatics available which can handle the power of a new engine. The 5-speed transmission (like many European transmission of the era) is much stronger than the emissions-controlled engines they were mated to in the United States and should handle 300 HP without trouble, or even more if you drive it gently.
------------------------------ message 4680 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4680
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:39:19 -0500 (EST) From: William T Wilson <fluffy(AT)snurgle.org> In-Reply-To: <382F0C84.DD13A133(AT)delorean.co.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: dmc northstar conversion Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On Sun, 14 Nov 1999, Martin Gutkowski wrote:
> "As far as strength, the original frame would handle 130 FtLbs for > torque in the engine compartment, the new frame will handle 310 > FtLbs of torque in the engine compartment with a calculated > correspondence throughout the frame."
No offense to Bryan, but I believe this piece of information on his web site is wrong. The *stock* DeLorean engine produces more than 150 ft.lbs of torque and the turbos produce even more, so obviously the frame is stronger than that. Many people have done swaps and, in the case when something breaks, it is usually the transmission. I've not heard of anyone ever breaking the frame except as a result of damage or rust.
------------------------------ message 4681 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4681
From: "Christopher Hawes" <cmhdevelopment(AT)hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 23:15:39 GMT Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] More than one DMC-12??? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I was wondering why some of you on the list have owned more than one car. For example Darryl has owned 3 DMC's.
Did they get written off????
Chris
----Original Message Follows----
My third DeLorean, which I drove for about 5 years almost daily, was a very early car (VIN 923 I think) which had no provision for a heatshield. There were no brackets. They normally are a part of the lower muffler brackets, but this car definitely did not ever have them. I had no heat related problems with it at all. Please note that I am NOT advocating that anyone leave their heat shield off. But I would like to know if any other owners of very early cars were similarly un-equipped.
Darryl Tinnerstet McCleary, WA
______________________________________________________
------------------------------ message 4682 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4682
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:55:50 -0500 From: Sean Jones <shain(AT)noln.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <19991115042852.51278.qmail(AT)hotmail.com> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: dmc northstar conversion Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hello,
See the one thing i heard too is that it needs more then that. Because the northstar computer, and transmission computer have to be in sink, or the motor won't even start or operate properly. But i could be wrong.
- Shain
Richard Cutter wrote:
> Greetings... > > The Northstar is produced only as an automatic by G/M but its like any > engine can be converted to manual use with proper flywheel and clutch. > > Rich Cutter > # 5467 - NS > > >From: Sean Jones <shain(AT)noln.com> > >Reply-To: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com > >To: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com > >Subject: [DML] Re: dmc northstar conversion > >Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:27:29 -0500 > > > >Hello, > > > >I thought all northstar motors and conversion had to be automatic. > > > >- Shain > > > > ______________________________________________________ > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator(AT)dmcnews.com > > eGroups.com Home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews/ > http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
------------------------------ message 4683 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4683
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE(AT)att.net> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 20:28:48 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: steering Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
When you turn you steering wheel to the full lock position either left or right the inside wall or your tires rubs against the front anti-roll bar. To prevent this simply back off the steering wheel slightly to eliminate the noise.
I don't understand you second problem. Are you describing a clutch / transmission problem or an acceleration problem.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe(AT)att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: saintern <saintern(AT)peri.com> > To: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com > Subject: [DML] steering > Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 4:14 PM > > Ok guys....does this sound familiar....I'm driving into a culdasac and > as I make a tight turn turn to come around full circle it feels like my > front wheels kinda " bump" around, like they were wobling or > something...sounds weird I know but does this sound like any particular > problem?...I'm going to inspect my steering components and see if there > is any worn parts that could be suspect.........Plus, when I'm down > shifting to slow down and take a turn the car will NEVER let me > downshift into second....instead I have to chug it around in > third......what could that possibly be? > -Thanks, > Donald Kazmark > vin 3541 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator(AT)dmcnews.com > > -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar! > -- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=dmcnews&m=1 >
------------------------------ message 4684 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4684
From: CBL302(AT)aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 21:53:53 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: WARNING ! Removing door and quarter panel Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
That is the way I have removed many a Delorean door with out any problems,I repeat you DO NOT have to remove the torsion bars,AS long as you have the door fully open and supported,by 2x4 and assistants.Also I just checked out one of my Delorean restoration projects and the torsion bars are still in place,WITH the doors removed,as I said Just DO NOT bump into the torsion bars with any tools,or with the door,also if you want to remove the torsion bar,do it with the door OPEN and fully supported,remember that the pressure is lessened when the door is open.When removing the torsion bars be careful that you have at least two assistants to help you,one to hold the door in the fully open position and one to hold the torque on the torsion bar as you remove the two bolts that hold the torsion bar bracket and he relieves some of the torque on the torsion bar,then reinstall the bracket and bolts and then repeat the above process,untill all pressure is removed from the torsion bar.Caution! ! if not done correct there is a possibility of shattering the rear window and damage to the T panel.
Claude 000570
------------------------------ message 4685 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4685
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 21:14:09 -0800 From: cbl302(AT)msn.com In-Reply-To: <000f01bf2f9a$1cd2a860$47abd1d1(AT)kih.net> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: Removing door and quarter panel Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain
"brandon moody" <bsmood-(AT)kih.net> wrote: original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews/?start=4672 > > Thats one way to remove the door, along with a few > fingers and your head ! Not to mention the damage you > will do to the car when everything lets loose ! Whoever > was wanting to know this info please don't do it this way. > I know everyone has differnt opinions on doing things but > this will get someone hurt ! > > -Brandon > I just relized what you are thinking,NO NO NO,not the bolts holding the hindges to the black body,but the 4 BOLTS (horizontal) going thru the swiwel part of the hindge holding the door to the hindge,sorry about the confusion,Yes I can see your point if THE hindges were unbolted intact from the black body with the torsion bar still attached,you would have some very serious problems.
Claude 000570 > > > >From: CBL302(AT)aol.com > >To: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com > >Subject: [DML] Re: Removing door and quarter panel > >Date: Sunday, November 14, 1999 11:28 PM > > >Remove the T panel,to access the wiring harness,then support the door > >fully open(using a 2x4)wedged tight between the door and the ground remove > >the strut,then as you remove the bolts holding the door on, have > >asstists,hold the door as all the hindge bolts are removed.NEVER remove or > >work on a Delorean door without it being wedged up,so as not to come down > >on you.The Delorean Q panel has what look like philips screws (they are not > >philips screws)under the door weatherstrip and the rocker panel and under > >the rear facia,and the rocker panel on the back of the Q panel,and of > >course you have to remove the engine compartment rear louver. > > Claude > 000570 > > > >
------------------------------ message 4686 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4686
From: BondAtomic(AT)aol.com Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 00:57:56 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] DeLorean Icons Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Dear Members,
If anyone has an Icon of a DeLorean, any kind of one, please send it to me in the form of a file. Thanks!
John Feldman
------------------------------ message 4687 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4687
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 00:33:48 -0500 From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand(AT)ketchum.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] KYB Gas Shocks? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi All,
With my Disassembled D I received four brand new KYB shocks. These were probably purchased around 1989 or so, and are visibly a close match for the old shocks. The numbers are:
Front: KG 4605A Rear: KG 9116
Does anyone know if these are/ever were proper shocks for a D, or did the previous owner most likely just "match 'em up" at his local parts store? I checked the KYB web site, but they have no reference to the D, nor to these particular shocks. Any leads would be appreciated!
-Dave Stragand, #5927 dave.stragand(AT)ketchum.com "The Blair De Lorean Project" Web Page http://www.forwardlook.net/DMC
------------------------------ message 4688 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4688
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:44:21 -0500 From: Ann & Ed Thompson <RappaRivaRat(AT)erols.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <Pine.LNX.4.04.9911151235370.12110-100000(AT)benatar.snurgle.org> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Engine swaps in violation of EPA law? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Many years ago I wanted to replace the anemic 260 CID engine in my 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the Olds version of the 350 CID, exterior block size the exact size of the 260, the only differences being bore and stroke, and valve and valve port sizes, so no problem fitting.
BUT, as I pursued the idea I found that at least by 1980 all passenger cars (trucks were exempt for a while) sold in the US were required to be tested and certified by EPA standards for emissions for any particular engine and transmission configuration. Not EVERY car had to be tested, but a class representation had to be. According to EPA law, that configuration can NOT be altered in ANY way (even including exhaust) without further EPA testing and certification. Every reputable mechanic I questioned about this engine swap refused to do it because they said it was in violation of EPA law without the required EPA testing and recertification (at least here in Virginia).
So, would someone please explain how the Northstar, et al, swaps are legally done? Here in Virginia we have a mandatory state inspection and to pass the inspection the engine/transmission MUST be entirely original, without any modification according EPA standards of testing for that particular car's original configuration, even including the exhaust system. For example, you cannot even legally install dual exhausts on a car that originally had a single exhaust system, even if you install dual catalytic converters. Unless, of course, you are is willing to fork out thousands of dollars to have the car retested AND certified by the EPA to establish new EPA specs. Local and/or state regulations for emissions testing ARE NOT necessarily the same as EPA testing and certification. EPA certification includes applying a EPA label in the engine compartment for that car's EPA approved configuration, not simply testing exhaust emissions.
BTW, for Bryan, according to DMC's original specs, the base engine torque was established to be 160 lb-ft (AT) 2750 rpm, "Road & Track" and some others claimed 162 lb-ft (AT) 2750 rpm, yet another found 173 lb-ft (AT) 3000 rpm.
Regards, Ed Thompson (#6419 since 1982) Midlothian, VA
------------------------------ message 4689 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4689
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 09:33:48 -0500 From: Watkins Family <watbmv(AT)megalink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Interior Carpets Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
While investigating some cosmetic fixes I called DMC Houston yesterday and Rob this past summer, it seems that the passenger side door sill carpet for the grey interior car in unavailable. The previous owner of my car needed to replace the carpet but could only get the dark grey for the black interior.
I'm looking for the correct color door sill carpet with the attached leatherette door dressing. DMC mentioned they may be getting some manufactured but not right away. Does anyone have this item for sale from a parts car? When available it goes new for $101.62. If I can't locate one I may simply change the other side to match or hope that DMC will be able to get some manufactured. If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
Tom #5732
------------------------------ message 4690 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4690
From: CatfishEd(AT)aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:18:21 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: More than one DMC-12??? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
My D is an 81 with vin# 925 and I don't see a heat shield.
------------------------------ message 4691 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4691
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 23:31:43 -0500 From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <jess(AT)activated.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <Pine.LNX.4.04.9911151227100.12110-100000(AT)benatar.snurgle.org> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: dmc northstar conversion Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
William T Wilson wrote:
> I've heard of Buick and Chevy V6s, the Northstar V8, a Mazda 13B Wankel,
Do you have any more information on the Wankel conversion? I've always thought that the Wankel was somehow the perfect engine conversion for a D due to its small size, and weight, but excellent pickup, but have never actually heard of it being done. It would be very interesting to hear about the performance from such a beast. :)
------- Jess http://www.biddin.com/delorean/ VIN#5220 Who thinks his RX7 is just swell. :)
------------------------------ message 4692 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4692
From: BurkePhoto(AT)aol.com Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:29:38 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The torsion bar adjustment was thoroughly outlined in a back issue of Delorean World. I used this as a guide to replace a torsion bar that spontaneously fractured on my Delorean. I'll try to find the issue.
Burke
------------------------------ message 4693 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4693
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:33:40 -0800 From: Lee <support(AT)radiance.com> In-Reply-To: <38315FB5.C4E2E7FF(AT)erols.com> References: <Pine.LNX.4.04.9911151235370.12110-100000(AT)benatar.snurgle.org> Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Re: Engine swaps in violation of EPA law? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
At 08:44 AM 11/16/99 -0500, you wrote: >Many years ago I wanted to replace the anemic 260 CID engine in my
Hi Ed,
Well every state is different so I could not begin to comment on your state, But in California it's much different. The certifications follow the engine first then body style. You can scratch build a car in any configuration you like as long as it can pass a bunch of test and inspections. SMOG is one of them, and unless some one else has more recent information, the "car" if home built must meet or exceed the General state wide SMOG Levels and under go a visual inspection for completeness. If home built they mostly look for clean neat arrangement in the engine compartment. So you can mix and match any engine parts you like as long as your creation can meet the various requirements. But then this is California!
The other part of this is the ownership follows the Chassis ID (VIN) while SMOG follows the engine.
There was a case where a guy got a junk VW, paid for it got the title, kited it out as a Porsha 911 with all the bells and stuff. Registered it and was cursing down the High Way one day and gets pulled over for speeding. On checking the VIN the CHP finds it listed as stolen! The guy is arrested and jailed, the Porsha/VW impounded.
The guy convinces a judge he purchased the chassis, presents the title, New title, registration, insurance, and gets let out of jail. His Porsha/VW is returned to the original owner of the VW, who was always the legal owner.
Be sure that your DMC VIN is not listed as stolen before putting a VW engine in it!
Lee
support(AT)radiance.com
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------------------------------ message 4694 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4694
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:47:54 -0800 (PST) From: Carson Clark <cnsandog(AT)yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Lukewarm Temp Starting Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I have talked with sweatyeddie about this and his car is having the same problem...
If my cars temperature drops but doesnt cool off entirely the car will not start-- it will turn over but not start. I have had someone tell me that it could be a "vapor lock". And eddie said that if you plug the 'grey' plug into the 'blue' plug, which forces gas into the system, it starts every time...I have not personally done that yet. I talked with Don about it from DMC and he said it could be the fuel system could be starved for fuel.
Is this a common problem? I know that most of you are probably in cold weather already, but here in S. CAL it is still warm..;-) Any of you Mr. Goodwrenches got a fix for us?
thanks,
===== C
VIN 16367 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
------------------------------ message 4695 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=4695
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 09:15:40 -0800 From: wbennet1(AT)clarku.edu X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Subject: [DML] Photo in the vault... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain
I was just looking in the vault, and I saw a pic titled d=mc2. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that a Vector M12? It even has the Vector logo on the spoiler. Besides, I don't think that I much like the design of it... -Bill- (no VIN yet)
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