Daniel,
Sounds like you may need new injectors all the way around. When I bought my 
car the rubber boot that covers the fuel pump was missing. Water had enetered 
the tank everytine it rained. I replaced the fuel distriuitor, all the 
injectors and the fuel line fittings on the fuel distributor. Be sure and 
check the latter because they have banjo fittings that can hold rust. If this 
gets back into your system your are out a second set of injectors. Hope this 
helps. Sorry to hear of your problems. By the way there was a home made 
sheild that mounted on the frame in front of the gas tank to help flow the 
water away from the fuel pump. Check the back issues of Delorean World to get 
an idea of how it works. If  you dont have access to DW, email me and I'll 
get you the info.
Bruce Battles
Vin #6569


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________________________________________________________________________

In a message dated 4/14/00 3:24:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

<< Hey guys:
 
 I am going to replace all of the hoses and coolant and temp sensor very soon 
 (because they are all original).  What I am wondering is about the hoses 
 that are "under the manifold".  I guess you have to remove the manifold?  
 Question: what is the cost for these hoses (four?) and the gasket for the 
 manifold?  Is there anything else I will need other than the gasket and 
 hoses and clamps?  How long should this project take? Also, do you seal the 
 gasket with a sealer?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Brian
 16584 >>

Brian,
The intake to engine block seal is provided by O-rings, not a gasket.  I've 
replaced mine once and my mechanic did it the second time.  It's a lot of 
work.  Take your time and label all the hoses before you remove them.  My 
mechanic double clamped the under-the-intake hoses.  That was about eight 
years ago, so I guess that helped.  I'm sure any of the suppliers can provide 
the parts.  I got mine from Don Steiger.  I believe one of the suppliers has 
teflon or silicone hoses, which are suppose to be more durable.  You'll need 
the shop manual for the torque values.

Burke 


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________________________________________________________________________

In a message dated 4/14/00 3:26:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

<< >This job is best left to a professional with the right tools.
 >
 >A mistake is easy to make (especially without the right tools), and the
 >mistake could cost you your rear window, a torsion bar, or a hand!
 
 A HAND?!?
 Is this true? Can you actually risk loosing your hand?
 I know there's lot of stored power in those torsion bars, but still...
 True or false?
 
 Best wishes
 Stian Birkeland
 NORWAY >>

Stian,

I have replaced one of my torsion bars without incident.  But I would agree, 
after reading some of the questions on this list, many of the posters should 
not try this procedure.

I'm not sure how much torque is stored in the bars, but just imagine how much 
twisting force (torque) you would have to apply (lets say to a screw, with a 
screw driver) at the very leverage disadvantaged position at the door edge, 
to lift the door and hold it in position.  I don't beleive it would be 
humanly possible.  There's a reason the bars are adjusted with a five foot 
breaker bar!

Burke


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________________________________________________________________________

I'm sure it's possible, I've heard of people almost losing a finger before, 
so I don't think a hand is too far of a stretch.

Scott


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At 12:30 PM 4/14/00 EDT, you wrote:
>  I wondered this myself at first, but I believe that the reason for this is 
>the electronic instrumentation.  I suppose when the car shuts off, the 
>needle holds at whatever position it was at last.  I can't tell which cars 
>are running in the pictures and which aren't!
>
>Kevin


reply"


Kevin - Just listen for the engine sounds, if you can hear it then it's
running, if not
well the engine is not running.


Lee


CAUTION :   Any individual or group discharging a nuclear device or weapon 
inside Los Angeles city limits may be fined $500 - and/or serve 30 days in
county jail.

It's the LAW!


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

At 10:16 PM 4/13/00 -0500, you wrote:
>I have not received mine but Lee has responded to me each time I contacted
>him.
>Bob Mims
>Tyler, Texas
>
reply:


Thanks Bob - !



	I would just like to reassure the remaining edition owners that I have not
forgotten you,
All the edition kits are now completed in that all the resin parts and
various bits are made and in the actual kit boxes. What remains to be done
is print the manuals ( in full 24bit color) and the kit box art. The
manuals and box art are personalized for each edition owner which means
they need to be printed one at a time.

	Currently I have a lot on my plate as they say and can only work on
finishing up the edition sporadically. I made the decision a while ago that
I would not compromise the kit quality rather than just jam them together
and get them out of the way. I go through each kit as I doe the art work
and inspect, trim and pre fit many of the parts to ensure that the kit will
assemble as intended.
As time passes the kits just keep getting better and better.

	As far as e-mail goes I answer it when I can, which may mean that some
time may pass between the time I get an e-mail and when it gets answered.
Making my e-mail responce time a public issue on the DML won't get an
edition shipped before it's place in line.

	I have always been totally open about the edition as I considered it a
joint DML project.
Now that it is only a matter of packaging and shipping I am asking the
moderators to forward any edition post to the DML to  me directly.

Thanks again Bob!

Lee


CAUTION :   Any individual or group discharging a nuclear device or weapon 
inside Los Angeles city limits may be fined $500 - and/or serve 30 days in
county jail.

It's the LAW!


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

The DeLorean tachometer is wired to stop at the last tach pulse prior to
engine shut off. Therefore if you rev the engine to 2k RPM and turn the key
off the tach needle will remain at 2k until the engine is restarted. In most
cases the engine is turned off at idle this will leave the needle at 750
rpm.

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Heywood, Nick <nheywood_at_dml_acxiom.com.au>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2000 12:12 AM
Subject: [DML] Tachometer Needle


> Dear List
>
> I have a question, which is making me very curious. Why is it that on a
lot
> of DeLorean photos I have seen of the dashboard, the tacho needle is a
bit,
> er, vertical....? I'm sure it's not a idling problem, but it is bugging me
a
> bit! Anyone care to explain?
>
> Thanks
>
> Nick




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________________________________________________________________________

For those who were interested in my custom speaker box in the rear shelf of my D, I have uploaded them into the Vault in the speaker box directory.

Jack Stiefel
DMC Vin: 3461
New York Lic: 1981 DMC
Visit our DeLorean site at www.geocities.com/rodeodrive/8601/delorean.html



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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________________________________________________________________________

This is certainly not the case for my car.  Every time I turn the car off, the
needle moves at least 180 degrees and lands in a completely random position!

---
Jess



Kevin Rawlings wrote:

>   I wondered this myself at first, but I believe that the reason for this is
> the electronic instrumentation.  I suppose when the car shuts off, the
> needle holds at whatever position it was at last.  I can't tell which cars
> are running in the pictures and which aren't!
>
> Kevin
> DRIVE STAINLESS
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

I was leafing through a catalog from Hosfelt Electronics (a surplus 
electronics place) and noticed a wiring harness whose 9-pin 
connectors looked suspiciously like those used for the power and 
speaker connections to the DeLorean's radio.

I ordered one to see and sure enough it is an exact match. You get 
both a male and a female connector wired together with about 12 
inches of 18 AWG wire. All for the princely sum of $2.19.

I was very pleased to find this since I am intending to add an 
amplifier to the radio (one with speaker-level inputs) and this will 
permit me to do so without having to splice into all those speaker 
wires.

The part number is 52-119 ('Multi-Pin Harness, .11" terminals') and 
appears on page 81 of catalog 2000-A.  Hosfelt can be reached at 
(888)264-6464.

While you are at it, check out the 12 volt black light on page 3 for 
$4.95!  Just right for you instrument-panel hackers.

-Pete Lucas
  VIN #6703


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________________________________________________________________________

I know they rest a little high.  But I have seen many DeLoreans with them 
stuck to high.  myne for example is stuck way up at 5500RPM and it will not 
move.  Its been like that since I've owned it.  Is there anyway to fix the 
tachs?  I dont want to buy a new one right now.  My car needs other things 
right now such as fenders and windows first:(

please let me know.

Thanks
dave
#2496


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________________________________________________________________________

Nick and others,
The tach always parks between 2 and 3. It's not the electronics but just the
way the needle is balanced. It doesn't matter where the needle is when you
turn the key off, it always parks there. If you're looking at a picture and
you can't tell if the car is running or not, just look at the volts. When
you turn the key off, it always goes down to 0.
The tach goes down to 0 just as you turn the key on, and goes up between 2
and 3 when you turn it off.
Hope this helps
Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Rawlings" <blast59_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Tachometer Needle


>   I wondered this myself at first, but I believe that the reason for this
is
> the electronic instrumentation.  I suppose when the car shuts off, the
> needle holds at whatever position it was at last.  I can't tell which cars
> are running in the pictures and which aren't!
 >I have a question, which is making me very curious. Why is it that on a
lot
> >of DeLorean photos I have seen of the dashboard, the tacho needle is a
bit,
> >er, vertical....? I'm sure it's not a idling problem, but it is bugging
me
> >a
> >bit! Anyone care to explain?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

When Erik G and I did his car last month we replaced all the hoses in just
the engine compartment (and water pump too) and it took about two days.  It
only took this long because we wanted to go very slowly and document
everything as we went along.

The hoses were pretty cheap.  He picked them up from Grady's.  I will say
this though, the large replacement radiator hose on the left coming off the
water pump (going to the front of the car) that we received from Grady's did
NOT even come close to fitting without a severe "kink" in one of the elbows.
We thought we had it on wrong but after a couple of hours fighting with it
it was clear, the replacement wasn't even shaped like the original.  No, we
didn't have them on the wrong side of the car.  We cut it, we twisted it, we
bent it.  It just did not fit.  It's on now but "rubs" the inside of the
engine compartment at the back.  We couldn't clear the belts without doing
this.

Chris C
GIGAWAT
3876

-----Original Message-----
From: Lynn Metz <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Date: Friday, April 14, 2000 3:23 PM
Subject: [DML] coolant lines


>Hey guys:
>
>I am going to replace all of the hoses and coolant and temp sensor very
soon
>(because they are all original).  What I am wondering is about the hoses
>that are "under the manifold".  I guess you have to remove the manifold?
>Question: what is the cost for these hoses (four?) and the gasket for the
>manifold?  Is there anything else I will need other than the gasket and
>hoses and clamps?  How long should this project take? Also, do you seal the
>gasket with a sealer?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Brian
>16584
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

> > I can't tell which cars are running in the pictures
> > and which aren't!
> >
> > Kevin

> reply
> 
> Kevin - Just listen for the engine sounds, if you can hear 
> it then it's running, if not well the engine is not running.
> 
> Lee


Well Lee, that's a great idea....photos with sound. 
Lessee 'ere, how we gonna do this?

Ed (#6419 since 1982)


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________________________________________________________________________

Sorry, I have to go to the list for this.  I met someone on here that had a 
parts car that was going to sell me the rear window out of of it.  My 
HardDrive was fried(twice) and I lost your email address.  if you can please 
email me that would be great.  Sorry I forgot your name.  I know this person 
had a rear fascia that was NEW, still in the box.

    By the way.  I found a cross reference to DeLorean windshield but it is 
almost $200 more than DMC Houston or other stores.  I have this remake 
windshield on my car but it is smashed.  It fits ok but overhangs and covers 
the grill below the windshield.  looks like the DeLorean suppliers have the 
better deal!  I just wanted to let everyone know.
David,
#2496


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________________________________________________________________________

From: "Lynn Metz" <
> Hey guys:
>
> I am going to replace all of the hoses and coolant and temp sensor very
soon
> (because they are all original).  Is there anything else I will need other
than the gasket and
> hoses and clamps?  How long should this project take? >
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
> 16584

Brian,

This will be the perfect time to install a new distributor cap, rotor
button, vacuum hoses, plugs and plug wires.
The project is not that hard, but is time consuming. Plan on taking at least
a day and make sure that you label all the hoses and lines that you remove.

Robert Starling
Vin# 5252




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________________________________________________________________________

It is hard to tell from the picture, but if the tweeter protrudes beyond
the frame (as many of those speakers do) then it will not fit without
some modification.  

If the tweeter does protrude, you will need to use some spacers, and
extend the studs in the dashboard to make them fit.  In addition, you
will want to make something to seal the front of the speaker to the
dashboard, because with the spacers you ad there will not be a air seal
causing a degradation in sound quality.

I found the Infinity speakers already have a spacer ring around the
frame to make it so the speaker can mount flat, but even with this I had
to go to the hardware store and put together a method of securing the
speakers because the studs in the dashboard were too short.

As far as the rear speakers go, I dont plan on using them at all..

njp548_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
<SNIP REAR SPEAKER INFO>
>  And I found speakers that I like for the front at URL:
> 
> http://www.sound-creations.com/Speakers/AS31.htm?cart=30385015892339
> 
>   I was just wondering if you think these speakers are good for my car and if
> they will fit in the Delorean  or maybe you might tell me a better speaker
> for the DeLorean.  Thanks!


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________________________________________________________________________

Hello,
    I finally got my door handles adjusted but now I need to align the doors 
so they hit the striker pins acurately.  They close and shut now but 
sometimes the front latch catches because the striker pink isnt long enoug 
and its gets caught up on the latch.  I am reading the tech manual and it 
talks about adding and removing shims.

    The latch seems to be coming down in the right spot but it hits the end 
of the pin.  I think If I moved the rear of the door up it may fix this.  The 
bolts are in the lowest position and I think they should be up somewhat.  
does anyone know how far?  the ss panel is so close to the roof I can not put 
the T-panel back on until I get this fixed.

The passenger side door seems to be open a few inches high than the drivers 
side. I layed a 2x4 across the doors and it is very noticeable.  I think if I 
loosend the 4 bolts and slid the door up a little it may fix the problem.  Do 
you have to removed the gas strut when doing this?  I just tried it with it 
on and I couldnt move it very far.  I wish I would ave done this before I put 
the torsion bat back in but oh well.  If that doesnt work where can I buy the 
hinge shims?  If any of you have done this procedure please let me know how 
it went.

Thank you
David
#2496


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