DeLorean Mailing List #26 - 10/16/95
Subjects:
Re: Idle problems
Re: Idle problems
dashboard removal
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From: specres@Onramp.NET
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 12:49:24 +0000
To: dmcnews@goodnet.com
Subject: Re: Idle problems
Most idle problems on the DeLorean are caused by any condition that
would keep the throttle plate from completely closing, including the
conditions described by others so far.
The throttle plate must close completely with absolutely no air leaks
around the plate, otherwise the constant idle circuit attempts to
compensate and the engine will either idle too fast, or do a constant
revup/down sequence, particularly with the engine under no load
(i.e., transmission in neutral). Assuming that the throttle cable
and the idle switch stop screw both allow the plate to completely
close, and there is no other external mechanical reason the plate
can't fully close, then the throttle plates are probably just dirty.
You may have to open up the air intake to view them and gain enough
access to clean them with a spray solvent-type cleaner, and, if I
recall, you will need an Air Intake O-ring and gasket set to put it
back together. The O-rings and gaskets are local stock Volvo/PRV items, or
of course from any of the DeLorean specialists.
Since you mentioned the idle is OK when you "pop" the accelerator, I
suspect that the problem is related to the throttle cable-- a little
binding perhaps, just enough for the throttle return spring
to fail to return the plates to the fully closed position. The Idle
microswitch (ganged with an identical switch that controls the
airconditioner at idle, I think) has been known to fail as well,
although even when open it doesn't hav all that much effect on idle
stability. Test this switch with an ordinary ohmmeter, you should get
continuity every time the accelerator pedal is released. When they go
bad, they're usually intermittent.
Incidentally, one of the important recalls was to add a small plate that
covers the throttle cable spool to keep out the elements. My car and
several others never got this update, and the cable will wick up
enough water to freeze in the winter, or at least cause enough drag
on the cable. Last year I blew out the cable with shop air (connected
it with a rubber hose between an air compressor and the throttle
cable) and got a couple ounces of water in a bowl placed under the
accelerator pedal.
Mark Hershey
specres@onramp.net
All lines busy....Please hold.
From: GreyMattrs@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 1995 15:41:14
To: dmcnews@goodnet.com
Subject: Re: Idle problems
Thanks to all who offered suggestions about my idle problem. This morning I had
the time to try and fix it, but still am having the problem. The throttle return
spring seemed a little tight, so I shot it with some ZEP to loosen it up a bit,
but the only way I can get the idle back down to normal is to push on the arm
that actuates the microswitch--it only needs perhaps a 1/16 inch movement to
make the idle drop to a more normal speed. I will continue to play with it!
Thanks again to all!
Grey Matthews
From: Takeuchi@peak.org (David Takeuchi)
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 03:20:49 -0800
To: DMCnews@goodnet.com
Subject: dashboard removal
Has anyone ever managed to remove the dashboard without having to remove
the windshield? I can't seem to find the right screwdriver to get to the
screws between the front dash and the windshiled.
David Takeuchi
Takeuchi@peak.org
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End of DMC-News Digest #026
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