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Sunday, October 5 1997 Volume 03 : Number 287
In this issue:
Re: DML: New DeLorean Owner with Questions
Re: DML: any RHD for sale?
DML: Alternator&CAP/ fuses, T-STAT, window and door locks and FANS
DML: re: DML/fuel accumulator
DML: RE: New DeLorean Owner w/Questions
RE: DML: any RHD for sale?
DML: my two cents (pence?) on the RHD cars
DML: Resetting Lambda Counter
DML: Alternator&CAP
DML: low priced delorean
DML: Weight differences
DML: Alternator exchange
DML: I SAW AN 1981 DMC for sale today asking 12,500.00 USD
DML: General Reply to :KEYS:
Re: DML: Alternator&CAP
DML: How to remove center a/c control panel?
DML: DeLreans painted at the factory?
DML: Delorean Folklore...
DML: RE: PNDC e-mail addresses
Re: DML: Weight differences
DML: Fuel System Blues
Re: DML: How to remove center a/c control panel?
DML: DMC dealer in Maine?
Re: DML: Alternator exchange
DML: Frame
Re: DML: my two cents (pence?) on the RHD cars
Re: DML: Alternator&CAP
DML: The nasty *I* word >> Insurance!
Re: DML: Weight differences
Re: DML: Frame
DML: door struts
Re: DML: Fuel System Blues
Re:License Plate was DML: Alternator exchange
DML: DeLorean Dealer In Maine
DML: Re: Insurance!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 97 07:04:11 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Re: DML: New DeLorean Owner with Questions
On 9/30/97 6:51 PM, Steven W. Gilseth shared these fine thoughts...
Congratulations on the new purchase - be sure and join the DeLorean
Owners Directory or at least the Production Chronology.
>First - I am looking for a set of repair manuals and the such. I =
>contacted Delorean One in CA and they gave me a price of $142 plus =
>shipping. Is that a reasonable price for those materials? Does =
>somebody know of a different source?
The first five sections of the Parts Manual are available in PDF format
from the DMC-News website for free, all you have to do is download it.
Subsequent sections are uploaded monthly. Let me know if you need
assistance. There will be an announcement soon regarding the subject of
manuals and the like that should be of particular interest to
computer-owning DeLorean enthusiasts.
>Second - When I purchased the car which has 32K miles the LAMBDA light =
>was on. The dealer I bought it from ordered a replacement oxygen sensor =
>but is unsure on how to clear the light. Will it go out automatically =
>after replacing the sensor?
Look in the drivers floor, near the firewall. You'll see a yellow colored
box (the lambda counter) that has the speedo cable going through it.
Unscrew the cables from each end and then remove the box from it's
mounting. On one end you'll see a round fitting with two holes on the
top. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to turn the fitting until the
numbers on the counter read 000. Re-install and you're good to go.
>Third - The radio doesn't work. I haven't had a lot of time to look at =
>this problem yet, but I did check the fuse box and all the fuses are OK. =
> From monitoring DMC News I have learned that problems with the fuse box =
>is common. I also have a partially melted fuse panel and fuse. I =
>replaced the melted fuse with a new even though it was intact. Anyway, =
>does anyone have any other suggestions on what might be the problem with =
>the radio? It looks like it is getting no power at all. Is there =
>another fuse or circuit breaker?
I wouldn't say that there are necessarily problems with the fuse box, I'd
say the problem comes from oxidized, dirty contacts on the fuses that
generate a lot of heat, causing the melted fuses and damaged fuse boxes.
Same goes for all the electrical contacts in the car - someone else want
to elaborate further?
With car #5982, if the radio is original, it should be the Craig radio.
Does the tape deck work? I have the ASI radio in my '82, and it recently
gave up the ghost also, though the tape deck would still work. I can't
say for sure about the Craig radios, but my ASI has an inline fuse behind
the dash, also. I worked on a friends car a few weeks ago, and the
previous owner had an aftermarket stereo installed, but reinstalled the
original radio when he sold the car. It didn't work, but it turned out to
be not connected securely and just needed to be plugged back in. Does your
antenna go up and down when you turn it on/off - assuming you have a power
antenna, of course!
>Last for now - Is there anyway to determine if the engine, transmission, =
>etc. are the originals? I am pretty sure I do not have the original key =
>and am also interested in getting a few blank DeLorean keys.
As far as the engine and transmission being originals, and having the
"numbers match" like commonly associated with other cars, the engine
number and VIN have no correlation. If your car has the original window
sticker, as mine does, it may show the engine number on the sticker which
**should** match the engine in the car. My window sticker has no engine
number printed on it, can anyone else verify that this is a valid way to
check?
James
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 17:32:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROBLAMROCK@aol.com
Subject: Re: DML: any RHD for sale?
In a message dated 10/1/97 3:42:12PM, you write:
<< Do you or does anybody know how many factory RHD DeLoreans were =
produced? - I thought I had heard the number 36 somewhere along the =
line.... any documented VIN number ranges? Do you know how many =
kilometers are on this vehicle? Sorry for all the questions, but I have
=
always been interested in factory RHD Deloreans, not conversions.
>>
OK here's the low down on the RHD conversions:
A company called Wooler-Hodec in Andover, England did the majority of RHD
conversions using LHD cars shipped from the factory in Dunmurry. There
were
at least 15 cars converted. A number of cars were destroyed in crash
testing
and the factory in Dunmurry converted about three cars.
Norman Walters, the foreman at Wooler-Hodec (which went out of business
some
years ago), subsequently did a number of conversions for Top Gun (a
company
in England, also no longer in business) run by Andy Hobb. Up until a few
years ago Norman Walters completed conversions for around 4,500 (pounds
stirling). Norman had a supply of all the necessary parts eg. dash,
steering
gear, wing mirrors, wiper motors, plus the knowledge of what's required.
Rob
Grady worked on one of these cars owned by Tony Lumsden-Cook who had it
shipped to NY from England for the DOA convention in Williamsburg, and it
was
sold at an auction in London to a buyer in Australia some time ago.
There are also specialists willing to undertake the complicated work but
it
can be expensive. I believe Ed Bernstein did it once for a Japanese
customer. One owner in Birmingham did it himself - but it took a lot of
effort.
VIN numbers vary.
Robert Lamrock, Belfast.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 18:57:04 +0000
From: "Steve"
Subject: DML: Alternator&CAP/ fuses, T-STAT, window and door locks and FANS
Hello:
As the saga continues, seems that I've been blowing fuses, left and
right, so I checked the cap at the alternator (u know the 3 uF one)
and it checked BAD ((open)), Hmmmmmmm, brand new alternator and
cap, so back to the Alternator shop, while I was there we did
EXTENSIVE tests on the "D" -current draw and all that stuff. Seems
all is working well but the CAP and as we all know one area that
could use improvment is in the charging and current area, so during
the chat while considering my options, I asked about the DELCO/AC
144 AMP alternator (used in a lot of "high performance" police cars)
, so he pulls one out and with a slight midification to the mounting
plate (IT WILL FIT) so off comes the old one for a full refund and
the NEW 144 AMP-er is being set up for pick-up in tomorrows AM, so
by noon I'll be using the new one, by the way this one has an
internal CAP (to prevent noise and spikes). more on the (specs) of
the alternator later OH, the dash light problem last night was a
blown fuse....... =spike ,no doubt= IF YOU have fuses blowing and
relays going bad almost on a daily basis CHECK THAT CAP. Electric
door locks problem seems to be resolved with another chat with
(Houston) and Warren again.... seems to be the passenger door lock
solinoid but it will have to wait a few months
the window motor repair was a bit strange....
it had been replaced with a (HEAVY DUTY) unit in mid june, but just
refused to work, so after pulling the door apart (needed to anyhow -
re:door lock solinoid) a piece of plastic was caught in the spring
shaft, a simple removal and it works great.......
Thermostat: the 180 degree t-stat keeps the car running VERY COOL,
actually it's kinda scary how cool it's running even with the AIR on
and NO fans, I actually couldnt believe it so I put a temperature
gauge in the line (just to be on the safe side) and it's working
like a champ, even here in FLORIDA. Stays right on 180, as the temp
go's a little over that it opens and the needle go's back to 180 and
stays right there. I'm looking into replacment FANS that DRAW LESS
CURRENT, while still maintaining good air flow..........
I'm not trying to re-engineer the car, it's my every day driver and
it needs to be "MS. RELIABLE".
later
steve (vin10734)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 97 22:59:35 -0000
From: David Swingle
Subject: DML: re: DML/fuel accumulator
mhtexcollins WROTE:
>Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 15:28:08 -0500
>From: mhtexcollins@juno.com
>Subject: DML: fuel accumulator
>
>Did someone say that one could change the accumulator from above? I
>heard that it was suggested here. Would that be less trouble than
>lifting it ? Is any of this in the workshop manual? Any help would be
>greatly appreciated. I really like this forum.
This is not in the workshop manual.
NO - what was said is that you have to hold the fittings from above (take
the junk tray out of the console), i.e. a two person job. If you try to
unscrew the fittings from below without holding from above you will kink
the metal fuel lines. This is really only necessary if you are replacing
the accumulator hoses.
Sorry - this job is a real pain in the neck no matter how you do it - but
hey - if you wanted it easy you'd be restoring a Camaro ;-)
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 97 22:59:39 -0000
From: David Swingle
Subject: DML: RE: New DeLorean Owner w/Questions
Steven W. Gilseth WROTE
>Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 13:51:35 -0500
>Subject: DML: New DeLorean Owner with Questions
>First - I am looking for a set of repair manuals and the such. I =
>contacted Delorean One in CA and they gave me a price of $142 plus =
>shipping. Is that a reasonable price for those materials? Does =
>somebody know of a different source?
PJ Grady (800-350-7429) gets $115 for the three book set of parts,
workshop, and bulletins - worth every penny. The first thing every new
owner should buy, wherever you get it.
>Second - When I purchased the car which has 32K miles the LAMBDA light =
>was on. The dealer I bought it from ordered a replacement oxygen sensor =
>but is unsure on how to clear the light. Will it go out automatically =
>after replacing the sensor?
Under the dach attached to the steering column is a litle white plastic
box in line with the speedo cable, with a wire coming out of the side.
Unplug it. Unscrew it and the speedo cables, and remove it from the car.
You'll see a number dial like an odometer. On the side is a dial that you
turn with a snap-ring pliers or a paper clip. Reset it to 000 and the
light stays off for another 27000 miles. If you don't care about that,
just unplug the wire and the light will stay out forever.
>
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 23:52:43 +0100 (BST)
From: Martin Gutkowski
Subject: RE: DML: any RHD for sale?
Hi,
The person who really knows what he's talking about is Rob Lamrock. What
I've been told is that there are VERY few RHD factory-originals. There is
only One auto, of that I'm sure. Most of them are '83s that were converted
under licence by a company based in Andover. There are two that have been
privately converted (costing 8000 pounds for the conversion [1.59 dollars
to the pound at present]). There were 36 originals, and about 15 were
crash-tested. I gather there are fewer than 20 around today.
I'm NOT absolutely sure of all my facts here as what I've written id from
memory of a phone-call I had a couple of months ago.
Martin
On Tue, 30 Sep 1997, Mickey Mitchell wrote:
> Do you or does anybody know how many factory RHD DeLoreans were =
> produced? - I thought I had heard the number 36 somewhere along the =
> line.... any documented VIN number ranges? Do you know how many =
> kilometers are on this vehicle? Sorry for all the questions, but I have =
> always been interested in factory RHD Deloreans, not conversions.
>
> Tnx
> Mickey #3408 - Dallas, Texas USA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 10:42:50 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: DML: my two cents (pence?) on the RHD cars
On 10/2/97 5:23 PM, Robert Lamrock shared these fine thoughts...
>There are also specialists willing to undertake the complicated work but it
>can be expensive. I believe Ed Bernstein did it once for a Japanese
>customer. One owner in Birmingham did it himself - but it took a lot of
>effort.
>VIN numbers vary.
First, thanks Robert for the straight-skinny on the RHD cars. I was
originally looking for one when I bought my car, and did not find one
that was less than the equivalent of 40,000 USD. Considering the rarity,
this is not too surprising. The one RHD car I did see at EuroFest this
past summer in Belfast was #12174 (May 82), a black interior, five speed
car. Robert, do you know the origin of this car? Incidentally, it shows
the highest VIN I have ever seen for the '82 models, and also the latest
build month for 82s.
One of our list members from Japan, Yoshi Hamaie, owns a converted RHD
car, and at one time Ed B. did work on it, but Ed did not convert it.
Whether or not Ed has done a conversion for a Japanese customer I do not
know. Once a car reaches a certain age, it no longer must be converted to
RHD for importation into Japan, I believe it is ten years. Australia, on
the other hand, requires RHD no matter what the age is, I believe.
James
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 08:34:57 -0400
From: Mike Griese
Subject: DML: Resetting Lambda Counter
The Lambda counter is located under the dashboard
next to the steering column. The speedometer cable
passes through the counter (that's why there are
upper and lower speedometer cables). The counter
measures percent of use of the oxygen sensor, and the
sensor has a predicted 30,000 mile life. That means
that a Lambda counter showing 020 has travelled about
6000 miles since the last reset (20% of 30,000). The
counter should never vary more than about 250 miles
from the odometer. If it does, your odometer has been
tampered with or your car has had a rare upper
speedometer cable failure.
To reset the counter, remove it from the car and look on
the right side. You should see a small plastic disk with
two holes in it. Using a pair of snap ring pliers (needlenose
work also) rotate the disk until the counter reads 000.
You should also replace your oxygen sensor at this time.
Michael A. Griese
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 14:47:32 -0500
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01
Subject: DML: Alternator&CAP
What exactly is the 'CAP'?
>----------
Steve wrote:
>Hello:
>As the saga continues, seems that I've been blowing fuses, left and
>right, so I checked the cap at the alternator (u know the 3 uF one)
>and it checked BAD ((open)), Hmmmmmmm, brand new alternator and
>cap, so back to the Alternator shop, while I was there we did
>EXTENSIVE tests on the "D" -current draw and all that stuff. Seems
>all is working well but the CAP ------- = IF YOU have fuses blowing and
>relays going bad almost on a daily basis CHECK THAT CAP.
>steve (vin10734)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 22:37:28 -0400
From: Dave Negard
Subject: DML: low priced delorean
Hey guys,
I am new to this mailing list, and would first just like to say
hello. I was very pleased when I found out that there was a spot on the
net where I could contact fellow DeLorean fans. I have always admired
the DeLorean as one of my very favorite cars, and currently desire to
acquire one. My problem is that I am a senior in high school, who loves
cars, but lacks cash. I am looking for a DeLorean which is very used,
to the point that i may afford one, then over time i will restore it.
As long as it works ok, i do not care about mileage. Do any of you know
of any such available DeLoreans. I am currently saving $$$ from work,
and hopefully by spring I will be in the market for what I am looking
for. If anyone reading this message has any suggestions, please send me
them. I would be ever greatful to receive some. Thanks for your time,
and I hope some of you will write back.
Thanx,
Dave Negard
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 00:52:03 -0700
From: cliff wallace
Subject: DML: Weight differences
Anyone own a red or black DMC? Just wondering what the difference in
weight there is between the stainless and the factory painted DMC's. My
'81 is stainless at 3180lbs.
Cliff #3773
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 18:40:16 +0000
From: "Steve"
Subject: DML: Alternator exchange
Hello:
Well today I replaced the alternator, u know the new one that was
only 110 amps, well now i'm running 144Amps of alternator.
It's slightly bigger that the stock one, however went in with a
little modification.
had to take the alternator mount (the one bolted to the block) to a
machine shop -had it milled down about 1/2 inch -due to the spacing
between the new alternator. spent $10.00 for that... could-a done it
myself but thats a lot of steel for a hacksaw... plus it looks a lot
nicer milled.... got a longer adjusting arm and a 1 inch longer belt.
WELL---let me tell u.... this alternator doesn't EVEN BLINK at
AIR ON-LIGHTS-FANS what a difference this makes. It hovers around 13
volts now instead of 10/11 FULL LOAD.
*By the way while i was in there i checked the idler pullys and they
were on there way out, so down to the local parts store and 1/2 hour
later both were rebuilt. seems to have stopped the flexing of the
belts while idling too.
Parts are as follows
Alternator ACDELCO 8204-10.3 10463637 321-1096-3M6
Idler bearings Federal Mogel 202SS (steel sleeves) and 202FF
(Plastic sleeves)
New Belt 7512 (one inch longer than stock)
universal adjusting bracket (anout 1/2 longer than stock)
finally got my notice today that my -specialty plates are in-I'll
pick them up tomorrow morning -(IN THE DELOREAN)
82 DMC-12 later
steve (VIN 10734)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 18:40:16 +0000
From: "Steve"
Subject: DML: I SAW AN 1981 DMC for sale today asking 12,500.00 USD
Hello:
I saw a 1981 "D" for sale today (in a dealer lot) here in the
Melbourne Fl. area, so of course i HAD to stop.-looks like a buy here
pay here deal- I'm not sure if i remember the vin correctly but i
believe it to be VIN 5774 OCT 1981.
AUTOMATIC gray interior Stainless Steel/no paint
seemed to run ok, rough idle and a few strange noises in the engine
area. the asking price is 12,500.USD
I'll try to keep this report generic but the Guy at the lot was VERY
RUDE and -didnt have a CLUE about the car.. to start with he told me
he's seen cars like this selling for 50,000 60,000 dollars.... don't
we all wish.. that is.. if u already own one ..ha.......
any how with that out of the way....
the car has exhaust problems...muffler.../pipes/ etc....air seemed to
work- but no REAL cold- it had about 37,000 miles on it, but the guy
wouldnt let me verify that.... by checking the counter under the
dash.. providing that it wasn't reset, anyway the driver seat was
redone--very badly at that temp gauge doesn't seem to work -windows
wired backwards, when i pulled the electrical panel- the guy came
unglued- however looks STOCK no mods and a lot of splices and
corrosion type stuff.... Now to the BODY... it looked REAL GOOD,
FRAME GOOD no rust to be seen. This car was trying to be sold at a
garage sale for $8000.00 a few months ago. So it might be on a
consignment type deal and he might go lower....
but he told me he was going to "blast it on the net"
and it would go FAST at that price....
Since i just bought my "82" in june iv'e looked at a lot of "d"s over
the past two years and this is a 6000/8000 car.
If u want a fixer/upper and can get the price down it would be a fun
car to restore.
steve (vin10734)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 08:10:09 +0000
From: "Steve"
Subject: DML: General Reply to :KEYS:
Hello:
I have several "parts cross reference" lists and they all suggest the
following
"A dealer" who has TAYLOR BLANKS
CURTIS BL#1 / BL#15
Dominion Blanks NE24/WB2
ilco X29/X9
Haven't gotten to the keys yet, so let me know if anyone has luck
with the suggestions
thanks
steve - VIN 10734-
//
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 23:04:46 -0400
From: Bruce A Wilcoxon
Subject: Re: DML: Alternator&CAP
>Subject: DML: Alternator&CAP
>Sent: 10/2/97 3:47 PM
>Received: 10/2/97 10:59 PM
>From: Don Gowler-CFPO01, Don_Gowler-CFPO01@email.mot.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews@world.std.com
>To: 'dmcnews@world.std.com%INTERNET', dmcnews@world.std.com
>
>What exactly is the 'CAP'?
>
>>----------
>Steve wrote:
>>Hello:
>>As the saga continues, seems that I've been blowing fuses, left and
>>right, so I checked the cap at the alternator (u know the 3 uF one)
>>and it checked BAD ((open)), Hmmmmmmm, brand new alternator and
>>cap, so back to the Alternator shop, while I was there we did
>>EXTENSIVE tests on the "D" -current draw and all that stuff. Seems
>>all is working well but the CAP ------- = IF YOU have fuses blowing and
>>relays going bad almost on a daily basis CHECK THAT CAP.
>>steve (vin10734)
I believe Steve is writing about the 3 microFarad capacitor associated
with the distributor.
Bruce
bawilcox@ix.netcom.com
OffBeat Sound
2785 Tigertail Ave #309
Coconut Grove FL 33133
"I'd rather be blind than deaf." FJ Hayden
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 10:29:06 -0400
From: "Geoffroy Birtz"
Subject: DML: How to remove center a/c control panel?
I'm still having trouble with my vacuum/heater/defrost thing.
How does one remove the center console panel ?(where the temp controls
are)
Do I have to remove the whole center console cover that runs across the
cockpit ?
Step by step details would be good !!!!
Geoffroy.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 10:01:01 -0400
From: Mike Substelny
Subject: DML: DeLreans painted at the factory?
Cliff Wallace said:
> "Just wondering what the difference in weight there is between
> the stainless and the factory painted DMC's."
I don't think there were any factory painted DeLoreans. There were a
few painted by dealers, and after that some painted by owners and
detailing shops.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 19:21:29 -0400
From: Marc Levy
Subject: DML: Delorean Folklore...
FYI..
There is a interesting thread on alt.folklore.urban talking about the
Delorean Cocaine story.
Found it by searching in Dejanews.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 12:58:51 -0700
From: Greg Linstad
Subject: DML: RE: PNDC e-mail addresses
In response to the request for e-mail addresses for members of
the PNDC (Pacific Northwest Delorean Club), Arnie Brandon does not have
one but some of us do. Here is a list:
Greg Linstad= gregl@luxar.com
Gary Hull= ghull@gte.net
Mike McDonnough= dmcflyin@aol.com
Go Mariners!
Greg Linstad
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 97 07:18:03 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Re: DML: Weight differences
On 10/2/97 7:52 AM, cliff wallace shared these thoughts...
>Anyone own a red or black DMC? Just wondering what the difference in
>weight there is between the stainless and the factory painted DMC's. My
>'81 is stainless at 3180lbs.
First, let's set the record straight - THERE WERE NO FACTORY PAINTED
CARS. The facilities to paint cars did NOT EXIST at the factory. Any
painted cars were done by the dealer or the owner. Yes, DMC did do some
testing with DuPont with a tinted clear finish but never achieved
satisfactory results.
I can not imagine that there would be that much difference in weight
between a painted car and an unpainted one.
James
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 97 11:25:55 PDT
From: dh@hpserv7.mxim.com
Subject: DML: Fuel System Blues
I know this is getting boring. Still, I have been having the
famous "DMC won't start hot" problem. I have replaced the fuel
pump, pickup line, and the accumulator. Absolutely no improvement.
Does anyone have any ideas of what else can be wrong with my
Delorean? The usual symptoms. Starts immediately when cold.
Wont even start to start when still warm. Car never stalls.
Seems to be worse when tank is very full.
(by the way, Matt mentioned a North American Lotus Elise, is
that car really going to be available here soon? I want one).
David
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 97 09:55:27 -0000
From: James Espey
Subject: Re: DML: How to remove center a/c control panel?
On 10/3/97 2:29 PM, Geoffroy Birtz shared these fine thoughts...
>How does one remove the center console panel ?(where the temp controls
>are)
Remove all the A/C control knobs, they just pull straight off. Behind one
of them is a small phillips head screw, unscrew it for access to that
area.
James
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 12:15:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: DeLorean
Subject: DML: DMC dealer in Maine?
Hi!
While reading one of the documents on the DMC-News page, an article said
that there was a DMC dealer in every state except for Alaska. Does anyone
know who the dealer(s) was in Maine? And where they were located?
Thanks for your help and time!
Jim Lund
jim@fiero.net
delorean@fiero.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 11:59:58 -0500
From: Jameel Ahed
Subject: Re: DML: Alternator exchange
Dear DML,
My motorola went bad a long time ago and I replaced it with an AC
Delco (Prostart rebuild) 100 amp alternator. The only problem is it
wont charge at idle. I figured it was the pulley diameter. I have
been looking and looking all over the place for a 2.5" diameter pulley.
That is approximately the same size as the pulley on my motorola. I
would think if I put this 2.5" on my Delco it will charge about 150 rpm
lower than it is now. Now it starts charging at 1100 rpm. Since my car
idles at a good 800-900 range it doesn't charge! Please give me any
advice you guys may have.
Sincerely,
Jameel Ahed
- --------------------------------------------------
Jameel Ahed CEO of CyberTECH Industries
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions
HOMEPAGE: http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/
VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed@uiuc.edu
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 97 02:07:10 UT
From: "Mike "
Subject: DML: Frame
Looking for comments on rust proofing the frame. I am planning to
chemically
strip, galvanize and powder coat a spare frame. The cost will be under
$1200.00. The spare frame is in like new condition with no rust or
cracking of
the paint. John Jeakle E-MAIL
JMJEAKLE@msn.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 18:49:02 +0100 (BST)
From: Martin Gutkowski
Subject: Re: DML: my two cents (pence?) on the RHD cars
Hi,
Just for information, there is no legislation regarding the ownership or
registration of LHD cars in the UK, except that the insurance will be
more. Indeed, Corvette is planning to export their new car to the UK in
LHD - something that all the magazines here have been lamenting...
Martin
On Thu, 2 Oct 1997, James Espey wrote:
> On 10/2/97 5:23 PM, Robert Lamrock shared these fine thoughts...
>
> >There are also specialists willing to undertake the complicated work but it
> >can be expensive. I believe Ed Bernstein did it once for a Japanese
> >customer. One owner in Birmingham did it himself - but it took a lot of
> >effort.
> >VIN numbers vary.
>
> First, thanks Robert for the straight-skinny on the RHD cars. I was
> originally looking for one when I bought my car, and did not find one
> that was less than the equivalent of 40,000 USD. Considering the rarity,
> this is not too surprising. The one RHD car I did see at EuroFest this
> past summer in Belfast was #12174 (May 82), a black interior, five speed
> car. Robert, do you know the origin of this car? Incidentally, it shows
> the highest VIN I have ever seen for the '82 models, and also the latest
> build month for 82s.
>
> One of our list members from Japan, Yoshi Hamaie, owns a converted RHD
> car, and at one time Ed B. did work on it, but Ed did not convert it.
> Whether or not Ed has done a conversion for a Japanese customer I do not
> know. Once a car reaches a certain age, it no longer must be converted to
> RHD for importation into Japan, I believe it is ten years. Australia, on
> the other hand, requires RHD no matter what the age is, I believe.
>
> James
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 18:52:01 +0100 (BST)
From: Martin Gutkowski
Subject: Re: DML: Alternator&CAP
Hi,
I'm afraid I'm the originator of this shorthand title for the "Capacitor"
- - I am an electronics student and have picked up this bad habit from my
colleagues.
Martin
On Thu, 2 Oct 1997, Don Gowler-CFPO01 wrote:
> What exactly is the 'CAP'?
>
> >----------
> Steve wrote:
> >Hello:
> >As the saga continues, seems that I've been blowing fuses, left and
> >right, so I checked the cap at the alternator (u know the 3 uF one)
> >and it checked BAD ((open)), Hmmmmmmm, brand new alternator and
> >cap, so back to the Alternator shop, while I was there we did
> >EXTENSIVE tests on the "D" -current draw and all that stuff. Seems
> >all is working well but the CAP ------- = IF YOU have fuses blowing and
> >relays going bad almost on a daily basis CHECK THAT CAP.
> >steve (vin10734)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 17:54:38 -0800
From: "Ken Montgomery"
Subject: DML: The nasty *I* word >> Insurance!
Greetings.
I have found an 83 DMC that's been in storage for a long time that I
MAY buy from its owner. After I last talked to him he went and
started it up -*ARGH*- just to make sure it still runs -- I have
already read that one should first flush out all the old gas,
etc. but he did it anyway.. Anyway.. that's WAY off subject.
I have already had a talk with the bank and they'll loan me the $$
against the car, as long as they get a qualified appraisal plus
they'll need FULL insurance. AAA says they'll insure the car but they
can't say how much it'll cost until I give them the VIN #. I have yet
to see the car, which I will do as soon as I can, and then I'll get
the VIN #, but does anyone have an idea what I'm looking at $$ wise?
AAA is going to know you can't just get the body parts at the local
dealer, so I expect they'll charge me a huge amount for collision,
fire, theft, etc. if I can even get those covered during the druation
of my loan. My other otpion is to take out a personal loan at a
higher % and just get the basic requirements covered so that the
great state of California will allow me to drive it.
Any Ideas?
Ken Montgomery
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1986 01:32:44 -0700
From: "lseiler@radiance.com"
Subject: Re: DML: Weight differences
At 12:52 AM 10/2/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Anyone own a red or black DMC? Just wondering what the difference in
>weight there is between the stainless and the factory painted DMC's. My
>'81 is stainless at 3180lbs.
>Cliff #3773
>
Hay whats this?
I think my DMC is missing something important, or I read your message
wromg. I just weighed my DMC today at a sand and gravel plant. You know
you
want to buy gravel, weigh in, load up, weigh out...pay for the gravel
based
on the difference in weight. I pulled my 81-DMC on the scale and got 2693
(with me out of the car). lets see 3180 less 2696 is 484 pounds!
does any one know what the factory curb weight is ?
I was thinking of cutting lighting holes in the plastic underbody...even
did some computer stress and weight projects. The graohics are cool....
Humm you know I never really gave the possibility of curmb weight
differences any thought...lany comments?
Lee
VIN#5729
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1986 01:40:17 -0700
From: "lseiler@radiance.com"
Subject: Re: DML: Frame
At 02:07 AM 10/4/97 UT, you wrote:
>Looking for comments on rust proofing the frame. I am planning to
>chemically
>strip, galvanize and powder coat a spare frame. The cost will be under
>$1200.00. The spare frame is in like new condition with no rust or
>cracking of
>the paint. John Jeakle E-MAIL
>JMJEAKLE@msn.com
>
HI,
To the best of my knowledge there is no better coating for metal in
vehicles than epoxy. Years ago I worked in a research lab that did NIH
studies on metal coating for metal parts (for the NAVY). There are losts
of
ways, galvanizing, metal platings, rubbers, polymers of all sorts and
paints, but for all round protection against the environment and physical
damage, expoy is the best.
Hope this helps...
Lee
VIN#5729
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 14:56:33 -0700
From: Tom Cores
Subject: DML: door struts
I was wondering how much door struts cost, and how hard are they to
install. Also where can I get them from. Thank you -Chicago,Il
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 97 15:06:50 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody"
Subject: Re: DML: Fuel System Blues
> I know this is getting boring. Still, I have been having the
> famous "DMC won't start hot" problem. I have replaced the fuel
> pump, pickup line, and the accumulator. Absolutely no improvement.
> Does anyone have any ideas of what else can be wrong with my
> Delorean? The usual symptoms. Starts immediately when cold.
> Wont even start to start when still warm. Car never stalls.
> Seems to be worse when tank is very full.
Try looking at the check-valve . Some of the pumps had
plastic ball valves that would decay over time. Volvo
had trouble with this in the early 80's. This will cause fuel to
return back to the fuel tank.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 09:05:11 -0600 (MDT)
From: raddad@cmn.net
Subject: Re:License Plate was DML: Alternator exchange
I'm jealous of you who can have 9 numbers/letters on your vanity plate.
Here in Colorado we are limited to 7. I tried to get DMC-12 but that
wasn't allowed because our regular series has 3 letters followed by
numbers
and the state felt that was too confusing. Thus, I drive "83 DMC".
As an aside to James, wouldn't a directory of DML member vanity plates be
neat?
Dick Ryan
The Rad Dad
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 21:16:16 +0000
From: BRUCE BENSON
Subject: DML: DeLorean Dealer In Maine
The DeLorean dealer in Maine in 1981 was:
Colony Cadillac - Olds
Route 1 at Depot Road
Portland, ME. 04104
(207)781-2100
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 00:11:10 -0600 (MDT)
From: bttfdmc@connect.ab.ca
Subject: DML: Re: Insurance!
Insurance Rates on DMC's. I'm from Canada; what are the insurance rates
going for DMC's down in the US? I'm getting a sweet deal of $300.00 a
year
full coverage from an antique/collectible/exotic car insurance company.
But there's a catch. Can't use my D as an everyday driving vehicle. Only
for car shows, car cruises, etc. But, I like it that way since I don't
drive my baby everyday anyway.
What's the DOA doing with that Insurance plan they had a few years back
with Ferrari and Lotus, wasn't it? That that ever go through?
Best
Randy Atamaniuk
Vin#16353
At 05:54 PM 10/3/97 -0800, you wrote:
> Greetings.
>
> I have found an 83 DMC that's been in storage for a long time that I
>MAY buy from its owner. After I last talked to him he went and
>started it up -*ARGH*- just to make sure it still runs -- I have
>already read that one should first flush out all the old gas,
>etc. but he did it anyway.. Anyway.. that's WAY off subject.
>
> I have already had a talk with the bank and they'll loan me the $$
>against the car, as long as they get a qualified appraisal plus
>they'll need FULL insurance. AAA says they'll insure the car but they
>can't say how much it'll cost until I give them the VIN #. I have yet
>to see the car, which I will do as soon as I can, and then I'll get
>the VIN #, but does anyone have an idea what I'm looking at $$ wise?
>AAA is going to know you can't just get the body parts at the local
>dealer, so I expect they'll charge me a huge amount for collision,
>fire, theft, etc. if I can even get those covered during the druation
>of my loan. My other otpion is to take out a personal loan at a
>higher % and just get the basic requirements covered so that the
>great state of California will allow me to drive it.
> Any Ideas?
>
> Ken Montgomery
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #287
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