Back to DeLorean Mailing List Page.From: eGroups Digest <dmcnews@egroups.com> To: <digest@dmcnews.com> Subject: dmcnews digest Date: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 1:19 PM
eGroups Daily Digest: dmcnews has 38 new messages. Click here http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5047 to read them.
----------------------------------------------------------------- 5047. Carson Clark Re: CUSTOMIZING THE DELOREAN 5048. Watkins Family RHD picture on carrier 5049. CBL302@aol.com Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5050. DMC83in99@aol.com Re: speakers 5051. Chris Parnham Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5052. Marc A Levy Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5053. BurkePhoto@aol.com Re: door panel removal 5054. stephen.liggett@uc.edu Re: Blown Ignition Coil 5055. NJP548@aol.com Re: something easy 5056. Danrc30 Re: something easy 5057. Phil DeLorean around here? 5058. Chip Shirek Re: lost delorean may find light 5059. BRUCE BENSON Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight. 5060. Jan van de Wouw Re: Rear-Foglights (was: UK DMC Registration?) 5061. Jan van de Wouw Custom Rear-Foglights (addition) 5062. Drivestainless@aol.com DeLorean wont turn over 5063. Dave Swingle Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight 5064. Danrc30 Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5065. Jesse D. Sightler Re: door panel removal 5066. UNCLEUMP@aol.com Re: Blown Ignition Coil 5067. DMC Joe Re: Removing fuel pump 5068. Mark Noeltner Re: DeLorean wont turn over 5069. Travis Graham Re: speakers 5070. Paul Gress Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight. 5071. DMC Joe Re: Blown Ignition Coil 5072. DMC Joe Re: something easy 5073. DMC Joe Re: speakers 5074. DMC Joe Re: lost delorean may find light 5075. Martin Gutkowski Re: United Kingdom DMC Registration? 5076. Martin Gutkowski Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5077. john_geuley@hp.com Steering Rack Origin ? 5078. Mike03062@aol.com Re: lost delorean may find light 5079. CBL302@aol.com Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5080. Nick Ryan Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE 5081. CBL302@aol.com Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight. 5082. Robert Brandys Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame 5083. Robert Brandys Re: Blown Ignition Coil 5084. David Silek Battery Light -----------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------ message 5047 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5047
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:54:34 -0800 (PST) From: Carson Clark <cnsandog@yahoo.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: CUSTOMIZING THE DELOREAN MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Has anyone thought of contacting the company who made the leather for the DMC? Bridge of Weir.
Are they still in business? It would be great if you could buy some leather seat covers from them to cover the seats!
Just a thought.....
C
vin 16367
--- Luke Sandel <luke.sandel@cmich.edu> wrote: > > or anything but little things. i am personaly putting custom seat > > covers in my d. the original factory seat covers are in great > shape, > > On the thread of seat covers, has anyone found fitted seat covers > besides the > sheepskin covers? The seat cover style that I thought would best > match > the > DeLorean's appearance are the Wet Okole (www.wetokole.com) seat > covers, > but > they don't make any for the D. I emailed them about creating a set > for > a bulk > order, but I didn't get any response. > > So, has anybody found any alternatives? I like the look of the > original leather seats, but they seem too prone to wear. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@dmcnews.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault > -- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/dmcnews/?m=1 > > >
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place. Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
------------------------------ message 5048 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5048
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:01:44 -0500 From: Watkins Family <watbmv@megalink.net> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] RHD picture on carrier MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
One of the most frequent goofs that printers make when printing pictures in publications is printing them backwards. This is such a common error that I've even seen photo's in Star Trek actors own biography books with the trek insignia on the shirts on the wrong side because some editor or layout person didn't notice it.
I would imagine that this could be a logical explaination for the seemingly reversed GRP bodies. A picture doesn't always say a thousand words, especially in our world of digital manipulation and simple goofs like printing a photo backwards. If anyone can clarity this please do.
Tom #5732
------------------------------ message 5049 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5049
From: CBL302@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:05:41 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
That is what I thought of first,but if you magnify the picture you will see that the ceiling and lights match up with the black area of the picture,and besides why would the factory deliberty confuse a customer.
Claude 000570
------------------------------ message 5050 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5050
From: DMC83in99@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:34:23 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: speakers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Erik, it's not fun at all. Better than me try to explain it, I found this link from Luke Sandel's page. It tells you all you need to know, and is what I used for mine.
http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/repair/thgraham_projects/speake r.html
Scott #16738
------------------------------ message 5051 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5051
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@cwcom.net> References: <0.34f07ae9.25737ce1@aol.com> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:29:15 -0000 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Dear Claud,
I cant find the picture to wich you refer, however, could it be one where the photo/negative was printed backwards? The photo of my car in "Classic Cars" March 99, page 82, was..this made my RHD look like a LHD!
All I can say is that I have seen 9 RHD cars at close quarters and none had the position of the petrol filler area changed over, indeed both my Auto's, have 2 brake servos fitted, one under the spare wheel and one in the engine bay, the only difference is the "header tank" for the brakes in on long pipes, on one car under the spare wheel,and the other one right next to the fuel filler.
Chris Parnham
----- Original Message ----- From: <CBL302@aol.com> To: <dmcnews@egroups.com> Sent: 29 November 1999 06:53 Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE
> In a message dated 11/26/99 9:43:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, > webmaster@delorean.co.uk writes: > > << > Definitely. To reiterate from above: ALL RHD CARS ARE CONVERSIONS. The > body-tub was never designed to take a RHD version. Check for the hole from > the > steering column on the left, for eg. >> > > That is weird,because if you look in the in the Black Brochure,(the one with > the fold-outs)you will see a picture of a Black body on a tellis carrier that > IS a right hard drive,with the gas fill bump out (where the gas cap goes) on > what is the passenger side,you could even make out the big rubber gas fill > hose that goes to the gas tank.THAT is absolute proof that RHD DRIVE black > grp bodies were made,and right hand cars were made at the DMC factory.One > picture says a thousand words. > > Claude > 000570 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@dmcnews.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar! > -- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=dmcnews&m=1 > >
------------------------------ message 5052 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5052
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:17:12 -0500 From: Marc A Levy <malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com> References: <81udn5$q85f@eGroups.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have not looked at the picture myself, but Calude claims that the gas fill bump out is on what would be the passenger side of a RHD car.. If it were that the negative were reversed, then the gas bump would be on the driver side..
The point is, if the gas fill bump and steering cutout are on opposite sides, then the picture is not of a "standard" delorean.
Right?
> > cbl30-@aol.com wrote: > original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews/?start=5040 > > That is weird,because if you look in the in the Black Brochure,(the > one with > > the fold-outs)you will see a picture of a Black body on a tellis > carrier that > > IS a right hard drive,with the gas fill bump out (where the gas cap > goes) on > > what is the passenger side,you could even make out the big rubber gas > fill > > hose that goes to the gas tank.THAT is absolute proof that RHD DRIVE > black > > grp bodies were made,and right hand cars were made at the DMC > factory.One > > picture says a thousand words. > > > > Claude > > 000570
Danrc30 wrote: > > Claude, > I see the picture you are talking about. But don't you think that it just > could be a printing error in that they printed the picture backwards? (I <SNIP>
James Espey wrote: > All it says is that some guy at the printer flipped the negative when > the color separation was made - it's an easy mistake, and having had > worked in the printing industry for many years - it happens all the > time... >
------------------------------ message 5053 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5053
From: BurkePhoto@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:37:27 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: door panel removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In a message dated 11/29/99 1:10:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, sheilaridez@hotmail.com writes:
<< I would like to know the proper way of taking apart the interior panel of the door first. >>
Mike,
I've removed the door panels, both sides, more than once. I believe I used the shop manual as a reference (the usual fir tree fasteners).
One caution, the stainless steel interior is extremely sharp. WEAR GLOVES!
Burke
------------------------------ message 5054 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5054
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:43:55 -0800 From: stephen.liggett@uc.edu In-Reply-To: <383BE8B0.5116@flash.net> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Blown Ignition Coil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
robert brandys <oehc-@flash.net> wrote: original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews/?start=4906 > Dear Uncle, > > I find your coil failure to be very interesting. During dyno testing of > the DeLoreans all but one showed coil problems between 4700 and 5000 > rpm. Did you have any high rpm operational problems, prior to this > failure? > > Bob
I wonder if there is a better coil that can be used instead of the usual one?
Steve Liggett
------------------------------ message 5055 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5055
From: NJP548@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:52:41 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: something easy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hey Mike,
I've heard this problem a lot of times on the DML, I believe the "quick fix" solution to this is to switch the blue plug connected to the cold start valve with the black plug on the ....i forget the name of it that is right near it in the engine compartment this will force gas into the engine and make it start. You are having a "hot start" problem. And I remember hearing from DMC Joe that the "correct" solution to this is to replace the Fuel Accumulator, am I right? DMCJoe?
Thanks a lot, Nick VIN#1852....complete tear-down and rebuild DeLorean now...wish me luck!
------------------------------ message 5056 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5056
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@hotmail.com> References: <0.d4e3da65.25740674@aol.com> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:38:33 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: something easy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Sounds like the fuel accumulator to me. They're not too expensive to buy, but putting it in is time consuming. I got mine from P.J. Grady in one day. The car has worked fine since.
---Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: <Police6627@aol.com> To: <dmcnews@egroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 11:40 AM Subject: [DML] something easy
> need some cheap advise, here is the problem: > > i have an 82 automatic delorean that normally runs fine. lately after a small > drive i turn if off and it will not restart for about five minutes. it turns > over fine but just turns and turns and then about five minutes later i come > back and it starts fine. also when it idles the engine noise goes up and down > for about three minutes then maintaines a happy medium. any suggestions.... > > mike leising > sugarland, tx vin 11288 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@dmcnews.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar! > -- http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=dmcnews&m=1 > > >
------------------------------ message 5057 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5057
From: "Phil" <delorean@usfamily.net> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:34:33 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] DeLorean around here? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF3A87.9DF469E0" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I was wondering if anyone owns a DeLorean in the twin-cities area? I'v= e been living here for a year now, and haven't seen a "D" except in Rogers,= MN in the Ellingston Car Museum. A friend saw one yesterday at Midway For= d over in Roseville, and maybe he/she is on this mailing list. If anyone h= as a DMC around here, please contact me, I would like to meet you
-Phil philf@ssesco.com
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" http-equiv=3DContent-Type= > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I was wondering if anyo= ne owns a =
DeLorean in the twin-cities area? I've been living here for a year no= w, =
and haven't seen a "D" except in Rogers, MN in the Ellingston Car Museum.&n= bsp; =
A friend saw one yesterday at Midway Ford over in Roseville, and maybe= =
he/she is on this mailing list. If anyone has a DMC around here, plea= se =
contact me, I would like to meet you</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Phil<BR><A =
href=3D"mailto:philf@ssesco.com">philf@ssesco.com</A></FONT></DIV>
</body></html>
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------------------------------ message 5058 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5058
From: "Chip Shirek" <cshirek@mail.deipro.com> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:24:59 -0700 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: lost delorean may find light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Well heres an interesting story. I am not going to side on the sellers side or any prospective buyers, i am simply providing information.
Over the weekend my dad went down to Barstow, California where he was
getting a cell phone installed in his truck or something. When he was there
in the shop, the guy began telling my dad how he bought a car off some guy
that he knew and was interested in selling the thing cause he has no time
for it. The car had been in a wreck but could easily salvageable if given
the proper attention. My dad was kinda curious so the guy took my dad in
the back storage room where the car sat. to my pops suprise, he saw a
delorean! It had been in a accident so a new fiberglass peice would have to
be made for it and probably new panels in the front. Me personally, i have
no idea how much these parts would cost. The guy told my dad that he had
gotten a quote of 4 grad to fix the front. That dowsn't necessarly sound so
right to me though. i would have thought it would have been a little less. I
dont have the vin # on me (i left it in my delorean!) but suprisingly this
car is in pretty good condition other then that!
My dad called me from the shop after telling the guy that his son had a
delorean. so of course i wanted to see it so i drove down there. So heres
the scoop.
-The car has only 4000 original miles on it.
-Except for the fact that the headliner would have to be re-glued, or
replaced
the interior is in great condition.
-The rear sunshade would have to be replaced too.
-the car runs
-the rest of the car looks pretty much untouched.
- the car was hit in the front left.
-the wheel are perfect along with new centercaps and such as well as new
struts.
now heres the weird part. no one is really sure where he got the thing. he told us that he bought it off someone else but from what i hear from my dad is that the previous owner had bought it from a junk yard and that it had been declared as totaled. so he say that if it was to be rebuilt, then it would say SALVAGE in the insurance. Would this really be a problem? I know i have seen other cars out there that had been wrecked and restored and those persons were able to get there car insured.
another thing is that i am not sure of any upgrades that have been performed on the car. i dont even know if it has any at all! it could still need more work in just the upgrades! the shop guy had a hard time taking that in. He think that buy replacing the front end and fixing back up will make it totally original thus makeing it worth 20 K +! i told him not to hold his breath. He said that he had talked to don and don said the car was only worth a few grand the way it is, but the shop guy for some reason still thinks he is going to get 9 grand for the car. I told my dad that if the car was accuired for the right price it might be worth fixing up. HE says that if he doesn't get at least 9 hes going to fix it. from what i gather, this guy doesn't know the first thing about a delorean. hes kinda a weird, salesman type of guy and i don't thing he really wants to keep it. I would believe that if the right amount was offered some one might be able to score a cheap, project delorean.
is there anybody out there even remotely interested in buying this thing? i have more information at home and i could probably get pictures but for serious inquirys only. If any, you can write me at home at rubberneck1@home.com
thanx. pass the word if you will. this is just a letter to keep the delorean comunity informed. there might be just the person out there looking for just this kind of deal. the again. there might not.
chip vin # 1230
------------------------------ message 5059 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5059
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@worldnet.att.net> References: <81t13b$jena@eGroups.com> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:31 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> full chemical or hot galvanizing dip (Bruce >Benson had this done many > years ago).
>Dave Swingle
Wasn't me! I wrote the original "Rust Never Sleeps' article for DeLOREAN WORLD. A couple of years later another fellow, his name escapes me, wrote "Rust Never Sleeps, Part II" for the same magazine. He was the one who had the frame galvanized.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------ message 5060 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5060
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:09:37 -0800 From: "Jan van de Wouw" <jan@vdwouw.demon.nl> In-Reply-To: <3841B516.3FA9138A@connect-2.co.uk> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Rear-Foglights (was: UK DMC Registration?) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Sun, 28 Nov 1999 23:04:54 Martin Gutkowski <dmc.12@connect-2.co.uk> wrote:
> Fogs You must have a rear fog. I cut > the rear pair to make two rear lights - I think an additional fog > looks messy.
I agree,
> Purists would argue for changing rear > intensity of the pair at the back - I think this is best but I did not > have time.I fitted an internal switch.
I don't know exactly what you mean, but I might have a solution, quite low-cost and reliable (when done wel). I installed this system in a Volkswagen Golf (Rabbit in the US) for a friend who wanted to convert his fogs into extra brakes (so he would have 4 brakes), without losing the fogs...
This actually isn't that hard: all I did was install a couple of heavy Diodes that could easily work about 5 Amps (that's the current for a 21Watts bulb + a safety-margin) I simply put the diode between both plusses of Brake and Fog, with the Cathode connected to the Fog-side. Since a Diode is comparable to an electronic "one-way-valve" it allows current to run to both brake-lights, when power is switched to the fog-light only one bulb (the inner- or the outer-one, that's your choice) gets current because of the diode!
When I firts put this together I forgot ONE thing: a Diode has a voltage-drop of about 0.7Volts; so the "non-fog"-brake-light was a bit less bright... This was easily solved by adding an extra Diode in the Brake-light-line, so both bulbs would get the same voltage again.
I've made up a couple of scetches to explain what I mean, I'll put them in the Vault for anyone who's interested. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to mail me privately at Jan@vdWouw.Demon.nl
Greetings from the Netherlands,
JAN van de Wouw, Thinik Different... Use a Mac... Live the Dream... Drive a DeLorean...
'87 Ford Escort IV 1.6D for now...
------------------------------ message 5061 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5061
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:23:43 -0800 From: "Jan van de Wouw" <jan@vdwouw.demon.nl> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Custom Rear-Foglights (addition) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Concerning my earlier post concerning some cusom wiring for Rear-Fog-lights:
I've Just posted the explaining pictures in the Vault; there's a folder called "Custom Rear-Foglight-wiring" in which I've put them.
When I checked I saw one slight mistake: I live in the Netherlands, we drive on the right, so my drawing of the taillight-cluster is LHD-based.
If you decide to use my wiring in the UK (or Australia), all you have to do is switch the power-wire for the Fog-light to the right Taillight. When you want the configuration with two Fog-lights -of which I don'y know if that's legal in the UK- you don't hav to change anything, just add the blue wire...
Succes and regards,
JAN van de Wouw Think Different... Live the Dream...
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + + + Visit my website (under construction) at: + + http://go.to/TheD-files + + + ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
------------------------------ message 5062 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5062
From: Drivestainless@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:52:59 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] DeLorean wont turn over MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello,
I went out to start my 81 5 speed DeLorean today and the starter wouldnt
budge.( it has sat for 5 months) I put a brand new battery in it today but I
just here a clicking sound coming from behind the pasenger seat when I turn
the key. no power is getting to the starter. What could be the problem?
The electronics behind the seat look a little corroded. I would like to get
it started before it is put away for the winter. I would feel bad the whole
winter if I knew I had a non-running DMC.
thanks
Mark
------------------------------ message 5063 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5063
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@enteract.com> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 18:50:36 -0600 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Oops - Sorry - that's waht I get for trusting my memory. It was Mike Roberts that wrote Part II. Bruce wrote Part 1. This was Part II. Copies of DeLorean World are available (to members) from the DeLorean Owner's Association
Dave
> full chemical or hot galvanizing dip (Bruce >Benson had this done many > years ago).
Wasn't me! I wrote the original "Rust Never Sleeps' article for DeLOREAN WORLD. A couple of years later another fellow, his name escapes me, wrote "Rust Never Sleeps, Part II" for the same magazine. He was the one who had the frame galvanized.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------ message 5064 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5064
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@hotmail.com> References: <0.1d2b7eeb.25742885@aol.com> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:36:34 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have no idea what you mean by the lights matching up with the black area of the pic, but if you look at the picture next to that one, the one where the workers are working on the underside of a D chassis which is on it's side, you'll notice that BOTH workers have air tools in their LEFT hands. Well, I know that it's possible that there could be two left-handers working on a car, but it is unlikely. It looks like another printing error to me. Not only that, but if you look closely, you can see that the spare tire "bubble" is on the wrong side. So, if the pic is "correct", then you have a factory RHD chassis of a DeLorean with two left-handed workers working on it. But I would guess that that pic is reversed as well.
---Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: <CBL302@aol.com> To: <dmcnews@egroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 2:05 PM Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE
> That is what I thought of first,but if you magnify the picture you will see that the ceiling and lights match up with the black area of the picture,and besides why would the factory deliberty confuse a customer. > > Claude > 000570 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@dmcnews.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -- Create a poll/survey for your group! > -- http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=dmcnews&m=1 > > >
------------------------------ message 5065 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5065
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:06:28 -0500 From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <jsight@mindspring.com> References: <19991129152927.44698.qmail@hotmail.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: door panel removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Basically, you just follow the instructions in the workshop manual. They are relatively good. :-)
But, here's a rundown, as well as the one disagreement that I have with the book:
1.) Pop loose the fir-tree clamps along the top of the upper trim pad. Simply get your finger, or a flat, sturdy object under the top edge of the trim panel and pull up. :-) They should pop right out, allowing for easy removal of the trim pad.
2.) Unscrew the lower trim bracket from the door. I believe that there are about 6 screws involved here, but do make sure to remember what order they go in. Nothing's worse than trying to put the wrong screws in the wrong holes. :(
3.) Carefully remove the molding from around the lock/release latch/mirror. I believe that the manual almost completely neglects to mention this step, but... well it's important. :)
4.) Break loose the fir tree clips at the bottom of the lower trim panel. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal between the lower door carpet and the door itself. If you do, this can easily be glued back on (as I had to do:).
5.) Stare down at the handle used to pull the door down (you know, the one with the pull-strap attached... yeah that one:). From the top inside you should be able to see TWO hex nuts that hold the handle in place. I believe that they are 13mm, but I may be remembering wrong. Remove those two bolts and remove the door pull handle.
6.) Now you should be able to remove the entire lower trim pad, and get to work on re-forming that door guide.
Overall the process can be a bit time-consuming, but is relatively painless. And, AFAIK, the $5 fix will at least solve your problem for a while, as it seems to be working well with my passenger side door at the moment.
Have fun,
Jess http://www.biddin.com/delorean/ VIN# 5220
"Mike $" wrote: > > Hi, I need to fix my windows (I'm doing the $5 fix for now), but I would > like to know the proper way of taking apart the interior panel of the door > first. I didn't want to just jump in and break something :) Could someone > explain the proper procedure, or direct me to a web-page explaining how to > do this? > Thanks in advance, > Mike Schaefer > vin 01118
------------------------------ message 5066 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5066
From: UNCLEUMP@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:46:16 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Blown Ignition Coil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In a message dated 11/29/99 8:07:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, stephen.liggett@uc.edu writes:
<< I wonder if there is a better coil that can be used instead of the usual one? >>
My Mechanic used a new Bosch ignition coil. They are now made of stainless steel, instead of plastic. mATT
------------------------------ message 5067 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5067
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 00:23:02 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Removing fuel pump MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
David, If the gas smells O.K. and the pump and boot look like there in good shape it should be safe for you to start the engine.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: Delorean17@aol.com > > Hello, > I removed the plastic panel to get to the fuel pump to check the seal. I > loosend the clamp and the fuel pump will move. I cant get it out all the way > to see if the seal is ok. should I remove the fuel lines coming from it?
> there is also a few wires there. how should I go about removing the whole > pump without damaging anything. I would like to get this done when I get > out of school tomorrow! any suggestions? I was relieved when I smelled the > gas, it isnt too bad at all. If I find that the seal and pump look fine > should I attemp to start it? > > hopefully she will start for the first time in 9 months. > > Thanks > > David, > vin#2496-looking for owners in west michigan
------------------------------ message 5068 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5068
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:57:22 -0800 From: "Mark Noeltner" <mnoeltne@ezl.com> In-Reply-To: <0.680aaab2.257479eb@aol.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean wont turn over MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Could be lots of things, but the first thing I would check would be the connection where the negative battery cable connects to the frame. Clean that connection good, it's probably corroded and not allowing the full power of the battery to reach the starter.
Mark
> I went out to start my 81 5 speed DeLorean today and the starter wouldnt > budge.( it has sat for 5 months) I put a brand new battery in it today but I > just here a clicking sound coming from behind the pasenger seat when I turn > the key. no power is getting to the starter. What could be the problem?
------------------------------ message 5069 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5069
From: "Travis Graham" <tgraham@delorean.org> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:18:40 -0600 In-Reply-To: <81ua9c$eg9j@eGroups.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: speakers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I went through this ordeal about two years ago. It's not as bad as it seems - all it takes is a little care and about one hour!
I put together a HOWTO on this procedure. You can find it at: http://www.delorean.org/tgraham/projects.htm
I actually went through another replacement on a friend's D not too long ago and took pictures! Unfortunately, I haven't updated my web pages yet. I will try to update my HOWTO sometime this week. If I forget and someone wants to see it, please e-mail me a reminder!
Travis Graham
-----Original Message----- From: Erik Geerdink [mailto:delorean502@excite.com] Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 10:40 AM To: dmcnews@eGroups.com Subject: [DML] speakers
Does anybody know how to get to the back speakers to replace them?
Erik 4512
------------------------------ message 5070 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5070
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:29:34 -0500 From: Paul Gress <pgress@pb.net> References: <003501bf39e8$a13404c0$0b4addd8@mrcopies> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I had this problem when I wanted to dip my frame in hot zinc. For me there were three options:
1) The company that dips parts (bridge) into melted zinc can do so with the epoxy on, the epoxy will burn off. They were not allowed to do this any more in my State (NY). 2) Dipping into paint remover (furniture refinishers and industrial painting). 3) Furniture stripper to use Volcanic Ash to blast the Epoxy off the frame.
The third method was the method I used.
Paul Gress vin 10193
"mike@mrcopies.com" wrote:
> Hey Gang! One of the projects on the books this winter is to do a > restoration on my Delorean's frame. I'm not looking for concours here > just need to be able to patch the frame in the spots it requires and > put the car safely on the road. I'd like to remove the epoxy from the > frame and was wondering what the best way is. Wire brush and some > elbow grease? or can you do it chemically? I know at one point > someone had a webpage on this but I've been unable to locate it on the > archives. Any help would be appreciated. Thanksmike@mrcopies.com > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@dmcnews.com > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > > eGroups.com Home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews > www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
------------------------------ message 5071 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5071
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:15:58 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Blown Ignition Coil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Steve, Before entertaining any thoughts of changing out your Bosch ignition coil consider the following. The factory installed coils have a "0" failure rate. Your choice; do you want to trade off questionable performance for 100% reliability.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
> > I wonder if there is a better coil that can be used instead of the > usual one? > > > > Steve Liggett > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@dmcnews.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault > -- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/dmcnews/?m=1 >
------------------------------ message 5072 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5072
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:55:49 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: something easy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Mike, You have the very famous "no hot start" problem. Nine out of ten times this problem will go away after replacing the fuel accumulator.
Your surging idle during warm up is normal.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: Police6627@aol.com > > i have an 82 automatic delorean that normally runs fine. lately after a small > drive i turn if off and it will not restart for about five minutes. it turns > over fine but just turns and turns and then about five minutes later i come > back and it starts fine. also when it idles the engine noise goes up and down > for about three minutes then maintaines a happy medium. any suggestions.... > > mike leising > sugarland, tx vin 11288
------------------------------ message 5073 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5073
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:39:26 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: speakers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Erik, Don't bother. First of all accessing those speakers requires a major disassembly of the interior rear quarter panel. Secondly the speakers have no; I repeat, NO BAFFLEING. That means that the speakers sit in mid air, an audio traducer no! no! Investigate having speakers installed in the rear wall of your parcel shelf or If you don't want to do any cutting, there are loads of "hatchback" type speakers that can fit on your parcel shelf that sound pretty good.
BTW: if you don't care about "bass" than go ahead and replace the OEM speakers.
Happy Holiday's DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
---------- > From: Erik Geerdink <delorean502@excite.com> > > Does anybody know how to get to the back speakers to replace them? > > Erik > 4512
------------------------------ message 5074 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5074
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@att.net> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:41:16 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: lost delorean may find light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
chip, You were right about the $4k estimate as being incorrect, but it's not too high it is too low. If the front end is damaged and both front fenders need replacement you should know the LF stainless panel is not readily available. You will have to do a lot of searching and expect to pay as much as $4K just for one panel.
Happy Holiday's DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net> Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com> ---------- > From: Chip Shirek <cshirek@mail.deipro.com>
have to be made for it and probably new panels in the front. Me personally, i have no idea how much these parts would cost. The guy told my dad that he had gotten a quote of 4 grad to fix the front. That dowsn't necessarly sound so right to me though. i would have thought it would have been a little less.
> chip
------------------------------ message 5075 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5075
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:46:24 +0000 From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@delorean.co.uk> References: <0.62dbccbd.25730791@aol.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: United Kingdom DMC Registration? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
ROBLAMROCK@aol.com wrote:
> > Ian, > Unless the car has been previously registered in the United Kingdom then you > will probably need E type approval first of all.
...not if you import the car yourself. Then it's just a standard MOT - it's just tge fogs and headlights that need attention,
It's if you buy an unregistered car int he UK that you need to get it type approved,
Best WIshes,
Martin
------------------------------ message 5076 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5076
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:48:10 +0000 From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@delorean.co.uk> References: <0.34f07ae9.25737ce1@aol.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Sounds to me like the photo is flipped - even with the steering wheel on the right, there's no reson to relocate the fuel filler.
Martin
CBL302@aol.com wrote:
> > That is weird,because if you look in the in the Black Brochure,(the one with > the fold-outs)you will see a picture of a Black body on a tellis carrier that > IS a right hard drive,with the gas fill bump out (where the gas cap goes) on > what is the passenger side,you could even make out the big rubber gas fill > hose that goes to the gas tank.THAT is absolute proof that RHD DRIVE black > grp bodies were made,and right hand cars were made at the DMC factory.One > picture says a thousand words. > > Claude > 000570
------------------------------ message 5077 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5077
From: john_geuley@hp.com Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:57:36 +0000 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Steering Rack Origin ? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="Steering" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi All,
Does anyone know if there is a steering rack cross reference part ??
I assume that the steering rack on the Delorean was not made
specifically for the one car and that it was taken from another
vehicle ??
Regards
John G.
England.
------------------------------ message 5078 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5078
From: Mike03062@aol.com Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:11:22 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: lost delorean may find light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In the state of New Hampshire a car over 10 years old does not need a Title, In fact one cannot even get a title for a car that old even if turning in a "Perfect" Title from NH of any other state, so fleet cars, police cars, salvage cars don't matter, as long as they can pass inspection when street ready. One merely needs a bill of sale (not even notarized) and real VIN #'s. For vehicles without VIN's, or European VIN's the process is a bit more complex, but still do-able. As a bonus NH no longer tests emissions either. Does that give a clue to our state motto "Live Free or Die" which is stamped on the number plate!! Over the years this rule has allowed me to restore some real basket cases and get them on the road.
DMD in NH
------------------------------ message 5079 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5079
From: CBL302@aol.com Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 05:39:49 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
It could be a negative goof,or it could just be a right hand drive car,problem is unless you find the people in the pic we will never know,just another mystery to add in the Delorean Saga.
Claude 000570
------------------------------ message 5080 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5080
Date: 30 Nov 99 10:42:31 +0000 From: Nick Ryan <nick@imagenow.ie> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: RIGHT HAND DRIVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-Ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Can someone scan this photo in?
When Claude says that the picture shows a Right hand drive car with the = gas fill bump out on the passenger side, does he mean passenger side in = the states (i.e Right Hand Side) or passenger side of what would be a = Right hand drive car (i.e the left side, like all Deloreans). If it is on = the left side then indeed this would not be a flipped photo neg. But one = must see to determine. Nothing like a good mystery eh?
Nick VIN#16045
------------------------------ message 5081 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5081
From: CBL302@aol.com Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 05:54:29 EST X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame - need insight. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
yikes! Don't leave that frame outside for the winter,after stripping or you won't find much left to it,on the serious side,what are you going to put on the frame after stripping it? Primer and Paint?Or are you going to try to re expoy the frame? I would suggest POR-15(Pour over Rust)to apply over the bare frame.
Claude 000570
------------------------------ message 5082 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5082
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:34:48 -0600 From: Robert Brandys <oehcs@flash.net> References: <81t13b$jena@eGroups.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Epoxy from the frame MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have been restoring old cars for almost 40 years. I follow the FAA specification for steel and iron parts in airplanes. I have also done aging studies over years with cars left out in the whether. Here is the process
1. Remove rust to bare metal as much as possible. high speed wire brushing is the easiest for most people. Sand blasting is best.
2. Treat metal with phosphoric acid metal prep. let dry 24 hrs.
3. Paint metal with "yellow death" from Dupont. (This is absolutely critical.) Let dry /cure at least 48 hours.
4. Cover with epoxy chromate primer.
5. Cover with sandable primer 3 coats minimum. Let dry sand with 400 grit.
6. Paint with finish paint.
Dr. Bob
------------------------------ message 5083 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5083
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:42:16 -0600 From: Robert Brandys <oehcs@flash.net> References: <81ul1r$qad5@eGroups.com> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Re: Blown Ignition Coil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I installed the Bosch blue coil which is supposed to be higher energy.
Accel, and other companies also make 40,000+ volt standard size coils. Bob
------------------------------ message 5084 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=5084
From: "David Silek" <dsilek@email.msn.com> References: <19991129152927.44698.qmail@hotmail.com> <38432314.D5CAE229@mindspring.com> Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:09:42 -0500 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com Subject: [DML] Battery Light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
A new issue started today, my battery light seems to have a dim red glow to it. I have never noticed this before. Also. on my battery gauge the needle seems to always stay right below 13 (mid-point). Any advise on how to proceed is most appreciated.
DeLorean regards, David Silek Driving the D in Va. Beach and Front Royal, VA and points elsewhere in the Commonwealth. Vin # 6110
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