Saturday, October 17 1998 Volume 03 : Number 427
In this issue:
DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
DML: NCDMC October Meeting
Re: DML: New discoveries
DML: Re: Trailing arm reinforcement brackets
DML: Delorean For Sale!!
DML: Passenger Door
DML: Birmingham Car Show
DML: wanted: delorean for sale
DML: Re: door struts / air conditioning
DML: Mattlock "The Lemon"
Re: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
DML: DeLorean Meet
Re: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
Re: DML: wanted: delorean for sale
DML: Man-O-Man , them thar spark plugs are in good. / DirectHits
Re: DML: Passenger Door
DML: Re: Passenger Door / Speakers
Re: DML: Re: R-134 air conditioning conversion
DML: Needed: Delorean Luggage rack.
DML: clutch
Re: DML: Re: Passenger Door / Speakers
DML: Spring Question
DML: cargo net?
DML: Steering column creep
Re: DML: Steering column creep
DML: RE: Steering column creep
DML: Re: Man-O-Man , them thar spark plugs are in good.
DML: Re: clutch
DML: Re: Passenger Door
Re: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
DML: Re: Re: door struts / air conditioning
DML: Re: voltage readings vs amperage output
Re: DML: Steering column creep
Re: DML: Steering column creep
DML: Re: Spring Question
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 22:22:16 -0000 From: James Espey <espey(AT)dmcnews.com> Subject: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
On 10/14/98 4:17 AM, David Silek shared these fine thoughts...
>I would put my Vin # here if I could figure out which number it is. Any >help here would be appreciated.
The VIN is found both on the dash and the drivers door jamb about knee level. It's a long series of numbers and letters that begins with SCEDT....
The last five numbers are really all that is pertinent for telling others your VIN. To tell less than that invites confusion - one DML'er consistently ends his posts with #570 - is that an '81 (#00570) an '82 (#10570 - probably not as that is MY car or #11570) or any one of the '83's (#15570, #16570, etc?).
The back issues cover the meaning and interpretation of VIN's far better and in more depth than I need re-post here - check them at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
James Espey #10570
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List http://www.dmcnews.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 02:28:29 EDT From: WtrResQ(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: NCDMC October Meeting
hello all,
just a reminder w/ less than a week to the next club meeting. the NCDMC october meeting will be held at 9am on sunday oct. 18th. we will meet at "Dennys" located in Danville for breakfast.
take hiway 680 to the Sycamore Valley Rd. exit (east). go to the east side of 680 (over the freeway if S/B and to right of freeway if you were N/B) and turn right on Camino Ramon. the "Dennys" will be on the right.
following breakfast, we are confirmed at the Blackhawk Auto Museum at 11am. this sould be great. the prototype "D" is still there and my contact stated that she would try to get extra info about the car, to our guide.
after the museum we will be able to have a nice lunch at a local cafe.
so far the RSPVs , to attend, are as follows: (if incorrect plz email me) 1)lee, and a guest and his "D" 2)sandy and a guest and 1/2 w/ his "D" (sandy's wife is w/ future owner) 3)Ed Reed and a guest w/ his "D" 4)me and my wife w/ my "D" 5)hank and mimi Breer w/ a "D" (So Cal reps) 6)chris mack (a future owner)
if i missed you, or if you are on the "ill let you know list", plz email me to reserve a spot.
looking forward to sunday,
james
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 21:42:59 -0700 From: "lseiler(AT)radiance.com" <lseiler(AT)radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: New discoveries
reply:
I know it's a mater of taste, so I am not going to say much more, but with our moderators admonition not with standing, "Fiero"....Oh Please! I have driven them a time or two. You could not give me the thing...........
Lee
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:36:46 +0000 From: Bob Brandys <oehcs(AT)flash.net> Subject: DML: Re: Trailing arm reinforcement brackets
I while ago I believe that I read that someone is or has made trailing arm reinforcement brackets. Can awayone recall who it was?
bob brandys
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 11:48:58 -0400 (EDT) From: Sean Harder <sharder(AT)kent.edu> Subject: DML: Delorean For Sale!!
To all of you Delorean fans out there, I came across a rare one in Stow, Ohio (30 minutes south of Cleveland). A Chevy dealership has a yellow (yes, banana yellow) 82 with 54k miles. The exact specs are unknown, but I did notice that the price dropped down from 16,500 to 15,500. Its a shame that a dealer has it, but what can you do. I am a poor college student so Im not in the market for one, but anyone wanting info or directions feel free to email me. I hate seeing that car sit there undriven.
-Sean (sharder(AT)kent.edu)
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:04:44 CDT From: "Steve Seikel" <seikel(AT)mail.netsites.net> Subject: DML: Passenger Door
I have a 1981 Delorean I bought in Arkansas, and it seems to run perfectly, but my right hand passenger side door, when I try to unlock it, sometimes it just makes a clunk sound, wont unlock, and the door will not open, after a while of fidgeting, it will finally open. This annoys me. Greatly. The previous owner took out the power door lock's, I don't know if that matters. I'm also having trouble replacing the speakers, front and back... cant seem to get the interior out. But overall the car seems great, runs fine, 5 speed transmission works wonderfully, glad to be a part of it.
Steve Seikel seikel(AT)netsites.net vin# 5126, or something close to that..
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 02:56:51 +0100 From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is(AT)connect-2.co.uk> Subject: DML: Birmingham Car Show
Dear All, and especially those in our neck of the woods,
The Bi-Annual Classic and Sprts Car Show at the Birmingham NEC will be on from November7th to 8th, and Dave Howarth will be there with other club members grinning smugly next to two fine examples of DeLoreanhood. There will be DeLorean merchandise-a-plenty, as well as a preview of the new DeLorean video produced by Rob Lamrock (Back From The Future).
If you're an owner, lover, enthusiast, or you-know-the-rest, please drop by. It's a great show, and not just for our club.
Unfortunately and to my lasting regret, I will not be able to attend (let's just say "girlfriend", "promised" and "double booked" in the same sentence and leave it at that).
This will mean serious updates to my website will have to wait until the Northern Classic Car Show in Manchester in December - I plan on producing a "products" page, and of course, updating all the photos.
Pictures from the previous show are available in large numbers on my website, if anyone hasn't already seen them,
Laters,
Martin http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:51:18 -0400 From: Donald - SA Intern <saintern(AT)peri.com> Subject: DML: wanted: delorean for sale
Hello, I'm looking for a good solid daily driver for around $10k sometime in december..... right now, there is one car i'm looking at for 13k which i think is a little high for it but i have one question, on the right rear tire(looking from the back) there is ALOT of wear in comparision to the other side?...sound familiar? please e-mail me at saintern(AT)peri.com thanks, Donald Kazmark
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:09:21 -0400 From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi(AT)mindspring.com> Subject: DML: Re: door struts / air conditioning
When I purchased my DeLorean (about 6 mo. ago), the refridgerant had already leaked out rendering the system useless. When I brought it to the mechanic, they found that the accumulator was bad (due to the refirg. being gone for so long). Once they got the new accumulator in, they installed a R-134 kit - I am not sure about all that was included in this kit, but it is a standard conversion kit for really any car - and off I went. By the way, the conversion was about $170. The cooling fan is malfunctioning and every once in a while the system stops and dumps a bunch of hot air onto my legs, but while the system is running, it puts out enough cool air to keep me comfortable. This is in the middle of the day in east Tennessee with a humidity of about 400%. If the system worked properly and I could run the fan at setting 4 (I can only get it to run at 2 right now without it cycling on and off), I feel comfortable stating that I might have to turn down the fan speed due to too cold air coming out. I should also note that converting to the134 supposedly will not cool as well as the 12. But, using the 134 is more environmentally friendly and if you are concerned about the system leaking, you should strongly consider converting for this reason. Plus, with the cost of R-12 rising, it may be more beneficial - financially - to convert.
Sean Howley VIN#2345
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:26:12 EDT From: ABatt10347(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: Mattlock "The Lemon"
Fellow DMCer's, You may remember a few months ago I was trying to get a copy of the Mattlock show that had the DMC in it. Well after waiting until the local station reran the entire run (from show 1 till now) it will air in the Nashville market on Friday at noon. I plan on taping it so I'll let you know how it goes. Bruce Battles Vin # 6569
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:50:10 EDT From: CBL302(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
Hi,I am the guy who signs with vin #570,well I do that because my vin # is 000570, number 570,march 1981 build,I just didn't want to bother with adding the zeros,but if that is the correct way of putting down my vin number then I will do that.
Claude vin# 000570
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:08:41 EDT From: Gullwing99(AT)aol.com Subject: DML: DeLorean Meet
Hello fellow D lovers, I got my new Bricklin International club magazine today, the Brickline, and was reading an article on the meet that happened this past summer that Ken did. There is a nice picture with a line of D's with the doors up pose and a couple of the BTTF car that was there ( still sick that I missed this event! ). The article was written by Stuart Zukrow,,he is the one that brought his Bricklin to the meet. Along with the very good article, he wrote," The gentleman who ran the meet really did a wonderful job. I heard it was the first time he had ever run a meet, but it sure didn't show." and also, " Those DeLorean folks were real nice people and they made me feel very welcome. Just thought Ken and everyone that attended would like to hear that. J.B.Vincent vin: 16709 lic: DMC-12
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 22:03:07 -0700 From: SweatyEddy <swetyedy(AT)cwnet.com> Subject: Re: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
If your D is a resurected garage mechanic's nightmare like mine that has four or five different VIN's, the state of California recognizes the drivers side dash VIN to be the official identifyer of my car. I don't know if other states use the same logic or not. -SweatyEddy
James Espey wrote:
> On 10/14/98 4:17 AM, David Silek shared these fine thoughts... > > >I would put my Vin # here if I could figure out which number it is. Any > >help here would be appreciated. > > The VIN is found both on the dash and the drivers door jamb about knee > level. It's a long series of numbers and letters that begins with > SCEDT.... > (SNIP) > The back issues cover the meaning and interpretation of VIN's far better > and in more depth than I need re-post here - check them at: > > http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html > > James Espey > #10570
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 02:39:19 -0400 (EDT) From: Bill Wilson <fluffy(AT)snurgle.org> Subject: Re: DML: wanted: delorean for sale
On Wed, 14 Oct 1998, Donald - SA Intern wrote:
> I'm looking for a good solid daily driver for around $10k sometime in > december.....
Gonna be tough to find this. Most good daily drivers cost at least $13-$15K and usually more if they are in really good physical shape as well as mechanical. Most DeLoreans in the $10K range will have at least one or two of body damage, interior problems, frame rust, engine trouble, haven't been driven, or something. If you want a reliable daily driver right "out of the box" be prepared to spend the money on one. If you don't mind doing a little work on it then you can get one a little cheaper.
> right now, there is one car i'm looking at for 13k which i think is a > little high for it but i have one question, on the right rear > tire(looking from the back) there is ALOT of wear in comparision to the > other side?...sound familiar?
There are a lot of things that can cause uneven wear on tires. It might be a wheel out of balance. You might also check your trailing arm bolts and assembly for failure - though this tends to be more immediately noticeable than just uneven tire wear. Maybe the previous owner just never rotated the tires, or maybe this tire is not purchased at the same time as the other one. Are they the same brand/model of tire? (not that that's conclusive evidence, but if they're different, it is).
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:51:06 -0700 From: "Dave Price" <davep(AT)humanmachine.com> Subject: DML: Man-O-Man , them thar spark plugs are in good. / DirectHits
Well folks, I'm trying (in vain) to replace my spark plugs, and four of them won't budge at all. (well, OK, I haven't tried to loosen the one closest to the driver's seat yet) .. They've been sitting in a pool of WD-40 for a day now, and I've tried taping, wiggling, loosening, tightening, and I'm starting to get worried. I can't just leave those plugs in there forever. Can anyone help? I've been using a standard socket wrench and a variety of driver extentions, a 16MM deep socket, and the equivalent SAE socket.. nothing will make them break free... I really don't want to do damage, and I'm using as much force as I feel comforable with (most of my 135lbs).
I'm pulling the plugs off to try a new ignition product called DirectHits. So far it looks like it will require some modifications to the spark plug wire ends because they add a couple inches to the height of the spark plug, but they sound like they'll work really well. I've put it in my Go-Ped, and it made the engine run much smoother.. They're supposed to increase milage/performance, etc.. Check 'em out at www.directhits.com if you're interested.. I'll post my findings if I can ever get these plugs out!
Thanks in advance!
- - Dave
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 03:45:26 EDT From: WtrResQ(AT)aol.com Subject: Re: DML: Passenger Door
sorry , i cant help you with the doors, but the front speakers can be accessed from under the dash. no need to remove the dash. i also removed the rear speakers. it takes alittle work, but can be done by a novice. i got the info from one of the member's web page. i think his name was phoenix.
you will need to remove some of the weatherstiping from the rear of the door opening. this exposes where the plactic "side panels" are glued to the body. you will end up removing the seatbelts and, i think, 3 screws. be carfull, cuz 2 of them are low. i think one is just under a some carpet.
feel free to email/ call if you have questions. i also changed out my deck. good luck,
james 510)582-7834
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 01:00:25 -0700 From: "Dave Price" <davep(AT)humanmachine.com> Subject: DML: Re: Passenger Door / Speakers
>perfectly, but my right hand passenger side door, when I try to unlock >it, sometimes it just makes a clunk sound, wont unlock, and the door will >not open, after a while of fidgeting, it will finally open. This annoys >me. Greatly.
If you're hearing a scraping sound when the door finally opens, you'll probably need to get a 17mm wrench or a 17mm deep-socket and loosen the door latch bolts, then re-position them. Use the driver's side as a reference for the position. However, the sides may be different depending on how the doors are aligned.
> I'm also having trouble replacing the speakers, >front and back... cant seem to get the interior out.
The front speakers aren't that bad, you just need to get under the dash (rest your head on the floor mat) and use a socket that will fit the nuts securing the speakers, take 'em out, and unplug the wires.. it'll come right out. Putting the front speakers on may require someone else's hand or a prop to hold the speaker in place.
The rear speakers are a pain in the rear (no pun intended), you have to remove the inner door seal, use a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm up the rear trim under the door seal, and peal it from the car. Then you have to remove the little black screw at the top of the rear trim pannel, and wiggle the trim out.. removing the rear shelf wall may assist the removal of the trim, (remove the four cargo net clips and pull the wall out.).
At this point, you just have to loosen the hose clamp that is securing the 4x10" speaker and find an adequate replacement. (if one exists.. that size is just too weird, although I have heard that JBL makes a good 2-way 4x10" for mid-bass, and Pioneer makes a good 3-way 4x10" for mids and treble, but rattles when exposed to too much bass..) It may be better to use a 4x6" plate speaker or a 4" round speaker with a crossover and a subwoofer located somewhere else in the car.. (Has anyone used one of those "Spair Tire" subwoofers?)
I, myself, am planning on cutting a couple holes in the rear wall and installing a pair of 8" free-air subs.. But you could just as easily use 6x9"s instead. I don't know what the possible side-effects will be installing a speaker in the rear wall though (increased engine noise?..)
Take care all!
- -Dave
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 09:05:07 -0500 From: Bill Marcussen <billmarcussen(AT)sprintmail.com> Subject: Re: DML: Re: R-134 air conditioning conversion
Sean Howley wrote:
> ... But, using the 134 is more environmentally friendly and if you are concerned about the > system leaking, you should strongly consider converting for this reason. > Plus, with the cost of R-12 rising, it may be more beneficial - financially - - to convert.
Before Converting to R-134, remember a couple of things:
1. There is no proved environmental unfriendliness associated with R-12, only a theory with some fairly weak links to ozone depletion.
2. The price of R-12 has been pretty stable for the past couple of years -- unlike the rapid price rise that had been projected.
Until the cost of an R-12 recharge exceeds the cost of conversion, staying with R-12 makes sense to me. In particular, you avoid any possibility of cross contamination which shortens component life and adds additional repair cost.
Bill Marcussen
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 09:58:34 -0700 From: Jason Perkins <jperkins(AT)microsoft.com> Subject: DML: Needed: Delorean Luggage rack.
Fellow subscribers,
My "D" and I are planning a trip next month. However we can't do it alone..... a luggage rack is needed! I know I can purchase one from one of the Delorean Dealers, but I thought I would check on the list first (Support the group!!). Therefore if you have one, or know of someone who does, or even recommend a particular dealer to purchase one from, contact me. ** Also on my wish list is the "hard to find" ski rack (I imagine I'll get a Good Luck on this one).
Thanks- Jason Perkins Jperkins(AT)microsoft.com <mailto:Jperkins(AT)microsoft.com> #16665
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 14:13:58 -0400 (EDT) From: brian metz <metz.50(AT)osu.edu> Subject: DML: clutch
Hello! My name is Brian and I have just recently purchased a 1983 DeLorean. I have lots of questions, but I will ask them slowly over time (so as not to bombard the list). First, did I send this correctly? Second, I believe that my car needs a master cylinder for the clutch. If I push the pedal normally or quickly, it acts fine, but if I push it down slowly it will go all the way to the floor (very easily) and not disengage the cluth. I know with brakes, this means the master is bad, so I assume the same is true with the cluth. My question: Does anyone know if this is the same master used in another car? Can I buy a master at a regular parts store that is the same and will bolt right up? (the price for a DeLorean master is over $120.) Thanx, Brian
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 13:37:16 -0700 From: raddad(AT)cmn.net Subject: Re: DML: Re: Passenger Door / Speakers
Re rear speakers, Dave said: >I, myself, am planning on cutting a couple holes in the rear wall >and installing a pair of 8" free-air subs.. But you could just >as easily use 6x9"s instead. I don't know what the possible >side-effects will be installing a speaker in the rear wall though >(increased engine noise?..) - ------------------------------ I had a great system in my first D and it included some Boston Acoustics in the rear panel - don't remember which ones or dimensions now, but I had four speakers with crossovers. They sounded great and did not increase any noise from the engine compartment.
I did find two problems, however. First, I travel in my D alot and that means using the rear shelf for luggage. The luggage covers up the speakers!! So, when you want the sound the most - on a trip - it gets garbled by interfering luggage. The other problem was that the speakers are so obvious that they clearly indicate that you probably also have a pretty good system, tuner, amp, CD player, etc. Then you become more of a target for theives - I did - and they also took the rear panel.
Dick Ryan VIN 16867
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:50:13 -0400 From: "DOUG T VENNER" <DMC12(AT)prodigy.net> Subject: DML: Spring Question
I know this thread comes up a lot but I have a question that I didn't find a answer to in the back issues. Does anyone have a set of front Euro-spings in their car from PJ Grady? If so e-mail me as to not bombard the list with this thread again. How does the car look with them?Ride? How much were they? Thanx Doug Venner NJ #16680 DMC12(AT)prodigy.net
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 20:08:07 -0400 From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1(AT)eclipse.net> Subject: DML: cargo net?
Anyone have a or know where I can get a cargo net for my D? Mine is a = little torn up and I'd like a replacement. Anyone have a reliable = cross-reference number? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! ---Dan = Vin# 5493
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 08:17:02 From: Massimo Troiani <maxt(AT)inetport.com> Subject: DML: Steering column creep
I have searched the back issues and found a couple of references to the steering column creep problem, however there were no posted solutions. So I am asking - does anyone know how to fix this problem?
Also I am able to easily move the steering column up and down by about an inch, is this normal? It is really annoying when I have to make sharp turns and the steering column moves.
Thanks
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:29:48 -0700 From: Hank Breer <hbreer(AT)ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: DML: Steering column creep
Massimo Troiani wrote:
> ... I am able to easily move the steering column up and down by about an > inch, is this normal? It is really annoying when I have to make sharp turns > > and the steering column moves.
There is an adjustment hand-nut adjacent to the steering column just under the dash. TIGHTEN IT. The steering column creep referred to is that even with the adjustment tightened, the steering column tends to move over time in some cars.
Hank
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 22:41:30 -0400 From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1(AT)eclipse.net> Subject: DML: RE: Steering column creep
The reason why your steering column is moving is because the sdjustment = knob is probably loose. Look deeply under the dash at the column and = tighten the knob on the side of the column. I think it's on the right = side and it's up towards the steering wheel. As far as your squeek, try some WD-40 in the rubber bushing in the = "firewall" where your column goes through. Good luck!!! ---Dan Vin# 5493
- ---------- From: Massimo Troiani[SMTP:maxt(AT)inetport.com] Sent: Thursday, October 15, 1998 4:17 AM To: dmcnews-digest(AT)world.std.com Subject: DML: Steering column creep
I have searched the back issues and found a couple of references to the steering column creep problem, however there were no posted solutions. = So=20 I am asking - does anyone know how to fix this problem?
Also I am able to easily move the steering column up and down by about = an inch, is this normal? It is really annoying when I have to make sharp=20 turns and the steering column moves.
Thanks
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 23:59:03 -0400 From: "Joe LoRe'" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Man-O-Man , them thar spark plugs are in good.
Dave, Try this, apply pressure to the socket handle in a snapping motion, this should break the plug free. As a suggestion do not substitute any spark plugs other than the HR 6 or equivalent. The Bosch C.I.S. ignition system is a precision set up with all components tightly matched. I personally consider this one of the finest systems ever designed. Its simple, straight forward, efficient, and extremely reliable. Why mess with such a superior system. BTW be sure to apply anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads when you install your replacements this will make their removal much easier. One more thing, if you install the platinum plugs you won't have to replace them for at least 60k miles. Joe / DeLorean Services
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Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 00:06:29 -0400 From: "Joe LoRe'" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: clutch
Brian, Although your problem could be due to a defective slave cylinder the master is more likely the culprit. There is no crossover, you own a DeLorean, treat it right and purchase the exact replacement. BTW there are several cars on the road that have master cylinders that cost in excess of $200, so consider yourself lucky. Joe / DeLorean Services
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 22:17:43 -0400 From: "Joe LoRe'" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Passenger Door
Steve, Your door lock problem is probably due to one of the bellcrank lock rods being out of adjustment. The front speakers are relatively easy to change, their both accessible from under the dashboard, they are 3 1/2 inch speakers. Forget the rear or actually the side rear speakers. Because of their mounting configuration the will only provide marginal sound quality even when fitted with top of the line speakers. Additionally accessing those speakers requires disassembly of the rear trim panel which is quite involved. For many of our clients we have installed twin 6" speakers in the carpeted panel behind the parcel shelf. If you really like bass purchase one of the many models of hatchback type speakers available from many retail sound suppliers. If you shop around you will find many units that will fit perfectly on the parcel shelf. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 22:29:55 -0400 From: "Joe LoRe'" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: DML: Preferred method of listing VIN's in sigs
Claude, F.Y.I. the first production car out of the factory was VIN 500 this means you actually own the 70th car off the line, congratulations. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 22:21:49 -0400 From: "Joe LoRe'" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: Re: door struts / air conditioning
Sean, Your cycling A/C blower motor is due to a defective blower fan circuit breaker, replace this unit with a 40 amp breaker. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 21:35:19 -0400 From: "Joe LoRe'" <DMCJOE(AT)worldnet.att.net> Subject: DML: Re: voltage readings vs amperage output
Larry, I am not sure what science your mechanic is using but here are the simple facts. The amperage reading is only an indication of how much current is being drawn from the battery. The numbers that you should be concerned about is strictly voltage. Before I quote numbers I need to know what alternator your "D" is fitted with; Ducillier, Mototola, or Delco. Additionally your mechanic may be correct about grounding. If you need more information about grounds let me know. DMC Joe / DeLorean Services
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 21:08:16 -0600 (MDT) From: raddad(AT)cmn.net Subject: Re: DML: Steering column creep
RE steering column movement:
I assume you know about the tightening bolt/screw on the right side of the steering column just under the dash which enables you to raise or lower the column. It sounds as if your knob needs to be tightened - or maybe it is missing.
Dick Ryan VIN 16867
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:43:39 -0700 From: "lseiler(AT)radiance.com" <lseiler(AT)radiance.com> Subject: Re: DML: Steering column creep
At 08:17 AM 10/15/98, you wrote: >I have searched the back issues and found a couple of references to the >steering column creep problem, however there were no posted solutions. So >I >am asking - does anyone know how to fix this problem? > >Also I am able to easily move the steering column up and down by about an >inch, is this normal? It is really annoying when I have to make sharp >turns >and the steering column moves. > >Thanks > reply: No
Check the steering column grommet first, if it is worn or missing you will get the loose up and down, also check the steering column adjusting wing nut. This nut allows you to position the steering column up or down and holds the up or down adjustment you make.
Lee
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Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 11:32:15 -0400 From: "R. Starling" <doctor280(AT)email.msn.com> Subject: DML: Re: Spring Question
Ken Montgomery's Delorean Pages has a nice article that he wrote describing the install of PJ Grady's springs on his car. Though he does not have any after pictures of his car yet, I am sure that he will be sharing them with us soon. You can find his web sight at www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm
- -----Original Message----- From: DOUG T VENNER <DMC12(AT)prodigy.net> To: dmcnews(AT)world.std.com <dmcnews(AT)world.std.com> Date: Thursday, October 15, 1998 10:01 PM Subject: DML: Spring Question
>I know this thread comes up a lot but I have a question that I didn't >find a >answer to in the back issues. Does anyone have a set of front Euro-spings >in >their car from PJ Grady? If so e-mail me as to not bombard the list with >this thread again. How does the car look with them?Ride? How much were >they? >Thanx >Doug Venner NJ >#16680 >DMC12(AT)prodigy.net >
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End of dmcnews-digest V3 #427 *****************************
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