Angle Drive Removal for Dummies

Created: 8/16/03

Last updated: 

Author/source: Les Huckins

Angle Drive Removal

The angle drive is fastened to the left front hub by a 1 1/4" nut on the
inside.  It can be very tight, (mine was, due to rusty threads).  There
is very little room to get a decent "bite" on the nut, I found that by
removing the cotter pin and nut just below the AD (lower ball joint nut)
there was just enough room for that "bite."

We'll assume the wheel is off and the steering is all the way to the
left to give you the best access to the nut.  We'll also assume that you
have made the necessary tests to determine that it's the AD that's at
fault (i.e. you've turned the cable projecting out of the hub and not
much is happening at the output to the counter cable).

The only decent shot at the nut is from the front, use an open end 1
1/4" wrench, make sure that it is snugged up on the nut and prepare to
lever it.  My first try was with a hydraulic (bottle jack) jack.  Every
thing moved except the nut, stretched the jaws on the wrench.  Wrench
purchased from AutoZone, made by Great Neck, China.  Returned it for
another brand (Duratest, also made in China) positioned it the same way
but this time used a 5' section of aluminum flag pole as a
lever...popped loose first try, wrench stayed intact.

Now, to get the AD off the wheels must be straightened to give you
enough room to unscrew it, but wait, you still can't get it off when
unscrewed, the coil spring is in the way.  What I did here was go back
to the bottle jack, jacked the offending part of the coil out of the way
and the AD was in my hands.

When you send the AD in for repair it is recommended that you send it in
as-is so as not to break the nut (assuming here that you're not going to
try your own repair).

Dave: spin it, change it, append it, but get it into the tech section, I
think it's long overdue.


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